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Dyna Soar posted:Has anyone tried the Orange Bass Terror? I could maybe afford one and I really need to replace my lovely Ashdown amp asap. I read some good stuff about the Bass Terror on talkbass.com, looks like its a killer. The small size is kind of a bummer though, easy to carry I guess but I like my gear to be as big as possible I got one last week and it is loving awesome. The tube pre is wonderful, and it has more power than I'd ever need. You can get lovely tube overdrive from tweaking the gain control. Gain control on full really breaks up the bass in the most lovely way. With my old amp I was running the VT Bass always-on, but I've just been running straight into the Bass Terror lately and it is wonderful. I don't really know what to do with the VT Bass; maybe just use it for colour and alternative eq boosting as necessary. Anyway, I would wholeheartedly reccoment the Bass Terror, especially as a replacement for a solid-state amp like my situation. (Not that my Peavey Mk III didn't serve me well for the last decade).
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# ? Dec 26, 2009 17:51 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 19:20 |
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FoppSomms posted:I got one last week and it is loving awesome. The tube pre is wonderful, and it has more power than I'd ever need. You can get lovely tube overdrive from tweaking the gain control. Gain control on full really breaks up the bass in the most lovely way. Any chance you can get some clips up? What kind of music do you usually play? Any good clean tones out of it?
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# ? Dec 26, 2009 18:08 |
Has anyone played on a Peavey T-40? I found a '79 in great condition. it's the original natural finish. Just wondering if it's worth jumping on for less than $400, or if I should hold out for a newer USA / Jap P-Bass. Thanks everybody
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# ? Dec 27, 2009 01:19 |
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A MIRACLE posted:Has anyone played on a Peavey T-40? I found a '79 in great condition. it's the original natural finish. Just wondering if it's worth jumping on for less than $400, or if I should hold out for a newer USA / Jap P-Bass. Thanks everybody Edit: Did a little more research with regards to the price. $400 would be for a mint condition T-40, like the buyer literally took it home and shrink-wrapped it in the hard case and stuck it in their closet for 30 years. Someone who's actually played one will probably be a more reliable source of info; I'm just piecing together what I've read. scuz fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Dec 27, 2009 |
# ? Dec 27, 2009 02:13 |
Thanks for the info Scuz. I want a serious upgrade to a real player's bass so I think I'll save for a few weeks and look for an 80's Jap P Bass, which is what I really want anyway.
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# ? Dec 27, 2009 02:36 |
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Scarf posted:Any chance you can get some clips up? What kind of music do you usually play? Any good clean tones out of it? I'll try and get a recording during the week, once I get my mic back. I play rock music, mostly, with my fingers using a G&L Tribute L-2000 in passive and a Squier Classic Vibe 60's Jazz. With gain at 9:00 it gives quite a nice warm clean sound. The tonal character is just very immediately pleasing.
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# ? Dec 27, 2009 04:56 |
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A MIRACLE posted:Thanks for the info Scuz. I want a serious upgrade to a real player's bass so I think I'll save for a few weeks and look for an 80's Jap P Bass, which is what I really want anyway. T-40s are great basses... US Made at a fraction of the cost. They're incredibly versatile too, and one of the few basses that can cop a Rickenbacker sound. I wouldn't get one as my primary gigging bass though, wait to buy it as a backup. They are VERY heavy.
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# ? Dec 27, 2009 08:52 |
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I'm pretty sure some T40's were made with oak bodies. They're fantastic sounding boat anchors.
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# ? Dec 27, 2009 18:41 |
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Does anyone have anything good to say about Vox Amplugs? Bass is more of a hobby nowadays and it doesn't warrant taking my amp stack to college :/
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# ? Dec 28, 2009 04:04 |
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Big Face posted:Does anyone have anything good to say about Vox Amplugs? Bass is more of a hobby nowadays and it doesn't warrant taking my amp stack to college :/ Haven't used one, but personally for dorm and portability, I'd opt for the Tascam Bass Trainer. Find one lightly used and it should suit your needs very well.
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# ? Dec 28, 2009 08:11 |
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Well, I've been lookin' around at the pawn shops in my spare time around here, and although they have plenty of musical instruments there haven't been as many basses as I'd thought. Surprising number of accordions, though. I saw one or two interesting things, although none of them seemed particularly cheap except for this one Squier P-Bass that was only $$80, but it needed a lot of visible touch-up (it still had strips of tape on it indicating which frets were which notes, and the gunk from where the tape was no longer). But then I came across a regular music store (a Clawson's), and hovered toward a new Ibanez G10 that was on sale for about $$200. It felt nice to hold (surprisingly light), looked good (it just screamed Silver Sharpie at me), and from what I could tell sounded good too (although we were actually running late for an engagement so I didn't get to play with it as much as I wanted). Is this a decent deal on a durable beginner bass? It was the last one they had in stock, but we're only in town for another day anyway, so although I might check another store or two tomorrow it's likely that I'll be returning for that one (after trying it out a bit more, of course). Anything special I should know about this model/company (besides how to pronounce it; I still haven't come to a conclusion there), or does that sound like a good purchase?
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 01:07 |
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I've been trying to figure out how to get a warm, slightly overdriven sound, yet still maintain the smooooth low end that I like so much. I've tried a few distortion pedals, but they are just too much, or simply not the right sound. I run a solid state head right now, and it clips (of course) if the gain's too high. Should I upgrade to a tube amp, and crank the gain like a guitarist? Is that how it's normally done? The tone I'm looking for is similar to Eugene Goreshter's (Autolux), or maybe a deeper Peter Hook.
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 01:15 |
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vas0line posted:I've been trying to figure out how to get a warm, slightly overdriven sound, yet still maintain the smooooth low end that I like so much. I've tried a few distortion pedals, but they are just too much, or simply not the right sound. That's one solution. Or you could drop $150 and buy a Tech 21 VT Bass pedal.
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 01:53 |
So what's a good price for a lightly used American P? $650?
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 01:58 |
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A MIRACLE posted:So what's a good price for a lightly used American P? $650? That's pretty fair. Definitely try and play it first. Know what year?
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 02:01 |
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Hammer Bro. posted:But then I came across a regular music store (a Clawson's), and hovered toward a new Ibanez G10 that was on sale for about $$200. It felt nice to hold (surprisingly light), looked good (it just screamed Silver Sharpie at me), and from what I could tell sounded good too (although we were actually running late for an engagement so I didn't get to play with it as much as I wanted). Basically if you like the way it plays/sounds it'll be fine. You're not likely to do much better than Ibanez for current production entry level instruments. I don't find these instruments super appealing personally, but there's not much really wrong with them. Most Ibanez basses (except the BTB series, maybe some others) have very thin necks, which some love and some hate (they're not my favorite, but it's not a big deal to me). Also I think the pickups are only OK, and that active electronics aren't very worthwhile at the entry level. They are nice and light with comfortably carved bodies though. I also happen to be spoiled by there being tons of awesome music stores in my area (SF bay area) with significant stocks of used instruments. Basically if you like it it'll be fine.
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 03:40 |
Scarf posted:That's pretty fair. Definitely try and play it first. Know what year? 2000, no "s-switch" or whatever. Here's a CL: http://nashville.craigslist.org/msg/1523720341.html
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 04:34 |
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vas0line posted:I've been trying to figure out how to get a warm, slightly overdriven sound, yet still maintain the smooooth low end that I like so much. I've tried a few distortion pedals, but they are just too much, or simply not the right sound. Fulltone Bassdrive keeps alot of low end, I find it can go from slight grit to near fuzzed out distortion (with the boost channel engaged)
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 05:57 |
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Hee~. Ended up getting a new Ibanez GSR190, cherry red, with a cheap gig bag and a few other knick-knacks for just over $$200. From what I understand, it's got 2 single coil pickups (one P, one J) and passive electronics, which I actually prefer. But more importantly, it looks good, it feels good, and it sounds good. So now I only have one more obstacle: how to treat my fingernails. They're definitely getting in the way of my probably-uninformed plucking at the moment, but eventually I'll probably want to touch my classical guitar again, and then I'll want 'em somewhat long. Don't suppose too many people regularly fingerpick on a bass and a classical guitar, but I'll figure something out. Thanks for all the advice, Internet. Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got some giddy groovin' to get to.
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# ? Dec 29, 2009 23:46 |
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Lower-than-standard tension -- how do I counteract fret buzz (it seems to be one or two frets from the fingered fret)? I raised the action pretty high, but that doesn't help. More or less relief on the neck? or something else? What happens if I go up on string gauge?
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 01:53 |
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What is the correct method of thumping? I tried to do it by hitting the string with my thump near the pickup, but all that does in recording is clip and make an obnoxious sound.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 02:55 |
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Duck and burger posted:Lower-than-standard tension -- how do I counteract fret buzz (it seems to be one or two frets from the fingered fret)? I raised the action pretty high, but that doesn't help. More or less relief on the neck? or something else? What happens if I go up on string gauge? You'll want to loosen your trussrod to increase the action. If you increase string guage you can have the same lowered tuning with higher string tension, but you'll need to refile the nut to fit the bigger strings and redo the intonation. The OP actually added a nice guide to all this by scuz to the first post of this thread, too.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 03:04 |
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trans fat posted:What is the correct method of thumping? I tried to do it by hitting the string with my thump near the pickup, but all that does in recording is clip and make an obnoxious sound. Typically just below the neck, where it meets the body.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 03:16 |
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Hammer Bro. posted:Hee~. Ended up getting a new Ibanez GSR190, cherry red, with a cheap gig bag and a few other knick-knacks for just over $$200. From what I understand, it's got 2 single coil pickups (one P, one J) and passive electronics, which I actually prefer. But more importantly, it looks good, it feels good, and it sounds good. So now I only have one more obstacle: how to treat my fingernails. They're definitely getting in the way of my probably-uninformed plucking at the moment, but eventually I'll probably want to touch my classical guitar again, and then I'll want 'em somewhat long. Don't suppose too many people regularly fingerpick on a bass and a classical guitar, but I'll figure something out. I am actually more of a classical guitarist than a bassist so I understand how big a pain in the rear end fingernail length can be. I've settled on relatively short nails that still allow me to use my nails playing classical guitar, while allowing me to use only the pads of my fingers playing bass by using free strokes. If I want the fuller sound of rest strokes, I can play them with my ring finger angled back, but this works for me because the profile of this nail is more curved than the rest on my hand. On a couple songs my band plays I actually like the option of using nails for a more metallic tone. I'm not sure what to tell you if you've spent a lot of time developing technique with a longer nail, though. Nails are a pain in the rear end: I'd mostly prefer not to have them on bass, like them longer for steel string than nylon string, and for a while they messed up my bow grip on cello, and I slipped playing pizzicato a few times causing my thumbnail to mark my cello near the fingerboard a few times. But I don't know what I'd do without them. cpach fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Dec 30, 2009 |
# ? Dec 30, 2009 09:57 |
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So I've been tooling around with a bass for about 3 months now and I'm looking at getting a new amp in the new year sales. I've seen a 20W Peavey and a 30W Ashdown for the same price. As far as I've been told, more watts=better than, but my guitar playing roommate says that Peaveys are awesome and basically indestructible. Which should I get?
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 14:31 |
Solid state peaveys are cheap but they last a long time. But a 30W amp isn't going to get you far in your bass-playing career. At least consider something that will hold its own alongside a drummer.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 14:35 |
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A MIRACLE posted:Solid state peaveys are cheap but they last a long time. But a 30W amp isn't going to get you far in your bass-playing career. At least consider something that will hold its own alongside a drummer. Oh I know, I'm not planning to be in a band anytime soon. I probably should have clarified: this is just a practice amp.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 14:38 |
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SteadfastMeat posted:Oh I know, I'm not planning to be in a band anytime soon. I probably should have clarified: this is just a practice amp. If you have a chance to play through either, do so and see which sounds better to you. At that price point, and if it's purely for practicing alone, I'd recommend you look at a Roland Micro Cube Bass: http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Roland-Micro-Cube-Bass-RX-Bass-Combo-Amp?sku=483095. It has a few on-board effects to play with, a built in metronome, tuner, headphone-out, etc. But either of the choices are probably going to be good for you. And yes, Peavey's will live forever pretty much.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 14:51 |
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Heya folks, been looking around for a new amp for a while and came across this: http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Acoustic-B200H-200W-Bass-Head-and-B115-250W-1x15-Bass-Cab-Package?sku=483494 Anyone have any experience with 'em? I've been in need of a good, powerful amp to match up with a few guitar tube amps in my band. I've been wanting a stack as opposed to a combo just because I prefer having as much control over my sound as possible even down to being able to swap cabs to get it just right. I normally aim for a very mid/high punchy sound with just enough low end to give it that nice bassy body. Edit: For reference, I use this right now http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Line-6-Low-Down-Studio-110-Combo-Bass-Amp-?sku=480048 Bought it during a sort of transition time between bands when I was more interested in playing around and testing ideas than gigging.
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# ? Dec 30, 2009 16:35 |
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drat you all from hiding this thread from me. So for Christmas my wife got me a Fender Jaguar bass. I picked up a Peavy basic 40 amp for 50 bucks at the local pawn shop, and all is well...until I turn on the active pickups. Sounds like I've got a hive of bees in it. I read somewhere it is a grounding issue. Anyone have any experience with this?
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:02 |
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Jahootie posted:drat you all from hiding this thread from me. So for Christmas my wife got me a Fender Jaguar bass. I picked up a Peavy basic 40 amp for 50 bucks at the local pawn shop, and all is well...until I turn on the active pickups. Sounds like I've got a hive of bees in it. I read somewhere it is a grounding issue. Anyone have any experience with this? From a quick search on talkbass it looks like it is a shielding problem. It looks like this guy has a solution: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6743187&postcount=77 Congratulations on a nice new bass! Hope you get it sorted.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:07 |
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Looks like I am going to get some shielding tape. Thanks for the heads up on that.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:14 |
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There's also a shielding megathread here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159191 You should use copper shielding, which you can even buy from carvin.com or if you are cheap like me, you can get away with less optimal shielding and use aluminum tape.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 17:09 |
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I've noticed a few songs that use an analog synth to double the bass part, and research leads me to believe it's the Moog Taurus. Yes, they just reissued that synth, but I don't have $2,000 to spend on one. What are some good ways to get a bass synth sound? I only know a little about pedals, and it seems like it'd take more than an envelope filter to mimic a Taurus.
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# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:36 |
my new p bass, made in japan. I think it's a reissue or something. It's really nice
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# ? Jan 2, 2010 03:28 |
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Fender Tony Franklin Fretted Precision Bass So I snagged this off eBay a few months ago. It's gorgeous, it sounds awesome for the punk band I play with, and I got it for $1100 in like new condition (lists for $2400 but sells for about $1700, and is hard to find). I'm basically in love with it, but the bridge is a complete waste of my time. Maybe I'm stupid or unfamiliar with why not, but the bridge saddle screws do not have grooves in the bridge baseplate and it drives me nuts. When I play with a pick, the saddle will slide and fall out of place, and I'll inevitably lose the spring. Can someone explain why this is? And more importantly, I'm looking for a new bridge for it. Is the Badass II still the way to go or should I be shopping around for something else? I'd be getting it installed/filed/set up at a local shop that has done awesome work for me in the past. I can get the Badass II for about $80 but I'd be willing to spend a little more if there's something else that's taken its place.
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# ? Jan 2, 2010 23:38 |
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hedgecore posted:
Regarding the bridge, are you picking in a direction which pulls the strings away from the bridge causing the posts to pop up?
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# ? Jan 3, 2010 00:15 |
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Just bought. Now I gotta wait 5-9 days. But it will be worth it as it's replacing what I've dubbed the Frankenstein "amp stack" (Cam pics, apologies.) That's right, an Ibanez BT10 Bass Combo amp head cutout of it's combo, attached to a Tandberg TL50 that I found in the trash. Wasn't properly grounded, and had a LOT of treble buzz and was ugly, but it was LOUD. I'm going to miss it..
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# ? Jan 3, 2010 19:19 |
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Schatten posted:Regarding the bridge, are you picking in a direction which pulls the strings away from the bridge causing the posts to pop up? I don't have 100% perfect picking technique, but I'm definitely just strumming straight across and not pulling up. I've never once run into this on any number of other basses I've played (my standard American Fender P-bass, Rickenbacker 4003), or anything else that has those grooves that mine does not. I'm almost tempted to just take the bridge off the standard American P I have and have it installed on this guy.
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# ? Jan 3, 2010 19:20 |
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# ? May 10, 2024 19:20 |
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hedgecore, you can get the Badass II though you'll have to file the saddles yourself. You could also get a Gotoh 201, which is like a more substantial version of the stock Fender bridge with grooves for the saddle screws. Big Face, your half stack loving owns.
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# ? Jan 4, 2010 13:48 |