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ljw1004 posted:Just out of curiosity, what exactly does "stance" mean? How low to the ground and how wide are the tires? The more "agressive" the stance, the lower the car is to the ground and the wider the tires are. Reasonable minds may differ.
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Jan 7, 2010 21:06
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wicked sweet stance bro
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Jan 7, 2010 21:34
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BMW is introducing adaptive stance control in 2012. Now my car won't look like a pussy when it is parked on a hill.
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Jan 7, 2010 22:37
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ynotony posted:BMW is introducing adaptive stance control in 2012. Now my car won't look like a pussy when it is parked on a hill. Can you turn it off to manually control your stance? (only if you're a qualified hard parker, not advocating it for inexperienced owners)
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Jan 7, 2010 22:49
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ynotony posted:It is smaller, lighter, faster, and sportier than a 3 series. Much like how a 3 series is smaller, lighter, faster, and sportier than a 5 series. Price wise, the most expensive 1 series is more expensive than the cheapest 3, the most expensive 3 series is more expensive than the cheapest 5 series. The cars basically up sell themselves. I like the 1 series because isn't a landbarge and reminds me of BMWs better days. For comparison, e30s are pretty much the exact dimensions (+/- a few inches) and I think it's about the biggest car I'd ever want to own. It's still not a very good looking car, but I'd have a 128. Straight six with 230hp/200ft-lbs is pretty nice. Of course I'd be one of the jerks who gets it with the Sport Package and nothing else. It's too bad canada sucks for new car prices. Probably be 40k+ just to get a decent 128 out the door. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 23:21
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Crustashio posted:I like the 1 series because isn't a landbarge and reminds me of BMWs better days. For comparison, e30s are pretty much the exact dimensions (+/- a few inches) and I think it's about the biggest car I'd ever want to own. Save your money and buy an outgoing 330i. Compared to a 1 series, the sedan is only 4 inches longer and equal in height and width (1 series is actually a bit larger there). They are the same weight and have similar power. Coupe is a bit bigger than the sedan but trivially. The e36/e46 are pretty tiny on the outside - smaller than a Civic.
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Jan 8, 2010 01:11
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Jorsh posted:wicked sweet stance bro ynotony posted:BMW is introducing adaptive stance control in 2012. Now my car won't look like a pussy when it is parked on a hill. ab0z posted:Can you turn it off to manually control your stance? (only if you're a qualified hard parker, not advocating it for inexperienced owners) These gentlemen are alluding to the negative connotation of the term "stance." The term is associated with people who are more interested in how a car looks in a parking lot with $200 of wax and tire shine on it. Those people are frowned upon by those of us who prefer to spend our money on functional parts, which may (as a side effect) improve our car's stance. See, hella flush tires and slammed suspensions are, done correctly, performance modifications. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jan 8, 2010 |
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Jan 8, 2010 03:44
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So, I was using the torque wrench to tighten down the bolts on my valve cover gasket tonight and... well. This happened to a few of them. Yes, I double-checked the settings on the torque wrench. Looks like a few of the bolts were just really oxidized, because not all of them did this. Will most hardware or autoparts stores have these, or will I need to special order them? Good thing I don't need my car for anything more than fun. If I need to special-order them, what the hell are they called? (E36 M3)
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Jan 8, 2010 08:35
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Many e30s (unless you're buying a 316/318) will have the 15" BBS basketweaves running 205/50 15s or something around that size. I don't know about M20 cars (sixes), but if you buy an -is, the sump is already low. I still have stock springs in front and using 45 section tyres in front (they were half the price, what can I say) I have to use a bit of care. I understand you're trying _not_ to reduce ride height overall, I'm saying you need to be very careful with these cars. Also at the risk of stating the obvious, e30s genuinely don't need anything larger than the original optional 15"s unless seriously modified. Remember these cars are ~300kg lighter than an E36/46. You're just adding unsprung weight, increasing the tire bill and asking for a bad experience with potholes and tramlining. But I know for some people it's a case of "what price hellaflush". Lower springs do work with the correct rates, but if you go too low, IIRC, the rear geometry goes all to gently caress. +1 on modifying your driveway! Casper 29 posted:I am looking at picking up an E30 fairly soon but I don't like the look of the stock ride height. I would love to lower it but the sidewalk leading into my driveway is an issue.
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Jan 8, 2010 08:49
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Kenshin posted:So, I was using the torque wrench to tighten down the bolts on my valve cover gasket tonight and... well. This happened to a few of them. Yes, I double-checked the settings on the torque wrench. Looks like a few of the bolts were just really oxidized, because not all of them did this. Special Order, find the part # from: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Coupe/USA/M3_3.2-S52/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/engine/cylinder_head/ or http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Coupe/USA/M3_3.2-S52/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/engine/cylinder_head_cover/ then go to https://www.rmeuropean.com put the part # in and order however many you need.
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Jan 8, 2010 17:01
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Special Order, find the part # from:
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Jan 8, 2010 17:39
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Try pelican parts...BavAuto sucks.
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Jan 8, 2010 18:05
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Kenshin posted:Huh. They don't have the Valve Cover Stud. (11 12 1 718 856) Bavarian Autosport does though--are they good? If you only need a few you might try your local BMW dealer, prepare to laugh at how much it costs, though. Edit: Or cry.
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Jan 8, 2010 20:14
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:If you only need a few you might try your local BMW dealer, prepare to laugh at how much it costs, though.
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Jan 8, 2010 20:16
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:If you only need a few you might try your local BMW dealer, prepare to laugh at how much it costs, though. Usually it just makes you cry. I think they wanted 20 bucks for enough M10/M12 locknuts to put my drivetrain back together. If I order anything over 100 bucks it's cheaper to get it shipped overnight to canada and pay the duties then to pay the 500% dealer markup.
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Jan 8, 2010 22:52
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Casper 29 posted:I am looking at picking up an E30 fairly soon but I don't like the look of the stock ride height. I would love to lower it but the sidewalk leading into my driveway is an issue. Body kit? Certain 325es have them, there's other options. Depending on the year you buy, could be a basic bolt on minus the color. It's a fun little project I'm doing personally.  Click here for the full 926x552 image.
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Jan 8, 2010 23:02
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fartingfool posted:Body kit? Certain 325es have them, there's other options. Depending on the year you buy, could be a basic bolt on minus the color. It's a fun little project I'm doing personally. Is that an M-tech 1 kit, or a knockoff? Edit: I have a slightly lowered e30 with a very low s50 oil pan forward of the front wheels and a skid plate a good quarter inch under the pan- I don't rub on speed bumps or my steeply angled ramp into my garage. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jan 9, 2010 |
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Jan 9, 2010 01:26
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fartingfool posted:Body kit? Certain 325es have them, there's other options. Depending on the year you buy, could be a basic bolt on minus the color. It's a fun little project I'm doing personally. I would still end up scraping or shattering the body kit on the sidewalk.
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Jan 9, 2010 05:58
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Casper 29 posted:I would still end up scraping or shattering the body kit on the sidewalk. My 318IS is lowered about an inch (bilstein sports and HR sports). The only thing I worry about is the oil pan hanging down so low. Even so, I have been cruising through the Wisconsin winter without much issue. I have even gotten into some deeper snow that I was worried about, but made it through no problem, my front splitter was just a hair above the snow line. My car had blown stock shocks when I got it. I put on the bilsteins before I got the springs and saw that E30s actually ride quite high from the factory. Looked like I had a lift kit on the front wheels almost. I am not saying you would not have issues with your driveway, but, unless you lower it like in fartingfool's picture, I am not sure it would be so bad. EDIT: peterjmatt posted:Is that an M-tech 1 kit, or a knockoff? How does that skid plate work for you? I have been thinking about picking one up. On an M42, the drain plug is on the front of the oil pan, does the skid plate block access to it on yours? Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jan 9, 2010 |
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Jan 9, 2010 17:49
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Dyscrasia posted:
I bought a plate from here: http://www.raceskids.com/joomla/ and I'm very happy with the product. It has a hole in the plate to accommodate the drain plug and it's tucked about as close to the oil pan as possible. It requires some drilling in the radiator support, but it was a fairly easy and quick install. Definitely worth it for some peace of mind. Oil pans are expensive.
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Jan 9, 2010 18:12
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I have one of those skid plates, they work great.
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Jan 9, 2010 20:07
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This is a crosspost from the stupid questions thread, as I did not see the BMW specific thread here. Did my power steering pump die on me? I drive a 2003 BMW 330i (E46?) and today coming out of my driveway to go to work I noticed I really had to pull on the steering wheel to prevent myself from going onto the lawn of the person across the street. I really had to give it on every sharp turn, but when I let go of the wheel to drive straight, the wheels reverted straight like normal - I didn't have to crank the steering wheel back to its regular position. The steering did not ease up any towards the end of both getting to and coming home from work, which at first I thought might have happened after the car had warmed up a bit. I didn't see any fluid underneath of my car in the garage when I got home.
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Jan 11, 2010 05:59
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If you don't have power steering then it's very possible the pump is shelled. The wheels should self-center while moving without power steering as a result of the design of the suspension geometry. Is there fluid in the system? Did you hear a loud growling/whining noise during cold starts recently? If the fluid level is ok then it could be the rack or a restriction in the system, but the majority of the time when you completely lose power assist it's due to a bad pump on the e46. VVV Edit: That's too bad... pumps are very expensive. It's an easy do-it-yourself job though. And while you should check the belts, there's no way your alternator belt broke/slipped off without you noticing. Your car would overheat quickly and the battery light would be on. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Jan 11, 2010 |
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Jan 11, 2010 07:15
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I checked the fluid and it was fine. And is still the colour it should be. No strange noises, either.
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Jan 11, 2010 07:17
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Yep, that's power steering all right. Is there fluid in the reservoir? The belt is probably OK (or you'd have a bunch of lit idiot lights on the dash) but check that too. E46 power steering hoses like to leak as the age, so there's a pretty good chance that you've been slowly losing fluid for a while (not fast enough to notice) and today was the day the fluid level got too low to allow the system to work. If the belt and fluid level are OK, you've got a problem with the pump or steering rack.
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Jan 11, 2010 07:17
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Lowclock posted:I put a thin even layer of RTV with my fingers on every mating surface when I did mine and it doesn't leak a bit. Sounds like it could help. This is how I did it except when I was done it looked like a smurf exploded in my engine bay.
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Jan 11, 2010 08:58
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Am having some issues with the E21 that seem to be getting worse as it gets colder. A month or so ago while driving home the temp gauge got towards the hot end, was able to keep it under 3/4 by idling at 2.5-3k at lights (no electric fan). After it cooled down I checked the cooland level and it was low so I topped it off and the problem went away. Last week driving into work it did the same thing and was again low on coolant. I wasn't sure when/where I was loosing coolant until I walked out the other day and there was a huge puddle under the car. Looks like it is coming out while the car is parked but not right away because I hadn't noticed it before. The car has no overflow tank so once it leaks once it just gets worse and worse until it needs a refil. I'm trying to find an overflow tank that will work as well as some place to mount it. Want to flush the system this weekend and trying to decide which parts I should look at replacing in the coolant system. Will try to get under the car tonight and make sure it isn't leaking from somewhere other than the overflow tube. Trying to figure out what parts from http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2933&mospid=47175&btnr=11_0644&hg=11&fg=35 I should order. Thinking the issue is related to either #7 (Temp Switch) or #8 (Thermostat). Haven't dealt with cooling issues on cars before so kind of just going by what I've read. Leaning towards the Thermostat because while it does eventually warm up it usually doesn't really blow hot air, just slightly warm air. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 11, 2010 |
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Jan 11, 2010 15:45
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MoonDog posted:This is a crosspost from the stupid questions thread, as I did not see the BMW specific thread here. Had the same thing happen to my E46 2 months ago, got a new power steering pump (rage-inducing expensive) and right as rain.
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Jan 12, 2010 20:25
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I recently took off the 19" CSL wheels for 18" wheels with Blizzak LM-60. (02 M3) (18x8 , 18x9). I would have just bought spare CSL wheels and put 19" Blizzak on them but they would not have fit with the drop I have on the car. Plus a smaller wheel is better in the snow. The front looks great but the rear fender flares really need help getting filled in. 18x9 in the rear is way too small. Would running a spacer in the rear be possible to help give the car a nice stance again? I know it is only the winter so should I just suck it up? I'm not a fan of running them. I have them on a drag car and I still hate dealing with them. 
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 11:45
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I'm getting sick of my leaking power steering rack in my track car. Anyone have experience replacing power steering lines care to share any advice/DIYs you used? The total for all three lines looks like ~$200, that's: 32 41 1 138 419 - Power Steering Hose; Low Pressure Hose from Reservoir to Power Steering Pump - $22 32 41 1 141 714 - Power Steering Hose; Steering Rack to Reservoir with Cooling Coil - $70 32 41 1 141 953 - Power Steering Hose; Steering Rack to Power Steering Pump - $90 Are there any other parts I need, or anything else I should do while I'm there? Should I replace just the one leaking part, or all three? Edit: adding the crush washers for the banjo bolts, 4x each of these parts: 32 41 1 093 597 - A16X22-CUSN 32 41 1 093 596 - A14X20-CUSN Shipped Total from Autohaus AZ: $183.72 + tax I'm skipping the reservoir, I just can't see how that part can wear. Jorsh, any particular reason to replace it? Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 17:58
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Sterndotstern posted:I'm getting sick of my leaking power steering rack in my track car. Do them all. Do the reservoir too. Don't forget new crush washers for the banjo bolts. On my E30 replacing all that was pretty easy, although I had to get into some creative arm positions to get the hoses on the rack. I also wound up having to bend the metal part of the high pressure hose I got a few degrees to avoid rubbing the steering knuckle.
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Jan 13, 2010 18:06
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Sterndotstern posted:I'm getting sick of my leaking power steering rack in my track car. I just noticed a puddle under my car this past weekend. At first I thought it was just oil leaking from the front timing cover because the gasket is 100% shot, but when I wiped it up it was red. E36: The car that keeps giving. Here's to hoping the rack is hosed and I have to upgrade to a Z3 rack.
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Jan 13, 2010 18:16
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My E36 had a pretty good power steering leak when I got it and my first thought was to replace all the lines too. On the advice from someone in this thread, however, I found some PS fluid with stop leak in it and it really helps a lot. What was once about a once-a-week fill of about half the reservoir has turned in to a once-a-month minor topoff. I haven't bought any fluid since October, I'd say. Maybe September. So unless things really take a dump, I'll just stick with using that fluid, because the fix doesn't make any sense at all, economically.
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Jan 13, 2010 18:32
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McMadCow posted:My E36 had a pretty good power steering leak when I got it and my first thought was to replace all the lines too. On the advice from someone in this thread, however, I found some PS fluid with stop leak in it and it really helps a lot. What was once about a once-a-week fill of about half the reservoir has turned in to a once-a-month minor topoff. I haven't bought any fluid since October, I'd say. Maybe September. So unless things really take a dump, I'll just stick with using that fluid, because the fix doesn't make any sense at all, economically. Who the gently caress in this thread advised you use stop-leak so we can single them out and beat the poo poo out of them?
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Jan 13, 2010 18:35
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McMadCow posted:...because the fix doesn't make any sense at all, economically. Depends. On the track, knowingly driving a leaky car can have very profound financial implications indeed, both for you and for the guys behind you.
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Jan 13, 2010 18:46
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Does anyone have experience with the R5/FCX3-16 code check/reset tool? I'm looking for a way to read error codes without paying the dealer $100 every time something comes up. I'm getting a bit sick of the service message staying on when I do an oil change. http://www.bimmerzone.com/resettool.htm
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Jan 13, 2010 20:08
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OrangeFurious posted:Does anyone have experience with the R5/FCX3-16 code check/reset tool? I'm looking for a way to read error codes without paying the dealer $100 every time something comes up. I'm getting a bit sick of the service message staying on when I do an oil change. I've got one, used it a few times but so far not for CELs (that didn't solve themselves anyway). It's really handy, I keep mine in the glove box. You might also consider a more generic OBDII reader, although it won't be able to pinpoint problems as easy. But you'll be able to use it on other cars (as long as they're OBDII).
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Jan 13, 2010 20:16
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OrangeFurious posted:Does anyone have experience with the R5/FCX3-16 code check/reset tool? I'm looking for a way to read error codes without paying the dealer $100 every time something comes up. I'm getting a bit sick of the service message staying on when I do an oil change. I use mine -- no complaints, works as advertised. I've looked up many a CEL from it, because I always take it with me when I check out a prospective car purchase. It takes about 2 minutes to pull codes and can save hundreds or thousands in repairs.
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Jan 13, 2010 20:18
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Jorsh posted:Who the gently caress in this thread advised you use stop-leak so we can single them out and beat the poo poo out of them? Well if it makes you feel any better, they said it was pretty much the only system they would ever use it in. v  vEDIT:  OH poo poo!!! It was our illustrious OP! From Page 96: miklm posted:They all leak. 3s, and probably other BMWs, are notorious for PS leaks. If its a few drops, don't even bother, you might just make it worse. If you're using a quart a week, then look into it. Try some stop leak PS fluid first - PS fluid is about the only thing I'm ok with using stop leak in... McMadCow fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 20:23
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revmoo posted:Anyone have a decent pictoral on cleaning the ICV for the M50? All the guides I find online are for the 4-cyl or don't have pics. Bumpy bump. someone answer this please!
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Jan 13, 2010 21:13
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