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I've been eyeing used Imprezas online, and since heated seats, mirrors, etc. sound fantastic this time of year (live in Chicagoland and have no garage), I've been looking at the Impreza Outback Sport (which has all of that kind of thing standard). As far as I can tell, the differences between an Outback Sport and an Impreza Premium/Special Edition are: two-tone paint scheme, included roof rack, no moon roof, and a slightly raised suspension. Is there anything I'm missing, or any reason I might not want the Outback Sport (assuming I don't care that much about a moon roof)? I've found a several used 2008 - 2009 Impreza Outback Sports, along with other Imprezas, on local dealer's websites with less than 11,000 miles on them. That seems odd to me - were '08-'09s problematic cars in some way? Otherwise these nearly new cars seems like a good buy.
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Jan 13, 2010 07:24
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8ender posted:I put pinstripes on mine What causes that pattern?
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Jan 13, 2010 08:27
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ScaryFast posted:more likely to get speeding tickets. Unless you trade in your eyes and brain to get the turbo, I really don't think this is a problem...
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Jan 13, 2010 09:30
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Got a 98 subaru impreza brighton here, and my rear windshield wiper fluid doesnt come out anymore. A few months ago it was very weak and would take a few seconds to squirt out a bit (with lots of noise) and now it just makes some noise and nothing comes out. Anyway I can fix this myself? Really its not that important but its nice to have.
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Jan 13, 2010 11:11
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CharlesM posted:What causes that pattern? Driving on two lane county roads really fast and having big trucks passing the other way hit you with a blast of slushy spray I think.
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Jan 13, 2010 12:50
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Does anyone have the specs on how thick a rotor needs to be to be reused for an 05 wrx? I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. I just went to the dealer and the claimed I needed new rotors (at 58xxx miles and my first pad change, rotors have not been turned yet). I had them do the work but I kept my old rotors. If they are within spec, I am going to go complain.
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Jan 13, 2010 17:41
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Had a fairly major issue with my 2005 Forester XT tonight. I was nearly home after running some errands and noticed at a stop light that it was idling really, really rough. I put it in neutral and gave it some gas to get the revs up, and after a little bit of "chugging" it started to rev and acted somewhat normal. I got nearly home and had to stop to wait for oncoming traffic so I could turn left - I had been keeping the revs up when stopped to keep it from stalling, but this time it didn't work and I eventually stalled. I couldn't get it restarted, so I hit the four ways and sat there blocking traffic while I tried to restart it. I finally was able to get it to restart, was able to make the left into my complex, and it stalled immediately upon getting there. It wouldn't restart, so I put it in neutral and pushed it into a parking space. When I got back into the car to put it back in park, I tried to start it and it fired right up as if nothing was wrong. The CEL is on and the cruise light is flashing. I didn't try to start it up to move it to my parking space as I was afraid it'd just stall on me and I'd end up pushing it back into the spot. I'm fairly boned here since this is my only vehicle. I don't want to drive it to have the code pulled since I don't want to end up stranded somewhere. Any ideas? Fuel filter maybe? I had the low fuel light and put about 13 gallons in it this morning - is it possible I got some bad fuel? I've driven about 25 miles since I fueled up today. Edit: Looks like it could be the idle air control valve too - found a post on NASIOC on cleaning it so I might try that. If it is the IACV, would I be able to make the trip out to my folks' place (with a nice heated garage and plenty of tools) without much of an issue? It's 90 miles, mostly freeway driving. Double Edit: Just got to my folks' place and hooked it up to Dad's OBD-II scanner, here are the two codes I got: P1544: High exhaust temperature detected P0345: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2) When it started hard on me the one day last month, one of the suggestions I read was to replace the camshaft position sensors, the TCV, and the crank sensor. I replaced the TCV a couple weeks ago so I'm leaning towards it being the CPS all along. As far as the P1544 error code, would that be because I may have flooded it trying to get it started when it stalled in the street? I'm going to keep the Forester here and borrow Dad's car until the weekend. I should be able to get the sensors I need from Napa and I'll replace everything this weekend. On the off chance I can only get one sensor, which is bank 2? Is it the left or the right side of the engine? LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Jan 14, 2010 |
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Jan 14, 2010 00:20
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I would be leaning more toward a connector being unplugged.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:58
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jamal posted:I would be leaning more toward a connector being unplugged. If a connector was unplugged, would it even run at all? After it stalled and I parked it, I was able to start it up and drive it around to my parking spot about an hour later. I then drove it 90 miles without an issue, which is where I sit now.
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Jan 14, 2010 12:25
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Rally Armor mud flaps ordered for my 2010 Impreza. Got approved for financing last night, now I just wait for an estimated delivery date.
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Jan 14, 2010 19:12
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LordOfThePants posted:If a connector was unplugged, would it even run at all? After it stalled and I parked it, I was able to start it up and drive it around to my parking spot about an hour later. I then drove it 90 miles without an issue, which is where I sit now. I've had cars do strange things because a cam or crank sensor plug was a little bit loose. One car would run great for awhile, not throw codes, and then suddenly start to sputter and misfire but only under a lot of load and after a few minutes of driving. Turned out the crank sensor connector was loose.
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Jan 14, 2010 19:29
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jamal posted:I've had cars do strange things because a cam or crank sensor plug was a little bit loose. One car would run great for awhile, not throw codes, and then suddenly start to sputter and misfire but only under a lot of load and after a few minutes of driving. Turned out the crank sensor connector was loose. When I replaced the TCV, I pulled off the connector for the crank position sensor since it was right there and plugged it back in, so I'll have to check that first to see if maybe I didn't get it plugged in very well. It didn't look corroded or anything, which is why I unplugged it in the first place. Looks like I'm only going to be able to get one camshaft position sensor since it's special order everywhere and I lucked out on the one I managed to track down. I'm going to plan on testing/replacing the bank 2 sensor, is that on the driver side of the engine?
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Jan 15, 2010 00:15
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bung posted:Whenever I turn the wheels to one extreme or another and back up, sometimes it feels like the cv joints are clunking. I called the Subaru dealer and they told me that there was a TSB about that issue saying that it is the center diff binding up and that it is normal. They said that they'd look at the cv joints at my next service to make sure there is no problem. Does this sound correct or are they just bullshitting me? That sounds a lot like the center diff is acting up, but it couldn't hurt to check the CV joints, since they're much cheaper to fix. I've got an 03 Forester that had the exact same clunking problem after driving at highway speeds for any length of time, and it turned out to be the center diff binding when it warmed up. The problem started when the car was new, but never got any worse over the next 35,000 miles. The dealer I bought it from claimed that the problem was normal or said they couldn't reproduce it, but I'm pretty sure they just didn't want to have to honor the warranty. I finally got sick of the clunking last summer and talked to Subaru about getting a competent dealer to look at the problem, and they agreed to pay for a differential replacement because the previous dealer had clearly screwed up. The mechanic at the dealer said there was visible wear on the center diff from the binding, but that it wasn't in danger of tearing itself apart in the near future. I ended up only spending $40 for a new differential (to get a rental car), but the dealer did tell me that replacing the diff out of warranty would have been somewhere in the $1500-2000 range, depending on exactly what needed to be replaced.
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Jan 15, 2010 03:38
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Its prob the center diff. EDIT: Question, do EJ205 motors use steel or aluminum pistons? AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Jan 15, 2010 |
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Jan 15, 2010 04:52
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swagger like us posted:Got a 98 subaru impreza brighton here, and my rear windshield wiper fluid doesnt come out anymore. A few months ago it was very weak and would take a few seconds to squirt out a bit (with lots of noise) and now it just makes some noise and nothing comes out. Anyway I can fix this myself? Really its not that important but its nice to have. Refill your tank if you haven't.
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Jan 15, 2010 23:39
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Going to test drive an 09-2010 WRX tomorrow. Anything I should look for? What are people's general impressions about it?
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Jan 16, 2010 03:41
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Tatrakrad posted:Going to test drive an 09-2010 WRX tomorrow. Not really. If it is an 09 with a really early build date there is some potential that it is one of the cars with potentially hosed motors, but I'm pretty sure all of them have been fixed or sold.
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Jan 16, 2010 08:01
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I was under the impression most of the reliability kinks were worked out, along with the suspension revision. I'm mostly curious how the ownership experience is. I want something that I can take across the country, haul filming equipment in possibly, with the luxury of having a manual transmission - which puts the Lancer and old Lexus IS station wagon out of the running.
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Jan 16, 2010 08:33
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Tatrakrad posted:I was under the impression most of the reliability kinks were worked out, along with the suspension revision. I've had my 2010 since mid Oct. Aside from a few minor squeaks coming from the plastics in the A pillar, and 5 to 4 downshift being finicky, no major issues... drives great and I'm getting about 26MPG doing 80% highway...
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Jan 16, 2010 09:55
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traumatizedslug posted:I've had my 2010 since mid Oct. Likewise. I've had mine since November, and had no issues, save frustration with the automatic climate control system being too hot for my taste.
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Jan 16, 2010 20:55
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Good to know. Took a test drive today. This car seems perfect, but the 5 doors are hard to find around where I am for some reason. The salesman said last time they got a 5 door WRX in stock it was gone by the next day. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to wait a few months before I can actually purchase one. The navigation option was a bit confusing though, it seems like you can only get it on the WRX premium and STI - but you can get a screen and a better audio system on the regular WRX? I may just opt to get aftermarket nav/audio if I cant make sense of it. It all depends on what I can get when I finally put down the money.
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Jan 16, 2010 21:16
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I decided to repaint my car today as well. Before:   During:   Result:   Much better
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Jan 16, 2010 21:53
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GroceryBagHead posted:I decided to repaint my car today as well.  I cant believe that car looks good on steelies
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Jan 16, 2010 21:56
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ScaryFast posted:The price of a new Subaru Impreza in Canada is insane to begin with, I'm not willing to buy a Turbo, plus I don't want any of the hassles that come along with it. I remember you shopping around sometime when I imported my WRX. Personally I would not get NA Impreza, big difference in my opinion. Cost difference is totally worth it. Sport trim is kinda a waste of money when it's the guts that really matter. There's no hassles about owning a turbo. Maybe slightly higher insurance and more frequent oil changes? Not a big deal. Also try not get extras from the dealer as they will surely rip you off. Get winters from Tires23 or something, you'll get a better deal. Rust protection is another massive rip-off. Just go to Krown and get your car gooped-up with whatever they use. $100, and it lasts for 2 years (they recommend doing it annually). Also do drill, sounds bad, but that's the only way to get oil inside panels (it's all neatly done). Electronic rust protection only works for boats btw.
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Jan 16, 2010 22:04
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For anybody who's dealt with the raw fuel odor at low temps problem (02-03 2.0T), have any of you had any difficulties getting reimbursed if you had the work done prior to the recall? Last winter, I couldn't deal with the headaches anymore, so I had the work done according to the TSB, to the tune of about $600. The work was done by my mechanic, rather than a dealer. I'm fully expecting to get low-balled.
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Jan 17, 2010 04:48
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Computer Opponent posted:For anybody who's dealt with the raw fuel odor at low temps problem (02-03 2.0T), have any of you had any difficulties getting reimbursed if you had the work done prior to the recall? What recall? I didn't hear it get beyond TSB status. Ah, found it. Subaru Recall Campaign WVK-21 NHTSA Recall No. 09V-468 Issued in December. You don't know how happy I am that they are finally taking care of this under a recall (though, it hasn't been quite as bad for me since managed to tighten one of the screws with a long screwdriver.) I can't say I have an answer for your question though. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Jan 17, 2010 |
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Jan 17, 2010 07:57
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bull3964 posted:What recall? I didn't hear it get beyond TSB status. The recall was only issued in about 10 states. A pity it took 6 years from when it was acknowledged in a TSB for it to be considered recall-worthy.
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Jan 17, 2010 16:08
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Computer Opponent posted:The recall was only issued in about 10 states. A pity it took 6 years from when it was acknowledged in a TSB for it to be considered recall-worthy. It's a rolling recall. They are doing 16 states first and then moving on from there due to parts availability.
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Jan 17, 2010 18:50
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bull3964 posted:It's a rolling recall. They are doing 16 states first and then moving on from there due to parts availability. Also because the issues affects cars in cold weather the most. Canada first, then those 16 states, then everyone else.
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Jan 17, 2010 19:03
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8ender posted:Also because the issues affects cars in cold weather the most. Canada first, then those 16 states, then everyone else. Yeah, tell that to me, in SW pa, who has been huffing gas fumes nearly every day for the 3 months. As it get worse, it happens at higher and higher temps. It will happen to me anywhere below 28 now were before it would have to be about 13.
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Jan 17, 2010 19:09
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I just got a flat tire on my Saabaru and I believe it is an indication of a slightly larger issue. On inspecting the tire it looks like the inside side-wall has a groove worn in it where the tire is really thin. I'm guessing when I put it in a ditch last winter the alignment was screwed up enough that it's been rubbing somewhere and the problem didn't really manifest itself until now. I'm guessing this will mean I'll need a whole new set of tires assuming the tire shop doesn't have any used ones with similar treadwear. What are the tires that everyone is always recommending in this thread? I guess if I have to spend the money I was saving for autobody repairs (from the ditch) on my tires and alignment then I might as well get tires that won't send me into a ditch again.
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Jan 20, 2010 07:55
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I haven't owned a Subaru, or a car at all, since I had a '94 Legacy Wagon from '05-'06. I'm thinking about buying a 2008 Subaru Forester X next week and found one with just under 50k miles and an immaculate looking body. Is $16k too much for this car? I've never shopped around for an auto in this price range but I know that I want a Subaru Forester because it's the ideal size for what I'd use it for. I'm going to inspect it really closely next Monday and do a test drive. I'd just like some insight from newer Forester owners regarding the price and anything that I should look for beyond the ordinary. Thanks! Soma Soma Soma fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 20, 2010 08:40
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MMD3 posted:I'm guessing this will mean I'll need a whole new set of tires assuming the tire shop doesn't have any used ones with similar treadwear.
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Jan 20, 2010 08:51
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I got screwed on parking for my new semester, so I was planning on hauling my bike with me to school, problem is it won't fit in the back of my '03 WRX hatchback. Can anyone recommend a solid bike rack for my model year? I keep seeing stuff about Thule racks, but I'd really prefer one that would mount on the back if at all possible.
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Jan 20, 2010 16:40
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SKYMALL SCRILLA posted:I got screwed on parking for my new semester, so I was planning on hauling my bike with me to school, problem is it won't fit in the back of my '03 WRX hatchback. Can anyone recommend a solid bike rack for my model year? I keep seeing stuff about Thule racks, but I'd really prefer one that would mount on the back if at all possible. When I was still cycling, I used this rack from Performance. It was really sturdy and well made. But you will need a receiver hitch to use it.
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Jan 20, 2010 16:48
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I'm looking at a new car in the next 2-3 months and I'm leaning heavily towards a new WRX. I drove one last summer and loved it! I drove it back to back with a standard Impreza and while going from my ~120hp (25yrs ago at least) BMW E30 anything is an upgrade, I did get a little used to driving my brother's E36 M3 and enjoyed the hell out of the speed. I can live with the non-turbo car, but sooner or later I will start wanting to upgrade the power, and it will probably be cheaper in the end just to start with a WRX and leave it alone for a few years (and enjoy the warranty). I can't justify the cost of an STi, but the WRX should be doable! Here's hoping I can find a good deal on one soon!
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Jan 21, 2010 03:12
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So my son has decided to go to tech school to be a mechanic, and being a supportive dad and all that, I've decided to buy a used Subaru block for his 1998 Subaru Impreza RS. The idea is that he can rebuild this one as he figures poo poo out and swap it with the one in his car now. So here is my problem: 2.5 DOHC engines are hard to find. Anyone ever swap a 2.5 DOHC for a newer 2.5 SOHC? Bad idea?
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Jan 21, 2010 05:27
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daslog posted:So here is my problem: 2.5 DOHC engines are hard to find. Anyone ever swap a 2.5 DOHC for a newer 2.5 SOHC? Bad idea? Not a great idea, but it might make things more interesting for your son. A lot of things changed around 2002 for the Impreza, because Subaru switched to a new platform for the Impreza. Do keep in mind that pretty much any DOHC 2.5 engine from about 1997 to 2001 will likely work for your sons Impreza. Check out https://www.car-part.com as a good place to start searching. Also you're a good dad 
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Jan 21, 2010 06:53
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the swap from phase 1 to 2 happened in 99. So the 98 RS has a phase 1 dohc motor, and the 99 has a phase 2 sohc motor. You would be much better off sticking with a phase 1 stuff, but that depends on if you're talking just the shortblock or the whole motor. The shortblock itself will swap in, but trying to get a full phase 2 motor to work would be more involved. The phase 2 shortblock is a bit better though as it uses a longer piston skirt to reduce slap, and has larger bearings. The phase 1 block also requires a thick hg as the pistons protrude slightly from the deck at tdc. So going to a phase 2 block you should use the thin phase 2 gasket (pn ends in 641).
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Jan 21, 2010 07:55
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SKYMALL SCRILLA posted:I got screwed on parking for my new semester, so I was planning on hauling my bike with me to school, problem is it won't fit in the back of my '03 WRX hatchback. Can anyone recommend a solid bike rack for my model year? I keep seeing stuff about Thule racks, but I'd really prefer one that would mount on the back if at all possible. Get a rear hitch rack if it must be on the back.
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Jan 21, 2010 07:56
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