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ShaneB posted:Anyone know if most Onkyo amplifiers have a mode that will just spit out full-dynamic range stereo sound to the front speakers and disable everything else, including the sub? I'd love to have a "music" mode that did this. There's a stereo mode which is just front speakers and subwoofers, but nothing without the sub, on my 507 at least. You can go into the menu and turn off the sub there, or just flick the switch on the sub itself, which is what I often do.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:25
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The Flying Clog Wog posted:There's a stereo mode which is just front speakers and subwoofers, but nothing without the sub, on my 507 at least. You can go into the menu and turn off the sub there, or just flick the switch on the sub itself, which is what I often do. Will that send full-range information to the speakers, though? Also, does Audyssy or however you spell it disable itself in Stereo mode?
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Jan 28, 2010 17:35
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I am planning on building a pair of Microbe XT and the sub in TyroneShoes thread. I need to buy a receiver. I will only be listening to music from my computer, so I don't need any 5.1 or any special processing and only two inputs (computer and Ipod). Are there any good 2.1 amps on the cheap for this setup? Also the sub has Dayton SA240-B amp. I was reading that since it has 'high level inputs' I can jump off of the speaker without quality loss. If that is true I would only need a 2ch receiver right?
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Jan 28, 2010 18:35
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ShaneB posted:Will that send full-range information to the speakers, though? Also, does Audyssy or however you spell it disable itself in Stereo mode? My 606 has "direct" mode which is what you are looking for. No subwoofer involved; stereo sound being sent only to the front two speakers with no DSP.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:25
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My dad is concerned with the subwoofer of his sound system (Sony DAVHDX285) interfering with a TV, and damaging it. I looked around, and I can see that the center channel is definitely shielded, and I think all the other speakers are too, but I don't see any mention for it anywhere for the sub. Is this sub protected? Does it even need to be? Would it harm an LCD TV? Is it safe for this sub to sit directly behind a TV?
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Jan 28, 2010 23:59
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Revol posted:My dad is concerned with the subwoofer of his sound system (Sony DAVHDX285) interfering with a TV, and damaging it. I looked around, and I can see that the center channel is definitely shielded, and I think all the other speakers are too, but I don't see any mention for it anywhere for the sub. Magnets only ever harmed CRT TVs. He's fine. Even if it wasn't shielded at all he would be fine.
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Jan 29, 2010 00:09
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I am building a bar/lounge area in my basement along with a DJ rig and some fairly hefty pro audio to match it. During construction I'll be removing & building new walls. I am wanting to soundproof the basement as much as possible to 1. keep the neighbors happy & 2. Give the area a little more crisp sound. What would be the best way of going about this? Most walls will be simple drywall, however I do have one cement wall. I'd like to try to avoid covering my entire basement in black acoustic foam but is that really my only option? The ceiling is currently some crappy removable tiles that I'm thinking of removing & stuffing the space above with foam & more insulation. I'll end up painting them black for aesthetic purposes. Does anyone offer a sound deadening ceiling tile? Any ideas guys, thoughts? Thank you in advance. I'm looking forward to starting the project 
Synapsis fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Jan 30, 2010 |
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Jan 30, 2010 05:41
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Synapsis posted:I am building a bar/lounge area in my basement along with a DJ rig and some fairly hefty pro audio to match it. During construction I'll be removing & building new walls. I am wanting to soundproof the basement as much as possible to 1. keep the neighbors happy & 2. Give the area a little more crisp sound. Are your basement walls all concrete?
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Jan 30, 2010 07:10
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evilalien posted:My 606 has "direct" mode which is what you are looking for. No subwoofer involved; stereo sound being sent only to the front two speakers with no DSP. I did this last night, and good god do my speakers have lovely range.
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Jan 30, 2010 21:47
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Bateau posted:Recently I bit the bullet on a new HDTV and with great picture comes desire for decent sound. I have a pair of JBL HLS-620 speakers that have done well by me in stereo setup. What could match them up with to get to 5.1 without selling an organ? I was looking at Denon AVR-1910 to drive the setup, listening room is about 13'x11' rectangle. Consider the lower-end Denon AVR-1610 since you are not going for 7.1 anyway. Unless you really need video upscaling (most people can get this from their player or TV anyway) and analog surround input. See OP of the relevant AVS thread for more details on the differences.
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Feb 1, 2010 12:41
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What's the smallest/cheapest mixer I can get my hands on? My only purpose is when two people want to play their ipods at a party, and would like some crossfading between changing sources. If there is a Y cable with some sort of crossfading knob in the middle, I'd be happy.
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Feb 1, 2010 18:09
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Bouchacha posted:What's the smallest/cheapest mixer I can get my hands on? You could probably get an awful 2 or 4 channel deal at radio shack for 50 bucks Or you could get a super-low end DJ mixer from a place like guitar center for about the same price
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Feb 1, 2010 18:51
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Bouchacha posted:What's the smallest/cheapest mixer I can get my hands on?
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Feb 1, 2010 19:28
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I'm looking to record some interviews here fairly soon, so I've been looking at portable recorders. the interviews will probably go for at least an hour or more, so battery life and recording length should be considered. If possible I'd like good sounding audio that is relatively easy to transfer/manipulate. Don't want to spend too much, anything over about 170 would probably be more than I need. I've been looking at the H2 Zoom portable recorder, as at the moment it looks to have really good capabilities with a lot of positive reviews at a currently great price. However, I'm worried it's still a little bit too much for me. Would I maybe be better served by something like the Olympus VN 6200PC?
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Feb 2, 2010 20:46
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I don't know about the Olympus, but you can't go wrong with the Zoom. It may even be overkill for interviews, I use it to tape music (rehearsals and stuff) and it's really amazingly good for the price.
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Feb 2, 2010 21:38
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Every radio reporter I know has dumped their trusty minidisc recorder for a Zoom H4. That said, a minidisc recorder might suit you just great. All the units I've played with have had the option to to record in mono, doubling capacity and battery life should be fine, especially if you throw some lithiums in a unit that runs on AA cells.
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Feb 2, 2010 21:50
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I would not recommend minidisc recorders (with a recording time of what,154 minutes in mono?) that use an archaic medium which I haven't seen in a store for 5 years, over a solid-state device which uses SD/SDHC cards which are cheap and common as grass these days, and can fit days of compressed audio on one chip -- particularly since MD has moving parts with all that that implies in terms of durability. Edit: OK, 320 minutes of stereo using "long play" compression. But still, you can't get it into a PC using a USB cable? Screw that. Hippie Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 10:14
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:I would not recommend minidisc recorders (with a recording time of what,154 minutes in mono?) that use an archaic medium which I haven't seen in a store for 5 years, over a solid-state device which uses SD/SDHC cards which are cheap and common as grass these days, and can fit days of compressed audio on one chip -- particularly since MD has moving parts with all that that implies in terms of durability. I really couldn't tell tell how invested the guy is in the project, so why not at least throw out what could be viable under $50 at this point? Then again, I still carry around a stack of Zip100 discs as one of my preferred audio recording mediums. (A number of TV networks, notably ESPN, still cling to the DigiCart format for sending element music out to remotes.) Later netMD players had a USB connection, but I'll admit that I've never tried it, and it may well be a real-speed connection limited to Sony software.
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Feb 3, 2010 12:21
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eddiewalker posted:I really couldn't tell tell how invested the guy is in the project, so why not at least throw out what could be viable under $50 at this point? Well at the moment it's really more for a personal project but I don't think I'd go with a format that's well on its way out. I'm hoping that if things work out I'll be using it more in the future So the mic on the Zoom H2 is good then? I was reading some reviews that were skeptical and were saying they had to get external mics for decent sound if they were moving around at all, which could potentially be a problem if I was say on the street talking to people. If it is good as most people say it is, I might as well bite the bullet and go for the best quality option.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:48
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If you're going to be in noisy environments like a street, I can't really say whether or not the H2 is appropriate. I've only used it in semi-quiet locations like office, concert hall etc. I suspect that it could work well if you lower the volume and speak closely, but I'm not sure. I guess you have no chance to try before you buy?
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Feb 4, 2010 14:56
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Alright, I'll bear that in mind. Thanks
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Feb 4, 2010 19:36
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I rescued an old Tannoy subwoofer right before it went in the garbage. I brought it home and plugged it into a Crown amp I have and it sounded pretty decent, but I don't have any way to filter out the mids or high ends so I was getting some of those coming through as well. Right now I have my PC running into a Crown amplifier which goes to two Tannoy Reveal monitors, but since I don't have a surround sound system for my TV I'd like to add the sub to the system. I suppose the easiest way would be to use the bass management setting in my sound card to split the low frequencies off to the sub and just run that output to an additional power amp that runs to the sub. Is there a better option I'm missing? Also, the sub seems setup with a jack for each of the two speakers. Is running a stereo connection from my computer to the 2 channel amp and then running individual speaker wire runs from the amp to each of the sub speakers preferable in this case?
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Feb 6, 2010 23:20
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What you want is an inline Low Pass Filter, they use them in car audio a lot. I found some here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uphm6IerYug/g_82600/Crossovers.html
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Feb 7, 2010 02:28
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I have a harman/kardon 330c stereo receiver and the right audio channel isn't working. How do I fix this / how much will this cost to be fixed
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Feb 9, 2010 04:26
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stupid little gayby posted:I have a harman/kardon 330c stereo receiver and the right audio channel isn't working. How do I fix this / how much will this cost to be fixed My car won't start. What's wrong with it?
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Feb 9, 2010 05:40
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eddiewalker posted:My car won't start. What's wrong with it? Hey sorry, I know that wasn't much information, but I know nothing about this stuff, I told you everything I know. I posted a lovely phone picture and a few more words in the vintage equipment thread, but nothing else I didn't say here.
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Feb 9, 2010 05:51
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My point still stands. It could be some massive failure that would cost more in parts and labor for a repair shop to fix than the unit is worth, or it could be a some simple weak wire connection that eventually fatigued enough to come loose. There's really no way for anyone to say over the internet.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:29
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Could just be a blown fuse, too. Crack it open, take a look.
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Feb 9, 2010 17:01
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So it's getting to be that time where I finally suck it up and buy a sub. I have a single major issue though: my landlady lives right beneath me. As such I am definitely not looking for maximum volume per dollar. I guess using audio weenie terms I'd like a more "musical" sub mostly for low to mid-volume games, TV and music. My speakers are Definitive Promonitor 1000s so they could definitely use a little extension. I know about the major online companies like Hsu, SVS and Elemental, are there any I'm missing? Should I be looking for sealed or ported? I also have no way to build one myself. My budget is sub-$500, preferably sub-$400. One other question: is the direction the woofer fires in [down vs. side] going to make any difference in terms of annoying people downstairs?
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Feb 9, 2010 22:54
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I'm adding 5.1 surround to three rooms in a new home (master bedroom, standard bedroom, and living room). Our sub-contractor is offering me the choice between the following brands, and I'm trying to determine if I should order through him or get something online. Anyone know anything about these brands or if I should just purchase something entirely different on my own? If so, any recommendations on a 6.5" speaker for all 5 surround sound in-ceiling speakers? Proficient Audio (not sure which model) 6.5" LTR 8-12 ohms 200w (I didn't see any model that met this description, so I'm guessing it's actually 175w) $145 / ea Destination Audio (not sure which model) 6.5" 8-12 ohms 100w 115 / ea
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Feb 10, 2010 02:21
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qirex posted:So it's getting to be that time where I finally suck it up and buy a sub. I have a single major issue though: my landlady lives right beneath me. As such I am definitely not looking for maximum volume per dollar. I guess using audio weenie terms I'd like a more "musical" sub mostly for low to mid-volume games, TV and music. My speakers are Definitive Promonitor 1000s so they could definitely use a little extension. I know about the major online companies like Hsu, SVS and Elemental, are there any I'm missing? Should I be looking for sealed or ported? I also have no way to build one myself. First, I'd consider looking at studio subs if you're primarily concerned with even, musical response. I like KRK's 10" very much, perhaps their 12" even falls into your budget, I don't know. Second, theater extension needs to be 20hzish (threshold of human hearing and used a lot as the rumble frequency for explosions, atmosphere, etc.), but a lot of studio subs go for musical extension which is 40hzish (fundamental of a kick drum); well, that's oversimplifying, most will extend down to 30-35hz but part of their tuning is for maximum linearity at a certain output range and that means sacrificing overall frequency response. Compare to something like the sub I added to my setup, the Sony SA-W3000 12". While this was a surprisingly good subwoofer for the money - I don't think I could hope to match its quality building my own, the hallmark of the low-priced market - it definitely doesn't have nearly the same linearity or distinctness that you'd want for music listening. It gets low and it gets loud, without being just farty one-note rubbish, but it's a far cry from accurate bass. I have my receiver crossing it over at 50hz so it just handles the really lows, since my speakers have a great response down into the midbass and bass frequencies, they just don't pump out sub frequencies. For your budget, you can expect better than that. Look for a studio monitor subwoofer with respectable power output and reliably low extension. Balance the extension requirements with your preference for music or movies. Also, down-firing will probably annoy your downstairs neighbors more, but any real sub-bass, regardless of the direction of the woofer, is going to travel to every adjacent room whether you happen to be renting them or not. Be prepared for that. The lower your bass extension with commensurate power, the more easily it will penetrate walls. Just how low frequencies work. My studio sub sounds great in the room, extension down to abut 35hz, you can barely hear it outside even when I'm cranking it - maybe 10-15 feet away before it might as well be inaudible. That inexpensive Sony sub I linked earlier is way more audible outside the house; luckily I don't have neighbors on either side or I'd have to watch my volume at night. The low frequencies just travel through walls like nothing.
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Feb 10, 2010 03:26
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qirex posted:So it's getting to be that time where I finally suck it up and buy a sub. I have a single major issue though: my landlady lives right beneath me. As such I am definitely not looking for maximum volume per dollar. I guess using audio weenie terms I'd like a more "musical" sub mostly for low to mid-volume games, TV and music. My speakers are Definitive Promonitor 1000s so they could definitely use a little extension. I know about the major online companies like Hsu, SVS and Elemental, are there any I'm missing? Should I be looking for sealed or ported? I also have no way to build one myself. Not sure how your area is for used gear, but I always seem to see lots of great used sub deals on clist, canuckaudiomart, audiogon, etc. I set myself up with a used B&W asw300 about a year ago and I am very happy with it. A good sub really adds to a 2 channel system imo. Although if I was to do it again today, I might look at setting up dual subs and running them in left/right channel. Placing them out by each front channel speaker. I still have a few bass nulls in my room atm with the single sub. Would you run your sub blending in beneath your mains, or cross them over at some freq?
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Feb 10, 2010 21:07
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I have a related question... I am slowly upgrading my speakers of my 5.1 setup, but am uncertain how to go about doing this correctly. Right now I have an Onkyo HTIB, and the powered subwoofer is driven by a single composite-style output from the amp and the speakers are all connected to the amp, meaning the amp is determining the crossover points and all that. I'd like to first replace the L/R, and have a lead on a great looking pair of Paradigm Monitor 7's from the late 90s/early 00s that I'm going to get for $350, and soon find a center that will match well and still fit in my small living area. How do I get the sub to integrate into this at all? Does it matter, as it's going to just be low bass? I currently use the Audyssey setup, which sent tones from each speaker and I'd guess determined levels and delays for each speaker, but I'm not sure about crossover-type stuff related to the subwoofer. Any advice would be welcome.
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Feb 10, 2010 21:16
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Doc Spratley posted:Not sure how your area is for used gear, but I always seem to see lots of great used sub deals on clist, canuckaudiomart, audiogon, etc. I would cross them over, my receiver has pretty sophisticated bass management and my fronts only have 5-1/2" drivers.
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Feb 10, 2010 22:00
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I'm pretty sure I saw something posted about this somewhere on SA, but as I can't remember what it was called or where I read about it, searching is somewhat difficult. I'm looking for a system that an iPod can be plugged into, but which bypasses the iPod's DAC. It's to play lossless audio in better quality than the iPod is able to output. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? I'm not entirely sure, myself.
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Feb 11, 2010 10:59
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qirex posted:So it's getting to be that time where I finally suck it up and buy a sub. I have a single major issue though: my landlady lives right beneath me. As such I am definitely not looking for maximum volume per dollar. I guess using audio weenie terms I'd like a more "musical" sub mostly for low to mid-volume games, TV and music. My speakers are Definitive Promonitor 1000s so they could definitely use a little extension. I know about the major online companies like Hsu, SVS and Elemental, are there any I'm missing? Should I be looking for sealed or ported? I also have no way to build one myself. I have the same speakers. I went with a Martin Logan Dynamo (original version): http://www.amazon.com/MartinLogan-DYNBLD-Dynamo-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000FIJA6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1265890128&sr=8-1 . It fits the description you gave of what you want quite well. It's sealed, "musical," and can be used down-firing OR front firing by adjusting it on the base. Down-firing will almost certainly annoy people downstairs. I use mine in a front-firing configuration and haven't heard a peep about it.
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Feb 11, 2010 13:14
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OK, got those Paradigm Monitor 7's last night. Unfortunately, they just don't have the same "life" as they did on even the budget NAD gear at the hi-fi store. I'm concerned that my amp just doesn't have the balls to drive them, even though they don't seem like they should need THAT much power to drive based on their numbers. I have to turn it to about 80-85% of max volume to get any real bass out of them, which makes the SPLs kind of high in my little living room. They are set up for bi-wiring, but right now I just have a little jumper wire going from the low-end terminals to the high-end terminals. I don't really get the physics behind bi-wiring at all, is this something that can actually make a difference? Running two cables from a single speaker terminal on the amp and connecting them to two different terminals on the speaker... I just don't get how that would improve power transfer? EDIT: Apparently the skeptics (probably correct) out there just say its the same as using a larger gauge of wire. ShaneB fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Feb 11, 2010 15:27
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Creature posted:I'm pretty sure I saw something posted about this somewhere on SA, but as I can't remember what it was called or where I read about it, searching is somewhat difficult. That would be the Wadia 170iTransport.
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Feb 11, 2010 16:14
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Suqit posted:That would be the Wadia 170iTransport. Is there any cheap (like $100ish) solution that acts like a budget Squeezebox? I just want something that can stream MP3/FLAC (optional, not required) from my media server, it doesn't even need to be wireless. I would like it to have a screen, though, so I don't need to turn on my LCD every time I want to listen to digital music instead of my turntable.
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Feb 11, 2010 16:30
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ShaneB posted:Is there any cheap (like $100ish) solution that acts like a budget Squeezebox? I just want something that can stream MP3/FLAC (optional, not required) from my media server, it doesn't even need to be wireless. I would like it to have a screen, though, so I don't need to turn on my LCD every time I want to listen to digital music instead of my turntable.
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Feb 11, 2010 20:27
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