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wormil posted:I also have always considered oak uninteresting but lately I've been thinking of building something from white oak. Nearly everything I build is either out of oak or cherry, so I've seen a LOT of oak. You can find some beautiful grain in it, but you've got to look for it. I've got an old workbench that I've turned into my "interesting wood" storage so I've got lots of scraps that I'm keeping for picture frames/boxes/etc. It's funny, because when I was growing up, oak was scarce and we had plenty of ash, so Dad would always use the ash since it was so plentiful (and similar in grain and weight to oak). Now, with the ash borer, I use a lot more oak. I like to save the ash for special projects I know will be around forever because sooner or later you won't be able to get it any more. Speaking of building router tables, I think that's going to be my next project. It'll be my first attempt at cabinetmaking, so we'll see how it goes.
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Jan 7, 2010 00:07
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Anyone got an ideas on using bar clamps that are 6" long on a 8" wide box? I bought the wrong size and can't return them 
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Jan 7, 2010 02:26
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Continuing my earlier post, I finished one of the two endtables that I've been working on for the past month - the second one only needs the top to be stained, so then I'll have a matching pair. It's the first thing I've made completely by myself (aside from some tips with staining), and now I'm hooked. They look pretty close to my original design, but ended up becoming much more intricate - I had originally planned to use some hand made ceramic tiles as the top, which didn't happen at all. I also ended up removing the divider between the two drawers and the top of the table after seeing how much wood I had to work with to make a matching pair, which ended up being quite a lot. The top is made from alternating pieces of mahogany, walnut, hickory, and cherry, the body is red oak with maple drawer fronts. I found the drawer pulls on a clearance table at a local furniture store after nearly gagging at the price of solid bronze pulls. I've developed a hatred for 2.5" pin nailers, destroyed at least two of my favorite t-shirts, and inhaled a metric ton of sawdust. All in all I'm really happy, and I'm no longer using a 1950's era Army box turned on it's side as a nightstand.             
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Jan 7, 2010 03:11
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MarshallX posted:Anyone got an ideas on using bar clamps that are 6" long on a 8" wide box? I bought the wrong size and can't return them I just finished watching a wood whisperer episode where he talks about hooking two bar clamps to one another (about 6:00 in) to glue up something longer than their capacity but didn't demonstrate, and I'll be goddamned if I can figure out how you would go about doing that and still get the clamps to hook over the edge of what you're trying to glue.
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Jan 7, 2010 05:36
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Comedy answer: Weld the bar clamps together. Hook the 2 fixed ends together, put a piece of wood between them and the workpiece, and tighten the 2 screw ends on the workpiece perhaps?
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Jan 7, 2010 05:49
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DJJustice posted:Those look loving nice. Excellent job. On the white oak thing. I don't know, it may be because I've simply never used it and so it's sort of "exotic" to me in that respect. It seemed to sand nicer. No super hard knots surround by super soft wood. It was harder to route but at the same time I had a lot less chip or tear out problems, except on the end grain as per usual. Also, when I applied the teak oil I used on the chair it just looked...Nice. I suppose it may be the fact I'm always drawn more to the natural coloration in wood, and furniture you usually see for sale is always dyed and colored up. I've made 5 of those Adirondack chairs in cedar, and while they all looked nice and blew any store bought one out of the water in terms of sturdiness AND looks, this last oak one is another step up in aesthetics in my opinion. People I've showed it to and made the chairs for in the past agree. Also I didn't hack my lungs out for 3 days after working it, like with cedar even wearing dust masks. Flame and curly maple are among my favorite woods, though I can't afford to buy them often or much of them when I do. They suck to work with though. Lee Valley finally shipped my Veritas scraper set last night, guess I won't be getting that till next week. Sucks. But...I did get a few new toys from Amazon today: 
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Jan 7, 2010 21:54
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DJJustice posted:That is awesome. Question on router bits.. do you guys just buy single bits and small packs ( like what you just posted Chaotic ) so you only are buying what you need, or a big set? I've been thinking about getting a big not-crazy-expensive kit to see what I use the most, then buy the high quality ones. Or would it be smarter to just start with high quality bits from the get go? I was thinking something like this to start: http://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Tool-YTRB100-Carbide-100-Pieces/dp/B001CE7JIY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262902647&sr=8-7
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Jan 7, 2010 23:19
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dv6speed posted:Comedy answer: Weld the bar clamps together. I still don't get how the tail ends of the clamps are going to get down over the workpiece unless they wind up angled in two directions, which seems suboptimal. -Or maybe if the workpiece is hollow, which may work in the case of a box. I was going to take a look at my own cheap set of clamps last night but it was just too cold to get out into the garage.
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Jan 8, 2010 00:16
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Carta posted:Question on router bits.. do you guys just buy single bits and small packs ( like what you just posted Chaotic ) so you only are buying what you need, or a big set? Get 1/2 inch shank bits if your router can handle them. I got a 10 bit set from Woodcraft when it was on sale last fall for $50 and have been pretty happy with it. It has most of the bits I use and they seem to be decent quality. The rest of the bits I have I just buy as I need them. You don't need a ton of bits to make interesting profiles, there's a good article from The Woodsmith Shop here: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/207/17profiles_3bits.pdf Edit: I agree with ChaoticSeven's list below as far as the most useful bits you can have. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jan 8, 2010 |
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Jan 8, 2010 01:37
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Carta posted:Question on router bits.. do you guys just buy single bits and small packs ( like what you just posted Chaotic ) so you only are buying what you need, or a big set? Based on my experience so far, if you can, just buy the good ones first. What I didn't have the benefit of knowing a couple years ago was: Which bits would be the workhorses. Now, I've discovered which ones are used all the drat time. Roundovers Chamfer Rabbeting bit set Straight, even more so if you need to dado with the router. I haven't yet, will have to in the next few days which is why you see a couple straight bits there in the picture. Pattern/Template Those are the super useful/needed ones to me. I'm sure everyone has a couple more they'd throw in there, or would need for a certain project. For the out of the blue oddball bit, maybe that Yukon set would work. But I have to tell you from experience the Yukon/Skill/Harbor Freight crap doesn't cut long before it starts burning and tearing out. Also, it never cuts as well as a Freud or Whiteside bit. Ever. So, I'd recommend picking up some Freud or Whiteside bits in the aforementioned flavors with 1/2" shanks if you just want to get a few you know you'll be using.
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Jan 8, 2010 01:42
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How do you feel about Amana? I've just been buying bits as-needed and have ended up with a couple of those.
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Jan 8, 2010 04:37
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The regular Amana industrial bits are I think on par with Freud (not the quadra cut though) but the Amana Timberlines are budget bits.
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Jan 8, 2010 04:44
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Huh, I'll have to see what I ended up with.
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Jan 8, 2010 05:10
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I've been working on a new guitar build. I am planning on doing a big update to my last build thread I had in here. Thought you guys might want a sneak peek. This is the rough neck blank 5 piece lamination maple/bubinga/maple/bubinga/maple  I ripped it down to 7/8" for a neck blank Made up a sled for the table saw to cut a scarf joint for joining the headstock on   Glued the scarf joint together  It was a bitch and a half to tighten the clamps down without the joint sliding apart or out of alignment.  Here's where we sit now, some "ears" glued on for the headstock sides, the body it is going on is a flying V style. The outline here is just a rough tracing of a template. I'll cut it close on the bandsaw and then use a router bit to take it up close to the template.  Back of the neck still really rough, it will all go away when I go to carve it.  Showing the scarf joint from the side. Wheeeeee!
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Jan 8, 2010 06:06
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ChaoticSeven posted:
The router I got for Christmas has a 1/4" collet, but I think I read in the manual about an adapter. Thanks for the info though, I think the rabbiting set will be first since most the plans I have down of future things involve that.
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Jan 8, 2010 11:50
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Catenoid posted:I can't draw anything, but I was thinking a mollified crescent or section of an annulus. Corner desks look ghastly. Just curious, are there super-advanced yet detailed plans for crazy works like this? I'd like to see all the steps that go into making something this complicated because my feeble brain can't comprehend what is going on. I spent a few hours trying to make a passable dovetail with a saw that bends and some nice chisels, and I have a much deeper appreciation for fine woodworking (or at least fine jigs and routers)
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Jan 12, 2010 02:24
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What is the best method to glue two panels together to have one wide? (ie: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22517467@N06/4258416630/in/set-72157623170270530/ ) Is there a joint that is used along with the glue, or is it literally just glue to pieces and clamp them. I've started making actual written/drawn plans for future things unlike just winging it on my dresser, and having one wide board will simplify everything. The router I was given for Christmas isn't anything too special but it will be better than what I had before nonetheless. I plan on keeping this router for hand held duty and buying a Milwaukee for dedicated table use down the road. I'm going to buy this ( http://tinyurl.com/yzxttpx in 1/4 or 1/2 shank flavors once I figure out if what I read in the manual was correct) for starters, which should come in by the time I am done with my dresser. And ChaoticSeven, congrats on the success of your wine tilts in SA-Mart.. those are badass.
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Jan 12, 2010 17:51
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One option is a biscuit joiner (a.k.a. plate joiner). It cuts a gouge into matching edges of the boards to be joined. You then add a little glue (along the entire edge) and stick a small biscuit into the gouge, along with some more glue. The biscuit expands to fill in the space, and creates for a super strong weld between the two boards. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner
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Jan 12, 2010 18:08
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Alternatively it is possible to join the boards with pocket screws (Kreg makes a great line, http://kregtool.com), however the biggest downside is that you'll have to decide which side is being shown before you do your final sanding as the pocket screws will show. I think biscuits are the best option, or, if you're feeling cheap, drill holes in the edges and put dowels in place. Not the greatest, but definitely better than edge-gluing.
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Jan 12, 2010 19:12
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I have to admit, purchasing a biscuit joiner was a great investment. I may tend to over-use it a bit, but it sure does make for nice strong invisible joins. I don't regret it one bit.
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Jan 12, 2010 19:26
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I am currently building speakers, as per the thread in the AV forum. 3 of my speaker boxes are teetering instead of flat. Is there an easier way to sand them to make sure they are flat or should I rebuild them?
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Jan 12, 2010 19:29
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Biscuits, dominoes and dowels do nothing to add to strength on edge to edge glueups. They only assist with alignment so you don't have to sand the resulting panels flat nearly as much. If you don't have a bunch of clamps then pocket screws can help because they act as clamps, pulling the two glued edges tight together. Edge to edge joins with modern glues are stronger than the wood. The wood breaks and tears apart before the joint. I love the Kreg K3 master kit, simple and nice.
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Jan 12, 2010 22:20
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sparticus posted:I am currently building speakers, as per the thread in the AV forum. 3 of my speaker boxes are teetering instead of flat. Is there an easier way to sand them to make sure they are flat or should I rebuild them? You can get a full sheet of sandpaper and push/pull the bottom of the box back and forth across it until it doesn't rock anymore.
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Jan 13, 2010 00:51
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If I were trying to mate two pieces of wood length wise, I'd use a finger joint: Bits aren't too expensive either.
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Jan 13, 2010 01:36
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ChaoticSeven is right, when gluing up panels (side grain to side grain) nothing more is needed than glue and clamps. Having said that, you will find a million uses for a biscuit joiner or Kreg kit, two of the best things I've ever bought.
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Jan 13, 2010 08:09
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Kreg jig is definitely on the list of things to buy. When I made my GIRLFRIEND her nightstand I used a lot of pocket screws just by estimating with a counter sink.. I can't imagine how awesome it would be with an actual jig. Thanks again.
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Jan 13, 2010 14:05
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I was lucky enough to get a kreg kit for Christmas. My next project on the list is an 8-seat poker table. I have a hunch I'll be making good use of that thing very soon.  On that note: I'm going to need to cut 1-3/4" (diameter) trenches for poker chips. Is there a router bit I can get that'll do both sides of the cut in one pass on a solid piece of wood, or do I need to get, say, a 7/8" cove and then do two passes, one for each side, and then sandwich them together? Also, I haven't checked at Lowe's and Home Depot, but there's a local woodsmith store, called The Woodsmith Store, of course (they're awesome in most regards) and they're selling an Amana 7/8" cove for $134. That seems outrageous unless that particular bit is super-amazing-awesome-wow. Someone here earlier made the claim the Amana was generally so-so, and I have a hunch I could get a similar bit from Home Depot or Lowe's for a fraction of the price...but I would also assume a fraction of the quality. If Amana was actually so-so, wouldn't they be priced a little closer? Or is there some line of Amana that's actually awesome? Or is a 7/8" cove actually just an expensive bit? [edit] Upon re-reading, it sounds like I misread the thing about Amana. Still, $134? Worth it? Is this a bit I will some day hand down to a child? [/edit] Just trying to figure things out here.  [fake edit] Oh! One more question. I have no trouble designing/building the poker table surface, that's no biggie. What I don't know how to do is build the chassis that will mount it to a single leg in the middle. Should I just go to some furniture stores and look at the underside of some tables to figure it out, or is there a standard design I should follow, or something? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 17:11
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Bad Munki posted:I was lucky enough to get a kreg kit for Christmas. My next project on the list is an 8-seat poker table. I have a hunch I'll be making good use of that thing very soon. No, the cove bit isn't worth it. I don't know why they'd have that price on it, that's getting close to raised panel door set territory. I'll have to think about the poker chip thing. As for attaching the top, if the substrate of your tabletop is ply or MDF, you can just use pocket screws to do it. If it's solid wood, well, you can still use pocket screws if you wallow out the holes a bit and don't tighten them down super tight. It'll have room to move if it wants. You can also use figure eight tabletop clips sold for this purpose. Or make some L shaped blocks out of wood to do it. Finished a bench.    
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Jan 13, 2010 21:47
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ChaoticSeven posted:
WOW nice. Where does an average joe source hunks of wood like that?
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Jan 13, 2010 23:42
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My first woodworking project, complete! My wife wanted a shelf above the laundry and all I previously knew how to do was rip a slab of plywood and put it on lovely brackets. This shelf still has the plywood and brackets, but it looks a hell of a lot nicer even though it has shoddy dovetails and questionable construction. Ta da 
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Jan 14, 2010 04:23
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This pales in comparison to most of the projects in this thread but this is the first woodworking project I've done since high school. My girlfriend has a rustic theme going in her bedroom, so I gathered up some barnwood from her grandfather's barn that was falling down and built a nightstand for her out of it. This was also my first time using a biscuit jointer. I picked up a cheap one at harbor freight, and I was very impressed. I'd like to get a table saw now and try a few more projects, it sure helps pass the time during the winter.  Click here for the full 600x800 image.  Click here for the full 600x800 image.
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Jan 14, 2010 16:57
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Insofar as my previous question about router bits and poker chip gouges: I know they must make something like what I'm after, since I've seen such shapes bored out of single-piece mancala boards. On the other hand, I think I'll just go with cutting each side and then sandwiching the halves together. This way, I can do some neat things like put a stripe of padauk or something similar alone the middle of the trench. A light color wood for the racetrack with a strip of something pretty like padauk would be hot. I'll likely do two trenches in front of each player, so maybe padauk in one and something else in the other. Zebrawood would be cool, but expensive. Maybe something else. Suggestions? Needs to be fairly hard so it doesn't get too beat up. [ninja edit] Just realized that if one were careful about depth and such, it'd be possible to use a cove bit and run your piece along it vertically, so you cut one half of the trench, and then the other half. This is 90° to my normal thinking, but I have a hunch it'd work. Still like the idea of the stripes, though.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:58
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Bad Munki posted:Insofar as my previous question about router bits and poker chip gouges: I know they must make something like what I'm after, since I've seen such shapes bored out of single-piece mancala boards. How about this one? 1 3/4" core box bit, 1/2" shank, $27. Or, if you're a masochist, build yourself a core box plane to cut the grooves by hand. I saw one being used on that Woodwright's Shop show on PBS, they're pretty nifty. I can't seem to find many for sale though, and those that are for sale are ungodly expensive (like, $700+ kind of expensive). EDIT: If you're worried about the bit quality, there are a bunch of reviews on MLCS here. Looks like they're pretty drat good for the money. Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 14, 2010 |
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Jan 14, 2010 20:18
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Ah, yes, that's exactly what I was after. I was actually coming here to post a picture showing essentially what I'm after, but that answers the question. I'll post the picture anyhow, though:
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Jan 14, 2010 20:48
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Go easy on me, this is the first thing I've ever built. Still missing hardware, and the door cover for the top shelf (need to get a hinge). All that's left is to stain and urethane it. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, especially for my first time. 
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Jan 15, 2010 00:10
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Cool, what did you do for drawer runners? Wooden slides?Cobalt60 posted:WOW nice. Where does an average joe source hunks of wood like that? The guy who asked me to make it had them already. Cedar is pretty common down here. Also on the clamp extending thing: 
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Jan 15, 2010 05:00
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How do you cut very long, slight angles in stock? I mean, there's a 90-degree crosscut, and anything from -45° to +45° is easy with either a chop or a table saw. But recently, I was working on framing some stuff and needed a 45° angle after joining, which means 22.5...erm, 22.5 from 0, 0 being parallel to the length of the stock. I've never seen a chop saw that'll go that far, and that little sliding fency deal you use with a table saw usually stops at 45 as well. How do you do the cuts like that? For instance, how would you go about cutting a very slight taper into a table leg? For the frame I was making, I ended up cross-cutting the piece at 90°, then placing it 90° to the fence on the chop saw and using a speed square to make sure it was actually perpendicular, and then setting the saw to 22.5 from 90 instead of 22.5 from 0. This worked for the most part, but the cut was a little off, and my fingers were definitely in "the red zone." I still have them all, but would rather avoid such activities in the future. P.S. this was in the field, as it were, so my tool options were somewhat limited. tl;dr: tell me how to make long tapered cuts without threatening the well-being of my fingers, i.e. cut a 4' 1x3 from corner to corner.
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Jan 15, 2010 06:20
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Bad Munki posted:How do you cut very long, slight angles in stock? I mean, there's a 90-degree crosscut, and anything from -45° to +45° is easy with either a chop or a table saw. But recently, I was working on framing some stuff and needed a 45° angle after joining, which means 22.5...erm, 22.5 from 0, 0 being parallel to the length of the stock. I've never seen a chop saw that'll go that far, and that little sliding fency deal you use with a table saw usually stops at 45 as well. How do you do the cuts like that? http://www.runnerduck.com/taper_sled/taper_sled.htm
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Jan 15, 2010 06:33
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ChaoticSeven posted:http://www.runnerduck.com/taper_sled/taper_sled.htm Huh. Cool. Thanks for that
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Jan 15, 2010 07:28
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I thought about making a new thread for this, but figured I'd ask here first. Where do you guys get your lumber? I'm at a small arts school in Westchester county NY, and the closest lumberyard is an hour's drive away. I don't even want huge stuff to begin with, more just what I could use for projects under 2'x2'x2' in total size. I'm mostly looking for walnut, maple, and cherry varieties, though that's only because I've worked with them before - I'd take most any hardwood to expand my experiences. I guess I'm looking for where could I find 4/4 or 5/4 in 2-3' lengths for cheap. Online maybe? Wall lumber had some nice looking packages.
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Jan 16, 2010 08:54
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