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Gaff Tape posted:I thought about making a new thread for this, but figured I'd ask here first. Where do you guys get your lumber? I'm at a small arts school in Westchester county NY, and the closest lumberyard is an hour's drive away. I don't even want huge stuff to begin with, more just what I could use for projects under 2'x2'x2' in total size. When you buy online you'll usually end up paying more for shipping than the wood unless you order 200-300 BF. You would be a lot better off calling that lumberyard an hour away and asking for prices on species your interested in, and asking if they have shorts for a discounted price. Lot cheaper than ordering online. waffleking posted:This pales in comparison to most of the projects in this thread but this is the first woodworking project I've done since high school. My girlfriend has a rustic theme going in her bedroom, so I gathered up some barnwood from her grandfather's barn that was falling down and built a nightstand for her out of it. Very cool, looks sort of Hobbitey or something. Built a shelf. Walnut and cherry. Can't get good light in here right now, but it only has a one coat of sanding sealer on it anyway. I'll get better photos later sometime.    
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Jan 20, 2010 03:38
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Hey, that's pretty. Good job.  I'm going to be starting a poker table shortly. I'm looking for a wood that'll comprise the majority of the surface. Of course the basic standard is red oak since it's cheap, plentiful, and reasonably hard. I'd like to find something else instead, though. I'd like something medium-ish in brightness, with an interesting grain. The biggest concern is that I don't want to break the bank. As cool as it would be to build the entire thing out of, say, zebrawood, that just ain't gonna happen (I plan on working some in, though...) Any suggestions? Whatever I end up using, I'd like to not stain it, and instead preserve as much of the original color as possible, maybe just oiling it to bring up the contrast a bit.
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Jan 20, 2010 04:04
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Quartersawn white oak.
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Jan 20, 2010 04:18
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This is more of a wood cleaning/restoring question, but hopefully someone can give me some advice. I'm picking up a 40 year old bedroom set on Sunday, and I'd like to give it a good cleaning once I get it home before I go throwing clothes and whatnot in the pieces. The finish is in good condition other than some minor scratches here and there (which I think I can take care of with a wax stick or two). What's the best product to use to clean these pieces off (get rid of the old wax/dirt/grime/whatever), and what should I put on them to keep them protected? I've never had wood furniture before, so I'm clueless as to what works and what doesn't. Also, can I use the same cleaner on the inside of the drawers to get rid of the "old people" smell?
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Jan 20, 2010 19:55
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orange oil cleans pretty well and it smells nice when it's done. Also it does a good job of really making the grain of the wood pop
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Jan 21, 2010 02:31
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I suppose I might as well share my latest Christmas project. It always starts so simply, last year I built a bed so this year I needed matching bedside tables and once again Pottery Barn provided the inspiration. I like the clean lines of the Farmhouse table at left, but the heft of the Sumatra at right. What I didn't like was the $400 price tag for just one of those drat things. Furniture is expensive as hell--and Pottery Barn really isn't the best quality either.  Armed with what I thought I wanted it was time to learn how to use Sketchup. Previously I've done everything on pad/paper.  The wood I chose was sapele--a beautiful African mahogany hardwood that is relatively easy to work with. Long story short, here is one of the completed tables!  Well, I still need to find the right drawer pulls but those are easy to put on. Full shot--including the super secret shelf.  The complete bedroom set with the king-sized bed I made last winter.  Now that the bed and tables are complete, I've already gotten a jump on designing next winter's project:  The dresser is about the same height as the headboard and at roughly half the width. Once again I loved the idea of the secret pull-out shelf so I added that in. I don't know if I'll ever get tired of the satisfaction one gets when a project is complete; or the itch to start another one.
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Jan 21, 2010 04:42
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That looks really nice. I love that color and grain you've got there. Funny thing with sketchup, too, was that I just finished modeling my next project in sketchup as well. Learning curve, but hey. Here's the surface of my new poker table:  In theory, it'll be white oak, walnut, and padauk. I'm more than wishy-washy on the oak, though. I might have to go browse around and see what else is out there. Or, leave the oak, and replace the padauk with more walnut. In short, I haven't decided 100% on the materials, but you get the idea. I like that it sort of reminds me of a roulette wheel. The playing field and wrist pad is elevated about a half inch above the racetrack. This version (I went through several today) has a largest diameter, including wrist pad, of about 50". Largest playing field diameter of about 31". 4" racetrack, 4" wrist pad. It'll sit on a single pedestal leg, of course. I also have a friend who specializes in leather upholstery. I should be able to get a high-quality custom-built leather wrist pad for just the cost of the materials and a few homebrews. Oh, and assume rounded edges and bevels and such where it makes sense, like the edge of the playing field and wrist pad wrist pad, and the chip trenches, which will be round in profile instead of flat. I just don't know how to model that well.  Here's the sketchup model if anyone wants to look at it. http://gregshort.net/poker/pokertable.skp Any suggestions before I declare this particular iteration of the design final?
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Jan 21, 2010 05:28
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Boogeyman posted:What's the best product to use to clean these pieces off (get rid of the old wax/dirt/grime/whatever), and what should I put on them to keep them protected? I've never had wood furniture before, so I'm clueless as to what works and what doesn't. Also, can I use the same cleaner on the inside of the drawers to get rid of the "old people" smell? I got a couple pieces of antique wooden furniture from my aunt that were in pretty rough shape, and Liquid Gold took made them look fantastic. I got it at Lowe's, and it was cheap. There's a spray version, and a liquid version, which is what I got.
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Jan 21, 2010 06:57
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Since this thread is huge and daunting, sorry if this has already been addressed (it probably has; I looked a bit and didn't see). Very little experience here (a bit of home repair with my dad, a bit of making lovely tables purely for practical value). I'd like to get into woodworking, and I'd like to specifically get into old-school woodworking (i.e. little to no power tools) for various reasons, mainly (1) small budget, (2) I like old-school methods and things, (3) better apocalypse preparedness  Also, I'm not necessarily looking to do the really neat curvy stuff like in the OP, but more nice-looking, sturdy, and practical woodwork. So I found the following via a link from a link from a link in the OP: The Index of Fossil-Fuel-Friendly Woodworking Knowledge (Okay, I'm a tree-hugging hippie who is very careful about energy use, but even I don't think power tools are a misuse of energy) That list of literature is a bit...daunting, although I'll keep it on hand as a reference. As I happen to have the fortune of a very well-stocked public library, I'm going to go investigate the book situation, as I think that might be a bit more manageable for me (by the way, any recommendations on the book front?) But since you folks seem to enjoy discussing it, I figure I'd jump the gun and post... Any glaring advice (or if you point me to somewhere where this already happened in the thread), major dos and don'ts, etc., for someone brand new looking to get into most-or-all-hand-tools woodworking?
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Jan 21, 2010 17:41
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straw_ewe posted:stuff I like the style and finish on them a lot. Would you be able to email me the sketchup files so I can take a look at the dimensions? Also that look of the bed is exactly the style my wife and I are look for.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:41
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sparticus posted:I like the style and finish on them a lot. Would you be able to email me the sketchup files so I can take a look at the dimensions? No problem, straw _ ewe at hotmail. You gave me an excuse to try and put the bed into Sketchup as well.
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Jan 22, 2010 05:28
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straw_ewe posted:No problem, straw _ ewe at hotmail. You gave me an excuse to try and put the bed into Sketchup as well. If you are able to put your bed into Sketchup I'd love to take a look at it - a head/foot board are what I'd like to do next, and I love how yours looks.
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Jan 22, 2010 05:45
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10-use limited Rapidshare link: http://rapidshare.com/files/339271405/Bedroom.skp.html As for the stain I used two coats of Minwax Mahogany Gel applied with t-shirt rags (one to apply, another to wipe off about 45sec later). Once that set for a day or so came the polyurethane, about three coats for everything although for the bedside tables I probably put 5-6 on the tops. I used semi-gloss but you're free to use satin or the full gloss if you want. Edit: For the center support I used this hardware from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5287 And for the 3 3/4 x 6 3/4 x 81" (heavy) side rails I used these: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10&tagem=rv By far the hardest part is moving the drat thing. The headboard is essentially 4x4 posts, a 2x6 cap, and that field is 3/4" solid sapele--heavy as hell. Jonny Quest fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 13:11
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How did you cut and square up the 4x4's? I had problems with my bench because the top was a little over 3 inches thick.
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Jan 22, 2010 18:21
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They don't look like it but they're actually made up of 2 pieces glued together. As it wasn't really possible to find 16/4 sapele I did my best by planing 8/4 boards to approximately ~2x4 and then gluing them together. Then a few trips through the planer left them at their final dimension of a shade more than 3 5/8" square.
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Jan 22, 2010 23:50
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Bedroom Sketchup here is the link to the file, my own hosting.
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Jan 23, 2010 01:14
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sparticus posted:Bedroom Sketchup Thanks, Sparticus. The file has all three pieces: 
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Jan 23, 2010 03:54
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alnilam posted:But since you folks seem to enjoy discussing it, I figure I'd jump the gun and post... Any glaring advice (or if you point me to somewhere where this already happened in the thread), major dos and don'ts, etc., for someone brand new looking to get into most-or-all-hand-tools woodworking? Note that I by no means know what I'm talking about but here's some internet advice just off the top of my head: go browse old issues of woodworking magazines at your library for ideas. Also, go find a proper cabinet/woodworker supply store in your area and go shoot the poo poo to learn from the old guys. Although every time I go to my local ones I always end up broke. But really it comes down to just getting your hands dirty (bloody) and making stuff (mistakes). Although on the whole I'd say: 1) You can never have too many clamps. 2) No, seriously, go buy more. 3) Do not scrimp on block planes, scrapers, or chisels. Keep them sharp, clean, and organized. 4) You may want to check out Japanese handsaws--they cut on the pull vs the push for western saws and may give you a bit finer control over detail work.
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Jan 23, 2010 04:11
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You guys making chests of drawers - what did you use for your drawer bottoms? I'm planning one as my next project and it will have fairly wide drawers (probably around 24 inches) - is half inch plywood overkill? Also, I got my Leigh jig demo DVD in the mail this week and just watched it. Now I'm thinking I'll save up and buy a D4R instead of the PC4212 or a SuperJig. The D4R seems rock solid and I like the overall design. I wish it could cut half blind dovetails in a single pass, but I suppose I can live without that if it means I get more solid construction and 24 inch capacity.
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Jan 24, 2010 00:18
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straw_ewe posted:3) Do not scrimp on block planes, scrapers, or chisels. Keep them sharp, clean, and organized. My roommate used one of my chisels to scrape poo poo off a car part when he changed his brakes. hosed the end up horribly, its now a bulb of metal. I had to have a talk with him about wood chisels needing to be sharp and clean .
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Jan 24, 2010 00:22
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ChaoticSeven posted:Finished a bench.
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Jan 24, 2010 00:55
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LordOfThePants posted:You guys making chests of drawers - what did you use for your drawer bottoms? I'm planning one as my next project and it will have fairly wide drawers (probably around 24 inches) - is half inch plywood overkill? A bit over-kill, probably. I just measured my existing drawer at 14"x27" and it uses 3/8" luan, which is what I'm going to use on a drawer that will be 17"x38" wide.
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Jan 24, 2010 01:27
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LordOfThePants posted:You guys making chests of drawers - what did you use for your drawer bottoms? I'm planning one as my next project and it will have fairly wide drawers (probably around 24 inches) - is half inch plywood overkill? I guess it depends on what you're putting in the drawers, quarter inch plywood should be more than strong enough for anything but cinderblocks.
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Jan 24, 2010 06:15
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I picked up that furniture yesterday and cleaned the poo poo out of it with some Murphy's Orange Oil Cleaner (that was all that my Lowes seemed to have at the time). It did a nice job of shining everything up and getting rid of the really stuck on dirt. Unfortunately, I didn't look at the nightstands too closely before I bought them, and the finish on the top of them is starting to flake...guess that means I'll be refinishing them at some point. Next question...that cleaner I used says specifically that it shouldn't be used on unfinished wood. I noticed when I was cleaning out the drawers that the sides and backs are very, very dried out and the dovetails are starting to shrink a bit and loosen up. Is there something I can put on unfinished wood to keep it from drying out so much?
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Jan 25, 2010 19:00
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I purchased a Jet JTS-10MD (built in 1991) a few months ago, but wanted to get a new fence for it. I cannot for the life of me find a resource to get details on what will fit. Does anyone have any suggestions? I will try to get some pictures up.
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Jan 26, 2010 16:38
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I was given a ryobi table saw for christmas, BTS16 I believe, and I think it has problems. You can engage the miter slot fully and it has at least a degree of play in any direction, and the factory throat plate is so far off from flush it makes some cuts impossible. Is there any hope of fixing the miter slots or should I look into replacing the whole thing?
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Jan 28, 2010 01:50
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superdylan posted:I was given a ryobi table saw for christmas, BTS16 I believe, and I think it has problems. You can engage the miter slot fully and it has at least a degree of play in any direction, and the factory throat plate is so far off from flush it makes some cuts impossible. Is there any hope of fixing the miter slots or should I look into replacing the whole thing? As far as the miter gauge, I'd pick up an aftermarket one - it's a good upgrade for a tablesaw anyway. I just bought an Incra V27 from Amazon because it's the cheapest right now that I've seen it in some time. The miter gauge fit can be tweaked to your saw by loosening/tightening screws in the top of the bar. The higher end Incra miter gauges all use the same system so you can get a good, tight fit. As far as the insert plate goes, are there leveling screws on it that you can adjust? You might also consider making your own insert plate from plywood and just running the blade up through it to make a zero clearance insert. There's a good video on how to make a zero clearance insert here: http://www.woodsmithshop.com/episodes/season2/209/?play=zero-clearance-insert.flv
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Jan 28, 2010 02:21
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I need to make some raised panels for a door, and I thought I had a raised panel bit... but sadly, I don't. I have a tablesaw, I was thinking of seeing what I can do with it and by hand, but I think that might be a waste of my time. Ideas? I don't particular want to purchase a raised panel bit right now for my router table. If there's any goons with a surface planer and raised panel bit in the Philly region give me a PM or an AIM. I'm only trying to make 2 small panels.
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Jan 28, 2010 03:23
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I know this comes up here fairly often, but I'm in the market for a table saw. Anyone know where one of the posts is that gives a rundown of what's out there and the quality/usability thereof? I went through a bunch of the thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. For the most part, I want something that has all the modern safety equipment you (being a competent woodworker) would demand to have on your saw, has a large enough table to cut sheetstock without gymnastics, and is high enough quality and power it won't poo poo out on me inside of a year or the first time I try to rip a real hardwood in 8/4. Oh and if I can get it for cheap that's cool too I guess. I'm really hoping to spend <$1000, and if I found what I wanted for half that I'd skip work to go buy one right now, so that gives you an idea of my price range. Of course, if I discovered the best table saw ever created by man and it cost $1200, yeah, I'd be willing.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:12
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Depending on how insane you are or how many math majors you have on hand you can make some cove cuts on a table saw. Look at the profile of your blade from an oblique angle and you may see what I mean. You just set up an auxiliary fence that's at an angle to the blade. I made one out of a scrap sheet of plywood and some mdf.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:14
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Barn Owl posted:Depending on how insane you are or how many math majors you have on hand you can make some cove cuts on a table saw. Look at the profile of your blade from an oblique angle and you may see what I mean. You just set up an auxiliary fence that's at an angle to the blade. I made one out of a scrap sheet of plywood and some mdf. I just woke up, so I have to think about this a little more for it to make sense. You could cut my learning curve down by posting a quick ms-paint diagram however. That being said, you just made an idea come to mind of using an ogee curve (I think?) router bit I have and a hand plane to get the same effect, with a different style. Maybe it might even look nice.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:19
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The Cope and Stick you have to do as tongue and groove by hand. but if you're going for a Cove detail for the raised panel you can build a Jig to feet the stock thru the blade at an angle. You have to either slowly raise the blade, or slowly push the jig to the back of the table. Just make sure that for whatever angle you do that only the teeth contact the wood. The profile will be whatever the Red circle is in the diagram and dependent on blade height and angle of the workpiece. Raise the blade to the depth of the groove you're looking for. Look at the blade dead on at the teeth and slowly look from the left or right. A circle can be any parabola that fits within itself. It just depends on how the plane intersects. Then again I didn't do so hot in Calc II. Green - Jig Red - Saw Teeth Arrow - Feed Direction Left - Top Down of saw Right - View of endgrain Barn Owl fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 17:45
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Bad Munki posted:I know this comes up here fairly often, but I'm in the market for a table saw. Anyone know where one of the posts is that gives a rundown of what's out there and the quality/usability thereof? I went through a bunch of the thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. Since riving knives have started being adopted stateside I guess this would be the cheapest "nice" option in cabinet saws. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690 To do sheet goods it doesn't matter the saw you buy, you'll have to build some sort of outfeed support or buy one. Cheaper option, on sale and with a large following (I own one): http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-5-HP-3-Phase-Left-Tilt-Cabinet-Saw/G1023SLWX3 Grizzly also makes a contractor saw with a riving knife, but I wouldn't pay $850 plus shipping for a contractor saw unless it was a Sawstop. Cabinet saws can actually take up less room, doing away with the outboard motor mount. Also a lot easier to adjust for blade parallelism. dv6speed posted:I need to make some raised panels for a door, and I thought I had a raised panel bit... but sadly, I don't. I have a tablesaw, I was thinking of seeing what I can do with it and by hand, but I think that might be a waste of my time. http://www.cabinetmaking.com/pages/raised_panel.htm
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Jan 28, 2010 21:46
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ChaoticSeven posted:http://www.cabinetmaking.com/pages/raised_panel.htm
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Jan 28, 2010 21:53
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 Here is the saw that I am looking to get a new fence and rail system. Any suggestions?
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Jan 30, 2010 17:03
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sparticus posted:
It's fairly expensive, but check the Incra website to see if their fence system will work. They have pretty detailed information on what's required to get it working. Speaking of Incra, I installed my Miter V27 today - very happy with it. The adjustment for miter bar width is really slick and worked well. The angle stops on the gauge are very handy - I used it to make a couple quick 45 degree angle blocks to support a clamp rack I made. I'd have never even attempted that with the old Craftsman miter gauge (which is still more substantial than anything you get with a modern saw I bet) - I'd always dig out the miter saw and just use that to save myself the headache.
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Jan 31, 2010 01:10
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I'm looking for a 2-button rocker-esque switch to replace the switch/update the wiring on an old table saw (it currently has a toggle in an inconvenient location, both aspects of which I do not approve.) Preferably something with two large buttons, the ON button being protected or recessed, and the OFF button protruding so I can put a bar across it. Any idea where I can get such a thing?
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Feb 1, 2010 19:49
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Bad Munki posted:I'm looking for a 2-button rocker-esque switch to replace the switch/update the wiring on an old table saw (it currently has a toggle in an inconvenient location, both aspects of which I do not approve.) Preferably something with two large buttons, the ON button being protected or recessed, and the OFF button protruding so I can put a bar across it. Any idea where I can get such a thing? I looked on Mcmaster Carr and Grainger Danger, found this on GIS http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&Max=999
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Feb 1, 2010 20:09
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Thanks, that switch was exactly what I was looking for. Just ordered two, actually.
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Feb 1, 2010 22:07
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Radical. Does anyone have an opinion on benchtop jointer/planers? I played with the portercable at lowes and I'm looking at http://grizzly.com/products/6-x-24-Bench-Top-Jointer/G0612 as well, but I'm wondering if I can use it on boards that are longer than the table, and if I need one to begin with. Similar tools I own: Circular saw 10" bandsaw incapable of cutting straight lines Router + table Benchtop belt sander 12" miter saw Does anyone use a jointer/planer? Do you wish you had a larger one? Should I forget it and save for a table saw?
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Feb 1, 2010 22:36
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