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kid sinister posted:Have you poked around the ductwork in the basement with a flashlight? Sometimes ducts will have valves that you can close off to save money on heating rooms you don't use often. Yeah, I've investigated as much as I can at this point unfortunately. There's about three feet of plain duct before it disappears into a finished basement ceiling. By luck we ran into the woman who was the owner previous-to-the-previous of our house, and according to my wife she said that room was always cold. I've looked down into the duct from the cold room to see if something had fallen in and blocked it but nope.
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Jan 30, 2010 01:33
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Wayne Gretzky posted:Yeah, I've investigated as much as I can at this point unfortunately. There's about three feet of plain duct before it disappears into a finished basement ceiling. By luck we ran into the woman who was the owner previous-to-the-previous of our house, and according to my wife she said that room was always cold. I've looked down into the duct from the cold room to see if something had fallen in and blocked it but nope. You could always use the hand test. Turn the thermostat on, run the furnace for a few minutes and touch the ductwork in the basement to see if you can find where the ductwork goes cold.
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Jan 30, 2010 01:52
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I'm going to be replacing the shower faucets in my bathroom. The problem is the valve coming in doesn't shut off all the way, so the line leaks. I live in a condo and there are no shut-offs for each unit. It's essentially one giant water system. Is there any way that I can repair the valve while the water is on? My only option at this point is to call in a plumber, which I don't want to do. I could shut off the main to the building, but that would piss off a lot of people. What do I do?
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Jan 31, 2010 18:48
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Have you talked to the people in the condo office, if there is one? At this point it's a community problem. The water wouldn't need to be off for long but there may already be an established procedure for this involving warning everyone the day before.
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Jan 31, 2010 18:54
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slap me silly posted:Have you talked to the people in the condo office, if there is one? At this point it's a community problem. The water wouldn't need to be off for long but there may already be an established procedure for this involving warning everyone the day before. I have not. I just discovered this today and the office isn't open on weekends. I will be calling tomorrow morning to find out what to do. Most likely they will want a certified plumber to replace the valve.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:10
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NickNails posted:I have not. I just discovered this today and the office isn't open on weekends. I will be calling tomorrow morning to find out what to do. Most likely they will want a certified plumber to replace the valve. If it's a small trickle, you can shove a piece of bread in the pipe. Old donuts work well, too. Once the valve glue sets, the water dissolves the bread.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:27
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If it's a small trickle, you can shove a piece of bread in the pipe. Old donuts work well, too. Once the valve glue sets, the water dissolves the bread. It's more than a small trickle. If I put a piece of bread in it, it will only last 5 minutes or so, if even.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:58
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NickNails posted:I have not. I just discovered this today and the office isn't open on weekends. I will be calling tomorrow morning to find out what to do. Most likely they will want a certified plumber to replace the valve. If you're renting, then it's the landlord's responsibility to fix your faucet and they'll most likely call it their handyman to do so. There may even be something in your lease that prohibits you from doing any work yourself.
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Jan 31, 2010 22:15
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kid sinister posted:If you're renting, then it's the landlord's responsibility to fix your faucet and they'll most likely call it their handyman to do so. There may even be something in your lease that prohibits you from doing any work yourself. It's a condo. I own and am responsible for everything on the inside of the studs.
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Feb 1, 2010 01:13
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NickNails posted:It's a condo. I own and am responsible for everything on the inside of the studs. How have you determined that there are not individual shut-off valves for each unit? Could you just not find one or do you know that for a fact? If you are billed independently for water I have a hard time imagining that there's nowhere to shut it off for just you. I rent a tiny rear end little apartment and we can even shut off our own water.
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Feb 1, 2010 02:57
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I left a 3/4 full (but closed) can of varathane in my trunk over a particularly cold (-19C) night. The next morning it was a slushy mess. The outside of the can says "Keep from Freezing" - am I completely screwed on this can, or is it worth giving it a shot now that it's thawed?
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Feb 1, 2010 14:12
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Not Memorable posted:How have you determined that there are not individual shut-off valves for each unit? Could you just not find one or do you know that for a fact? If you are billed independently for water I have a hard time imagining that there's nowhere to shut it off for just you. I verified that there are no individual shut-offs. The water is billed to the association and added into our condo fees. I have access to the utility closets and it's all definitely one big system.
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Feb 1, 2010 16:19
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enki42 posted:I left a 3/4 full (but closed) can of varathane in my trunk over a particularly cold (-19C) night. The next morning it was a slushy mess. The outside of the can says "Keep from Freezing" - am I completely screwed on this can, or is it worth giving it a shot now that it's thawed? What does it look like now that it is thawed? Varathane is water based right? The water in it froze, it probably separated some. Stir the poo poo out of it and test it on a scrap piece of wood. If it looks/cures fine it is probably fine.
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Feb 2, 2010 02:32
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I'm utilize rainwater catchment as my source of potable water. Only problem is, we have acid rain here on occasion so our water is acidic. Home Depot has bags of crushed coral (calcium carbonate) and my thought is I can add it to the catchment system to help neutralize the water. Can this cause me any problems?
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Feb 4, 2010 06:02
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Socratic Moron posted:I'm utilize rainwater catchment as my source of potable water. Only problem is, we have acid rain here on occasion so our water is acidic. Home Depot has bags of crushed coral (calcium carbonate) and my thought is I can add it to the catchment system to help neutralize the water. Can this cause me any problems? I don't think so. You'll get strange nitrates, nitrites, sulfates, sulfites, and carbonates in your water, but the pH will be OK.
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Feb 4, 2010 06:34
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I have sliding windows in my apartment, and when it's windy they rattle perpendicular to the tracks they are on. What's a permanent way to shim them while retaining their ability to slide open and closed?
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Feb 7, 2010 20:06
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Deadpan Science posted:I have sliding windows in my apartment, and when it's windy they rattle perpendicular to the tracks they are on. What's a permanent way to shim them while retaining their ability to slide open and closed? Off the top of my head I remember a similar window in my student halls. I epoxied a thin plastic wedge at one end of the track, so when I closed the window it compressed the little wedge a smidge. That stopped the rattling when closed & I didn't care when it was open.
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Feb 7, 2010 20:55
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I bought a house a little while back and recently noticed what I think is a light fixture over the shower. Yes, this sounds like a bad porn plot already. Anyway, I noticed that the bulb appears to be out, but I can't figure out how to change the drat thing. You can see a picture of it here. That's the unresized photo from my digital camera for maximum clarity here. If for some reason you need more shots, let me know. I just want to change the bulb.
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Feb 12, 2010 05:04
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First guess: that large inner metal ring unscrews if you cut the paint seal and gently caress with it enough, and the lens falls out. Second guess: hie ye up to the attic.
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Feb 12, 2010 05:14
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Yeah, that inner ring should screw out or pry (gently) out. Do not do this while there is water in the bathtub (obviously).
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Feb 12, 2010 07:47
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While I'm at it, another quick question. My door has a panel that has separated. Is there anything I can do about this that wouldn't look like crap. This is my front door, and yes, that's the sun coming in. The folder with the pictures is here.
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Feb 13, 2010 05:23
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You probably have a loose trim piece around that panel on at least one side of that door. If the trim pieces warped, you might be able to snug them up by tapping in the finish nails with a hammer and nail set.
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Feb 13, 2010 08:52
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If that doesn't work, you'll have to carefully remove the trim pieces, and replace them, or reinstall them correctly.
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Feb 13, 2010 15:01
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dv6speed posted:If that doesn't work, you'll have to carefully remove the trim pieces, and replace them, or reinstall them correctly. To do that, first I'd use a utility knife to score the varnish around that trim, then use a flexible steel putty knife to carefully pry that trim up. I'd doubt that he'd have to replace them, a trim piece that thin can be pushed back into into shape with just his fingers and nailed down again. He might have to drill new pilot holes in the trim for the nails if when he pushes the trim back into place, the nails want to jump right back into the same holes where they were on the door.
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Feb 13, 2010 19:27
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Does it have trim pieces, it's hard to tell with the plastic there but it looks to me just like a solid wood door. If that's the case it looks like the raised panel either came out of the slot, or the side that is in the slot broke. Doors like that the panels aren't glued or fastened with any mechanical fasteners so they can expand and contract independently of the frame and not crack or break. If it is doing what I think it is doing then you taking the door off the hinges and lay it flat on some saw horses and get that bottom piece of wood off by heating or steaming the joint apart. once you get it apart and see if the panel just came loose or it is broken on that side, then you would have to reseat the panel in the rabbets and glue the bottom piece back on. ninja edit: Exploded view of a raised panel door for clarity  not my pic just the first one I could google up and re-host. Thumposaurus fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 20:55
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First, I just want to say thanks for the door advice. I've stored that away to be dealt with when it's warmer and I can stand having the door open/not there. It is a solid door. I don't think it's got trim, incidentally, so I think Thumposaurus is on the right track.dv6speed posted:Yeah, that inner ring should screw out or pry (gently) out. Now, as for the light fixture. Spent some time working on this, the inner ring definitely doesn't unscrew or anything. The outer ring turns a little bit. I can pull the inner ring down a bit on one side, but not on the other. Still can't seem to get into it though. I'm going to feel really stupid if I end up calling an electrician to change this bulb. Edit: Forgot to add, went into the attic, that's a no go. Fox_Spy fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 21:57
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Fox_Spy posted:Now, as for the light fixture. Spent some time working on this, the inner ring definitely doesn't unscrew or anything. The outer ring turns a little bit. I can pull the inner ring down a bit on one side, but not on the other. Still can't seem to get into it though. I'm going to feel really stupid if I end up calling an electrician to change this bulb. If you break it, it needed replacing anyway. 
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Feb 14, 2010 03:17
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Man up and really pull on the inner ring. The springs are probably rusted all to hell. It's hard to irreparably break one of these, like you're afraid of. The glass is easily 1/4" thick and the springs are probably a half-inch wide. I used to demo these things out of school bathrooms all the time and throw those domes across the room to have them bounce around on the concrete. Springs holding it in place? No wonder I had so much trouble. Got it open, got the bulb out. Got some annoying tabs stopping me from putting my cfl bulb in there. Put a red bulb in there, which I knew was good, didn't turn on. So now I guess I need to search the bathroom for another switch, email the person who owned this place beforehand to see if they have a clue, and possibly hire an electrician to fix this drat thing. I double checked the bulb I removed it, it is really dead. Edit: That was solved fast, the light is hooked up to the exhaust fan for the bathroom, when you turn the timer to turn on the exhaust fan, on goes the light. Now to figure out if there's a way to get the CFL in there, since I'm not having red mood lighting in my shower.
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Feb 14, 2010 04:29
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Fox_Spy posted:Springs holding it in place? No wonder I had so much trouble. Got it open, got the bulb out. Got some annoying tabs stopping me from putting my cfl bulb in there. Put a red bulb in there, which I knew was good, didn't turn on. So now I guess I need to search the bathroom for another switch, email the person who owned this place beforehand to see if they have a clue, and possibly hire an electrician to fix this drat thing. I double checked the bulb I removed it, it is really dead. Most showers could be improved with a little red mood lighting. 
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Feb 14, 2010 05:21
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NancyPants posted:Most showers could be improved with a little red mood lighting. Well, I have nothing against the occasional red mood lighting shower. I just don't want every shower to have red mood lighting. Also, didn't realize that smiley is called pervert until I quoted this. I just thought of it as the happy dance smiley.
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Feb 14, 2010 16:31
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I need a new tape measure. All the local hardware stores, both chain and independent seem to sell only crap. I have bought and then broken 2 loving tapes in the last two weeks. Here is what I want in a tape:
I am willing to pay pretty much any price for something that will last. Kobalt (which I think is Lowes' house brand) used to sell a perfect one but it has been discontinued in favor of some crap. Also, if anyone knows of a screw bag that can actually be filled full of screws without ripping I would love to know.
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Feb 15, 2010 02:18
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You want the Stanley Fat Max EXTREME. I used this thing as a railcar mechanic, and have dropped it on multiple occasions from on top of covered hopper cars (They are pretty loving tall). It has been subjected to numerous amounts of welding spatter and torch slag. I can't imagine any other tape measure I've seen that can withstand the conditions I've put this through. Also it has a 13' stickout which is really loving useful. They make them in longer lengths. And it is a wide blade monster... get over it  Edit: I've also had a few pieces of angle iron fall on top of it as I was cutting something off a car. It's really an amazing tape measure. Don't get the regular fat max however, it's not as good as the XTREME. Edit2: No markings on the other side of the blade or magnets, however if you MUST have those 2 things look at a manufacter called Komelon. They are not nearly as durable however. They also do not have the stickout. Edit3: Actually, you can't get anything like a 10' stickout without having a really wide blade. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 02:22
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No magnetic tip man. I need that poo poo. Also no top lip. I should have specified that as well. A coworker still has one of the good Kobalt ones and today I offered him $30 for it and he refused. I now fear that I will never find it's equal. EDIT: God I miss my loving tape measure. I do either need a magnet or a top tab. I work as a rigging installer and really want to be able to measure between beams without having to move a lift and that poo poo is frustrating as hell without a magnet. bongwizzard fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 02:33
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In that case, look at Komelon products, they may have something that fits your need. They got an assload of different stuff.
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Feb 15, 2010 02:40
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Can't you get a tape measure that is otherwise heavy-duty enough and get a couple rare earth magnets or otherwise powerful magnets, and stick them to each other with the little hook/lip thing on the end in between them?
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Feb 15, 2010 03:06
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NancyPants posted:Can't you get a tape measure that is otherwise heavy-duty enough and get a couple rare earth magnets or otherwise powerful magnets, and stick them to each other with the little hook/lip thing on the end in between them? That would affect the accuracy of the tape, although not by much. The bigger problem I see is that the magnets will just pop off the tape and stick to what ever I am trying to measure.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:18
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I was thinking of the tiny little neodymium magnets that would stick to each other more than they would anything else.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:27
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Epoxy a strong magnet to the back side of the lip, it won't affect accuracy. The only thing it would affect would be that the tape wouldn't retract fully, but that shouldn't be that big of a deal.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:38
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bunnielab posted:No magnetic tip man. I need that poo poo. Klein makes a tape like that; I've only seen it at electrical supply houses. The package says 8' standout but one of my coworker's will stand 12' no problem. He also has one of the new Kobalts; he had an old one until the magnet fell out, and Lowe's couldn't replace the tape with an identical model.
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Feb 15, 2010 14:45
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bunnielab posted:I need a new tape measure. No magnet, no frills. Depends on the supplier, but I've gotten as much as 8' standout from some (others, more like 6'). And at $1 apiece, I really couldn't care less if it gets bent or broken or falls 20' into mud or gets covered with liquid nails or what-not.
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Feb 15, 2010 17:03
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