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Bad Munki posted:My question is, once I've got those two pieces screwed together, how do I go about nicking off the protruding corner that is produced in their example jig? 
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Feb 14, 2010 13:59
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Doh! Good point, hadn't thought of the plane. That should work fine, and I do already have one
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Feb 14, 2010 18:00
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Oh, two more questions:some store online posted:How much sap does your cherry contain? And secondly, what's the difference between "hard maple" and "soft maple?" Ostensibly one is harder than the other, but I can't find anything specific on the janka charts for soft maple (hard maple/sugar maple comes in at 1450 according to wikipedia.) [edit] Nevermind on the maple question. Found this: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Hard_vs_soft_maple.html. Cherry question still stands, though.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 18:52
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, two more questions: They are probably referring to the sapwood as opposed to the heartwood. The sapwood is lighter and won't get darker with age like the heartwood does. It would be really expensive to toss out all the boards that have sapwood, so they are saying they will be minimizing what is there by having it be on the back sides of the boards.
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Feb 14, 2010 19:33
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I realize im going to get huge amounts of poo poo for this, but oh well... I posted quiet a while back with some questions about tools, in particular power tools and general "getting into woodworking" type poo poo. Part of the problem I've had has been money, and while woodworking seems appealing, I didnt want to drop hundreds of dollars into something I ultimately may have not enjoyed. This last xmas I received a $75 Harbor Freight gift card - well, today I decided to go there and see what damage I could do. I was in the market for a saw, some chisels, clamps, etc. I ended up leaving with a plastic miter box which included a saw, a fairly large double sided japanese-style saw, a pack of 2 planes in differing sizes, a small chisel set, a pair of bar clamps and a corner clamp. All in all, it was like $70 and you get what you pay for. The planes will only suffice as paper weights and one of the bar clamps quick squeeze thing is drat near busted. Having never actually used a miter box, im in love. Im also quiet impressed with the japanese saw. I dont expect them to last 6 months even, but for now, they will do. The first project Im trying to tackle is building an aquarium stand - I built one some time ago with my dads help made out of ragged rear end construction grade 2x4. It came out like rear end and was lopsided due to lovely cuts with a circular saw. This time around, I feel like im already doing much better using a combination square and miter box - the cuts are coming out clean and very even. The one sticky thing im running into is that I want to make the bottom portion of the stand meet at 45s in the corner. I can get them cut pretty close but I usually end up with a tiny bit of flat on the end. Does anyone have any tips for cutting corners like that or do I just need to buck up and get some better equipment?
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Feb 15, 2010 08:28
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Sounds like the angle is a little bit off. Cut your pieces a 1/16"-1/32" little bit longer, then use chisels and sandpaper to accurately remove the final little bit of material to get your fit up the way you want it. With limited amounts and quality of tools, patience really is your best friend. You can make stuff, it's just going to be a little tedious sometimes.
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Feb 15, 2010 13:39
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Dudes, I need your help. As previously discussed, I am without a planer or jointer. I have gotten pretty crafty with my router, but can't figure this one out. I am at step 3, and I'm not sure about the best way to get to step 4. I'm working with an 8 foot long piece of Red Oak. Is this a bandsaw job? I have a really lovely router table, excellent router, a benchtop sander, and a Harbor Freight hand plane. What's the easiest way?
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Feb 15, 2010 22:45
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Do you have a re-saw blade on the bandsaw? You want to minimize the drift of the blade. I'd say cut it a little large on the bandsaw and then hand plane it down.
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Feb 15, 2010 23:15
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Barn Owl posted:Do you have a re-saw blade on the bandsaw? You want to minimize the drift of the blade. I'd say cut it a little large on the bandsaw and then hand plane it down. Yeah, I have a 1/2" 6 hook tooth and a 3 hook tooth. I feared it was time to learn how to hand plane. Thanks for the push.
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Feb 15, 2010 23:25
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dv6speed - Your reccomendation about doing those 45s was great and im smacking myself now because i was party way through cutting them and just decided to keep going. Here are some pictures of my endeavor... Some of my tools - I ended up buying a better miter box from lowes that had these pegs that act as clamps, in addition I got some Kobalt 4 in 1 file/chisel gizmo and a hard-ish foam grip for sandpaper pads.  Click here for the full 800x533 image. Kind of an overall of the stand in its current state. Thats looking at it from the back, I may decide to add the same horizontal beam in the middle onto the front side, but a little higher to make more room for the door.  Click here for the full 800x533 image. Corners! This is one of the corners I consider to be pretty decent, theres very minimal gap and all in all, im quiet proud of this one.  Click here for the full 800x533 image. Another corner! This is one im not so proud of - The cut itself isnt awful, but for one reason or another, it seemed to pull apart slightly as the entire thing got screwed together. I think had I used dv6speed's method all of the corners would have come out better.  Click here for the full 800x533 image. Any opinions are much appreciated. I plan to put 1/2 ply on the very top for the tank to site in and find some half round or nice looking trim to create a lip. Im still trying to decide what to "skin" it with. I was just thinking some basic 1/4" ply and use some panel nails to keep it all in place.
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Feb 16, 2010 09:47
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After you have you mitres cut and are putting it together... these things are very useful to keep everything aligned for you while you glue or install fasnters: Also, you will note, there is a little slot cut in the inside corner of that clamp. That lets you cut your pieces a little long, put them together in the clamp, then run a saw down between the two pieces which will cut both simultaneously to make a perfect joint every time. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Feb 16, 2010 |
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Feb 16, 2010 14:06
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WildFoxMedia posted:Some of my tools - I ended up buying a better miter box from lowes that had these pegs that act as clamps If it's the one I'm thinking of, be sure to mount it on something. The table on that thing is the weak point, strangely enough, and mine eventually failed with a nice crack down the middle. If I had mounted it, of course, this wouldn't have happened, since it wouldn't have been able to flex at all. But then, at the time, I was working off the tailgate of my truck, so... 
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Feb 16, 2010 16:17
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Click here for the full 800x533 image. dv6speed - I wish I had found one of those. In the above picture you can barely see a red plastic thing with a screwdriver handle on it. It's a corner clamp thing for making 90s and T joints. It works pretty well but it certainly doesn't have a slot for cutting the corners. Bad Munki - Its hard to see in this picture, but on the floor behind the stand you can see the yellow miter box - I ended up screwing it down to a piece of 1/2" wood used as a shelf on a metal garage rack.
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Feb 16, 2010 19:58
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Those corner clamps are awesome, I have 4 from harbor freight and 4 I got from Lowes ( I think they are Bessey) and I actually find the HF ones to be more comfortable to use.. and they were $7 cheaper per. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1852
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Feb 16, 2010 22:46
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I never really liked woodturners that much, always driving up the price of hardwood lumber scraps and being all "here look at this bowl I made." Well since dad went pretty much blind he and mom gave me some of his tools, like the bandsaw pictured above, as well as a lathe he picked up sometime after I moved out. So here, look at this bowl I made:  It's a quaich, used for passing around whisky. One day I'll figure out how to light and shoot things without resorting to a bedsheet on the sofa.
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Feb 17, 2010 04:06
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I've been thinking about going out and getting some more lumber and re-building this thing knowing what I know now. I also overlooked a couple things and want to rectify them. The wood I used was ~$2.50 per board so it should be terribly expensive to re-buy the same materials. Ive never had luck using a circular saw in the past cause the cuts were so awful. But im thinking about picking up a set of Craftsman saw guides, or simply taking my 2' metal level and clamping that down and using that as a straight edge to make cuts. I also want to test out dv6speeds method for cutting miters. As for actual questions: Is there a general guide for types of wood, grades, best uses, etc? The stuff I bought from Lowes seems decent and is pretty smooth but still has quiet a few knots and some of the boards have an odd sweep over the 8' length. Any good resources for "skinning" stuff? Now that I've built the frame, whats the best thing to cover it with?
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Feb 17, 2010 07:08
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mcrandello posted:I never really liked woodturners that much, always driving up the price of hardwood lumber scraps and being all "here look at this bowl I made." Well since dad went pretty much blind he and mom gave me some of his tools, like the bandsaw pictured above, as well as a lathe he picked up sometime after I moved out. So here, look at this bowl I made: Mmm, balvenie. What kind of finish do you use for liquid holding vessels like that?
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Feb 17, 2010 07:47
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I need to make a new stock for my Stevens side by side. The current stock would be too much of a pain to modify in order to properly fit me. Never made a gunstock before. Anybody here have tips or maybe some good internet links?
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Feb 17, 2010 17:33
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WildFoxMedia posted:Ive never had luck using a circular saw in the past cause the cuts were so awful. But im thinking about picking up a set of Craftsman saw guides, or simply taking my 2' metal level and clamping that down and using that as a straight edge to make cuts. You don't need to buy any saw guides. You can make one yourself that is dead accurate very easily. Here is a front and top view of the guide. The dark brown piece is the fence your saw will ride against. Screw or glue it to some sort of sheet material (light brown in the drawing), then make a cut using the dark brown piece as a fence. That cutline is the purple line and the stuff to the right with the Xs all over it is waste material. That's all you need to do. Next time you need to make a cut with your circular saw, mark your line, then place the edge of your sheet stock (the purple line in the picture) right on that line and it will cut it exactly where you put it. It is one of the easiest jigs to make and is dead accurate as long as you are using the same blade to make your cuts that you used to make the jig. It also works great for routers. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Feb 17, 2010 |
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Feb 17, 2010 18:24
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Building a table. It'll be mounted on a pedestal. Pedestal has four 5/16" hanger bolts on the top for mounting. My question is, what sort of under-structure do I build onto the table surface for mounting this thing? Here's the pedestal in question:  [edit] I've come up with one possibility. Maybe something like this:  Which would disassemble something like this:  With either screws or, for strength, downward-pointing hanger bolts in the top half, which I'd use to bolt the bottom half on. Thoughts? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Feb 17, 2010 |
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Feb 17, 2010 19:24
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Run (2) 2x4's the length of the table, say 16-20" apart, and in the middle put a piece of square plywood spanning them, and then bolt the plywood to the pedestal. Edit: Oh you are building an octagonal table. Well you can use a similar idea. I thought you were building the other type.
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Feb 17, 2010 20:41
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I'm just hesitant to trust anything that isn't super solid. It's a pretty big table, and leaving a piece of ply as the joining structure kinda puts me on edge.
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Feb 17, 2010 21:15
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1-2 layers of 3/4" plywood should be plenty strong enough. Don't know how much solid you could possibly need. This is how all tables I've seen that use a pedestal are put together.
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Feb 17, 2010 21:18
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True enough, and in reality, the span the plywood has to reach is tiny. Here's what I've got now: Which explodes like this:  In my case, I used a smaller dimension for the braces than 2x4, because it'd line up with the bottom of the apron there. If I screw the braces into the table substrate every so often, it ought to hold plenty well. Thanks for the advice.
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Feb 17, 2010 21:52
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Slung Blade posted:Mmm, balvenie. From what I've read most finishes become 'food safe' after about a month when all the solvents have gassed off. In this case, I lacquered it because I figure for the minute or so it's in there a 40% solution is not going to get past it once it's completely cured. We'll see, if it soaks in I'll wind up sanding it off and redoing the bowl with something else. A lot of sites I've seen recommend using a food-safe oil finish however I have very strong doubts about how well those would hold up to single-malt.
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Feb 17, 2010 22:39
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What are your guys feelings on types of corner joints - As you can see in my previous posts I was trying to do 45* miters. Im wondering if there is a better (and easier) joint for what I want to achieve with the tools I have. I was considering doing some kind of rabbet joint like:  That joint seems a little more forgiving to imperfections and is easier to fill in any gaps. On the other hand it does mean that I have an exposed end sticking out... Edit: Im also thinking about using red oak instead of douglas fir this time around, any pros/cons? nullfox fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 00:27
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With the tools you have, it'll be easier for you to make a good miter then cut a rabbet. Rabbets really are a pain in the rear end unless you have a table saw or radial arm saw. Otherwise, you have alot of sawing, and chiselling to get it shaped right.
AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 00:30
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Miter it is - I just need to pick up one or two of those corner clamps and also take into account your other piece of advice about cutting it a 1/16" longer and sanding/chiseling it down.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:38
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Bad Munki posted:True enough, and in reality, the span the plywood has to reach is tiny. Here's what I've got now: Where will you reach in with your crescent wrench or ratchet to tighten it down?
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Feb 18, 2010 02:16
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I think he's planning on bolting the plywood, then using screws to secure the top to the plywood afterwards. I still think he only needs 2 2x4's that aren't notched. I think notching it partially defeats the purpose of having them.
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Feb 18, 2010 02:22
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Last question that i'll annoy you folks with. I realize this isn't completely relevant to woodworking, but im hoping that some of you guys that have alot of experience with wood would know about weight limits and such. As noted, im building a stand for an aquarium, the tank is 29 gallons - assuming water weighs approximately 8.35lb/gallon, thats roughly 245 pounds. Add on the weight of rocks and sand as well as equipment and we could be looking at roughly 350-400 pounds. Is there a rule of thumb for determining capacity of wood? Im trying to decide whether or not 2, 1x2s in each corner, screwed together at a 90 degree angle would be enough to support that much weight. The alternative is just using 2x4s
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Feb 18, 2010 03:12
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You can find information online that list the strengths of various woods of various sizes. If I were building something to hold 400lbs of water, my philosophy would be to overbuild it.
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Feb 18, 2010 03:14
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I was wondering if someone could recommend what to do and use for sealing raw mdf or stained mdf? I'm building an entertainment center and want to keep the look of raw mdf.
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Feb 18, 2010 03:21
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dv6speed posted:I think he's planning on bolting the plywood, then using screws to secure the top to the plywood afterwards. dv6speed posted:I still think he only needs 2 2x4's that aren't notched. I think notching it partially defeats the purpose of having them. It's a 60" diameter table. That means 30" from the center. If that plywood plate is 14" to a side, that's a 7" radius, leaving a span of 23", call it 2', from the edge of the mounting plate to the edge of the table. If I only run two supports underneath, that only supports it in one direction. It's a given that any pressure applied to the edge of the table could come from any side. That makes for a fair amount of torque along the two unsupported sides. I wanted to "quarter the table up" in order to minimize the locations without any direct support. Also, not gonna use a 2x4, unless they're laying flat, which decreases the strength in the direction that matters here. 3.5" would hang down below the apron. Another reason for "more but smaller" supports. Agreed about notching, though. Not sure what to do about that. Basically, I want to be sure that the first time some fat guy leans on the table to stand up, it doesn't break off and send everything flying. People are going to be leaning on the edge of this thing, heavy with the weight of defeat, for many many hours at a time. Maybe I'll just try it with two supports, and if it feels too loose I can always go back and add the other two. [edit] By the way, this is my new favorite thread 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 03:36
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Bad Munki posted:Basically, I want to be sure that the first time some fat guy leans on the table to stand up, it doesn't break off and send everything flying.
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Feb 18, 2010 04:07
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Iowa? I'm sure I could find a few willing to stand guard for some beer.
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Feb 18, 2010 04:16
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When looking at Lowes' selection of 2x4s im seeing stuff like Whitewood, Whitewood Stud, Hem-Fir Stud and Select Green Doug Fir. I've been using http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wood.html as a very simple reference of wood types. However, I can't find Whitewood or Hem-Fir on any list. Aside from not knowing what Whitewood or Hem-Fir is, how does something called a stud differ from the non-stud version, as well as Select Green vs non Select Green - The awesome product descriptions are non-existent.
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Feb 18, 2010 05:22
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Just wanted to thank Barn Owl and Chaotic for the bandsaw tips. Everything on my re-sawing worked out great after aligning my wheels and buying a feather board. In other news, go out and buy yourself a $7 trimming plane from Lowe's. It is the best bang for the dollar I've gotten in a long time.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 12:20
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Lasers on power tools - Useful or gimmicky? I think im going to drop some money and pick up a miter saw - I realize that in most cases the version with a laser is not much more expensive, but do you guys find them useful? Are they accurate to the degree you expect, or simply there to get you in the ballpark?
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Feb 19, 2010 10:19
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Those lasers are useful if you are doing rough carpentry or something. They are useless for any accurate work.
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Feb 19, 2010 14:43
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