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Discworld owns. That's all you need to think about those last two pieces.
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Jan 18, 2010 09:36
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Fyrbrand posted:Also here is a new vindicator I finished: This is really sweet. Decals are hateful things, I ended up scraping the ones on my vindicator and razorback off again. I've replaced them with the new metal bits from the Crimson Fists tank emblems pack, these are pretty drat nice, and currently the castings are still very clean with not much filing required.
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Jan 18, 2010 13:56
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thiswayliesmadness posted:Some neat pieces on that site. I'm going to have to grab some of these for some custom conversions. See much orky potential there: The Iron Brotherhood are pretty much Mechanicus Discworld owns. Cohen the Barbarian is a legend in his own, very long, lifetime & had a gang called the Silver Horde, the youngest of which, Boy Willie, was under 80.
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Jan 18, 2010 18:19
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stabbington posted:Discworld owns. That's all you need to think about those last two pieces. I think my inner geek is deeply upset that I haven't actually read any discworld yet. I even wiki'd Cohen last night to understand the deal with our elderly friend. At least I know what to look for next time I visit my friend n' his basement o' books.
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Jan 18, 2010 19:31
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GW has a smallish update with some tyranid conversions. The only interesting one was making a Doom of Malan'tai using the body from one of the old Epic 40,000 Hierodule Bio-Titans. I think it looks good, unfortunately that model looks like it's next to impossible to obtain nowadays.
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Jan 18, 2010 19:43
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God the plastic Gargoyles are awesome. gently caress all mold lines too. I might do some headswaps with a Hormagaunt or two just to mix poo poo up.
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Jan 19, 2010 00:35
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This is up there with the best models Ive ever painted:  
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Jan 19, 2010 01:03
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PaintVagrant posted:This is up there with the best models Ive ever painted: Skaven look so goddamn awesome.
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Jan 19, 2010 01:27
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PV, what is your average time to paint a high-quality model? I know it's based on size, but as an example how long did it take you to paint that? I'm just curious.
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Jan 19, 2010 01:27
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Shallow posted:This is really sweet. Thanks dude. I would kill for a bits pack like that. Someday maybe... 
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Jan 19, 2010 01:29
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PierreTheMime posted:PV, what is your average time to paint a high-quality model? I know it's based on size, but as an example how long did it take you to paint that? I'm just curious. I think I spent like 7 hours on that guy, its hard to judge though because I worked parts of all 3 skaven at the same time to save a little time here and there
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Jan 19, 2010 01:44
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Youve gotta tell me what you did to make the bone look so good. Its awesome 
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Jan 19, 2010 03:07
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I decided to make a simple display board for my army I'll be playing in a tournament next week. I still need to buy something for the sides so it has a lip going all the way around, but I made good progress tonight. Insides of the cut-out holes are messy since I glued sand/ballast down after gluing the top and bottom board pieces together, when I should have kept them separate. The models still fit down inside though.
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Jan 19, 2010 05:08
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I'm totally going to do the same thing some day. What size board is that? The easiest way to to the border is to buy a custom framing kit - you two sets of sides and put those together. Should be less than 30 for all the sides.
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Jan 19, 2010 05:22
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I bought a pack of two Elmers 20x30" foamboard from Walmart. I cut holes in one board then glued them together. The thickness of the board almost perfectly matches the base thickness. It fits my 2250 point army, but barely: I actually thought of getting custom framing stuff, but I'm trying to do this on a tight budget. I might just buy some more foamboard and cut+glue it. It'll make the whole thing light as hell, but easy to damage. I could always go back and redo it when I have more time and money. Edit: In case anyone is wondering, the tournament has a weird tiered structure in 750 pt blocks, where we won't know which of two blocks we'll get for game 2, but must include block 1. Low pts and trying to keep a balance = weird unit choices here and there. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Jan 19, 2010 |
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Jan 19, 2010 05:37
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So. . . I just found pictures of my necrons. . . God I need to thin my paints. Also get a good camera and a light box.
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Jan 19, 2010 05:41
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Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint  Working up the 'skin' on the head to Menoth White Highlight atm. 
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Jan 19, 2010 07:16
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The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint This looks amazing, I love the orange. I might steal your colour scheme for mine 
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Jan 19, 2010 07:57
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The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint Looking pretty good so far.
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Jan 19, 2010 07:59
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Zarkov Cortez posted:This looks amazing, I love the orange. I might steal your colour scheme for mine Same here.
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Jan 19, 2010 08:08
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Yeah, I'm pretty happy with how he's coming out. The camera really doesn't pick up the shading on the orange very well, I need to set up a lightbox. Here's the only model with a similar scheme that I managed to finish from my previous attempt at a nid army, back when the 4e codex was released in '04 I think. I bought a ton of units, managed to paint the tyrant and then my attention wandered and I didn't finish painting any other models. This time I decided to focus a little more on natural colors. I really didn't like the purple shading or the black/red bones that I used on the Tyrant. He's since been stripped and he won't be repainted until after I get the units for my 1000 point list painted.  Ancient Biovore (drill ur barrels) sneaking into the frame. He's one of several relics from my attempt to put together a tyranid army back in 2e. I'm sensing a theme here 
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Jan 19, 2010 08:29
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Alright folks, I need some serious feedback here. This is my first attempt at sculpting. The idea was to add some fur to my old metal hive tyrant in an attempt to make him more ice world-y and have him match the gorgeous carnifex Gross Bug on EW did for me. Does it look like fur? I have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand I'm pleased with my first effort, but on the other hand it is much finer than the fur bug did, and in my opinion looks less realistic. Any suggestions? Does it looks awful? Should I get rid of it and start fresh? E: Well it's a bit hard to make out in the pic, I'll try and reshoot it tomorrow but I'll leave this pic here for now for anyone with keen eyes.
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Jan 19, 2010 10:35
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The legs look fine. I'd make the tail bushier, though.
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Jan 19, 2010 10:57
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The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint You're a much better painter than Paint Vagrant. this is primarily to goad PV into painting a Trygon, but you are damned good as well
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Jan 19, 2010 12:16
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The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint Any chances of a tutorial on how you've done the non-carapace areas once you're finished? 
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Jan 19, 2010 13:06
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The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint I generally don't like anything orange, but that bug looks pretty. I like you focus on the more "natural" colors compared to the red/black/purple of your tyrant with the same orange chitin. Keep it up and show us more! Planning to paint that old rear end biovore? 
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Jan 19, 2010 14:03
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The Saddest Robot posted:Man, my Trygon won't look anywhere near this awesome.
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Jan 19, 2010 15:03
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Fyrbrand posted:Testors actually makes a pretty decent plastic glue with one of those fine detail applicators. I have one and use it regularly. I wish it dried a little quicker, but that's true for all plastic glues I gess. Use the ABS plastic glue. MUCH stronger, and glues almost instantly. Most people like the Testor's stuff, since it allows the figures to be repositioned a bit, but not everyone likes that, I guess.
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Jan 19, 2010 18:01
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landis posted:Actually, that brings up something I've been wondering about off and on. I was trained in my art classes to always mix up the colors you needed when painting, that's the point of having the palette. I.e. for oils I used red, white, black, blue, yellow, and little else; learning to make the colors I wanted. I noticed they've got a billion different colors for miniatures painting. You're referring to the three-stage system, which si what GW, and other companies use so even dum-dum Warhams like us can have decent looking models. If you take you're painting seriously, you'll use multiple in-between coats Foundry have some awesome skin-tone sets, but they also have an expert paint set that includes six paints, rather than the usual three. Whether you use certain paints enough you'd want to make pre-mixes in empty pots, I don't know. There's an old Ogre Kingdoms article, where the guy made pots of his custom paint mix. It was worth it, since the Ogres are mopstly flesh and have large, wide expanses of bare flesh.
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Jan 19, 2010 18:12
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Flying Guillotine posted:Whether you use certain paints enough you'd want to make pre-mixes in empty pots, I don't know. I do make a note of ratios for colours that I'm mixing when painting armies or for a scheme I know I'm going to repeat. Saves mixing up an indeterminate amount but allows you to use your custom mixes as much as you like. Just means mixing the godamn thing every time you want to use it.
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Jan 19, 2010 18:22
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enri posted:Any chances of a tutorial on how you've done the non-carapace areas once you're finished? It's pretty simple (in theory). Prime model. Paint bleached bone, about a 2:3 ratio of water to paint. Make sure to get into the recesses too. Let dry. Apply Gryphonne Sepia wash liberally. Let dry. Mix up some watered down bleached bone, about 1:1 ratio of water to paint or higher. You'll want to cover the raised areas and some of the shallower recesses. Brush technique is important here, it takes a little bit of practice to find out how to get a nice even spread. What I do is dip my brush in the paint, unload some of the water on a napkin (just lay the tip of the brush against it and let the excess water bleed onto the napkin). Then I paint with the tip of the brush, but mentally it's more like you are just spreading the water around rather than laying paint down. The trick to this is that the water will spread the paint around a little bit and even the surface out, removing brush strokes. You do have to watch for the paint to pool in some recesses though, I keep a dry brush nearby to scoop that up. Another thing to watch out for is for the paint in your mixing pallete to begin to dry out, you'll need to add more water when that starts to happen. In that photo I was on my 2nd and final coat of bleached bone. Next I plan to paint with a 50:50 mix of bleached bone/menoth white highlight, thinned down just as much as before. I might stop there if I am satisfied with it, or I might add a final layer of white highlight. Aranan posted:I generally don't like anything orange, but that bug looks pretty. I like you focus on the more "natural" colors compared to the red/black/purple of your tyrant with the same orange chitin. Keep it up and show us more! Planning to paint that old rear end biovore? Of course. I really can't stand the newer biovore models tbh. Every time I see one I think it's this big mishappen  ape smiling at me. The Pyrovore looks great though. I've heard they are redoing the biovore model soon, hopefully it will look more like the pyro. I have a bunch of old models I'm trying to find some use for. I had converted the old screamer killer fex into a dakkafex, I was pondering using the old zoanthrope for the DOOM OF MALAN'TAI but I just can't, he's simply too retarded looking. I have a squad of old warriors - I am contemplating using them as Tyranid Primes but they look kind of dorky too.
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Jan 19, 2010 19:42
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The Saddest Robot posted:Of course. I really can't stand the newer biovore models tbh. Every time I see one I think it's this big mishappen
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Jan 19, 2010 21:02
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The Saddest Robot posted:It's pretty simple (in theory). How about for your carapace 
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Jan 19, 2010 21:44
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The Saddest Robot, good choice moving away from the red and purple on the older model. The darker bone and green looks infinitely better (and of course the paint quality is magnificent). Hope you make good progress and consider a project log on Eternity of War! And uh here's some WIPs.     Bonus Broken Loose Shedinja Doom of Malan'tai. 
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Jan 19, 2010 22:43
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Zarkov Cortez posted:How about for your carapace Carapace was done with Glazing Medium and Flow-Aid. I didn't wet blend since there was so much surface to paint that I was worried that my paints would dry out. And any excuse to play with paint mediums is a good one. On a smaller model I would probably just wet blend.Glazing Medium lets you make the paint more transparent without it breaking apart or being too watery. It's easy to use, just mix it in with your paint until you are satisfied. Flow aid does what it says, it breaks up the surface tension of the paint and makes it flow more easily. If you want speckled dots or patterns on the shell, paint them now, right on the primer. I'd recommend a bestial brown. Base with Blazing Orange, thinned to your preference. I usually do 2:3 water to paint as a standard. It's important to get a nice, even coat here. Sometimes on a base coat I can get away with it being sloppy or splotchy because I plan to wash over it but that doesn't happen here. I had to do around 4 layers because my priming job was inconsistent. On the positive side it helped fill in the seams that I didn't catch with greenstuff. If you painted any patterns on the shell they should still show through.Mix in some yellow, maybe 3:1 of orange to yellow, or alternatively Fiery Orange. Then I formed a glaze with some Glazing Medium and I added some Flow-Aid. I'm not sure what the precise amounts of each that I used, it's sort of an eyeball process. I test it on paper and see it is transparent enough. I brush it on from about the halfway mark on the shell down to the edge. The direction you paint is important because the trailing edge of the brush stroke will have the most paint, the leading edge the least. I do some minor touching up if necessary while it is still fresh. The flow aid makes it a little tacky ( I think I grabbed my undiluted bottle by accident) so once it beings to dry past a certain point you don't want to touch it with your brush or fingers. I let it dry with the edge that is going to be yellow pointing down so gravity will do some of my blending work for me. I let it dry and repeat the process again, with a mix of 1:3 yellow to orange (or Golden Yellow) and start at the 1/4 mark. Starting here I make sure to go around the chips at the edge of the carapace so they will stand out - I don't want the brighter color paint to seep down into them. I want them to remain a nice and bold orange. Then I did it one more time with straight yellow along the bottom edge of the shell. The orange to yellow was nicely shaded except at the very edge was a little sharp so I decided to do striping lines at the edge to break it up. This was just watered down yellow. One side effect of the glazing medium is that the carapace has a glossy sheen on half of it. This isn't a problem for me as I plan on applying a gloss varnish to the carapace. You could likewise hit it with some dullcoat and that should take care of that. It worked very nicely on the large plates but I'm not really satisfied with the results on the smaller pieces like on the scything talons. The blending got a little sloppy near the end of the tail as well due to a lack of a good way to actually reach the plates with my brush. I believe that the striping should help with that though. ---- I started cutting out my Space Hulk Genestealers last night and now I feel compelled to ditch the sand/rocks base (original plan was to have thin rocks angled outwards to give the impression of a crater) and go with a space ship/hulk themed base. I don't think tech is done enough since it's so easy to paint rocks/ground. Plus the idea of a Trygon bursting through the floor of a space station is pretty priceless. I'm not really sure how I would go about doing it though. right now I'm thinking about bent I beams and bent tiles forming a ring around the Trygon. I'm not sure about that, though. If he burst up out of the floor he wouldn't be sitting in the hole, since the hole would have to be big enough and deep enough to accommodate him. But I do want to give some impression that this is what the Trygon did. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Jan 19, 2010 23:07
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Fyrbrand posted:I decided to make a simple display board So did I. Odd. Just mine doesn't have the holes for bases. 
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Jan 19, 2010 23:21
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Can somebody point me to a tutorial for magnetizing the missles on a space marine whrilwind? The only guides I can find are for magnetizing predators.
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Jan 20, 2010 01:20
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CROSSPOSTIN' First Lizardman painted! gently caress, I don't know how you WHFB people do thing umpteen billion times.   
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Jan 20, 2010 01:59
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BuffaloChicken posted:Bonus Broken Loose Shedinja Doom of Malan'tai.
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Jan 20, 2010 02:28
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Feeple posted:CROSSPOSTIN' This looks really good, and my answer to you is that we (I) don't paint individual guys to nearly that standard, I just do them well enough that the blocks of 20 look decent.
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Jan 20, 2010 02:57
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