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these are pretty rad http://www.mercsminis.com/Store.php
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 21:43 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:07 |
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Those would slide into Infinity real nice.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 23:58 |
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e: a bunch of wrong poo poo that I thought about those models
PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:30 |
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I have been slowly chipping my way into a unit of brettonian knights, my plan for the army is to make it actually look rag tag and questy, rather than pristine and shiney. To that end I have been combining the knights with men at arms, plus I love the men at arms shield and heads...my results? well I only have one photo at the moment but I will add more later! The entire unit will be blue with the gold cross, sort of their family/brotherhood/"knight tutor group" symbol tying them all together but each has its own heraldry, this guy has a bad rear end hammer cos he's a bad rear end. Yes I am hand painting my heraldry and yes I want to kill myself already...and sorry for mold lines I'm just a bad person I guess. I have almost finished 2 others, and needless to say I am the slowest painter in the universe, one day = one knight...just. Now I have a digital camera, expect more photos EDIT - Also I don't really like the damsel models, so I have been toying with the idea of using friars/priests...the musicians from the men at arms kit would be its base, is this a dumb idea?...anyway expect photos. Also I have no light box so I just did the best I could! Morham fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:57 |
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Z the IVth posted:If the model has enough sharp edges and is sufficiently heavy, then anything but the gentlest of touches will cause the paint to wear down regardless of sealing. This is especially bad with the larger Privateer Press Miniatures. Alternatively poor washing pre-primer can cause the paint to rub off over time as well. Oh, okay. I thought the reason for the sealing was to protect the paint job. It doesn't sound like it does a very good job.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 02:24 |
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Oh, okay. I thought the reason for the sealing was to protect the paint job. It doesn't sound like it does a very good job. It does protect the paint job, but it's more like protecting it from just normal gameplay. If you drop models or rub protrusions (heh) then the paint is going to come off no matter what. [edit] I came across an explanation of the "two brush" painting method. I'll just edit the format a bit, because otherwise it's a massive wall of text. It's by Matt DiPietro; he's a painter (apparently the only painter) on Privateer Press's staff. Matt DiPietro posted:Hey guys, thought I'd poke my head in here with some advice. There are a two common misconceptions that will cause people problems the first has to do with paint consistency. When two-brushing I use paint only slightly thinned with water to break the surface tension and no medium is used 95% of the time. We think that since paint that is highly diluted has a lot of water in it that it will dry more slowly which is why we tend to add lots of water when first trying to two-brush but in fact the very wet paint will dry almost instantly around the edge when applied while drying slowly in the middle (this has to do with surface tension) causing the frustrating bathtub rings that tend to stump two-brush neophytes. That last part about using the two brush method to paint hard to reach areas on assembled models sounds pretty cool. Has anyone tried doing that? Aranan fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 02:29 |
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PaintVagrant posted:these are pretty rad EDIT: I forgot I had some Paypal left over from an old deal! THESE BAD BOYS ARE ON THE WAY Feeple fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 04:14 |
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so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval Eldest, Trueclaw, Last of the company of Russ Bjorn the fel-handed!
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 04:59 |
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Captain Scurvy posted:so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval I like it so far but I'd lose one of the wolf pelts on the front. I can dig the whole wolf motif but a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 05:35 |
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crime fighting hog posted:...a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though. I agree. A little bit goes a long way. Less is more, and whatnot. But, I've always been attracted to minimalism as a design style and an artistic expression.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 05:46 |
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crime fighting hog posted:I like it so far but I'd lose one of the wolf pelts on the front. I can dig the whole wolf motif but a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though. Thirding this. I think if you got rid of one of the pairs of wolf tails or whatever you'd be good. I'd suggest removing the pair on the chassis over the pair on the banner. I'm not crazy about the claws on the powerfist but I get why you did it.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 06:23 |
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Anyone have some decent images of Red Corsair Chaos Space Marines? I want to use that color scheme in painting my CSM but the images in the Codex aren't as good as I'd like.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 07:24 |
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Iron Squid posted:Anyone have some decent images of Red Corsair Chaos Space Marines? I want to use that color scheme in painting my CSM but the images in the Codex aren't as good as I'd like. I messed around with them before, so here are some links http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227346 http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=129690&pid=1494244&mode=threaded&start=#entry1494244 http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=165114.0 (this one is the best by far. One of his previous threads had some really nice stuff, but you now have to register to see it and I can be bothered)
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 08:02 |
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Morning posted:I messed around with them before, so here are some links Awesome! Thank for those. Oh, should I thin out my gold paint, too? Iron Squid fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 08:38 |
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Iron Squid posted:Awesome! Thank for those. Always thin your paints Except maybe the very lightest shade of gold, that one came at about the right consistency twice now, so it may be the paint itself.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 10:04 |
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Can someone repost the vid of the guy using an airbrushed metal paint with polishing powder to give a nice shiny metallic effect. I'm trying to find the stuff and I jsut can't find where it was mentioned.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 15:06 |
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Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:12 |
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They're not anything special.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:14 |
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CyberLord XP posted:Can someone repost the vid of the guy using an airbrushed metal paint with polishing powder to give a nice shiny metallic effect. I'm trying to find the stuff and I jsut can't find where it was mentioned. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXTqlEsvXRA I can't help but think I'd make such a terrible, terrible mess if I ever tried this.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:34 |
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Vondizimo posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXTqlEsvXRA Thanks a bunch!
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:48 |
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Captain Scurvy posted:so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval I think it looks pretty close to the old bjorn model, but Id redo the claws...maybe get some plasticard and just build the long lightning claws. Otherwise it seems pretty dead on
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:50 |
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stabbington posted:They're not anything special. ALSO: Extra 5% off today at the Warstore, just in case you missed the Black Friday sale. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:53 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Theyre too big, they are almost 40mm from what I understand. They might remind you of infinity for another reason, they are painted by the same guy who paints all of infinity's studio models Nuh uh … I'm thinking they'd make a pretty good Van Saar gang.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:02 |
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Combaticus posted:Nuh uh … I'm thinking they'd make a pretty good Van Saar gang. Wow I couldnt have been more wrong, I swore I read somewhere that they were huge
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:05 |
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Does anyone have and good tips or tutorials for removing flash and mold lines without losing detail? I use an xacto knife and small hobby file, however I received a bunch of (pewter) minis for Christmas, and I'm having difficulty getting rid of all the mold lines without losing fine detail. Thank you.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:26 |
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Other than some extra plating for some stuff, and a little robot arm for an ork, this is my first real go at plasticard, I figured making a trukk would be the best way to hide my gently caress ups. Things I've learned, plasticard rods, can be a bitch to cut, next time use some sort of guide for the build and I need more glue.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:14 |
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PV or anyone else for that matter - any tips on painting Blood Angels red? I was looking at a base of Blood Red, followed by a Flesh Wash, but I'm concerned I'm going to need a million coats of BR to cover white primer. I know I could do a Foundation red base, but I really want to do as few steps as possible. Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 31, 2009 |
# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:46 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:PV or anyone else for that matter - any tips on painting Blood Angels red? I was looking at a base of Blood Red, followed by a Flesh Wash, but I'm concerned I'm going to need a million coats of BR to cover white primer. I know I could do a Foundation red base, but I really want to do as few steps as possible. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=1&aId=400007a&start=2 I used that for painting my genestealers and they came out pretty much identical to the guide so i'm gonna go ahead and assume it's good for the BA's too.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:57 |
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One coat of Red Gore over white primer followed by a coat of Blood Red works wonders for me.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:03 |
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I do a couple of thinned coats of blood red over white primer, then I shade it with thinned brown ink (old GW) in the recesses only, not a wash. Then highlight with a touch of yellow and white mixed into the red. Like dis:
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:03 |
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My Warstore order finally arrived after being lost in the mail since Thanksgiving, bringing me a Hive Tyrant and Lictor kit. I've never worked with metal before, so I thought I'd inquire here before I get to work: is there anything I should know about modeling / painting metal as opposed to plastic?
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:29 |
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Kestral posted:My Warstore order finally arrived after being lost in the mail since Thanksgiving, bringing me a Hive Tyrant and Lictor kit. I've never worked with metal before, so I thought I'd inquire here before I get to work: is there anything I should know about modeling / painting metal as opposed to plastic? I don't know those two models specifically, but you might need to do some pinning. I posted something about pinning a few pages back on this thread. [edit] Aranan posted:http://archive.brushthralls.com/modelling/pinning.html
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:40 |
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White primer can go to hell.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 04:59 |
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Fyrbrand posted:White primer can go to hell. Thinking about going grey myself, because I always seem to have the wrong color.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:07 |
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Just be mindful of how grey the primer is, and what you've primed already. Some brands are fairly similar to the plastic colour, so it can be tricky to tell how well you've covered.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:15 |
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Grey primer (gesso) + 2 coats of Blood Red was usually good enough for me.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:54 |
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Fyrbrand posted:White primer can go to hell. did you ever get that worked out? did you shake then stir?
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 08:27 |
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Took a couple more photos, I'm a pretty bad photographer but I guess practice makes perfect so I'm sure I'll get better. This is the same knight from before but I took the other side and a close up of the face. I've noticed some little splodges of paint that shouldn't be there since I took these, and also the fact that my models are covered in dust. But enough excuses, I'm pretty happy with this guy IRL, but my painting has definately improved since I did him. Its pretty sunny today so I could probably take some more pictures later...anyway thoughts?
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 14:46 |
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PaintVagrant posted:did you ever get that worked out? did you shake then stir? I did shake30/stir30 for about 3 minutes, waited until it was a little cooler, and sprayed lighter coats from a little farther. Still totally skunked. I guess I got a bad can. It's not old though- the lgs just started stocking the stuff.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 15:58 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:07 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers. I like the P3 brushes better than the similar priced brushes I can get at an art store. I hate the Army Painter brushes for the most part. I think they make a good tank brush, but I don't paint tanks so I'm not positive. I picked up some W&N Series 7 miniature brushes a while back, planning to use them when my cheaper brushes wore out but I've gotten used to using bigger brush for everything. It's really just the point of the brush that matters. berzerkmonkey posted:Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints. I haven't worked with it but I've seen it in use. All of the Army Painter sprays match a GW color pretty much exactly. They seem to match about as well as any two pots of GW match each other. I think the Red is either Blood Red or a step darker. I'm not remembering my GW reds right now. I know the Greenskin Green matches GW Snot Green. If you want me to double check what color the Red matches, I can.
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# ? Jan 1, 2010 16:30 |