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Well, I wouldn't spend money on a benchtop jointer unless I got it used for less than a hundred bucks. Yes, you'll want bigger. I bought a 6" and moved to an 8". This is anecdotal, but I wish for larger than 8" all the time. I like wide boards though. A jointer isn't a stand alone. You'll need to get a planer as well. Jointer flattens one face and one edge, but can't make the opposite face and edge parallel. For that you'll need a planer for the other face and a table saw for the other edge. Oh yeah, you can joint boards longer than the tables but it's a pain in the rear end. The longer the board is the more you really need to make some sort of leveled support. I think your just better off waiting and buying a 6" or 8" stand jointer and a lunchbox planer. You could save for a table saw, buy that, use pre-surfaced lumber (expensive as gently caress) while saving for the jointer and planer. Maybe even get one of the two in one jointer planers if space is an issue. You'll probably be annoyed playing transformers with it though. Edit: Bandsaw stuff: http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf http://thewoodwhisperer.com/bandsaw-setup-tuneup/ Never used smaller bandsaws so I dunno how that applies. Should be pretty much universal. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 1, 2010 |
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Feb 1, 2010 23:12
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Funny, that. I just scored an old table saw and jointer on craigslist last night. The thing is built like a battleship, so there's zero vibration. And it came as one item, with a cart that holds the jointer off to the side of the table saw, dropped down out of the way. Super excited about all of that. They won't be the last of these items I buy, for certain, but they'll last me a good long while until I have a more substantial shop. And for the price, it was a sure thing.  Spent the morning avoiding work and watching youtube videos on tablesaw and jointer maintenance instead 
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Feb 1, 2010 23:27
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Thanks for saving me $300 dudes. I'm currently building a bed out of red oak from Lowe's. I can't wait to live in a city with a lumber yard and have a garage that can contain a planar and jointer. My kreg kit comes in tomorrow. Can't wait.
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Feb 2, 2010 04:50
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About to start in earnest the construction of my poker table. One of my friends does leather upholstery (everything from car seats to motorcycle seats to bags to you name it) and he's going to do the wrist pad for this thing in leather for me. I'll pay for the materials, he'll contribute the labor cause he's a nice guy.  Anyhow, because of that, I'm going to construct the substrate for said rail before anything else, so I can hand that off to him so he can work his magic at his leisure. Here's my plan for the substrate. It'll consist of 8 identical pieces, each piece being symmetric if you flip it lengthwise. Don't mind the holes in each piece, those are for attaching the rail to the actual table.  sketchup file is here My notion is just to use a dado to make the massively overlapping rabbet. I'll just set the miter to 45°, position the fence so that the furthest right I can put the piece will make the inner-most cut, and work in towards that until my piece butts up against the fence. Is this correct?
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Feb 2, 2010 05:12
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Bad Munki posted:My notion is just to use a dado to make the massively overlapping rabbet. I'll just set the miter to 45°, position the fence so that the furthest right I can put the piece will make the inner-most cut, and work in towards that until my piece butts up against the fence. Is this correct? Your "massively overlapping rabbet" is actually called a "mitered half-lap". I'm not saying your method isn't correct, but if it were me, I'd go with one of these two methods instead. Here is an easy method to cutting them with a router: http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/MiteredHalfLap.html Here is a woodsmith video showing how to make a jig to get repeatable accuracy using just a regular table saw blade. One thing about that video to keep in mind is that your laps are going to be much larger than what they are cutting, so be careful in the placement of the screws of the jig. If you tried to use his jig to cut your laps, you'd run the blade right into one of the screws. http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/167/videos/mitered-half-lap-joints/
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Feb 2, 2010 08:55
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ChaoticSeven posted:You could save for a table saw, buy that, use pre-surfaced lumber (expensive as gently caress) while saving for the jointer and planer. In my situation, I don't have room for anything that isn't portable, nor do I have a ton of money. I was looking at these two on CL: ( I'm not a brand whore, they just both look like good deals) http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/1539783961.html http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/1551523039.html I am waiting on an email response to the model# of the planer. Would this be better than nothing.. or should I not waste my money and just wait until I have the space for bigger?
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Feb 2, 2010 15:24
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SkunkDuster posted:Your "massively overlapping rabbet" is actually called a "mitered half-lap". I'm not saying your method isn't correct, but if it were me, I'd go with one of these two methods instead. Thanks. I'm not sure I can push my blade up to a full 4", which is what I would need, but if I can, I like that method. And I could go the router route (heh) as well, but for the number of these things I have to do, it sounds like a huge hassle...2 half laps per piece, 8 pieces per table, 2 tables...that's a boatload of routing.
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Feb 2, 2010 16:15
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Bad Munki posted:My notion is just to use a dado to make the massively overlapping rabbet. I'll just set the miter to 45°, position the fence so that the furthest right I can put the piece will make the inner-most cut, and work in towards that until my piece butts up against the fence. Is this correct? I always did this backwards. I'd make the shoulder cut first and then back the piece away from the fence. If you can avoid it, don't run the edge against the fence. Clamp a piece of scrap to the fence that doesn't go all the way to the blade. That way the workpiece only contacts the miter-gauge and blade. My friend Arden, a high-school shop teacher, always told me this is an important safety rule to avoid thrown debris. Since you're doing it on a miter your piece will not only be trying to twist on you, but also slide. Just a warning I guess. Barn Owl fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Feb 2, 2010 |
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Feb 2, 2010 16:50
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Yeah, I figured I'd work in from the end. That way there'd never be any wood to pinch between the blade and the fence. Good point on the twisting, though.
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Feb 2, 2010 16:58
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Carta posted:In my situation, I don't have room for anything that isn't portable, nor do I have a ton of money. I'd look up the models on Amazon or elsewhere to make sure they aren't death traps or anything, and it looks like that's what you're doing. It looks as though both are around half off new price and in great shape soooo...For around $250 to get my foot in the door, yeah I'd go for it. Since the price is decent you could probably sell them for similar later on if you want to upgrade.
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Feb 3, 2010 04:22
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Even at half off I don't think they are worth their shortcomings, according to the many many many reviews I read last night. I'll just continue saving and wait for something worthwhile.
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Feb 3, 2010 15:10
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My dresser was nearly complete... .. when I decided I didn't like it. My lack of written plans or even knowing what I was doing in the beginning made it slowly become bigger and bigger. I am very happy with the width and height, but I kept adding things on which made it have more and more depth. I completely disassembled everything except the drawers, and I'm going to start over with all the wood I saved. I plan on doing edge glues for the sides, and routing grooves for my shelf supports to sit in. The drawers will have to be taken apart and cut down in length, but the face will stay the same size. The top will be re-used as is. I believe doing all this will make it much studier as well. I had so many funky joints that it was wobbly. Plus now I have a saw that can cut an actual 90, and a router. I also realized I made the jig to make all my drawer handles wrong, which would have resulted in 14 crooked handles. I'm going to return all the unopened ones and make my own wooden pulls, which I think will look better anyway. The ones I chose ended up looking way to small. This has been quite the learning experience so far, and I'm glad I'm re doing it correctly. ( Or at least.. more..correctly? ) Oh and never use HD/Lowes pine. Ever.
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Feb 4, 2010 03:39
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Does OSB count as wood? I made a simple DIY shed, and used OSB in lieu of plywood to save money. In retrospect, I should have at least used plywood for the floor because I predict the OSB floor will start to de-laminate before summer hits and it stops raining so much. Any suggestions on how to protect the floor? Worst case scenario I can just cover the OSB floor with 1/2 plywood, but I was also toying with the idea of spray painting a small 32"x24" door mat at the entrance, which seems to taking the brunt of the floor damage. I have some left over spray on bedliner from a speaker box I was going to use. I was also going to post this in the project megathread, but was waiting to get some picks up first.
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Feb 4, 2010 16:03
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Great thread! You guys are making some fantastic projects! I'm looking at getting into this hobby a bit, I'm sure it will bite me hard since I had a good time just making a simple shelf for our flat screen on the bedroom dresser with DVD and sat box slots. Quick question, does anyone have experience with the Woodcraft stores? ( http://www.woodcraft.com/ )We have one close and they offer some pretty nice classes at what I feel are reasonable rates. The 'beginner' class is a little expensive but it seems a good place to re-start. I just have the boy scout experience. We did some pretty great projects, one of the dads had a impressive workshop but it's been years. Thanks for any advice for re-starting this fantastic hobby, I'll be back later for more advice.
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Feb 4, 2010 18:08
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uwimage posted:
I think the quality of Woodcraft depends a lot on the quality of the people employed there. My Woodcraft is really great, the guys are helpful and always have plenty of advice. They're not pushy and in my limited experience, don't seem interested in getting me to buy the most expensive thing there (example: last week I stopped in to check out a Leigh D4R in person and the sales guy suggested I seriously consider the cheaper SuperJig). Prices aren't always great, but if you watch for sales you can sometimes get pretty good deals. Even if it's more than I'd pay online, I don't mind buying stuff there because the local expertise is worth the cost to me. I found a one year old, 5HP, LT Unisaw on Craigslist today - the guy wants $800 for it. I'm half tempted to drive out there and take a look at it since I don't have to work Saturday now, but I keep telling myself A) I don't have room to store it and B)When I do buy my own tablesaw it's going to be a SawStop. Boy that price is right though...
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Feb 4, 2010 23:39
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Reggie Died posted:Does OSB count as wood? According to Wikipedia wikipedia posted:Different qualities in terms of thickness, panel size, strength, and rigidity can be imparted to the OSB by changes in the manufacturing process. OSB panels have no internal gaps or voids, and are water-resistant, although they do require additional membranes to achieve impermeability to water and are not recommended for exterior use. The finished product has similar properties to plywood, but is uniform and cheaper.[1] It has replaced plywood in many environments, especially the North American structural panel market. The most common uses are as sheathing in walls, floors, and roofs. It would appear that it is OK to use as floor sheathing, but requires membrane support. While I am not a carpenter, but a carpentry student, I would say that simply putting plywood over potentially rotting floor would not be your smart choice. Same for painting bedliner over it, unless you caught it right away before the water gets to set in. Did you frame your walls over top of the floor sheathing, or did you sheath-in after the wall sill was in place? If you did sheath after the sill was places, then you would have no worries at all, because you can just rip the lovely old OSB floor out. If not, then you got some problems. For every shed I have seen built, they have used tongue and grove for the floor. I would say that your best course of action right now would be prevention, and preservation, and not covering over the problem. Talk to your building supply and see if they sell some sort of product to treat OSB floors. Edit: And for the love of god, if you are going to start playing around with vapor and water prevention plastics, DO NOT skip steps. Don't just slap one layer of plastic on and leave it. Think about ventilation on the other side of the plastic, or other protective membrane, and where that vapor will go. Once again, contact your local building supply and they will hook you up. johnners fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Feb 8, 2010 |
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Feb 8, 2010 03:38
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Sup fellow apprentice. I just built the shed, and sheated the floor joists with the OSB before standing the walls. So yes, the bottom plate is sitting on the OSB. The floor's not Fubared yet, but given the constant rain we get in Vancouver, I'm wanting to protect it now before it starts to de-laminate.
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Feb 8, 2010 04:10
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What do you have the shed sitting on? I am assuming deck blocks. It just seems to me that a preservative product might be what you are looking for. The real problem is getting at the underside of the floor. You could put 10 layers of tar on the top, but if the bottom is exposed to damp west coast, then you are still goning get hosed. Also, what did you make your rim joists/floor joists out of. And this is a really stupid response, because this is only a utility shed, but call your building inspector/ check the NBC/ other local carpenters and just ask what he would do in that situation. I think the one hurdle we have to get over is, is the cost. It can still be inexpensive, but i think trying to cheap out here might be killing us. Then again, maybe you only want this shed to last a few years. I would just be afriad of insects/rodents enjoying the damp wood. ps. I am from Nova Scotia, taking Heritage Carpentry trough NSCC. Sup Can-carp-goon.
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Feb 8, 2010 05:22
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Floor joists are pressure treated 2x6's, but your right, I never thought of protecting the underside of the subfloor. There's no way I'm getting it now, but something to think about for the next one I build.
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Feb 8, 2010 06:08
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I'm the guy from before looking to get into all-or-most handtool woodworking (pending finding out whether I'm moving soon). Can anyone recommend which tools are best NOT to get used? I have a feeling chisels and planes are among them, since I'll be using them so extensively and they need to be sharp. I don't know about handsaws, or how they stand up to wear, but a nice sharp one of those might also be good. Other than that, I imagine most things would be just fine used. Advice?
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Feb 8, 2010 18:23
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I would say it all depends on the price. I can't stress this enough... If you want to do all hand tool woodworking, and this is true for ALL hand or power tools, really, but especially for planes and chisels. Learn how to properly sharpen them, and well. Learn a little about steels and tempers. If the temper's been lost on a chisel, it can be restored. If it isn't sharp, it can be sharpened. If it's rusty, that can be fixed (Depending on severity). If the plane adjustment is sticky, it can be taken apart and cleaned. You get the idea. To be honest when it comes to hand tools for woodworking, the older the better, generally speaking. Just use your common sense when looking them over. Personally, I love collecting old, used tools, because frankly, sometimes they are better then what's offered brand new today. (For example, see the my thread in this forum about my lathe, or the infamous tractor thread.) Edit: When it comes to planes and chisels, often the steels used in the old ones have better chemistry then the new steels, unless you pay a very high price for it. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Feb 8, 2010 |
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Feb 8, 2010 18:29
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I have to imagine that getting those "sharp" tools used would still be okay as long as they aren't damaged. Besides, if you do even a moderate amount, you will have to learn to sharpen them well, so it's not like buying a somewhat dulled tool would actually be a loss. Lemons->lemonade, and all that.
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Feb 8, 2010 18:31
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Right, I've been told I'll need to sharpen them all the time anyway. I'm planning on getting a water stone. I was just worried about getting used ones that someone just let go for too long, or abused or something. But if you think older tends to be more reliable, maybe it's worth looking for old ones that didn't get abused? Tricky thing is, since I'm inexperienced, I wouldn't know how to tell if they'd been abused. Would it be obvious?
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Feb 8, 2010 19:27
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Look at the steel. Is it just surface rust, or is it bad corrosion and pitted? Obviously the former isn't an issue. Is anything cracked of physically broken? Did someone use it as a cold chisel trying to a cut a keyway on a hardened steel shaft at 2 AM when the tool store and machine shop were closed? Does the bottom of the plane have deep gouges where it was dropped? How flat does the bottom of the plane look? It can be honed a little bit to make it true, but you don't want to grind off 1/16" of metal or anything. Really, most of the time, it's just a matter of cleaning it up, sharpening it, on planes maybe doing some painting and lubricating the moving parts. Make new handles, etc. None of this is really hard... just a little time consuming, but it's worth the effort, and you'll also have a better understanding of them, and will be more likely to take good care of them then if you bought a new tool. Most rust can be removed from old tools with some 400 grit wet/dry paper and kerosene, or other mild solvent to wet the sandpaper. After the rust is gone, you can polish it as much as you desire too. Sometimes you can use a wire wheel on a bench grinder, however you may not have one, and you don't want to get that near a cutting edge. Also it will leave a different finish on the metal then if you use the sandpaper. In addition to the water stone, you are going to want some coarser stones that remove more metal. When you deal with used tools, they will be incredibly dull, and have some minor dings in the cutting edge. That's not a problem, but you'll be there for 100 years if the only thing you have is a water stone.  Safety tip: Never use anything with a sharp edge on a bench grinder with a wire wheel. That wheel can grab things, and you don't want things with sharp edges getting out of your control!!! Also, if you ever use a bench grinder to grind a damaged plane or chisel edge for faster removal, don't get that metal too hot! You'll want to cool it off in water frequently. If you get it too hot, you'll gently caress up the temper, and have to redo it. It shouldn't really get above 100 F degrees at all. Keep in mind, as far as your fingers are concerned, a chisel is probably the most dangerous hand tool for woodworking out there, except for maybe carving knives. Oh, and once you got your tools nice and sharp, retract the blade in the plane so it's not sticking out, and make some covers or something for the chisel edge so handling them is safer for you, and the sharp edge. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Feb 8, 2010 |
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Feb 8, 2010 19:35
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dv6speed posted:Oh, and once you got your tools nice and sharp, retract the blade in the plane so it's not sticking out, and make some covers or something for the chisel edge so handling them is safer for you, and the sharp edge. I've seen people dip chisel edges in hot wax to coat them if they don't plan on using them for a couple weeks/months. Just get an old candle, cut a pop can in half, and stick it in front of your shop heater or on top of something hot. Blow torch would work too, fast, cheap, should have one on hand anyway. It's not common though.
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Feb 8, 2010 22:59
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alnilam posted:Right, I've been told I'll need to sharpen them all the time anyway. I'm planning on getting a water stone. Get some GOOD water stones, and a honing guide.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56542&cat=1,43072,43071&ap=1 http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=51868&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1 These are what I have used for a while now, and you would be surprised with what you can do with a "lovely" plane iron or chisel. For example, as someone who uses a chisel almost everyday, I bought a cheap set of Fuller's to get me through. I have used the Lee Valley equipment, and in my opinion, I have produced a better cutting chisel than one that costs 3x's more. Protip: to check to see if your chisel is as sharp as it should be, try chiseling the end grain of a piece of soft wood with one hand. If the end grain lifts like butter, then the chisel is sharp enough. Same can be said with the plane irons. All my planes(6), except for two, have been used planes. Some were even my great grandfathers! With some time, and a lot of honing, you can get any blade back to being useful. Not to mention that finding old tools and bringing them back to life is a fun task in itself, and it adds character to your work shop. And for dangerous, I would argue that unless you are hammering the chisel towards yourself, that the spoke shave/block plane is fairly risky. When I was learning them, I lost a few layers off my thumbs.
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Feb 9, 2010 03:51
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These are also very useful fur honing planes and chisels. I have one and love it. It has a little wheel in the back that rides along the stone. Also, honing the stone it self needs to be done occasionally to keep it flat. This is usually done with an abrasive compound and a piece of glass. 
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Feb 9, 2010 05:30
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My advice would be to avoid using honing guides on waterstones. Waterstones are very soft, you will easily and quickly start developing a track where the wheel of your guide runs, and will end up having to re-flatten your stones much more often. Stick with the waterstones and hone by hand, or buy a set of diamond plates, and use those with the guide. Or if you're feeling smart, buy a coarse diamond stone, so you can hone your main angle with the guide. Then use a fine waterstone (or two) to get it up to hair shaving sharpness.
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Feb 9, 2010 21:46
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My first project in 1" cherry was an unmitigated failure (since it was so thick and I was cutting by hand, being slightly off in my cuts made each panel skewed when viewed from above). I want to try again, and my Dad is convincing me to get a whole bunch of cheap construction lumber and use that instead of relatively hard-to-work and expensive hardwood. Is this a good/bad idea? I will be using any pieces in my workshop initially, so more for functionality rather than display initially...
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Feb 9, 2010 22:13
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Once again I have to plug the scary sharp method. I wound up getting a polished marble floor tile from Lowes for ~$2.00 that works great as a flat base.
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Feb 9, 2010 22:14
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mcrandello posted:Once again I have to plug the scary sharp method. I wound up getting a polished marble floor tile from Lowes for ~$2.00 that works great as a flat base. I read about that years ago when I was building my first guitar on the musical instrument makers forum. I picked up a tile and a ton of sandpaper and spent about 2 days fixing and sharpening my dad's inherieted collection of planes and spokeshaves and chisels. The method is absolutely incredible. I had to bring the flat back on the backs and the planes of every single blade, as they'd been sharpened for 20 to 60 years by hand or with makeshift wood jigs on questionable wetstones.
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Feb 9, 2010 22:47
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Waterstones will wear a valley regardless. For someone who may not be used to hand-honing, I think the guide would be a valuable asset. If your stone does get a valley, which it will, you just have to true it up again on a lapping stone. Really, it isn't the end of the world, and it is part of the sharpening game. For the OSB floor, I did some more research today and its true, the floor is hosed. There is VERY little to do to save the situation expect to take a reciprocating saw and cut out what you can, and sheath in the floor the correct way. My instructor said that if you are dead against this idea, you could put tar paper on the bottom of the floor, as that allows ventilation but not water penetration. This will only be a temporary fix though, as the floor will continue to fall apart.
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Feb 10, 2010 00:41
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Jagtpanther posted:
I've been making stuff out of S4S pine.. which can be had pretty cheap at HD/Lowes, or if you have a local lumber yard that carries it. There is no way I could be trying so many different things if I was buying hardwood. I don't have a jointer or planer right now, so if I was to buy hardwood it would have to be S2S-S4S nominal stock, which is crazy expensive. I pay .75 cents per linear foot for good quality 1x8 S4S pine.. where as at my local hardwood dealer I would be paying 5.45/lf for 1x8 S4S cherry, or $3.50 for oak. The wood is softer, not as pretty as some hardwoods.. but if you are just starting out ( like me ) I think its worth it to be able to make more things to in turn get more experiance. Once I have a jointer and planer I'm going to start making things out of hardwood.. but it will be just small things like boxes and cutting boards until I can afford to try bigger projects. If you do end up trying S4S pine, look for lumberyards that sell it and compare prices with Lowes or Home Depot. If you have to go the HD/Lowes route.. be prepared to spend a LOT of time picking out wood. 95% of the boards there have a major bend, cup, or twist.. where as all the wood from my local yard is near perfect.
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Feb 10, 2010 02:24
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To add to the cheaper wood discussion poplar can be pretty cheap, machines easily, and can have some nice grain if you don't mind a slight greenish tint to it. Though I've found a good portion of the green goes away once you put a coat of sanding sealer on it.
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Feb 10, 2010 03:39
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I've finally finished designing the dresser/changing table I'm going to build for my sister. Before I start planing wood, I thought I'd toss it up here for some feedback, since I've never made a dresser before. It's a frame and panel design with a face frame on the front. It'll end up being slightly higher than a standard countertop, which should be a comfortable height at which to change a baby. Here are a couple Solidworks renders - note that I've left off the plywood panels on the sides and back - this makes assembling everything much easier for me.  Click here for the full 1358x1038 image.  Click here for the full 1358x1038 image. Now mostly I'm concerned with the drawers since I've never made anything with drawers before. I was going to go the easy (ha!) route and use full extension drawer slides but the more I thought about it the more I thought they don't really belong in a dresser. So instead the drawers will glide on UHMW strips that I'll put on the drawer runners on the side. To guide the drawers I've got 3/4inch strips on either side, with another 3/4 inch strip above them so they can't tip forward too much when they're opened (you can see that more in the back view). I'll add a swivel tab on the backs of the drawers so they can't come all the way out accidentally. The opening in the face frame is 6.5x27 - the drawer boxes are going to be 6 x 26.5 - is that too big? I'm not planning on a center drawer guide, should I make them wider? I don't want the drawers to be impossible to open, but I don't want them shifting all over the place either. Edit: After looking at a couple of plans, I think I'm going to make them at least a quarter inch wider and and a quarter inch taller. The extra width will help keep things looking right since they're overlay drawer fronts and the extra height will keep the drawers more horizontal when fully opened. The only thing I still need to lay out is the "fence" on the top of the dresser so my new niece doesn't go a rolling off the top when she's being changed. For whatever reason my copy of Solidworks isn't running well on my PC here, so I'm just going to go in early tomorrow and do it on my workstation there. Hopefully I don't have to work this weekend and I can start planing the cherry for it. I won't have a ton of panels to glue up this time, but I think the amount of time I'm going to spend ripping stock will more than make up for it. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 12, 2010 |
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Feb 12, 2010 00:38
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I'm having trouble locating a suitable piece of wood for my project, wondering if someone knew of a place. The dimensions I need are at minimum 10" length x 3" high x 4" deep of something workable. The trouble I'm having is I'm looking for 'exotic' wood I guess, some sort of burl I think. (mapleburl, figured asian satinwood, mappa, camphor, umthunzi, eucalyptus, amboyna, etc.) I'd be open to more kinds if they looked nice. I know it's a fairly decent size block but I don't really want to pay 125$ for it
poxin fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Feb 12, 2010 |
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Feb 12, 2010 05:46
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poxin posted:I'm having trouble locating a suitable piece of wood for my project, wondering if someone knew of a place. The dimensions I need are at minimum 10" length x 3" high x 4" deep of something workable. Thats thick stuff your talking about. Add in the fact you're looking for figured or burl and you get high prices. You might check out gilmerwood.com. Maybe send them an e-mail or give a call. I got my digital fence set up on my cabinet saw today. Hello ridiculous accuracy: 
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Feb 13, 2010 20:48
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Where are you located? If you can find a local lumber yard it will be cheaper if just for the fact that you don't have to pay shipping. Plus you can look through a whole stack of wood and find just what you are looking for, rather than relying on pictures. http://www.woodfinder.com/ Put your zip code in there and it will tell you the closest lumberyards.
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Feb 13, 2010 21:06
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Okay, I'm affixing an apron to the perimeter of a poker table. I have a hunch that using my kreg jig to join the angles will be easiest/most solid. I'll be joining them at a 45° angle. Anyhow, here's an example of what I'm after: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoCr6L3X8OQ My question is, once I've got those two pieces screwed together, how do I go about nicking off the protruding corner that is produced in their example jig? i.e. How do I go from this:  To this?  Note that in the second picture, the corner of the piece at 45° has been cut off somehow to be flush with the other pieces, instead of sticking past it like it does while in the jig. It seems that trying to cut if off on a table saw would be imprecise at best, and I can't imagine how to run a router along there since it's at 45°.
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Feb 14, 2010 01:28
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, I'm affixing an apron to the perimeter of a poker table. I have a hunch that using my kreg jig to join the angles will be easiest/most solid. I'll be joining them at a 45° angle. Rough chisel and sand down? Jointer?  Futzing with the blade height and fences and poo poo on the table saw is the most precise method I can think of off-hand, though.
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Feb 14, 2010 09:21
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