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bull3964 posted:What recall? I didn't hear it get beyond TSB status. That's weird as my '03 would occasionally smell like gas, but it was in California and not subject to colder weather except for ski trips.
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Jan 21, 2010 10:56
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jamal posted:the swap from phase 1 to 2 happened in 99. So the 98 RS has a phase 1 dohc motor, and the 99 has a phase 2 sohc motor. That's a good start for me, thanks. What if I wanted to add a turbo? 
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Jan 21, 2010 13:12
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$175k STI? Sign me up. Cool car but drat that's a lot of money. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/01/20/prodrive-launches-new-rally-spec-subaru-impreza-n2010/
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Jan 21, 2010 15:20
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daslog posted:That's a good start for me, thanks. What if I wanted to add a turbo?
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Jan 21, 2010 16:37
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cmorrow001 posted:$175k STI? Sign me up. Cool car but drat that's a lot of money. 20 more horsepower than a factory car? Cage, suspension, full race interior? For only $195k? Not a cool car. For an extra ~$155k on top of a stock car, gently caress that thing.
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Jan 21, 2010 16:44
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TurboLuvah posted:20 more horsepower than a factory car? Cage, suspension, full race interior? For only $195k? CARBON FIBER MIRRORS MAN, you're missing the details!
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Jan 21, 2010 17:05
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MMD3 posted:CARBON FIBER MIRRORS MAN, you're missing the details! It's cheaper than the WRC STI was at least. 
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Jan 21, 2010 17:21
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TurboLuvah posted:20 more horsepower than a factory car? Cage, suspension, full race interior? For only $195k? This is a turn-key group N car. Look at the suspension and drivetrain, you can't just buy these parts on ebay. For a fully prepared car with support from prodrive this is a pretty good value.
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Jan 21, 2010 17:26
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daslog posted:That's a good start for me, thanks. What if I wanted to add a turbo? in addition to a motor that comes with one, you need the ecu and engine and chassis wiring harnesses and need to splice it into the rest of the RS harness. I'll be doing at least one of these swaps in the next couple of months. There's a good write-up here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1486051
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Jan 21, 2010 19:15
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I'll be replacing my '02 with a 2010 WRX soon. I'm looking for some fairly basic and cost effective ways to "fix" the main issues with the car (shifting and handling), how does this look for a mod list? Here's what I've come up with through a few days of research. I'm also not interested in power mods. - Kartboy short throw shifter, bushings/mounts front/rear - Redline transmission fluid - Front/rear swaybars (which brands/sizes)? - Strut tower brace - DIY red tail lights
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Jan 21, 2010 21:41
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bigger swaybars and the right alignment are key to making the car handle well. Whiteline 24mm adjustable bars, front camber bolts or slotted struts, and an ALK would be a good start. I'd also highly recommend a downpipe and a good tune. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 22:12
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If I were a prospective buyer, I might prefer to do those things myself after having owned the car for a while. Seems unlikely that you'd be able to get your money's worth by making the car more appealing to the buyer.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:41
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I just want to thank all of you like kimbo and jamal for being so great in this thread especially. Thank you for saving me from having to go to nasioc for anything other than arrangement of local subaru-related events. Thank you moderators (sigtrap  ) for doing actual moderation. If the worst thing I have to deal with around here is a silly avatar, then I'm never changing it.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:50
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kimbo305 posted:If I were a prospective buyer, I might prefer to do those things myself after having owned the car for a while. Seems unlikely that you'd be able to get your money's worth by making the car more appealing to the buyer. I don't think he was talking about his '02, he was talking about what to do to the '10 right off the bat.
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Jan 21, 2010 23:56
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bull3964 posted:I don't think he was talking about his '02, he was talking about what to do to the '10 right off the bat. Oh dooiiii. Explains the tail light comment. ab0z posted:I just want to thank all of you like kimbo and jamal
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Jan 22, 2010 00:00
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does anybody have any experiences with/opinions on the Falken Ziex ZE-912 A friend can get them for me at a wholesale cost and I'm wondering if that's a better route over paying a premium for the Bridgestone RE960 AS's. edit: it's worth mentioning that I live in Portland so half of my annual driving will be in inclement weather with another decent amount of that being in snow when I head to the mountain. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 02:01
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blargle posted:I'll be replacing my '02 with a 2010 WRX soon. I'm looking for some fairly basic and cost effective ways to "fix" the main issues with the car (shifting and handling), how does this look for a mod list? Here's what I've come up with through a few days of research. I'm also not interested in power mods. Is there a writeup around for the DIY red tail lights? I'm also interested in doing this.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:59
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ab0z posted:This is a turn-key group N car. Look at the suspension and drivetrain, you can't just buy these parts on ebay. For a fully prepared car with support from prodrive this is a pretty good value. I still can't get past the mirror tint  On a different topic, how dumb would I be to buy a 97 impreza with three misfiring cylinders?  I haven't looked at it yet, but something tells me the plugs are original. I figure I'll have it compression and leak down tested to make sure it's not something I don't want to deal with (namely HGs, rings, or something worse). Otherwise I'll be thinking plugs, coil pack, injectors, fuel filter, etc.
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Jan 22, 2010 09:08
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Mat_Drinks posted:On a different topic, how dumb would I be to buy a 97 impreza with three misfiring cylinders? Depends on the price, and how comfortable you feel diagnosing and repairing the problem. If the compression test is good and you get a good price, I'd go for it because (clarkson voice) how hard can it be?
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Jan 22, 2010 15:34
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Hey heres an idea posted:Is there a writeup around for the DIY red tail lights? I'm also interested in doing this. Found this on NASIOC - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1820318 Really, really wishing that a dealer near me could get a WRX or STi.
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Jan 22, 2010 15:49
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Hey heres an idea posted:Is there a writeup around for the DIY red tail lights? I'm also interested in doing this. I imagine this guide is very similar to the 2010, if not identical. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1820318
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Jan 22, 2010 17:43
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So the previous owner of my car put a CAI on my 03 WRX. I always planned on reverting it to stock, but never got around to it. I think you can see where this is going. We had a rare heavily rainy day here and I'm pretty positive I sucked up some water. Had a brief stutter of power loss out of nowhere, then felt fine for a few miles. Then came regular stutters, kind of like the lurching you'll feel if you suddenly jump off the gas in 1st gear. Pulled over, and right as I did so got a CEL. Idle was rough. Plugged in my accessport and found that I had misfire codes on all 4 cylinders. Also it stalled very slowly, as in it didn't just turn off all of a second. gently caress. I turned it off and had it towed to a shop. I'm really hoping this isn't catastrophic since it didn't outright blow up on me or cease to function, it just started running like poo poo. I do not want to have to buy a new engine...... mlmp08 fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 22:25
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So it is time for me to replace my 97 Land Rover discovery after 5 years of faithful and wallet raping service. I'm really intrigued by Foresters but I don't know much about them other than they seem to be exactly the right size and shape for what I need. My problem is I live on an Island in AK so our selection sucks and everyone wants to take your first born to sell you a used car here. I found one Forester at the shady and overpriced used dealership in town. It has been sitting on their lot for about a year, if not more. It's a black L or S model, I can't really tell and I didn't look at it that close. It has 120k miles and they want loving $7950 for it. It had alloys, studded snow tires and generally looked pretty solid. The interior was clean but a little sticky in some spots  but nothing that won't clean up with a little armor all and some TLC. It wouldn't even crank due to a dead battery when I looked at it, but they still talked like they wanted me to come in and "get the paperwork started" gently caress them. I did some internet sleuthing and found them valued at anywhere between 3500 and 7000 depending on condition, The engine on this one was filthy, but the oil looked clean. I only noticed one dent in the right side and the interior was dry as the desert, and this is one of the wettest places in North America. I want to print the Edmunds thing I found that lists a super low price and bring it to them. If I can talk them down to like 5500 or 6000 would it be worth it or should I just not even bother going back? My other option is to keep looking on Craigslist etc or maybe ebay. I'd really love a later one but I don't want to spend more than like 8 or 9 thousand as I have 2 cars and 2 motorcycles already. I hate that I can't actually look at stuff before I buy it.Edit: It's an S model so cruise control and cd player, 16" alloys etc. I guess that may raise the blue book to a bit closer to their asking price. I crawled under it on my way home from town today and there's surface rust on the suspension bits and the paint will need attention soon if they don't want to lose the clearcoat. I'm a mechanic so I can do the head gasket change myself, but does anyone have a rough estimate of what it would cost to have it professionally done? If they can't show me proof that it was already done I'm gonna insist they knock that much off the price, plus whatever I can beat them down to. N183CS fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 22:47
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MMD3 posted:does anybody have any experiences with/opinions on the Falken Ziex ZE-912 I guess I'm going with these regardless... $68/tire for these wholesale vs. $130/tire for the Bridgestones... Here's hoping they perform alright in rain and snow.
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Jan 23, 2010 01:57
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mlmp08 posted:So the previous owner of my car put a CAI on my 03 WRX. I always planned on reverting it to stock, but never got around to it. I think you can see where this is going. From what I understand there are quite a few things that can cause cylinder misfire.. It's totally possible water got up into the coil pack, or maybe into a plug if the boot wasn't secured very well. Either way, good luck!
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Jan 23, 2010 02:23
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Does Haynes and Chilton just not make a service/repair manual for my 1998 subaru impreza L sports wagon? I can only find a Haynes and Chilton manual up to 1996, is that the same?
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Jan 23, 2010 04:00
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Mat_Drinks posted:From what I understand there are quite a few things that can cause cylinder misfire.. It's totally possible water got up into the coil pack, or maybe into a plug if the boot wasn't secured very well. Either way, good luck! The shop ran a diagnostic and said they couldn't seem to find anything and they thought I might've sucked up water, but only a small amount which didn't cause anything catastrophic, though water in oil isn't good. I guess I'll find out if it still drives like poo poo tomorrow when I pick it up.
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Jan 23, 2010 05:48
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mlmp08 posted:The shop ran a diagnostic and said they couldn't seem to find anything and they thought I might've sucked up water, but only a small amount which didn't cause anything catastrophic, though water in oil isn't good. Driving a neon beater in the past I was once convinced I sucked up water because of heavy rain only to realize the puddle I hit had just healthily doused the engine bay. Once everything dried off it was back to running like a champ. Well, as much of a champ as a Neon can be.
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Jan 23, 2010 06:05
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MMD3 posted:I guess I'm going with these regardless... $68/tire for these wholesale vs. $130/tire for the Bridgestones... Here's hoping they perform alright in rain and snow. You should look at the reviews on Discounttire.com . It sounds like they may not be as good in snow... Difficult to say without first hand experience though.
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Jan 23, 2010 09:20
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N183CS posted:I'm a mechanic so I can do the head gasket change myself, but does anyone have a rough estimate of what it would cost to have it professionally done? If they can't show me proof that it was already done I'm gonna insist they knock that much off the price, plus whatever I can beat them down to. dealership book time is probably a bit less, but we would charge at least 1500 to pull a motor, tear it down, reassemble, and reinstall. Our builds generally involve the installation of a lot of aftermarket stuff that involves custom fabrication, though. Headgaskets are like $30 each, but if you want to replace all the seals and maintenance items you're looking to spend about $600 in parts.
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Jan 23, 2010 09:52
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CharlesM posted:You should look at the reviews on Discounttire.com . It sounds like they may not be as good in snow... Difficult to say without first hand experience though. yeah, I was reading some reviews that said that... but then I also read some that said they handled fine in snow. hard to know what to believe, I guess I'll just have to be extra careful in the snow. I'm sure anything will be an improvement over the POS general tires that my friend (previous owner) had put on them.
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Jan 23, 2010 11:08
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I'm on my 2nd set of 912s and have a bit of experience with them in the snow. Nothing impressive, but they work just fine for a performance all-season. They're great on dirt, though. I brought a gopro with me to montana and this is about the only video of driving on snow that I took: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S6alwpOMlA jamal fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 17:40
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jamal posted:I'm on my 2nd set of 912s and have a bit of experience with them in the snow. Nothing impressive, but they work just fine for a performance all-season. They're great on dirt, though. I brought a gopro with me to montana and this is about the only video of driving on snow that I took: awesome, thanks for the feedback... I didn't see you go off the road in that clip so looks like they aren't as horrible as people are trying to make them out to be.
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Jan 23, 2010 18:18
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I've been waiting to post in here until I had at least gathered all the parts I wanted to install this spring but screw it Here is my 2007 Spec.B:  Not a recent pic but it's still completely stock except for a CobbAP that's currently running an economy tune for the winter. Also I have my 17" winter tires on right now.. Sitting in my living room I also have this stuff:     Still missing is an exhaust, and I can't find anything used thats going for much less than a new system, so I'm thinking of getting an Agency Power catback system since it's supposed to be 321 SS. I know that UP isnt necessary and will be a huge pain in the rear end to install correctly but it was really cheap. I'm thinking of getting the header powder coated, hoping to get as much life out of it is possible but I'm not sure if powder coating really helps in that regard.. header wrap just traps moisture so I don't want to bother with that. Perrin had a sale over the holidays so I picked up the rear sway bar, lateral links and shortshift kit+bushings for dirt cheap from them. I'm getting there parts-wise, but I still need to get a front 25mm sway bar, the lower a-arm bushings/camber/anti-lift kit, roll-center/bump-steer kit, rear sway bar brackets and end-links all around. Once I have everything I'll probably get a friend who is a mechanic to help install the exhaust parts, flash it with a basic cobb stage2 tune, then drive to a place that can tune it on a dyno and install the K&N intake there, so that it can be tuned as soon as it's installed (I hear these intakes will make the engine run lean). There seem to be quite a few experts in this thread so feel free to chime in with anything obvious that I'm missing or maybe should be doing differently. I know Perrin parts are known to be cheap (I'm definately not going to use their endlinks) but they seem make the best catted downpipe and equal length header that I could find. If all goes well this year, next year a bigger turbo, FMIC and supporting fuel mods (injectors/fuel rail/pump) will hopefully be in the cards Final-Reality fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 20:52
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Final-Reality posted:I've been waiting to post in here until I had at least gathered all the parts I wanted to install this spring but screw it Don't waste your money on an intake. You don't really need endlinks. I have some rear swaybar brakets new in-box (AVO) if you'd like to buy them (I ended up getting the cobb bar which somes with its own), PM me. You don't need a roll center kit as you're not lowering the car. You could get a "performance" alignment, you can get at -1.5 camber out of the stock system. I don't know why you want the rear adjustable link on a stock suspension setup.
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Jan 23, 2010 22:52
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nm posted:You're missing a leakdown before you void your warranty. The warranty was up on this car in 2009, I bought it used and was told it had a 2 year factory warranty until mid-2009. I do plan on lowering the car eventually, I just won't be able to afford a set of KW or RCE coilovers for a while.. I've heard that thick swaybars will break the stock endlinks, so I'm getting a set of these:  They have a lifetime warranty, and are supposedly a lot quieter than perrin or whitelines and last longer. Also I sent a PM about the RSB brackets
Final-Reality fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 23:00
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Final-Reality posted:The warranty was up on this car in 2009, I bought it used and was told it had a 2 year factory warranty until mid-2009. I do plan on lowering the car eventually, I just won't be able to afford a set of KW or RCE coilovers for a while You have a 5yr/60k mi drivetrain warranty. Take it from someone with a piston ring failure, you want to do this now. Also, be very careful who you get th tune from and make sure you get a conservative one. My piston ring failure is a bit of a freak occurrence (though not that much of a freak occurrence), it is pretty common on custom tune cars when you get a bad tuner. The freaky thing is that my car shows no signs of failure except oil consumption, which was actually quite normal (.5qt every 1000mi) until I went stg2. I have cobb sway bars all around, RCE coilovers (which are sweet, though I recommend setting them at the max recommended height and then corner balancing from there), do ~10 track days a year (though this will be down this year as I have a failed piston ring) and probably twice as many auto-xes and have never had a problem. (also Ice racing twice) They were a problem on some sways from OBXTs (they're different underneath), but they haven't really happened on LGTs. nm fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 23:10
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TurboLuvah posted:20 more horsepower than a factory car? Cage, suspension, full race interior? For only $195k? Hate to break it to you but a full blown Group N car at PWRC spec has this... - Six speed dog box made of Prodrive machines unobtainium, worth 30K - BIG PWRC race brake package, worth 20K - Roll cage, which isnt even ones you get from a normal cage builder, material worth is close to 10K, let alone the fabrication time - Carbon fibre interior trims. - SpecC Group N homologation base car - add 20K more to accquisition cost - Wheels are worth 500 each without the rubber - Underbody protection, a mix of urathane, kevlar and aluminium, upwards of 5K (I'm up to 87K worth of equipment so far...) - Horsepower might only be a touch up, but it has a 33mm restrictor so I am staggered they managed that miricle. Torque is closer to 500 Nm and the engine is rebuilt and blueprinted. - Prodrive ECU's / dash and diff control systems. Got a telephone number, that's your price. To develop the tunes for the drivelines and engine costs thousands even with el-cheapo backyarders. This isnt a backyarder,this is the best in the business. So hardware MINIMUM is 10K - Prodrive quality suspension. Think Reiger or Proflex/MCA and then go a step UP. Penske suspensions are piles of poo poo in comparision. This kind of gear begins at 5K a corner, so minimum of 20K - Full Coralba rally computer. 2.5K - And I havent included seats, intercom, harness, hydralic handbrake, spares and tools, jack and stand mount points, painting and the special Group N homologated parts. I'm up to 120K so far and I havent even run into build labor time. If you expect to have Prodrive to build, install and make good all of this for under 20K, you are having yourself on. It is highly unlikely you could build a PWRC car of this level for less than 200K. This is in fact pretty good value for a turnkey car that would be an outright Group N competitor and about right price. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 23:30
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I don't keep up with auto news very closely so perhaps my info is outdated or incorrect: My understanding is that Toyota and Subaru are working together on a RWD coupe - to be badged a Toyota in Japan and a Subaru elsewhere. If this is the case, can someone explain to me the marketing logic that would put a non-AWD Subaru into the US market? It seems like they've spent what, 15 years, building up their reputation for being The All Wheel Drive Brand and they're going to toss that away?
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Jan 24, 2010 06:22
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Cuntpunch posted:I don't keep up with auto news very closely so perhaps my info is outdated or incorrect: My understanding is that Toyota and Subaru are working together on a RWD coupe - to be badged a Toyota in Japan and a Subaru elsewhere. If this is the case, can someone explain to me the marketing logic that would put a non-AWD Subaru into the US market? It seems like they've spent what, 15 years, building up their reputation for being The All Wheel Drive Brand and they're going to toss that away? you can read a bunch of discussion about it here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3208427 I don't see how it would throw away Subaru's reputation. They don't have to market it that hard to get some sales to Initial D fanboys. Liz and Sally are not gonna get all mad at Subaru for putting out a small sporty coupe that isn't AWD.
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Jan 24, 2010 06:30
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