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I think this is more audio than anything else, with this stuff it's sometimes hard to tell which thread to go to... Got a 4-Port HDMI Switch with Stereo, Digital Audio Output from Monoprice, HDX-401TA TV is a Sony Bravia KDF-50E3000 I'm trying to eliminate all of these cables and hitting the "input" button all the time. Things that are dumb - - Audio does not go through the switch to my TV. Audio over HDMI gives me "unsupported audio signal. check your device output" on my screen. - The TV has a stereo input next to the HDMI input, but I can't get stereo to go out to the TV from the switch - Can't get stereo out to work to the receiver - Going to buy a new 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to see if it works - If not, sending this back, if a new cable does work: - Gonna try to strip out audio signal by converting hdmi to dvi then back to hdmi and do stereo input into the tv along with the hdmi video Is this a horrible idea or am I wasting my time? edit- Monoprice support is giving me conflicting solutions. One guy says the switch isn't compatible with my cable box and therefore no audio and says I should try a different switch, and another guy says my HDMI cables aren't thick enough. He's dead convinced my 28 AWG cables wont do it and I need 24 AWG. I'm not running miles of cable here, does it make that much of a difference? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Dec 26, 2009 |
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Dec 26, 2009 16:23
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I've got an iPhone, but I have a small problem. When I have it anywhere near my desk (like, on the desk or within 3') I get interference in my speakers. Not all the time, only when the phone is getting data. But that means every call, every text, every email, etc... causes the interference. It sounds like this: So currently I'm forced to keep my phone several feet away, which is annoying when I have to actually answer it. My speakers are fairly old, from late 2002. They're a Creative 5.1 system. If I get a new system that connects with an optical or digital interface, will I still get this problem? Near as I can tell, it's the speakers themselves causing the issue, not the connection (and besides, AFAIK only the connection to the subwoofer/"controller" or whatever is digital, the individual speakers are still regular wire.) So am I going to have to pay out the rear end for some sort of crazy, Faraday-caged isolated speakers, or just deal with it and stop being a puss?
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Dec 28, 2009 18:31
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DrBouvenstein posted:I've got an iPhone, but I have a small problem. When I have it anywhere near my desk (like, on the desk or within 3') I get interference in my speakers. Not all the time, only when the phone is getting data. But that means every call, every text, every email, etc... causes the interference. It sounds like this: It should only happen when the phone is using "Edge". And only with powered speakers. Just keep you phone away from your speakers or get a 3G.
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Dec 28, 2009 19:08
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Suqit posted:It should only happen when the phone is using "Edge". And only with powered speakers. Just keep you phone away from your speakers or get a 3G. Well I do try and keep it away, but it has to be so far away that I have to get up from my chair to answer the phone. And it has 3G, but loving AT&T has no 3G service where I live...they say it should start rolling out here in January, but I'm dubious. So now that my interest in piqued...why does only Edge and powered speakers do this?
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Dec 28, 2009 19:33
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I'm replacing my Onkyo reciever from a HTIB system. It is HDMI passthrough on Audio and Video, and doesn't support relabeling the outputs, so it's just in general kind of not cutting it these days. My price range is between 500 and 900 dollars, I only use 5.1 (not 7.1), I primarily use the TV for games and movies, but I do have a Wii and watch some SDTV so upscaling is a nice feature but not critical. I'm driving Infinity Primus P362 speakers for the left and right channels, and I'm gonna be ordering the matching center here as well. I'm just using the old HTIB speakers for my surrounds. Any recommendations for a receiver? I've looked at the SR607 and 707, they both look good, though I can't get a clear answer on whether the features of the 707 make it worth the upgrade. I don't really know much about equivalent pioneer or denon units in the price range so if anyone has any specific advice that'd be awesome.
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Dec 28, 2009 23:30
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Suqit posted:It should only happen when the phone is using "Edge". And only with powered speakers. Just keep you phone away from your speakers or get a 3G. Sorry to burst your bubble but that happens on 3G too, my phone does it all the time while communicating and I'm in a 3G coverage area.
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Dec 28, 2009 23:49
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djkillingspree posted:I'm replacing my Onkyo reciever from a HTIB system. It is HDMI passthrough on Audio and Video, and doesn't support relabeling the outputs, so it's just in general kind of not cutting it these days. The 607 will do everything you're looking for (including upscaling). I think the only tangible difference between that and the 70x is the power rating of the amps and the number of inputs/outputs/etc Just be sure to check your impedance on the speakers vs the receiver before you pull the trigger
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Dec 29, 2009 02:50
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Crossposting from SHSC; Can HDMI cables go bad, losing audio? It seems improbable, but I moved my HTPC and when I reconnected the HDMI cable I have video but no audio under Windows and Linux. Also, when I plug the same cable into my Xbox I have no display at all. Anyone seen this before? I have a new, shorter cable on order from monoprice just in case.
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Dec 29, 2009 04:11
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vanilla slimfast posted:The 607 will do everything you're looking for (including upscaling). I think the only tangible difference between that and the 70x is the power rating of the amps and the number of inputs/outputs/etc Hmm, that makes sense. I'm 99.999% sure everything's 8ohm so I should be good.
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Dec 29, 2009 09:54
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I'm having a bit of trouble with placing my shiny new speakers around the house without making it all look quite bad, which is a problem especially for my girlfriend. The problem is that the tv/unit stand can't take the centre speaker, cable box, Playstation 3 and receiver, which means I have to run cables on put stuff on top of another cabinet right now, and it's not looking very nice. So I'm now looking to get a new tv/entertainment unit that will fit everything. What's a good place to look for these? It has to be wooden pretty much due to the rest of the interior. Most seem to have 2 x 2 spaces in the unit which would mean that I can't really put the centre speaker in the centre... is that a big problem?
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Dec 29, 2009 12:44
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The Flying Clog Wog posted:So I'm now looking to get a new tv/entertainment unit that will fit everything. I used to have a similar problem, so last month I switched from the traditional "entertainment center" to a combination of a TV stand and a component cabinet (aka a/v cabinet, stereo cabinet). An entertainment center is highly dependent on the size of your TV, and your choices are limited. By separating the system into two, I was able to make room for everything using about the same amount of floorspace and I think the finished room looks better overall. I purchased from these two websites: http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.aspx http://www.studiotech.com/
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Dec 29, 2009 13:19
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Princess posted:I used to have a similar problem, so last month I switched from the traditional "entertainment center" to a combination of a TV stand and a component cabinet (aka a/v cabinet, stereo cabinet). Only problem I can think of is that I'll have to point the remote in different directions, but that's not all that bad. And I guess a simple repeater would solve that, too.
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Dec 29, 2009 13:43
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I use headphones (Sennheiser HD 201) with the on-board sound card on my PC. But even with all the volume settings maxed, the headphones are just too quiet. What are my options here if I don't want to spend a lot of money? a) buy a cheap headphone amp (does such a thing even exist?) b) buy new cheap headphones which will hopefully be louder c) buy new cheap soundcard d) something else? Siliziumleben fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 30, 2009 00:28
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Siliziumleben posted:
Such a thing certainly does exist. There's the classic do-it-yourself CMOY design, or the PA2V2. Both of those can be found on ebay from reputable builders.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:53
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eddiewalker posted:Such a thing certainly does exist. There's the classic do-it-yourself CMOY design, or the PA2V2. Both of those can be found on ebay from reputable builders.
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Dec 30, 2009 23:01
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Siliziumleben posted:All the CMOY and PA2V2 results on ebay run on batteries, which is out of the question since I wear my headphones pretty much all day. If you want a headphone amp that plugs in, I have a pretty nice one I never use. PM me for details.
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Dec 30, 2009 23:05
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The PA2V2 runs on its adapter just as happily as it runs on batteries. And he isn't loving around when he says that it'll run for like 90+ hours of use between charges. NiMH batteries rule. It's a great design, I've lost contact with Gary but I used to chat with him via email and he was always a really cool guy.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:13
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My PS3 runs through a monitor, which is fine for now as for sound I can just use the optical connection on my speakers, but it's not going to be feasible to take them with when I go back to uni, but the speakers and headphones I have at uni just have a 3.5mm connector. SO Bearing in mind I'm using an HDMI cable for video, would I be able to play audio straight from the PS3 by plugging an RGB cable into the console -> a female rgb to female 3.5mm adapter (can you even get those?) -> whatever I need with the new headphone socket? Or does it do silly things with the signal? I have literally no idea with this kind of thing.
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Jan 1, 2010 22:08
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I apologize in advance if this question has been answered already, I don't have time to scour this thread at the moment. I've been running my tv through my Stereo for sound for a while now. I just got a turntable, and I'd like to run that through the speakers as well. The issue is that my stereo only has one set auxiliary inputs, and I don't want to crawl into my entertainment center and switch it every time I want to spin some delicious vinyl. I pretty sure I need some sort of switch for this. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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Jan 2, 2010 00:49
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The Grumbles posted:Bearing in mind I'm using an HDMI cable for video, would I be able to play audio straight from the PS3 by plugging an RGB cable into the console -> a female rgb to female 3.5mm adapter (can you even get those?) -> whatever I need with the new headphone socket? Or does it do silly things with the signal? I have literally no idea with this kind of thing. RGB? Do you mean RCA? If so, yes, you should be able to hook up a composite/component cable that uses the PS3's AV output jack and specify that it should output analog sound that way, rather than over HDMI.
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Jan 2, 2010 17:09
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Schpyder posted:RGB? Do you mean RCA? Yeah, you can definitely do this, I used to do this (before my PS3 broke  )
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Jan 2, 2010 19:38
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Yeah, I did mean RCA. Thanks.
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Jan 2, 2010 20:29
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Matty D posted:I apologize in advance if this question has been answered already, I don't have time to scour this thread at the moment. You do realize that your stereo would need a phono input in order for this to work, right? Just plugging the turntable straight into the same line-level input will not work (it will be way too quiet). Here's why: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization Sounds like you need to invest in an audio switch (here's a 2-channel one at radioshack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049644). You will also need a phono preamp vanilla slimfast fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 19:02
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vanilla slimfast posted:You do realize that your stereo would need a phono input in order for this to work, right? Just plugging the turntable straight into the same line-level input will not work (it will be way too quiet). Here's why: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization Yes, you will need a phono preamp as well unless the turntable you've acquired specifically states that it has a line-level output (Most do not but some DJ turntables have a switch that will change it from phono to line level output.) The way that I'd go would be to invest in a component preamp which is generally used in audio systems that have discrete amplifiers (Not an all-in-one receiver/amp unit.) I.E. http://www.phonopreamps.com/tc754pp.html for something on the cheaper end.
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Jan 4, 2010 04:11
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Looking at speakers at the current moment in time, can't decide between the 5.1 set and getting quality 3.1. 5.1: Klipsch Quintet III. Has decent reviews, ample size for the apartment, and Klipsch has been a great brand. Cost: $230 3.1: Klipsch C-1. It's cheap, and fits where I want to put it. Polk TSi100s or Monitor 30s. Listening to them in store, I thought they sounded decent sans subwoofer. Easily can put them in the back if/when I move and get some Towers. Some type of Speaker Stand Cost: ~$250. Basically it's a toss up between a decent 5.1 or a pretty good 3.1 that I can upgrade to a 5.1/7.1 just as easily when I get enough room. The size of the room is about 18' x 12' without measuring, and the sub I'd be getting is the PSW110 Any opinions before I jump into it and end up going with the 3.1? Edit: I have a TX-SR607 which is why I'm contemplating going with the Klipsch Quintet III. Damnit, I feel like it doesn't matter at this point, as I'm going to upgrade it all eventually... I'll just use either the Monitors in a 5.1/7.1 or 2 of the Quintet's in the 7.1. Mughe fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 23:10
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Looking for a recommendation on a bookshelf/mini system for my bedroom. The primary driver will be airtunes, so aux in matters more than anything else. Requirements: $400 or $500 ceiling. DOES NOT LOOK LIKE IT WAS BUILT ON MARS. Holy poo poo these boom boxes are ugly! Aux inputs, optical ideal but stereo will work (airTunes). Must be small and attractive. Subwoofer line out would be nice, but isn't necessary. Don't care a bit about this: Clock features optional. CD player optional. iPod dock optional. Video features, I will NEVER use them (don't believe in TV in the bedroom). I'm looking at the Denon DM-37, Onkyo CS-325, and the Yamaha MCR-730. I'm leaning toward the Denon just because it comes in silver, but I haven't actually auditioned any of them. Anyone have any other recommendations, or know of something that also fits the bill? Any advice on a good, physically compact sub that I could hide under the bed & pair with these guys?
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Jan 5, 2010 01:53
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fahrvergnugen posted:Looking for a recommendation on a bookshelf/mini system for my bedroom. The primary driver will be airtunes, so aux in matters more than anything else. Those look like good choices. You might also be interested in the Teac Reference series receivers which would let you choose your own speakers.
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Jan 5, 2010 02:36
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BattleHork posted:Those look like good choices. You might also be interested in the Teac Reference series receivers which would let you choose your own speakers. This is a good idea. My dad got my mom a CR-H227i for christmas this year, to put in the kitchen with a couple of polk bookshelf speakers, and it's far and away the best shelf system I've ever heard in person.
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Jan 5, 2010 03:20
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Schpyder posted:This is a good idea. My dad got my mom a CR-H227i for christmas this year, to put in the kitchen with a couple of polk bookshelf speakers, and it's far and away the best shelf system I've ever heard in person. Teac makes good stuff? seriously? I've only seen their name on crappy K-Mart all-in-ones. Who'd have thought. This is an interesting notion. I already have a pair of old un-used Polk R10's that came free with my towers back when I bought them in '00, so I could just use those until I get some upgrade cash for better bookshelves. Wouldn't sound as great at first, but I'd have a good base to start from. What about the low-profile sub question? Room isn't that big, I'd just want something to fill out the low-end.
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Jan 5, 2010 03:45
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TEAC is a solid company. They especially make some nice mid-pro gear under their TASCAM name.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 03:52
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fahrvergnugen posted:Teac makes good stuff? seriously? I've only seen their name on crappy K-Mart all-in-ones. Who'd have thought. TEAC's Referece Series from above is very well regarded. Most of their bottom-end consumer-grade stuff is... not. But then, you could say the same thing about Sony and their bottom-end stuff, or most manufacturers that sell stuff in that price range.
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Jan 5, 2010 06:09
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fahrvergnugen posted:What about the low-profile sub question? Room isn't that big, I'd just want something to fill out the low-end. Without knowing all your details, I should probably point out that you could wait until you set up and hear your new system in the room before you buy the woofer. Experiencing the bookshelves, the room, and the music might give you a better idea of how much sub you need. Or, it's possible you'd decide you don't really need a sub. However, since I was looking into an under-the-bed subwoofer myself, I figure I'll share some options I was bookmarking: MTX Lolita 8" 100 Watt Low Profile Subwoofer http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=302-047 I'm a little skeptical of how well something like this would sound with only an 8 inch since I do watch movies in the bedroom. I have no experience with MTX or any of the other low profile brands I came across while browsing. Making your own enclosures is not that hard, and if space limitation is the restricting factor, it could be the way to go. I found a plan for neat looking low profile sub: The Boogieman http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/boogieman/index.html Personally, I would be very interested to test this speaker in a custom enclosure: Tang Band WQ-1814S 12" Subwoofer http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-896&ctab=1#Tabs
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Jan 5, 2010 13:38
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Princess posted:Awesome advice This is fantastic, thanks! I think bass will probably count, because one of the reasons I'm getting bedroom music in the first place is for boot knockin'. It ain't a Barry White song or a Tricky song without the low-end, y'know?
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Jan 5, 2010 18:13
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I'm setting up a college recording studio. I have (inactive? non-active? they aren't powered) monitors that I would like to hook up. Can I use a Behringer Powerplay Pro-8 headphone amp to power them? If not, what should I use?
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Jan 6, 2010 03:04
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andy17null posted:I'm setting up a college recording studio. I have (inactive? non-active? they aren't powered) monitors that I would like to hook up. Can I use a Behringer Powerplay Pro-8 headphone amp to power them? If not, what should I use?
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Jan 6, 2010 04:50
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andy17null posted:I'm setting up a college recording studio. I have (inactive? non-active? they aren't powered) monitors that I would like to hook up. Can I use a Behringer Powerplay Pro-8 headphone amp to power them? If not, what should I use? Seconding Saukkis. But mainly posting to say that your speakers are passive as opposed to active.
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Jan 6, 2010 05:11
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Sniep posted:(Most do not but some DJ turntables have a switch that will change it from phono to line level output.) There actually is a phono/line input on the back of the turntable, so i guess that means that I don't need the phono pre amp? But, it still sounds very quiet. Again, I apologize for my daftness. Matty D fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 07:26
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Matty D posted:There actually is a line phono/line input on the back of the turntable, so i guess that means that I don't need the phono pre amp? But, it still sounds very quiet. I don't quite grok "line phono/line input" -- What is the model of the turntable? I'll just look at the specs on it.
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Jan 6, 2010 07:29
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Audio-Technica AT-LP60 http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/turntables/9a7f42b88ee1e14b/index.html And my stereo is like an 8 year old 3 cd changer JVC  edit: I meant there was a phono/line switch. My bad. Matty D fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 07:52
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I'm using a pair of JPL Control 1 Pro's.
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Jan 6, 2010 08:04
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