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MMD3 posted:so it's not something I should have expected would be fixed with an alignment job? On my very first car this happened after a mechanic did some front end work. (this was before I did my own work.) I went back and asked about it, they centered the wheel no problem. ab0z posted:Wouldn't the solution be to thread the outer tie rod IN farther on the left side and OUT by an equal amount on the right side? Can anyone think of why this wouldn't be the solution?
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 21:32 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 10:44 |
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I'm not sure if newer cars are the same way, but in my old car, the wheel was just a splined shaft, so you get a steering wheel puller tool, straighten the wheels, pop the steering wheel, center it, and reinstall. My old car didn't have an airbag though, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference in newer cars (it was an '84).
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 00:58 |
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MMD3 posted:so it's not something I should have expected would be fixed with an alignment job? No, it should have been. Other shops I've gone to don't have any problem with it, just I don't know where to go where I live now. They never get it right. Fantastipotamus posted:I'm not sure if newer cars are the same way, but in my old car, the wheel was just a splined shaft, so you get a steering wheel puller tool, straighten the wheels, pop the steering wheel, center it, and reinstall. It would be a lot of extra work thanks to the airbag. You have to remove that first.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 01:03 |
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ab0z posted:Can anyone think of why this wouldn't be the solution? you can do that but then the rack will be off center. A little bit isn't a big deal, but if the rack is signficantly off, it's better to center the rack, disconnect the column (you have to un-bolt the rack to do this), center the wheel, and re-connect things. Additionally you need the column to stay mostly centered to avoid damage to the clock spring.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 03:20 |
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jamal posted:you can do that but then the rack will be off center. A little bit isn't a big deal, but if the rack is signficantly off, it's better to center the rack, disconnect the column (you have to un-bolt the rack to do this), center the wheel, and re-connect things. Additionally you need the column to stay mostly centered to avoid damage to the clock spring. His steering rack is off center right now, that's the problem. Adjusting the one outer tie rod in and the other side out equally in the right amount should fix this. Or am I missing an important piece of the puzzle? ab0z fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Feb 4, 2010 |
# ? Feb 4, 2010 05:17 |
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Well if the rack and wheel aren't aligned to center, just adjusting the tie rods will still leave the rack off-center, which means it will turn farther one way than the other. Anyhow, saw this for the first time today: luckily the guy noticed right away. There was a tiny bit of play on rod bearing 4 but his crank should still be in good shape. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Feb 4, 2010 |
# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:14 |
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Ugh.. Is that the oil pickup cracking thing?
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:33 |
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yep. but he was running a 35r on a stock block, so now rods, pistons and cams are going into the rebuild.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:41 |
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Have they ever released an updated oil pickup part that is definitively proven not to have this problem? Or was this just a narrow production range?
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:48 |
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I don't know the whole story and haven't ever been concerned about it. Killer B Motorsports makes a reinforced pickup, but from what I gather their quality control is a bit lacking so the bottom of the pickup isn't at the right height all the time.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:52 |
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ab0z posted:Have they ever released an updated oil pickup part that is definitively proven not to have this problem? When I read about it last it seemed to me to be a defective part on a range of vehicles. Lots of people were speculating that it was bad design (welds) but they were usually cracking at the bend and not at the welds. This problem is the worst though because if it cracks you have a very small opportunity to realize what is going on before you spin a bearing. Some people were reporting that they were just cruising down the highway and poof, engine death. Having an oil pressure gauge gives a little more chance. One guy saved his engine when he noticed his oil pressure gauge flatline. Oh Subaru, why is it that almost every year and model of your cars past 1996 have some sort of awful engine death problem I have to worry about if I buy used? 8ender fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Feb 4, 2010 |
# ? Feb 4, 2010 12:57 |
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Someone broke into my car last night, smashing the front driver-side window. Anyone have experience replacing the glass? It's a 99 outback and I'm wondering if there's anything special about the windows I should be aware of.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 19:28 |
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Iron Squid posted:Do Outbacks with a lift on them look silly or not? You be the judge This will be for sale soon in Spokane, WA @ $6000 OBO. It's a 2001. It's got a 1.5" lift kit and 2" King Springs, which the original owner imported from Australia a while ago. Tires are LT215/75 R15 Toyo Somethingbadasslooking on the best looking wheels Subaru ever made. I bought it with a bad 5-speed transmission and replaced that and fixed up a few other things. Paint is by Maaco so it's not the greatest, but that means you don't have to cry if it gets scratched. It rides nice and quiet and looks TOTALLY SWEET. baccaruda fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Feb 6, 2010 |
# ? Feb 6, 2010 03:44 |
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That looks pretty hot.
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 04:04 |
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Vladimir Putin posted:That looks pretty hot. Agreed, that is all kinds of awesome, expect for one thing: way too clean. needs some mud
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 04:18 |
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I think it looks goofy as hell, but also fun as hell.
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 04:54 |
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What kind of OEM wheels are those? Were they sold in NA? Will they fit on the WRX? That is one seriously hot Outback. How does the lift affect handling? vvv Oh well. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Feb 6, 2010 |
# ? Feb 6, 2010 05:20 |
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they're older 15" outback and 1st gen turbo legacy wheels. Do not fit wrx brakes.
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 05:25 |
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It handles great on the road. I have the front sway bar removed because the links get pushed back into the control arms when driving over bumps. I think it's because the springs are a little longer than the lift kit. I have the same problem on my lifted '86 but I left its front sway bar on.
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 05:48 |
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After seeing that lifted Outback...has anybody ever lifted a WRX/STi? I'm just (stupidly) curious, as I like the idea, but will probably be hated for it haha
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 18:47 |
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Just Another XY posted:After seeing that lifted Outback...has anybody ever lifted a WRX/STi? I'm just (stupidly) curious, as I like the idea, but will probably be hated for it haha http://fatlace.com/hellaflush/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/4157123934_e4476cbd0e_b.jpg If you google "hella unflush" you'll be able to find more info about it (I'd post if buy I'm on my way out the door). Looks goofy, but hilarious and fun.
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 19:43 |
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http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97168
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 21:27 |
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baccaruda posted:http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97168 that thing is ridiculous and awesome
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 21:54 |
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I have a feeling this gets asked quite a bit and I google this question myself every now and then and I never find any new info. Has there been any announcements from Subaru since 2008 about bringing it's diesel engines to the US?
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# ? Feb 6, 2010 23:31 |
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Jackson Rally's impreza is nuts. Greatly improved lift and departure angles over stock. A kid in the subaru club around here lifted his OBS. One inch spacers made by Jackson Rally along with general grabber truck tires. He says they fill his wheel well with no rubbing. Now he's out in utah loving around in the desert with Dirty Impreza people.
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# ? Feb 7, 2010 00:07 |
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shaitan posted:I have a feeling this gets asked quite a bit and I google this question myself every now and then and I never find any new info. Has there been any announcements from Subaru since 2008 about bringing it's diesel engines to the US? Last I heard it was supposed to be coming sometime in 2010 in the Outback. Who knows, though, could be the Legacy or Forester first. I'm definitely excited about it though.
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# ? Feb 7, 2010 01:40 |
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Mat_Drinks posted:Last I heard it was supposed to be coming sometime in 2010 in the Outback. Who knows, though, could be the Legacy or Forester first. If it's the Legacy then I'm sold. I've heard the Forester first but that's from info that's wicked old. But, since I haven't been able to find any solid info I'm thinking it's not gonna happen.
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# ? Feb 7, 2010 19:22 |
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I will say that my WRX earned its AWD badge this weekend and then some. I'm also floored with how well the Potenza 960as handled the 4th worst storm on record. The only thing that stopped me this weekend is ground clearance. 24 inches is a bit much to attempt.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 00:04 |
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Well, I found a new project car... 97 Impreza Outback for a great deal. Now I'm going to do a rear disc conversion (amongst other things), and I'm assuming it's probably a good idea to get the bearings packed in the hubs to be installed... Anyone know how much that normally costs?
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 03:47 |
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I just got my tax refund, and my 02 WRX wagon just turned 100,000. Whats on the maintence list that I should have done, and whats on the list coming up that I can have done early since I am a bit flush? I'm currently going to order a gallon and a couple quarts of Redline Shockproof, and have the trans/diff fluid replaced, I was thinking timing belt, spark plugs, coolant, serp. belt, and if enough is left I was going to put to a set of Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s, seeing as how I live in FL. I don't plan on buying new wheels, just using the stock 16's. Advise me oh wise ones.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 05:57 |
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http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html should help; it has a giant table of what you need to get done (and will need to do in the next 20k). Make sure to go back and check that you've done the previous services when it says to as well, obviously. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 8, 2010 |
# ? Feb 8, 2010 06:11 |
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If its turned 100k and you have some cash then its a perfect time to take care of the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and pulleys.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 06:25 |
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Isn't the timing belt at 60-80K intervals?
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 06:36 |
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Vladimir Putin posted:Isn't the timing belt at 60-80K intervals? No. The link 2 posts up has a copy-pasted chart from the official subaru page. Timing belt is at 105,000. Earlier models may have been different though.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 06:40 |
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Ok so combing the post and whats on that table, here is what I have come up with,
Am I missing anything? Any ballpark guesses on cost?
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 14:58 |
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toplitzin posted:Ok so combing the post and whats on that table, here is what I have come up with, Definitely replace on the tensioner and water pump. Personally I'd wait and see on the pulleys if you have the time. When you have the timing belt off you can give them a spin and see how they feel. If you have the money then by all means replace them all. Its also worth getting the "special tool" for doing the timing belt on the DOHC engines. It holds all the cogs steady while you mess with the belts. Good on the coolant, you'll need to replace that anyways if you decide to pull the radiator (recommended) to do the belt. As for coolant choice, get OEM or Peak Global coolant. Subaru is pretty specific about what kinds of coolant your car needs. Apparently anything else eats your engine.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 15:25 |
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On a similar note, the family 99 Forester just turned 100k and I'll knock out the usual 100k maintenance items this summer. They want to keep it at least another 10years/100k miles. What I'll do is: - Timing Belt - Drive Belts - Water Pump/Thermostat/Coolant - Coolant hoses - Tensioner & Pulleys... Which pulleys? - Powerwash grime off radiator - Replace rubber hose near oil filter that swelled & leaks - Repaint chipping alloy wheels, rotate tires, new brake fluid with the wheels off. - New CV axle where the heat of the catalytic converter obliterated the rubber CV boot - ??? My question is are there any other special tools that are handy to buy other than the timing belt tool? These are parts I would order from the dealer, I assume OEM is the best route for these kinds of parts. I think I'll get the axle from CVJ axles in Denver.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 16:56 |
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8ender posted:Definitely replace on the tensioner and water pump. Personally I'd wait and see on the pulleys if you have the time. When you have the timing belt off you can give them a spin and see how they feel. If you have the money then by all means replace them all. Its also worth getting the "special tool" for doing the timing belt on the DOHC engines. It holds all the cogs steady while you mess with the belts. I've got a 3k tax refund, so thats how much I have for repair and hopefully new tires. I'll be taking it to my local mechanic, my family and I have been using him for 20+ years, he has no problem with us buying fluids, parts or such, and just charging labor. I haven't done enough wrench work to even want to think about tackling this job. Most I've done is oil changes, battery swaps, replacing a starter on my old Hyundai, and replacing a fuel line on the Hyundai.
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 17:52 |
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toplitzin posted:Ok so combing the post and whats on that table, here is what I have come up with,
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 17:56 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 10:44 |
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I know for some of the later models it's specially formulated and you only change it once every 100K miles. And also you can't mix it with other coolants. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/the-new-subaru-super-coolant-used-in-the-service-and-repair-of-your-new-subaru/
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# ? Feb 8, 2010 18:45 |