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Sponge! posted:I wouldn't think less of you for installing an electric heater in it instead of replacing the heater core... That's most likely what I'd do, not even gonna think about dealing with the heater core  Hopefully a simple thermostat replacement will take care of it. The reason I didn't suspect the heater core is because the heat works completely fine once the engine gets up to its operating temp, it just takes forever to warm up. I just wait for the temp gauge to get a little below 210, and then when I turn on the fan it's blowing warm air. If the core was gummed up, it seems like I'd have bad heat performance altogether. I love my XJ, but finances permitting, I'd like to get a new Wrangler within a few years. It's pretty fun to drive, but I just prefer the look and capability of the Wrangler. I can just imagine driving to the beach in the summer with the top off  . My XJ actually has numerous minor problems but the heat one is the worst. Power side mirrors adjustment has never worked for as long as I can remember. Passenger power window switches work intermittently, but the driver's side master controls always work. Rear hatch struts don't hold it open anymore. Driver's side door lost the door brake and it won't stay open either. Here's a pic of the XJ to go with all those  :
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Jan 6, 2010 23:21
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SentinelXS posted:My XJ actually has numerous minor problems but the heat one is the worst. Power side mirrors adjustment has never worked for as long as I can remember. Passenger power window switches work intermittently, but the driver's side master controls always work. Rear hatch struts don't hold it open anymore. Driver's side door lost the door brake and it won't stay open either. Are you sure this post isn't about my XJ? I have the exact same problems.
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Jan 6, 2010 23:25
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Two quick questions for my 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4Dr 4x4 with no mods that I know about : 1. Headlights. Mine are terrible and it's dark up here in AK for a good chunk of the time in the winter, so the brighter and crisper the light the better. I was looking for replacement bulbs and came to this site and it lists a bunch. Beisdes the wattage of item 2 (Vision X 9006) and 3 (Vision X 9005), is there a difference? Will they fit? Will one get me pulled over for pissing off oncoming vehicles? I cannot find the OEM part number for just the bulb to save my life. 2. There is this random switch to the right of the steering wheel on the dashboard below the instrument cluster, just above where they black dash meets the tan plastic. It doesn't seem to do anything. Any idea? No pic due to camera broken. My Jeep on a clean day when not going on the beach or driving on abandoned roads or trails  Click here for the full 1404x1121 image. Thanks, AI
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Jan 7, 2010 00:30
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:Two quick questions for my 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4Dr 4x4 with no mods that I know about : As for the switch, have you located both your rear defroster and your 4-way/hazard switches elsewhere? If so, my best guess is a switch from a previous owner for plow or trailer brake controls. Can you post a pic?
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Jan 7, 2010 00:42
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Rhyno posted:Are you sure this post isn't about my XJ? I have the exact same problems.  Electrical problems seem to be a feature of Jeeps. The electrical system in mine has always been a constant game. When I start it in the morning, I look around at the indicator lamps on all the switches to see what's going to work that particular day. Sometimes the passenger power window switches come back to life, but only briefly. If I ever fall off a bridge into a river, things aren't looking good for the passengers. The failing hatch struts is common for all older SUV's, happened to a friend's Ford Explorer and he keeps a wooden pole in the back labeled "Explorer Hatch Prop". I may adopt that solution.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:10
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I'm also displeased with the brightness of the headlights on my XJ; thanks for the link! It is not the wiper, defrost, or 4 way. It looks like it belongs and isn't some random tacked on item. My Jeep does not have fog lights and it does not have an impact on the aftermarket engine block heater. The headlights on my 1991 Explorer were better than my current ones. This illustration is the best I can do for now w/o my camera.  Click here for the full 1213x953 image.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:13
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SentinelXS posted:
My 2000 XJ has a busted Window Lock switch on the driver cluster. Everything always works for the driver but all passenger doors usually don't work. It's annoying, but expensive to deal with. Hatch struts are inexpensive and easy to replace.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:14
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fordham posted:Hatch struts are inexpensive and easy to replace. I just ordered hatch struts for my ZJ from Rockauto, they're only like $12 apiece. Don't know why I waited this long to replace them. I'm also replacing the rear main seal to hopefully fix my oil leak. If it's not the rear seal, it's the oil filter adapter plate that tends to warp and leak on the 5.2L.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:36
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:1. Headlights. Mine are terrible and it's dark up here in AK for a good chunk of the time in the winter, so the brighter and crisper the light the better. I was looking for replacement bulbs and came to this site and it lists a bunch. Beisdes the wattage of item 2 (Vision X 9006) and 3 (Vision X 9005), is there a difference? Will they fit? Will one get me pulled over for pissing off oncoming vehicles? I cannot find the OEM part number for just the bulb to save my life. Factory XJ lights are 200mm Sealed beam bulbs, The lense, reflector and light are one big peice. None of those lights in that link will work with an XJ. I have Autopal e-code h4 conversion headlights in mine, HUGE improvement over stock sealed beam bulbs. I just ordered an upgraded harness to feed the lights directly from the battery, it should make a slight improvement as well. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=906034&highlight=autopal fordham posted:My 2000 XJ has a busted Window Lock switch on the driver cluster. Everything always works for the driver but all passenger doors usually don't work. It's annoying, but expensive to deal with. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-window-swich-not-working-5442/ only takes a paperclip to fix. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 08:32
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Veeb0rg posted:Factory XJ lights are 200mm Sealed beam bulbs, The lense, reflector and light are one big peice. None of those lights in that link will work with an XJ. Well, at least I don't feel as stupid for not being able to find the OEM part for the bulb. The pics look awesome and a 300% improvement from the lovely light I'm getting. Where did you get yours and at what cost? I live off the road system and can't exactly have them ordered to AutoZone for pick up. Thanks for the help. e: There's all these stupid kids waiting for the bus on my road that hangout on or near the road in the dark when I drive to work and I can barely see them. Scares the hell out of me and I want to make sure I can see them from further than 10 feet away. So getting new lights is really important. I Drink Stove Oil fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 09:14
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:Well, at least I don't feel as stupid for not being able to find the OEM part for the bulb. The pics look awesome and a 300% improvement from the lovely light I'm getting. Where did you get yours and at what cost? I live off the road system and can't exactly have them ordered to AutoZone for pick up. Autopal e-code H4 Lights http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200m...sQ5fAccessories Heavy Duty Harness http://www.eautoworks.com/product-eAutoWorkscom-189849.htm
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Jan 7, 2010 09:42
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Veeb0rg posted:Autopal e-code H4 Lights Awesome. I can do w/o the harness and will order tomorrow. Since I'm not hauling rear end on the Autobahn, an upgraded bulb won't really do much and will likely fry or melt my wiring, correct? Thanks again for your help.
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Jan 7, 2010 09:54
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:Awesome. I can do w/o the harness and will order tomorrow. Since I'm not hauling rear end on the Autobahn, an upgraded bulb won't really do much and will likely fry or melt my wiring, correct? yeah, a higher wattage bulb will melt/fry/eat small children and other wise cause havok. As long as you stick with the "stock" wattage bulbs you'll be fine. I've been running the autopal bulbs on the factory harness for a while now with no issues.
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Jan 7, 2010 10:05
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Veeb0rg posted:only takes a paperclip to fix. Sweet! I've been thinking taking the whole door apart just really isn't worth it, but that's an easy fix.
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Jan 7, 2010 20:38
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Veeb0rg posted:http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-window-swich-not-working-5442/ Thanks, I might try this. Simple fixes are the best, my parents previously owned the XJ and I can't believe they paid to have the power windows fixed several times 
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Jan 7, 2010 23:21
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My 2000 XJ is at 170,000 miles.. the battery just died while on vacation (was 5 years old, had to go sometime) and I just got the front brakes done. Now in the mornings I go to start my car and all my dash lights turn on when I turn the key but nothing else. I have to usually hold in the brake or just keep trying until the engine starts right up.. no clue what the hell is doing that. Also this morning I start the car and notice my brake pedal goes right to the floor. I check my brake fluid and it is just about empty so I add some and that does nothing. Taking it to the shop where I had the brakes done but it is going to snow tonight.. uhg snow travel with very weak brakes.. argggggg. My brake light is on on the dash.. any ideas? I am thinking the master cylinder but I just got that replaced when I got the car, five years ago.. And for the windows not working on the passenger doors I found a fix where I had to bridge two wires.. haven't had a problem with that since. I'll see if I can find the thread.
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Jan 8, 2010 00:50
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:
Jims Creek?
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Jan 8, 2010 01:57
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Sorry I've been AWOL - Just got back from a 2000 mile roadtrip from the SF Bay Area up to Portland and Seattle. All in all the Jeep ran great, I noticed the "bumping when turning" thing a few times, but I haven't changed any of the fluids yet, so what do you expect. Speaking of fluids, it seems that me purchasing my fluids sparked some debate about prices and where to purchase. Yea, I was a bit shocked by the price of some of the Mopar poo poo, but I was hoping to do the fluid changes before I went on the road trip and I knew for sure the dealer would have what I needed. I followed the part numbers and goodies on http://www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm for reference. Now that I know that some of this stuff is available cheaper, elsewhere, that will certainly help. For the time being, I'm willing to shell out a few extra bucks to get this thing to a point where I know when it was last serviced, etc. Onto the bad... 2000 miles of the Jeep being a little too small has turned into a big case of "holy gently caress my knee hurts" - I'm starting to come to the realization that I made a giant mistake in buying this and that I may have to trade it in sometime in the near future for something larger. So far, a Toyota FJ and Xterra come to mind, but ive never been keen on Xterras and the FJ seems rather quirky. Also, to add to my HVAC issues, I notice that every once in a while, my AC randomly kicks on.
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Jan 8, 2010 04:47
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Polish posted:My 2000 XJ is at 170,000 miles.. the battery just died while on vacation (was 5 years old, had to go sometime) and I just got the front brakes done. Now in the mornings I go to start my car and all my dash lights turn on when I turn the key but nothing else. I have to usually hold in the brake or just keep trying until the engine starts right up.. no clue what the hell is doing that. Also this morning I start the car and notice my brake pedal goes right to the floor. I check my brake fluid and it is just about empty so I add some and that does nothing. It sounds like you've got a leak in your brake's somewhere. Check for puddles near the tires or check the back side of the tires for "wetness" The starter thing sounds like either the starter is going bad, the ignition switch is going bad or the Neutral Saftey Switch is going bad. Next time you go to start it and it doesn't want to start try putting it in Neurtal and then try to start it.
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Jan 8, 2010 06:10
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Dividend Special posted:Jims Creek? Nah, I'm way out in Bristol Bay. Never heard of Jim's Creek. e: love the username. I Drink Stove Oil fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Jan 8, 2010 |
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Jan 8, 2010 06:16
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:Headlights ... Just so you are aware: Just about anything you do that increases the brightness of your headlights will lessen the life of them. Why are you not considering auxiliary driving lights ? They double your available light in intensity, range or a mix of the two. They install with less effort than a new headlight harness, are cheaper in the long run and add utility.
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Jan 8, 2010 21:32
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SinJin posted:Just so you are aware: I just want to replace my current headlights with something that works. Not looking for any fog lamps or a light bar or anything else that makes my Jeep stand out. The more poo poo I throw on a vehicle, the more poo poo there is to wrong. I'm not going to upgrade the wiring harness. Just a simple swap. I'm not a very good Jeep owner, I know.
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Jan 8, 2010 23:09
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I saw something horrifying today. While I was driving home I heard loud bass which I assumed was coming from the usual ghetto-mobile, but it was actually coming from a ghetto'd-out ZJ! I wish I took a picture of it, but it'd probably make you guys cry. A black ZJ with overly tinted windows, fake air vent stickers everywhere (on the doors even), fake gold trim, custom rims, thumping subwoofers in the trunk, the whole deal.  In other news, the weekend is here, so it's time to work on all the stuff I've been putting off. Going to get new hatch struts, look into my heating problem mentioned earlier, and possibly get a new stereo. Only reason I want a new stereo is because the stock unit's cassette tape player breaks during the Winter (I use a tape adapter to play my iPod through the car stereo).
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Jan 8, 2010 23:32
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What issues should I be looking for in cherokees of 1998-2000 vintage? Heres an example of one im looking at:http://orlando.craigslist.org/ctd/1537716673.html
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Jan 9, 2010 07:02
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SentinelXS posted:I saw something horrifying today. While I was driving home I heard loud bass which I assumed was coming from the usual ghetto-mobile, but it was actually coming from a ghetto'd-out ZJ! I wish I took a picture of it, but it'd probably make you guys cry. A black ZJ with overly tinted windows, fake air vent stickers everywhere (on the doors even), fake gold trim, custom rims, thumping subwoofers in the trunk, the whole deal. Could've been worse; I saw a Rubicon done up like that a while back.  e:  heh herbaceous backson fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jan 9, 2010 |
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Jan 9, 2010 15:13
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sw0cb posted:What issues should I be looking for in cherokees of 1998-2000 vintage? That's a bit too much money for that many miles. I would want to know if the cat was ever replaced on that one, that could be coming up. Rear main seal is likely to be leaking a bit but I'm not sure how you easily check for that and they usually leak a little for a long time before becoming a serious problem. There's a lot of things that can start to fail at 175k miles, though the engine is probably OK if it sounds good.
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Jan 9, 2010 20:04
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fordham posted:That's a bit too much money for that many miles. Yeah, I ended up with a 2000 Sport 4x4 with 150k on it for 3 grand. Everything seems to be in order except for some minor surface rust on the rear axle and leaf springs. What should i hit first as far as maintence goes?
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Jan 10, 2010 00:52
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sw0cb posted:Yeah, I ended up with a 2000 Sport 4x4 with 150k on it for 3 grand. Everything seems to be in order except for some minor surface rust on the rear axle and leaf springs. What should i hit first as far as maintence goes? If you have no records you should change every drop of oil in the thing. Engine Transmission Front Diff Rear Diff Transfer Case Use only Mopar in the automatic tranny! It's expensive but necessary Not sure about the transfer case, but I used mopar there too. I drain and fill my transmission every 30k. At 90k I had it flushed and the filter changed out, pan resealed with silicon (not a pre-formed gasket - those tend to have issues). This advice is from a Jeep mechanic for >20 years (and he owns a '91 XJ himself). When I do the full tranny service I had them do the diffs + transfer case too. Does anyone ever change their power steering fluid?
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Jan 10, 2010 01:15
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Well, I've narrowed down the crappy heating in my XJ to a gummed up heater core. I let the engine idle and get to operating temp, and the heat only got slightly warm. The only reason I was getting decent heat last week was because I had been driving and reaching higher RPM's. I also felt the hoses going into the heater core, and one of them seemed colder than the other. I'm praying that a simple flush will alleviate the problem. If not, 
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Jan 12, 2010 01:20
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The fuel gauge in my CJ doesn't work. I'm not surprised, but thinking back a few months when I first bought the Jeep it would go to full. After tearing into the gauge and seeing its burnt up, it seems my temp gauge may be in the same boat. Both gauges work as they temp gets higher, or the fuel level lower the resistance lowers. A short will then cause the gauge to burn out, putting me in my current situation. My temp gauge goes up to hot as soon as the engine starts, which would be another sign there is a short somewhere. From here, do I replace the OEM gauge with another crappy one likely to break or go aftermarket and add another hole in the dash. The old fuel gauge will just always sit at empty.
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Jan 12, 2010 07:09
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Rolled up behind this guy today.  Click here for the full 1536x2048 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Yup. That is a homemade Wrangler top.
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Jan 12, 2010 07:19
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Wow, that is actually pretty cool looking for what it is. Much better than that goddamn loving lowered YJ earlier. I want to stomp on that guy's nuts for about 15 or 20 minutes. Speaking of the lowered YJ -- how the hell did they even do that? What's with the camber in the back? Did they convert it to IRS with no 4WD or some poo poo?
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Jan 12, 2010 09:19
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fordham posted:
Why is this necessary? Dexron III works just fine. ATF4+ in the transfer case works fine too. Why pay extra for the mopar name when there's things out there that works just as well, if not better?
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Jan 12, 2010 09:37
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Dividend Special posted:Why is this necessary? Dexron III works just fine. I've heard from a bunch of people that the AW4 doesn't like some brands of tranny fluid, so go with Mopar to be safe.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:29
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Dividend Special posted:Why is this necessary? Dexron III works just fine. Everything I've ever read has people swearing up one side and down the other that if you don't run ATF+4 in your tranny, you'll gently caress it up. And I don't mean  on the internet, I mean Jeep-smart people on the Jeep forums.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:42
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Doctor Zero posted:Everything I've ever read has people swearing up one side and down the other that if you don't run ATF+4 in your tranny, you'll gently caress it up.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:54
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Doctor Zero posted:Everything I've ever read has people swearing up one side and down the other that if you don't run ATF+4 in your tranny, you'll gently caress it up. The Cherokee doesn't run the god awful A604. The AW-4 automatic that should be behind that engine likes Dex/Merc just fine. You might be thinking of the Grand Cherokee, which had their TorqueFlite-derived four-speeds made all loving sensitive and require ATF+4.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:54
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trouser chili posted:The Cherokee doesn't run the god awful A604. The AW-4 automatic that should be behind that engine likes Dex/Merc just fine. You might be thinking of the Grand Cherokee, which had their TorqueFlite-derived four-speeds made all loving sensitive and require ATF+4. Ah yes. I lost track of the conversation. Sorry. v  v
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Jan 12, 2010 17:35
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I may have been confusing the two then. I used to have a GC and have heard for a while to only use Mopar ATF in Jeeps period. And why the hell didn't they use the AW4 in the GCs (except for that one time in ~'93 when a drunk assembly line worker stuck a few in by mistake)?
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Jan 12, 2010 18:56
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fordham posted:
The AW4 is a pretty good transmission, but perhaps a little undersized for the larger Grand Cherokee, especially when paired up with the larger v8 engines that were available in that platform. Chryco took their excellent, but outdated TorqueFlite and created 4-speed overdrive versions. These are the 42RE (NOT to be confused with the Ultradrive-derived 42RLE) and the 46RE in the Grand Cherokee. The 46RE is actually a pretty drat good transmission, it's basically a 727 with an extra gear.
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Jan 12, 2010 19:28
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