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revmoo posted:Bumpy bump. someone answer this please! Does this help? (I looked for about an hour at home and couldn't find it, I'm glad you reminded me because I had it bookmarked here at work  )
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Jan 13, 2010 23:13
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Yes that does, thanks!
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Jan 13, 2010 23:38
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How dead are the brake pads when the pad wear idiot light comes on? I've known since putting on my winter tires that the brakes would be in need of work soon, but I'm hoping I can put it off until spring when working in an apartment parking lot is a bit more appealing. Along the same lines, any recommendations for what pads to get? I don't think I'll need new rotors, but I'm not against replacing them if there's a tangible performance increase. My driving is mixed city/highway with random hooning about mixed in, so no special high-wear performance parts, but if there's something better than stock but cheaper/same price I'd like to know about it.
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Jan 14, 2010 01:18
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OrangeFurious posted:Does anyone have experience with the R5/FCX3-16 code check/reset tool? I'm looking for a way to read error codes without paying the dealer $100 every time something comes up. I'm getting a bit sick of the service message staying on when I do an oil change. If the service light annoys you, don't pay a dime for it. At least on an E34, it's a matter of short-circuiting two pins in the diagnosis plug for 12 seconds, and bam, all service reset. Service reset tools for those cars are a huge ripoff. It sounds neat for reading codes, though.
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Jan 14, 2010 01:34
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Pilsner posted:If the service light annoys you, don't pay a dime for it. At least on an E34, it's a matter of short-circuiting two pins in the diagnosis plug for 12 seconds, and bam, all service reset. Service reset tools for those cars are a huge ripoff. Yeah, it's really one of those things where you can accomplish as much with a $20 cable and a OBD2 program and a paperclip, but I can see why some people would just rather pay $130 for an all in one unit.
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Jan 14, 2010 01:55
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wolrah posted:How dead are the brake pads when the pad wear idiot light comes on? I've known since putting on my winter tires that the brakes would be in need of work soon, but I'm hoping I can put it off until spring when working in an apartment parking lot is a bit more appealing. The brake lining light comes on when the inner pad of either the LF or RR wheel is at 3mm. The pads don't necessarily wear evenly, so it's possible that some of your pads are thinner than that. I've heard many recommendations for Hawk pads but I haven't used them myself. I usually stick with OEM pads since they have a good balance between noise and performance.
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Jan 14, 2010 01:58
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Just got done installing the DICE Silverline Pro iPod adapter with the spec.dock ashtray mount. I can't believe how well this works. Better than factory options I'm sure. For those of you out there debating if it is worth it you really have nothing to debate. I love how install times say "30min. - 1 hr." Now my garage is definitely equipped well enough to handle almost any car installation so tools are not a problem. 6 hours later it's all done. What the hell. Instructions are never right.  No one ever said you have to make squares fit in circle shaped ares.
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Jan 14, 2010 02:14
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VibrioCholera posted:Just got done installing the DICE Silverline Pro iPod adapter with the spec.dock ashtray mount. I can't believe how well this works. Better than factory options I'm sure. For those of you out there debating if it is worth it you really have nothing to debate. Did you make or follow a DIY?
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Jan 14, 2010 05:44
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Pilsner posted:If the service light annoys you, don't pay a dime for it. At least on an E34, it's a matter of short-circuiting two pins in the diagnosis plug for 12 seconds, and bam, all service reset. Service reset tools for those cars are a huge ripoff. Thanks for the advice (you and others who commented). I'm lookin' to read codes and reset the service light which is why I was looking at this tool. From what I've read the paperclip trick works to reset my E38. On a side note, wtf is with the glove-box handles on these things? I've had the car less than a year and am about to install my third latch. Both of the others broke, seized the glove box, and spilled plastic guts when I tried to open 'em.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:26
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Sterndotstern posted:Did you make or follow a DIY? I installed the same adapter albeit without the ashtray dock. The position of the ashtray vs. armrest wasn't conducive to using my iPhone on my E38. In my case the whole install was about two hours, so I'm guessing most of your hassle came from pulling apart the center console to get to the ashtray.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:28
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wolrah posted:Along the same lines, any recommendations for what pads to get? I don't think I'll need new rotors, but I'm not against replacing them if there's a tangible performance increase. My driving is mixed city/highway with random hooning about mixed in, so no special high-wear performance parts, but if there's something better than stock but cheaper/same price I'd like to know about it. I really like Axxis Ultimate for a street pad. They can often be had for less than the Jurid/Texar OEM pads (which are also just fine). Stick with OEM rotors.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:41
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SlapActionJackson posted:I really like Axxis Ultimate for a street pad. They can often be had for less than the Jurid/Texar OEM pads (which are also just fine). Stick with OEM rotors. Seconding this suggestion, I've had this setup on my car for close to two years and have no complaints.
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Jan 14, 2010 20:59
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Has anyone with the early-style E36 been able to repaint those hideous plastic bumpers? Mine have spots with peeling and blemishes but it seems like paint stripper and a sander would be the wrong course of action on that kind of plastic. Any suggestions?
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Jan 14, 2010 21:57
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What do you guys think of this E30? http://calgary.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1552653515.html The "mystery" problem is a bit daunting, but I really want to get my hands on an E30 or E34, I know I'll be sinking good money into it, but do want do want.
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Jan 14, 2010 22:21
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tesko.pk posted:What do you guys think of this E30? not a bad deal -- you'll certainly learn stuff trying to fix that
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Jan 14, 2010 22:42
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tesko.pk posted:What do you guys think of this E30? For $750 I would buy that in a heartbeat, depending on what the rust situation is at least. It would be nice to know what the actual symptoms of this mystery problem are before buying though.
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Jan 14, 2010 22:49
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McMadCow posted:Has anyone with the early-style E36 been able to repaint those hideous plastic bumpers? Mine have spots with peeling and blemishes but it seems like paint stripper and a sander would be the wrong course of action on that kind of plastic. Any suggestions? Two options: 1) Forever Black -- http://www.amazon.com/Forever-Black-Bumper-Trim-Dye/dp/B000FOIJXQ 2) Heat Gun -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-dtbBzky-s
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Jan 14, 2010 23:26
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Sterndotstern posted:Two options: Thanks for this, but that's not quite what I'm looking for. The bumpers are actually coated with a grey paint. Appologies if I'm being too simple by linking for an example. I'll go on the assumption you don't know about the '92 bumpers.  The grey part isn't faded, it's actually black plastic painted that ugly grey for some reason known only to BMW. The chips in the paint show the black underneath. I want to color match the whole thing to the black of my body, but I want to get rid of- or at least even out- the coating that's on there now. Given that it's over the plastic, however, I'm reluctant to just go at it with paint stripper which would possibly eat it, or a sander which would mar it up.
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Jan 15, 2010 01:09
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Mine are actually painted black. With a brush. I guess the PO did it. It actually looks fine. I'll have to take a picture.
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Jan 15, 2010 01:42
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revmoo posted:Mine are actually painted black. With a brush. I guess the PO did it. It actually looks fine. I'll have to take a picture. With a brush? Wow. So is there any evidence of the old paint coming up or chips and whatnot underneath the new finish? Maybe I'm making too big of a deal about this and I should just have at it with the sander...
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Jan 15, 2010 01:48
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Out with the old: In with the new:  Well, technically I still have the old until I find a buyer. I waited patiently for 6 long months and I finally found one. It is incredible to drive and still looks quite stunning.
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Jan 16, 2010 09:02
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ynotony posted:Out with the old: Where are you and how much do you want for your E36? What interior? Stick? Miles?
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Jan 16, 2010 09:11
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^^I sent you a PM. While on the topic, what do you guys think a 1994 325i, 120k mi, 5-speed, Los Angeles car is worth? It's well maintained with most notably new tires and a new cooling system and service records for the last 40k miles. The interior is in great shape for its age (the back seat is literally flawless) and the exterior is good too except for the dent above the left headlight and small 16 year old wear and tear elements.
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Jan 16, 2010 17:43
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I would say about 3k, maybe a bit more if the interior really is flawless.
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Jan 16, 2010 18:05
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OK I'm expecting in the $3-4k range. The rear really is flawless. The front is not, but I'd say ahead of the curve at least. 
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Jan 16, 2010 19:03
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two_beer_bishes posted:My E30 started overheating last week. Update: I replaced the thermostat with a stock 80*C unit and also replaced the temp gauge sensor. I'm not having any overheat issues as far as I can tell, but the heater hose circled above still doesn't get warm even after 30min of driving. What else could cause this problem?
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Jan 16, 2010 19:31
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ynotony posted:OK I'm expecting in the $3-4k range. This is fair -- I'd advertise at just under $4k and you'll get it sold.
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Jan 16, 2010 20:25
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Wow, pricing on the West Coast loving rules. Not fair. East would expect to pay anywhere from 4500-7000.
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Jan 16, 2010 23:56
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Just did the upper radiator hose on my E36, super easy job. someone had cranked the hose clamp down so far that it sprung a leak. I got tired of topping off coolant, so 12 bucks later it's fixed. Bleeding is easy, I found that as long as you overfill the reservoir to the top and keep squeezing the hose and re-topping off you hardly even have to bleed the system. The hose sucks the coolant right in from a hole at the top of the reservoir. Also, I think those orange/yellow boxes in the engine bay are for the turn signal blinkers. Oh, and on price, I paid 2500$ for a 92 325i with 180k miles and a rough interior. Too much, but it's loving impossible to find 5-speed BMW's within 500 miles of here. revmoo fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jan 17, 2010 |
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Jan 17, 2010 00:07
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These US prices make me cry. I'd be paying 6k+ for an e36 like that one. Or 20k for an e46 330
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Jan 17, 2010 01:36
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Here's something odd, my '92 has one touch up/down window function, where you just press the button for a sec and it runs full up/down. Only thing is this feature wasn't available until '94, according to the Bentley manual in two places.
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Jan 17, 2010 02:22
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revmoo posted:Here's something odd, my '92 has one touch up/down window function, where you just press the button for a sec and it runs full up/down. Only thing is this feature wasn't available until '94, according to the Bentley manual in two places. The manual is correct, someone probably retrofitted your car when the window regulators went out. Oh, and those orange boxes are for the airbag sensors. I think.
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Jan 17, 2010 04:23
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revmoo posted:Just did the upper radiator hose on my E36, super easy job. someone had cranked the hose clamp down so far that it sprung a leak. I got tired of topping off coolant, so 12 bucks later it's fixed. My '92 325i with 180k miles, a rough interior, and a 5 speed was $1750 
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Jan 17, 2010 04:39
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revmoo posted:Here's something odd, my '92 has one touch up/down window function, where you just press the button for a sec and it runs full up/down. Only thing is this feature wasn't available until '94, according to the Bentley manual in two places. My '92 has that as well. I didnt realize it wasn't stock!
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Jan 17, 2010 05:07
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Beach Bum posted:Wow, pricing on the West Coast loving rules. Not fair. East would expect to pay anywhere from 4500-7000. Seriously... I don't even drive regularly and I'd buy something like that for $3k just to have it. Whoever gets that is drat lucky.
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Jan 17, 2010 06:13
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VacaGrande posted:Seriously... I don't even drive regularly and I'd buy something like that for $3k just to have it. Whoever gets that is drat lucky. I visited the Philly area over the holidays and I saw maaybe 1/10th of the bimmers that I see in the Bay Area, if even that. They're way more common out here, which is great for poor slobs like me who happen to want a cool old car.
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Jan 17, 2010 20:41
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On my E36, if I'm checking the oil level and I wipe the stick and insert it and wait 20-30 secs, it shows exactly full. If I wait about 2 minutes the oil is all the way up the stick (to the top of the plastic). What gives? This is on a cold engine btw.
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Jan 18, 2010 17:33
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revmoo posted:On my E36, if I'm checking the oil level and I wipe the stick and insert it and wait 20-30 secs, it shows exactly full. If I wait about 2 minutes the oil is all the way up the stick (to the top of the plastic). What gives? You're supposed to check the level with the engine hot, but after it's been off for 2 minutes. This gives time for all the oil being circulated to find its way back to the sump. Ideally, after waiting 2 minutes, you want the oil to be sitting bang on the top mark.
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Jan 18, 2010 18:14
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I'll give that a shot. I've always checked my cars with a cold engine, though I've never had differing results on a car before either.
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Jan 18, 2010 18:39
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revmoo posted:On my E36, if I'm checking the oil level and I wipe the stick and insert it and wait 20-30 secs, it shows exactly full. If I wait about 2 minutes the oil is all the way up the stick (to the top of the plastic). What gives? Are you checking it with the engine running? I guess that might make it creep up the stick. I check my E34 cold (and with the engine off of couse), it's the only thing gives a common measurement point, since you'll have oil still dripping down on an engine that's just been run. The manual says to either check it cold, or after it's been sitting for a while after being turned off. But still, you might as well check cold. Pull the stick, wipe, insert fully, turn it 180 degrees back and forth for a second, then pull out and check.
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Jan 19, 2010 00:24
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