|
Well, the correct answer is it depends on exactly what chemicals you are working with. In most cases a P100 filter stacked with Organic Vapour/Acid Gas will work. I recommend 3m products. If you ever have any questions their technical support, or the manufacter of the chemical, along with the MSDS will answers any questions you have. I prefer full face respirators over half face. Some fumes can damage/irritates the eyes. Also it provides better impact protection then safety glasses. Believe it or not, I also find them more comfortable too. Edit: Also, you can keep the moustache and the neckbeard, but everything else on your face needs to go. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jan 7, 2010 |
#
?
Jan 7, 2010 16:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 22:46 |
|
|
Dragyn posted:I have a massive garage/barn with a loft that I use as a hangout in the summer. Problem is, it gets extraordinarily hot because it isn't ventilated at roof height at all. Just put in a couple turbines (the spinning minaret on top of houses), or if you want to get fancy, get the temperature selective ones.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2010 17:20
|
|
|
Dobermaniac posted:It's a doorbell transformer. I have had to replace them about every 12 months in our house. When it is working, it is usually hot and makes a hum noise. you go through one a year?!? They should last much longer than that... You might want to get an electrician to come and check things out, you might have a bigger problem than just your doorbell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 00:35
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:you go through one a year?!? They should last much longer than that... You might want to get an electrician to come and check things out, you might have a bigger problem than just your doorbell. Nothing else dies like my 10 dollar doorbell transformers. We live in a brand new house inside of Fort Worth in a new subdivision so I don't think it has anything to do with the power. I think they are just cheap transformers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 03:30
|
|
|
I agree with Kid Sinister. A transformer isn't much more than a coil of wire... it shouldn't just 'die' after a year of use.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 19:59
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I agree with Kid Sinister. A transformer isn't much more than a coil of wire... it shouldn't just 'die' after a year of use. A light bulb is just a coil of wire, too, and they don't last a whole year if lit constantly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 20:21
|
|
|
Are you suggesting Dobermaniac's transformer is on, continuously, for a year? Perhaps I'm mistaken, but I was under the impression it'd only be 'on' when someone presses the doorbell button. In any case, an incandescent lightbulb is a tungsten filament that gets white-hot when activated. Even then, many lightbulbs last, continuously lit, for decades. A year is not at all unusual. And they cost less than $10. The point is, I think the suggestion that something else might be wrong is worth investigating, in this case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 20:35
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Are you suggesting Dobermaniac's transformer is on, continuously, for a year? I'm pretty sure it is on constantly, because when I touch it, it is usually hot/warm and buzzing. The old one did it and the new one did it too until dying.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 23:25
|
|
|
It would have to be on constantly so the doorbell button can switch 12V instead of 120V. Maybe you can get a better quality transformer next time?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 23:31
|
|
|
Hmm. Maybe that's what's wrong? That's weird. Why design a system that wastes power for days on end, just to make a noise once a week or something? OK I give up, maybe it's actually designed that way for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 23:32
|
|
|
Yeah, kind of sucks. Some random guy measured his at 3W: http://www.newenglandbreeze.com/nl/TEM20080901.html It is designed that way on purpose though. Have you got a better idea that doesn't require running 120V to the bell switch? There are battery-operated electronic ones I guess, but that's not too different. Personally I prefer the old-fashioned knock.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2010 23:39
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Hmm. Maybe that's what's wrong? That's weird. Why design a system that wastes power for days on end, just to make a noise once a week or something? OK I give up, maybe it's actually designed that way for some reason. They're designed in the 1920s when nobody cared about power usage.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2010 02:40
|
|
|
I'm converting one of our spare bedrooms into a full-time office for my freelance business. Problem is, the outlets aren't grounded. However, the room is right above the circuit breaker and the ceiling above the breaker is exposed rafters, so I'm thinking it should be pretty easy to just add a ground line and keep the existing power wiring. Does anyone have a really good guide on how to do this? Specifically on how to tie the new ground lines into the circuit breaker properly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2010 00:24
|
|
|
FamousThomas posted:I use a lot of epoxies and heavy adhesives and I'm starting to get worried about what I'm breathing. What type of face mask / respirator should I get to keep me from going all Mad Hatter? I would recommend contacting the epoxy manufacturer directly, as well as consulting the MSDS associated with whatever chemicals you are using heavily. dv6speed is right about a P110/OG/AG being a fairly good choice for most work, although depending on the application it may be overkill. The most important thing is that you make sure your respirator fits properly. I didn't view the whole thing, but the video below looks like a good guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzpz5fko-fg
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2010 05:58
|
|
|
mcsuede posted:I'm converting one of our spare bedrooms into a full-time office for my freelance business. Someone who knows better than me can confirm I'm sure, but I don't think you can just tie grounds by themselves. It'd probably be easier and safer to just rewire the circuits to the box (you can use the old lines to pull the new 12/2 lines. You might want to cross post to here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2010 20:38
|
|
|
mcsuede posted:I'm converting one of our spare bedrooms into a full-time office for my freelance business. Be safe, and turn off the main breaker before doing this. You won't be able to turn off the wires coming into the box, but it'll cut down on chances of hurting yourself. Be aware that there is no breaker upstream of your main breaker to trip and protect you- if you somehow short the wires coming from your meter, it's *bad*. grover fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jan 17, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2010 04:27
|
|
|
grover posted:Normally, it's illegal to run a ground wire separate from the other wires (they need to be run together), but I *think* it's legal for retrofit work like this. Yeah it's legal for a retrofit: NEC 250.130(C).
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2010 18:45
|
|
|
In the next week or two (when it stops raining long enough for it to be really nice and dry under the house) I'm going to do exactly the same thing as those other guys: run grounding wire from two or three outlets back to the breaker box. I looked at Home Depot and at Frys and all they have in green-jacketed 14 gauge wire is multi-stranded. Is that OK? I kind of thought single-core would be better for grounding but I'm not sure why, it just 'feels' right. (14 gauge because that's what this 15-amp circuit that all three outlets are on was wired with.) Also: where on the metal outlet box should I attach the wire? Is there a preferred spot? (The boxes aren't plastic, I checked already). Finally also: when adding up everything I want to run on this 15-amp circuit, how do I factor in computers? E.g., my computer has a "650 Watt" power supply, but I know for a fact I'm way under the power budget for it (only one graphics card, only one hard drive). Is it really drawing 650 watts, or is it something a lot less than that? I have a basic multimeter. Is it possible to put the PC into stress-test (with a benchmarking program) and then measure its power consumption somehow using a multimeter? Finally: my breaker box has a few open 'slots'. Does that mean I can easily add (say) a new 20-amp circuit and run that out to one of the bedrooms? Right now, I have all three bedrooms and most of the living room on the same 15-amp circuit, which was probably how they designed it when the house was built in 1958, back when all anyone ran in their bedrooms was a few lamps and maybe a radio. I'm now running four PCs, a bunch of lighting and a heat element (for my exotic pets), and (in the LR) an entertainment center. So it'd be great to isolate the BR that's my home office on its own grounded circuit, but if that requires tearing into the walls, well... gently caress that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2010 08:03
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I looked at Home Depot and at Frys and all they have in green-jacketed 14 gauge wire is multi-stranded. Is that OK? I kind of thought single-core would be better for grounding but I'm not sure why, it just 'feels' right. It depends on personal preference and budget really. Stranded is more flexible, but is usually more expensive. As for where to attach, attach it anywhere it can be screwed down tightly against the box. Take a look inside one of the boxes. Sometimes the boxes have one hole inside that is threaded where a standard grounding screw can be inserted. Depends on the multimeter. The only kinds that can test a device that is currently plugged in are the clamp type, not the more common 2-probe type. However there are clamp-probe adapters for use with 2-probe multimeters. You could also use one of those plug in boxes that you then plug your device in to measure current, but you would have to unplug your PC to use one of those. Hold on, you'll need to total up your breakers first and see if what you want to add would put you over your service amperage/box rating.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2010 09:10
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:
What you want is one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...DSDE5AF6GGDS1MA A Kill-A-Watt by far the simplest way to measure device usage.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2010 15:59
|
|
|
OK, thanks. Now that I think about it, I think a friend of mine has one of those kill-a-watt thingies so maybe he'll let me borrow it. I'll have to add up the circuits in the box and see what that comes out to. If it winds up I can't add a circuit, can I re-use one? There is at least one 20-amp circuit that, as far as my survey seems to show, only powers a single outlet in the garage (which already has another dedicated circuit). There's another 20-amp circuit that only powers the outlet under the sink, which has the garbage disposal plugged into it but that's all. There's no reason the garbage disposal and (gas) stove can't share a circuit, so, I could re-wire that one maybe.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2010 21:41
|
|
|
I got a little too vigorous with my laptop and tweaked the power jack enough to where I can't get it to charge no matter how I try to coax the plug. I need to solder a new jack. And I don't know how to solder. What do I need to buy/know/read to get this done right?
El Kabong fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jan 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 01:05
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:I got a little too vigorous with my laptop and tweaked the power jack enough to where I can't get it to charge no matter how I try to coax the plug. I need to solder a new jack. And I don't know how to solder. What do I need to buy/know/read to get this done right? Uhh, we got a thread for electronics... http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977 I've actually replaced a laptop power connector before here's the short version: you need a soldering iron, solder, something to cut and strip the cable, and a new barrel plug connector that fits your laptop, and they aren't all the same... You might have to buy a few and see which fits your laptop. There are 3 real measurements of the plug, all are in mm: outer diameter, inner diameter, and plug length. Most laptops I've worked with used 5.5mm O.D. plugs, while I.D. and length varied. Leperflesh posted:OK, thanks. Now that I think about it, I think a friend of mine has one of those kill-a-watt thingies so maybe he'll let me borrow it. This is getting beyond the "quick questions" thread. Try the electrical thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jan 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 03:01
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I've actually replaced a laptop power connector before here's the short version: you need a soldering iron, solder, something to cut and strip the cable, and a new barrel plug connector that fits your laptop, and they aren't all the same... You might have to buy a few and see which fits your laptop. There are 3 real measurements of the plug, all are in mm: outer diameter, inner diameter, and plug length. Most laptops I've worked with used 5.5mm O.D. plugs, while I.D. and length varied. And if your laptop is like mine, you'll take out every single loving component before you can get to the connector.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 03:23
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Uhh, we got a thread for electronics... Quick follow-up, what's a good place to buy the connector from?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 04:18
|
|
|
Ok, I'm thinking about remodeling my bathroom since I'm getting new toilets for free from my city. How much is the price difference between hiring an independent contractor versus using Home Depot's services, and is it worth the difference? This is my first house, so I've never done any remodeling before, but I am terribly un-handy and don't trust myself with anythinig like this by myself. I just wanted to see if my hunch that Home Depot's services would be way overpriced is correct. Also, what is the proper etiquette for requesting estimates? Do I just schedule them to come by and give them a description of what I'm thinking about, or should I already have materials picked out and a list of what I'd want them to do? Discospawn fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 04:49
|
|
|
Discospawn posted:Ok, I'm thinking about remodeling my bathroom since I'm getting new toilets for free from my city. How much is the price difference between hiring an independent contractor versus using Home Depot's services, and is it worth the difference? This is my first house, so I've never done any remodeling before, but I am terribly un-handy and don't trust myself with anythinig like this by myself. I just wanted to see if my hunch that Home Depot's services would be way overpriced is correct. Please consider asking people you trust (family, friends, coworkers) to refer you to at least three different contractors to get estimates. As to your second question, I'd suggest that you do both. In anticipation of getting the estimates, try to learn what is involved with the installation and what obstacles you might run into. But don't start your conversation with your list of steps you think it will take -- just give them that description of what you are looking for and give them a chance to tell you how they would carry it out. This is an opportunity to see whether the guy you're talking with is the kind of contractor that cuts corners, for example. Once you get a feel for their approach then you can get into the details. This is often the part of the planning where I find out about some of my assumptions or misconceptions about the project (which is always informative, and sometimes helps keep me from making mistakes). On the other hand, you may just get the feeling that you are not going to be able to work with someone (if they aren't listening actively to your description of the project, maybe), and that's just as valuable to find out beforehand. If you find a good plumber for this project, the good news is that you'll have someone to call on from here forward. If you aren't comfortable with weighing the options you are presented, consider having a handy friend either be around to meet the potential contractor when they come to give the estimate or be on hand to check in on the work with you when its underway. If the information on what the toilets the city is providing are like isn't widespread, make sure you have the specifications on hand when you meet with the contractors (or visit Home Depot) so they can be ready. Not all toilets are installed the same distance from the wall, for example. Mark Kidd fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 20, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 05:04
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:Quick follow-up, what's a good place to buy the connector from? Which connector do you need to replace: the plug from the power supply, or the jack inside the laptop casing?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2010 21:27
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Which connector do you need to replace: the plug from the power supply, or the jack inside the laptop casing? the jack inside the laptop
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2010 21:03
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:the jack inside the laptop poo poo. That connector can be replaced, but it will be really loving difficult to do. First off, you have to take apart your entire laptop and extract the motherboard. Try and google up your laptop's make and model along with "service manual", that will give you instructions on how to take it apart. Keep track of where every single screw goes, laptop screws can't be interchanged easily. I recommend taking a shitload of pictures throughout the process. Once you've extracted the motherboard, see if you can easily repair the jack itself. If you're lucky, the solder just broke and you just need to solder it back down. If that happened, then check to see if the jack tore any solder pads away from their circuit traces when it came up. If the jack can't be salvaged, then prepare to get out a metric ruler and to read a shitload of part spec sheets hoping to find a replacement. In this case you'll need to know how to de-solder too, but that's pretty easy to do.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2010 22:22
|
|
|
What kid sinister said. For de-soldering, you'll want some copper de-soldering braid. I also recommend using a low wattage (15-20 watt) iron with a grounded tip to prevent against stray static charges. Too high a wattage iron and you'll destroy the glue that holds the copper foil to the substrate. Also, if you don't have an ESD matt and wrist strap to work on, I recommend taking your shoes off, and touching some metal object on a regular basis. Also, wear cotton clothing instead of synthetic (or just do it naked). This will help to control any static charges. It's the winter time, so it is very dry, which is a perfect environment for static electricity. I used to repair Dell laptops in the field professionally, so I know what I'm talking about here. Also, be very careful with disassembly, a manual if you can find one is great. The plastics can be a pain to separate if you're not used to doing it. Also be careful when removing stuff like the keyboard and palmrest as they may have delicate cables that are easy to damage. Some brands of laptops are easier to work on then others. If you have a Dell, jump for joy as it is by far the easiest machine to work on. If you have an IBM, you may as well shoot yourself now. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jan 21, 2010 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2010 22:35
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:Quick follow-up, what's a good place to buy the connector from? I'm a fan of Mouser Electronics.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2010 22:40
|
|
|
dv6speed posted:I'm a fan of Mouser Electronics. Note: if you ever buy anything from Mouser, they will send you a phonebook-sized catalog every year.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2010 01:20
|
|
|
Are most laptops really that complicated? On my iBook, the power jack was not located on the motherboard proper. It had a little cord that plugged into the motherboard, and then a bit of board under the jack itself where it fit in the case. The replacement job was as easy as buying the part, taking the bottom of the case off the computer, and unplugging the broken one and throwing it away. Is the power jack usually located right on the motherboard in other laptops? If you're unable to buy the part from the manufacturer, have you tried searching for power jack along with the laptop make and model on Amazon or Ebay? That might save you some really tedious and probably impossible work, since you might not even be able to measure the sizes of the jack properly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2010 09:12
|
|
|
NancyPants posted:Are most laptops really that complicated? On my iBook, the power jack was not located on the motherboard proper. It had a little cord that plugged into the motherboard, and then a bit of board under the jack itself where it fit in the case. The replacement job was as easy as buying the part, taking the bottom of the case off the computer, and unplugging the broken one and throwing it away. Is the power jack usually located right on the motherboard in other laptops? I have to compliment Apple on having the smarts to locate the power jack off of the motherboard. That's just drat good engineering. Only like 1 or 2 Dell models I worked on did that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2010 15:38
|
|
|
Does anyone else here work with fused glass or stained glass? Sharing my projects with 50yo women isn't really my style. No offense to the ladies themselves they've been helpful. I've kinda been teaching myself how to do all of it on the two kilns in the basement. I guess I was wondering if it were worth a thread; or if I'd be the only one posting in it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2010 18:08
|
|
|
I'll probably never work with glass in my lifetime, however, I find the processes used quite fascinating, so I say start a thread. Worst that happens is it dies due to lack of interest.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2010 19:11
|
|
|
I have a print of a painting I want to hang up, but I don't want a frame. There's a plastics place nearby where I can easily order up a piece cut to the dimensions of the print. But for the life of me, I can't remember what the hell the things used to hang it all up on my wall are called! Brackets? Mounts? I don't know what I need. I know it's really simple. There's the plastic, the print behind the plastic, and then the wall. How to I keep it all on the wall?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2010 20:45
|
|
|
Are you talking about those plastic mirror hangers? http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-452-mirror-hanger/mirror-holders-and-anchors-218040.aspx 
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2010 21:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 22:46 |
|
|
dv6speed posted:Yes, most laptops have the connector soldered right on the board. Of all the motherboards I replaced in laptops under warranty, almost a 1/4 of them had to do with broken power jacks. After replacing the connector a good half-dozen times on my older laptop, I did a pigtail connection where the actual connector was outside of the laptop, connected with a good 4-6" of braided wire. A hack for sure, but even with a new connector, the solder kept snapping off the connector, so I said hell with it. If you don't want to deal with Mouser, most of the connectors are on eBay too. You just have to know EXACTLY what you are looking for.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2010 09:23
|
|
