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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:1)I imagine you should use some type of gas valve with a built in check so you don't blow up your house to the meter. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:2)The only thing i know is braided supply's (Yellow supply's)but those aren't very quick. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Why are you having threaded joints in an oxygen system to begin with?
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Jan 27, 2010 05:40
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dv6speed posted:Haven't ever seen a valve with built in check valve. Got any sort of link to one in a plumbing catalog online for me to look at? In my experience, that would always be something that'd be plumbed directly after the valve, if the application requires it. I will have to ask my boss due to my lack of gas knowledge. quote:The hose I'm talking about is not for permanent install. A grade T torch hose is perfectly adequate and safe for carrying natural gas. The line is running at a pressure of about 1 PSI. The natural gas will not react chemically with the hose. quote:Well, I've seen oxygen line installs in plenty welding shops that all used threaded black steel pipe and fittings (schedule 80), just as if it were a gas line. I assume if it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me. I am curious as to how they can run oxygen through steel pipe with out having any oil. What would they use to cut and thread the pipe? I've only seen copper lines used for med gas oxygen. I guess if they had a oil free cutting oil it would be possible. And coated pipe to be oil free it could be possible If you find out more about this I am curious to know.
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Jan 27, 2010 06:30
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you can adapt to it, then it should be fine. Why do you need it easily removeable? Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I am curious as to how they can run oxygen through steel pipe with out having any oil. What would they use to cut and thread the pipe? I've only seen copper lines used for med gas oxygen. Oxygen supply lines for medical and industrial purposes are entirely different, people don't have to breathe it in a welding shop. That being said, I do know that oxygen can have bad reactions with oil, however I was under the impression this was really only a danger with high pressure oxygen. (2000 PSI in the cylinder to regulator connection.) The pressure the supply line will be running at won't ever be more then 50 PSI in most cases, unless we are talking about a cutting torch or an oxygen lance being used at a steel mill, which doesn't apply to my garage, or most weld shops. Most times, I'm using max of 35 PSI for my work. Thanks for the help so far, I do appreciate it! Edit: This site has some nice looking stuff: http://www.tejassmokers.com/NatGasHoses.htm AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jan 27, 2010 |
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Jan 27, 2010 14:41
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dv6speed posted:I don't NEED it to be removable, but a quick connect fitting would be nice. They have them for torches... I just wonder if there's one that is approved for me to install on my house's gas line. That's very interesting to learn that low pressure of O2 not having an issue. Well i cant say it wont have any issue. But all the searching i'm doing on Google doesn't seem to say it is a problem.
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Jan 27, 2010 17:18
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I have an utterly manky one-piece tub surround in my master bathroom. It's yellowed, stained, ill-designed, and I want it gone. Currently, it has independent hot & cold taps, and you engage the shower by pulling down the lip of the faucet. The plan is to cut it out, replace it with a standard 60"x30" alcove tub, replace the crumbling drywall with cement backer board, and put in tile. Two things are holding up forward progress, because plumbing is one area I'm not particularly familiar with. 1.) Is the drain location on tubs standard enough that the tub shoe and drain from the current tub will match the new tub? It's about 14" from the drywall. 2.) How hard would it be to switch from the two tap set up to a one handle, cartridge-style?
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Jan 27, 2010 19:40
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badnoodle posted:I have an utterly manky one-piece tub surround in my master bathroom. It's yellowed, stained, ill-designed, and I want it gone. Currently, it has independent hot & cold taps, and you engage the shower by pulling down the lip of the faucet. 2) What type of water pipes do you have do you have. Copper is easy to adapt to, galvy on an old house can be a bitch.
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Jan 27, 2010 20:18
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badnoodle posted:2.) How hard would it be to switch from the two tap set up to a one handle, cartridge-style? If you're going to be stripping the tub area down to the studs, then the ease of replacing the faucet would be the same as installing a new fixture. The real answer for how hard that would be is where the studs are placed in that wall. Their placement really determines how hard it will be to put in the new faucet assembly, mainly how you'll have to drill holes, cut away any studs partially, run tubes for the spigot and shower head, etc. You really can't figure this out without stripping down to the studs first. I suppose you could screw around with a stud finder on the other side of the wall and a shitload of measuring if you're really determined.
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Jan 27, 2010 20:19
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:1) It can differ tub to tub so you will have to adapt the waste and over flow for the new tub 1.)Great. I knew this project was going to be more challenging than it seemed. 2.) I'm pretty sure it's copper, but I'm not absolutely certain as there isn't an access panel(one of the other things being rectified). Either way, once it's beyond threaded joints, it's over my head. If switching over is going to be a major pain, I won't do it. It's just easier to find coordinating fixtures for the sink & shower if you've got single handle control. The more I think about it, the more it seems like I'd do better to call a pro to handle the old tub demo & install the new one properly.
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Jan 27, 2010 21:21
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From my ask tell threadMorbus posted:As far as the basic autoignition temperature goes (and most other things), all that really matters is the O2 partial pressure. So either increasing O2 concentration or increasing gas pressure can have more or less the same effect on the combustion reaction. In other words, 100% O2 at 1/5 atm is the same as 1 atm of air.
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Jan 28, 2010 02:42
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(re-post from ask/tell thread) Got some answers by doing some internet research. More research needs to be done however... but basically... Copper oxygen pipe is only used for medical situations. Copper is NOT approved for "industrial" uses which is where my application falls under. You are indeed SUPPOSED to use black steel pipe, however, unless the pipe is specifically sold as oxygen safe by it's manufacturer, it needs to be washed by immersion in a caustic soda solution, in the proportion of one pound of soda to one gallon of water. You are supposed to fully disassemble and wash any other fittings and valves to be used. It can use welded fittings (preferred) or threaded fittings with an oxygen safe pipe dope. The line needs to be purged and leak tested with oil-free compressed air, or an inert gas. Also, the pipe and fittings must be approved up to 300 PSI, even if you plan to use a lower pressure. Edit: to clarify, coppers's not approved for MOST industrial purposes, but there are exceptions. But for something "standard" like a pipe for torch oxygen, steel is the best, cheapest, and strongest material. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 05:10
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Washing in caustic soda is actually an "old" method, but it'll have to do for my purposes. The new, "approved" method is after the system is assembled, to pump a heated solvent through it, then pump clean with boiling Grade B water, then have the water samples chemically analyzed.
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Jan 28, 2010 16:36
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dv6speed posted:(re-post from ask/tell thread) We use Medical grade nitrogen. We rent a bottle and the poo poo still isnt cheap to get. I dont know if you have to have a special licence to get medical grade nitrogen (oil free) though.
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Jan 28, 2010 18:51
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Well all oxygen related issues aside... I learned that natural gas does not need flashback arrestors because it is stable enough that it can't break down and burn without oxygen like acetylene can. The main issue I'm having right now is finding a suitable check valve. I can't find anything meant for low pressure natural gas delivery. I may not need a check valve because of my burner design which is based on a venturi. Meaning, the air has more then enough room to flow by itself without back pressure and having to go into the gas supply. In fact it will form a vacuum effect on the gas supply, which is the effect I want. That all being said, if a suitable check valves exists, I would like to have it. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jan 30, 2010 |
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Jan 30, 2010 01:35
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 What the gently caress Today I decided to move my water heater. I am moving stuff around in my basement and had to move it to a spot probably 2.5 feet away. This is where the fun starts. My houses is CPVC with a few bits of copper at the water heater outlet/inlet and at the main house water inlet. My house is new construction, has fancy "passed final inspection" stickers and all that cool stuff. The problem though is the fucktard glued the CPVC to plain copper connections... just slip fittings held together with plain ole CPVC cement.  Since the poo poo fell apart when removing the water heater I had to find a suitable replacement at home depot and went with some of those Shark compression fittings. So that bullshit is now dealt with on the water heater. My bigger problem is still the main water inlet from the street that has a copper slip fitting holding a 3/4" CPVC pipe in with CPVC cement (same color and texture as every other connection around the house). On the water heater connections the slightest twisting action broke the cement and the pipes just spun. How the gently caress did this pass code? How the gently caress did the city and county and even my home inspector miss this?
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Jan 30, 2010 06:18
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dietcokefiend posted:
My first thought is that the inspector thought the "plumber" who did your house used the proper transition fittings, something a real plumber would have used. That's pretty messed up though, I'm surprised they held pressure at all if they fell apart that easy.
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Jan 30, 2010 07:11
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Mthrboard posted:My first thought is that the inspector thought the "plumber" who did your house used the proper transition fittings, something a real plumber would have used. That's pretty messed up though, I'm surprised they held pressure at all if they fell apart that easy. Ya inspectors don't really check everything that well. And most inspectors don't know poo poo for code.
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Jan 30, 2010 16:01
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Well I think I did pretty well for my first ever plumbing project, and first with CPVC.  Total cost was about 100 or so if you include the tools and misc crap I had to pick up at the same time. Direct parts was about 10 for CVPC>copper joints, 4 for 10 feet of 3/4 CPVC, 3 for a bag of 90 degree joints, 20 for the drip pan, and 5 for the junction box with stress relievers. Goal was to move the thing about 2.5 feet so furnace ductwork could be moved allowing the furnace itself to be relocated. Total time was about 8 hours start to finish, but only about 3 hours of actual work. Complications include retarded plumbing, partially flooding my basement, and the power grid dropping midway through.    Probably the biggest PITA out of all of it was getting the tank to drain from the mineral deposits at the bottom clogging the drain. That and moving a 66 gallon water heater myself. Fuckers dont have handles. EDIT: To drain the water heater in the future or to get to the adjustment panels you need to squeeze in between the water heater and the radon pipe near the wall. No fatties allowed  (yes I verified a few times that I could fit in there)
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Jan 30, 2010 19:31
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Pretty slick work on that water heater. :) Here's an idle question. My house was built in 1947 in the mid South and I'm pretty sure the sewer pipe running from my basement to the city sewer is some of the old Orangeburg fiber pipe. I can see the end of it in the basement - it's black in color but pretty different from the cast iron used in the house itself. Any thoughts on how I can verify what it is, and how likely I am to have problems with it? Toilets, washing machine, everything has been working fine for the last 4 months.
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Jan 30, 2010 21:29
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dietcokefiend posted:water heater Also why is the Temperature and pressure release valve insulated? It shouldn't be warm at all since no water flows through it. (the t/p valve itself is a little but the pipe wont loose much heat out of it)
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Jan 31, 2010 00:10
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slap me silly posted:Pretty slick work on that water heater. Post a picture of it, i can probably tell you what it is. And if its not broken don't fix it.
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Jan 31, 2010 00:12
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Huh. That shielded thing is probably what I should have on my main sewer pipe, then? Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Whoops, quote/edit/reply fuuuuck slap me silly fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Jan 31, 2010 00:53
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Good work on moving it. A couple questions though. Why did u put a pan under the water heater? You're on a concrete slab with a floor drain. Why the pan? The entire basement will be finished and about 3" from it will be a wall to the movie theater. While the drain is close, the floor isnt shaped to spill everything that direction. When I had my little water fun last night most of the water actually moved toward the rest of the room, not at the drain. It was cheap insurance. If you notice, the pan is setup where the bottom drain and T&P aim right into it if a small leak starts. The T&P valve is actually warm. It is a copper/brass valve assembly that is connected right to the tank. It wicks away heat just like any other part of the water heater. Last winter I covered as much of the exposed metal as I could. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jan 31, 2010 |
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Jan 31, 2010 01:22
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dietcokefiend posted:Why the pan? The entire basement will be finished and about 3" from it will be a wall to the movie theater. While the drain is close, the floor isnt shaped to spill everything that direction. When I had my little water fun last night most of the water actually moved toward the rest of the room, not at the drain. It was cheap insurance. If you notice, the pan is setup where the bottom drain and T&P aim right into it if a small leak starts. The one time Ive seen a water heal fail it got a pin hole leak in the side of it and it was shooting out steam and hot water. I can understand for wanting a pan under it but the likely hood that it will catch anything is unlikely. But its all a case of what if. And the t/p usually blows off a decent amount of water then if sediment gets caught in them they will start to drip. So the pan wont catch much and you should pipe it outside if you're really worried. The only thing about piping it outside is you aren't as likely to see if they are dripping. The t/p on my water heater is warm but that's about it. The inlet pipe and outlet pipes are by far warmer. That's why i asked why you were insulating it because it seemed like such a minimal thing to insulate. If you are concerned about energy savings you can always insulate all the hot lines in your house. It would be more beneficial if you had copper lines. But Cpvc still will let heat escape. edit: Did you primer the cpvc fittings? What type of CPVC glue did you use? Usually they are a one step glue and you don't need to primer the pipe or fittings.. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jan 31, 2010 |
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Jan 31, 2010 19:05
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slap me silly posted:cast iron Ya its cast iron. And honestly there is nothing wrong with cast iron. It is still used in buildings today. And its a lot quieter then the plastic pipe that most homes are using now (ABS and PVC).
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Jan 31, 2010 19:12
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When is it going to rust out and spew forth feces all across my basement, though. Also, do you think it's cast iron all 80' across my back yard, or does it probably change over to Orangeburg right outside the foundation?
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Jan 31, 2010 19:31
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slap me silly posted:When is it going to rust out and spew forth feces all across my basement, though. Also, do you think it's cast iron all 80' across my back yard, or does it probably change over to Orangeburg right outside the foundation? Inspect the bottom of the cast iron pipe. Does it feel soft? if it squishes in your hands then its bad. But it looks like its in fairly good condition. I cant be sure what you have out in your yard. It could be anything from pvc to clay. It depends on what area you're in. Did you recently get hooked up to the city sewer?
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Jan 31, 2010 20:03
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The one time Ive seen a water heal fail it got a pin hole leak in the side of it and it was shooting out steam and hot water. I can understand for wanting a pan under it but the likely hood that it will catch anything is unlikely. But its all a case of what if. Most of it was "what if" stuff, for the cost if it managed to even stop any leak it was going to be worth it for the pan. When I originally bought insulation for the exposed copper sections I had a good amount laying around afterwards. I just stuck it on anything that was warm. I used a two-part cpvc primer and cement. Purple stuff and the orange goop. I read that some one step stuff existed but I didn't know about it at the time or really care. I just wanted to make sure that whatever I got at my 2nd or 3rd trip to Home Depot that day was going to cover all that I needed to do 
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Jan 31, 2010 20:04
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dietcokefiend posted:Most of it was "what if" stuff, for the cost if it managed to even stop any leak it was going to be worth it for the pan.
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Jan 31, 2010 20:18
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I've never seen primer used on cpvc. But up in Washington they just use the yellow glue and call it good. When was your house built? I'm guessing it was in the 90's to have cpvc originally installed. 2006 which makes all this retarded poo poo even more retarded. It was a brand new house that I moved into with so many stupid layout issues. EDIT: The original joints all seem to use the one-step yellow stuff. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 31, 2010 |
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Jan 31, 2010 21:00
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dietcokefiend posted:2006 which makes all this retarded poo poo even more retarded. It was a brand new house that I moved into with so many stupid layout issues. What state do you live in? I'm surprised anyone uses CPVC anymore for water piping. The problem you find with it is. After 10 years or so it become brittle. I do service on an apartment complex that has issues with it. I would have thought most people used pex.
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Jan 31, 2010 21:08
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:What state do you live in? I'm surprised anyone uses CPVC anymore for water piping. The problem you find with it is. After 10 years or so it become brittle. I do service on an apartment complex that has issues with it. I would have thought most people used pex. Ohio If the piping ever starts to be a problem it will probably be well after I am out of this place.
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Jan 31, 2010 21:16
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This might seem like a kinda minor problem, but plumbing has been driving me crazy lately. We recently moved into a slightly older house (more than 30 years old) in the Dallas area, suffice to say the people who lived here before us took absolutely terrible care of everything, and the plumbing was even worse. The most recent problem is one of the shower/bath drains, wasn't exactly draining slowly, but would drain fine until for whatever reason it would almost completely stop, the tub would start to fill and it would sit there draining incredibly slowly. We tried several things the first time this happened, what worked best was one of those rubber bladders you screw onto your hose, sticking that down the air vent. Problem is, it comes back every 10 days or so of regular use, the bladder thing'll clear it right out and a week and a half later, draining slow again. Now, I don't know anything about plumbing, my dad's given me all sorts of ominous warnings about using the wrong kind of chemical (apparently depending on whats down there), but I've already had several plumbing catastrophes, at least a couple of which were directly involving the other bath's plumbing being in such horrific shape. So, I guess, does anyone know what it sounds like the problem actually is here, and what can I do to fix it? I'm sure there are important details I'm leaving out, but I don't know what all is relevant.
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Feb 4, 2010 02:10
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Adimeadozen posted:The most recent problem is one of the shower/bath drains, wasn't exactly draining slowly, but would drain fine until for whatever reason it would almost completely stop, the tub would start to fill and it would sit there draining incredibly slowly. Is the shower in question on the first or second story?
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Feb 4, 2010 03:53
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It does sound like you do have a clog further down the line.But the reason it takes 10 days or so to act up again is the pipes aren't cleaning themselves. So gunk is building up slowly and it once again cause a blockage. I would suggest renting a power snake or hiring a professional to snake it out for you.
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Feb 4, 2010 05:06
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dorquemada posted:Is the shower in question on the first or second story? First story Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It does sound like you do have a clog further down the line.But the reason it takes 10 days or so to act up again is the pipes aren't cleaning themselves. So gunk is building up slowly and it once again cause a blockage. This might be the case, though there isn't much distance the water has to go before it gets out of the house and at the... outside drain access thing the water seems to be flowing fine, I'm not sure if that has any particular bearing on it, but I seem to remember it influencing our decision the first time. Still, thanks, I guess I'll have to see if a power snake'll do it, we tried running a hand snake down the vent and it was a complete pain in the rear end.
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Feb 4, 2010 05:55
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Adimeadozen posted:First story Watch out with a power snake you can bust through 90's on cast or lead fittings with out any effort. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 06:24
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Watch out with a power snake you can bust through 90's on cast or lead fittings with out any effort. Oh good, that makes me feel better, heh. So if/when I have to do that, get a professional, are there any other reasonable alternatives (just really wanting to minimize cost)? I just found out this morning my roommate put Liquid-Plumr foaming pipe stuff down the drain, it foamed, drained slowly and did absolutely nothing, don't know if that means anything.
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Feb 4, 2010 19:23
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Adimeadozen posted:Oh good, that makes me feel better, heh. So if/when I have to do that, get a professional, are there any other reasonable alternatives (just really wanting to minimize cost)? I just found out this morning my roommate put Liquid-Plumr foaming pipe stuff down the drain, it foamed, drained slowly and did absolutely nothing, don't know if that means anything. Shop around for a professional. Roto rooter is expensive and it doesn't mean they do better work. Also now wear safety goggles if you snake it yourself. And when you remove the snake from the drain, don't throw it in reverse unless you want to shoot poo poo EVERYWHERE.
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Feb 4, 2010 20:09
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gently caress freezing ground. The cast iron sewer pipe loving up and broke under the house because of freeze/thaw pressures. I just paid $180 to get the fucker snaked out after a tidal wave of poo poo colored water flooded into my garage after taking a shower and doing a load of wash. Good loving thing I'm renting, to repair it was estimated at north of $15000.
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Feb 12, 2010 08:38
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Hah, just what I need to hear now that we've established I have a cast iron sewer pipe and it's loving freezing in these parts.
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Feb 12, 2010 16:25
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