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Stupid question alert: My sub has L/R inputs but my receiver has a single coax output for the sub. Is it OK to just plug it in the one of the channels or do I need to get a splitter?
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Feb 11, 2010 21:25
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I'm really leaning towards this sub, for the price it seems like it meets my needs and it's much cheaper than that ML Dynamo. Being made in the US out of what is claimed to be a less harmful material than MDF is a bonus.
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Feb 12, 2010 01:23
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ddogflex posted:Stupid question alert: My sub has L/R inputs but my receiver has a single coax output for the sub. Is it OK to just plug it in the one of the channels or do I need to get a splitter? Chances are pretty good the two inputs on your sub are just looped together anyway.
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Feb 12, 2010 02:09
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Suqit posted:That would be the Wadia 170iTransport. You're awesome. Thankyou! 
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Feb 13, 2010 15:05
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I moved my speakers around and I'm somewhat sure they sound different than before. I've heard that mixing up the + wire and - wire can make things sound different, is this true? (Checking is difficult because of where they're located so I'd rather not if it doesn't matter.) thehandtruck fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 03:56
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thehandtruck posted:I moved my speakers around and I'm somewhat sure they sound different than before. I've heard that mixing up the + wire and - wire can make things sound different, is this true? (Checking is difficult because of where they're located so I'd rather not if it doesn't matter.) Very true, when you reverse the polarity and the speakers are out of phase they can sound funky.
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Feb 14, 2010 06:10
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Suqit posted:Very true, when you reverse the polarity and the speakers are out of phase they can sound funky. It is subtle or really noticeable? Like overly bassy? Is there a test? thehandtruck fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 06:44
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thehandtruck posted:It is subtle or really noticeable? Like overly bassy? Is there a test? Generally when out of phase they will sound less bassy, very hollow and empty, as they are effectively canceling much of each other out. (Test with a source audio that is mono for the most pronounced effect.) You don't have to trace the cables, just swap one end of one cable at the speaker (or amp) and see how it sounds vs. the other way.
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Feb 14, 2010 07:19
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Stick your finger in one ear, then walk between two speakers. If one is wired backwards, then you should sense that it becomes quieter when you're an equal distance from the speakers. In fact, if you take two identical speakers playing the same thing and set them facing each other a few inches apart, then the waves will almost completely cancel out, and you'll hear surprisingly little no matter how loud you turn them up.
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Feb 14, 2010 07:21
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The skinny: audio drops out completely when going from the television show to commercials (and vice-versa). Changing the television channel to another one and then flipping back resolves the issue. This happens consistently at every commercial break. The setup: cable box (Scientific Atlantic 3250HD) connected to A/V receiver (Yamaha HTR-6090) via DVI-HDMI for video and coaxial digital for audio. I haven't tried much to fix this year, so if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great. Never used to have this problem before the receiver entered the picture (when I was doing DVI-HDMI for video and composite for audio). I don't have an optical cable, otherwise I would start with substituting that for the digital coax for audio.
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Feb 18, 2010 07:28
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While I don't know the specifics of that receiver, I would suggest taking it out of the auto format sensing mode it seems to be in and force it to use an appropriate digital mode. That should be a per-input setting.
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Feb 18, 2010 13:53
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I've been getting a weird sort of electronic whistling/crackling sound from my home theatre setup recently, but I can't determine the source. It only seems to happen when I'm watching Blu-rays or DVD's, so I don't think it's the TV (LG HDTV) or the speakers (Sony HT-2300). It usually happens when the BD player (Sony BDP-5350) is first turned on, and stops after a few minutes, although lately it's been happening at a lower volume for longer periods after the player has been turned on. The sound doesn't just come FROM the player though, it comes through the speakers...hence my confusion. Any ideas/advice would be GREATLY appreciated.
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Feb 19, 2010 02:25
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I have a couple devices I want to connect to my receiver, but it's a HTIB setup, so I only have one optical input left. Is there something I can get (hopefully not too expensive) with two or three RCA inputs and an optical output? I'm having trouble finding anything by googling.
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Feb 20, 2010 01:53
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NOT PICTURED posted:I have a couple devices I want to connect to my receiver, but it's a HTIB setup, so I only have one optical input left. Is there something I can get (hopefully not too expensive) with two or three RCA inputs and an optical output? I'm having trouble finding anything by googling. There are optical switch devices that are relatively inexpensive, but that would require all your devices to be able to do optical out
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Feb 20, 2010 03:24
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Alright, I'm sure of the answer already, but hopefully I can get some decent alternative suggestions out of this question. Cliff-notes version: XBox 360 -> SPDIF optical -> SPDIF-in on computer -> 5.1 surround sound PC speaker system...won't work, right? Long version: I picked up the VGA adapter to play my XBox in HD on my 22" widescreen monitor, since I don't own an HDTV yet. Now, I'd like to utilize my PC's surround sound setup to get better sound from my XBox. So I bought a Toslink optical cable, but realized the on-board SPDIF connector on my motherboard was output only. So I picked up the SPDIF input cable bracket from Gigabyte that plugs into my motherboard to hook it up. Now as I Google around about enabling the SPDIF input, it see alot of people saying the Realtek chip cannot decode the AC3 stream passed over SPDIF, but I'm not getting any definitively proven answers. But I'm starting to face the truth and believe them. So, does anyone have any suggestions? I hate to hook up my old Pioneer system and have 2 sets of surround speakers around my room...but it may be my only option. EDIT: Including maybe some pertinent specs. Motherboard - Gigabyte MA770-UD3 with Realtek ALC888 codec SURPRISE WITNESS fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Feb 20, 2010 |
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Feb 20, 2010 04:07
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vanilla slimfast posted:There are optical switch devices that are relatively inexpensive, but that would require all your devices to be able to do optical out Yeah, it's an older CD changer and an LP player, they only do RCA. What's involved in converting RCA to optical? I'm assuming there's some signal processing to be done since it's analogue->digital.
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Feb 20, 2010 07:13
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NOT PICTURED posted:Yeah, it's an older CD changer and an LP player, they only do RCA. What's involved in converting RCA to optical? I'm assuming there's some signal processing to be done since it's analogue->digital. That's a bad idea. (D>A>D>A)
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Feb 20, 2010 17:11
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NOT PICTURED posted:Yeah, it's an older CD changer and an LP player, they only do RCA. What's involved in converting RCA to optical? I'm assuming there's some signal processing to be done since it's analogue->digital. Depending on your LP player, you might also need a phono pre-amp somewhere in there. You may be better off considering an upgrade to a stand-alone AV receiver which has enough inputs for you. Edit: Of course, an AVR doesn't eliminate the need for a pre-amp since only top-of-the-line models seem to have phono inputs these days.
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Feb 20, 2010 22:53
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I had a feeling it might be easier to just get a different receiver. Thanks for the answers though!
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Feb 20, 2010 23:21
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I'm wiring a fire station with speaker wire to allow monitoring communications radios. We're not concerned with audio quality, so is going with something like 18-gauge speaker wire going to be ok? Some runs will be 100ft or so. The vendor I'm buying from carries down to 22-gauge, so if that would work, that would be cool, but it would probably be too small.
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Feb 22, 2010 20:49
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Wasn't sure if I should post here or in CC, but I had a question regarding distorting audio to make it sound like a lovely 70's era movie. Right now I'm using Premiere Pro and Goldwave, and really have no idea how to achieve it. Check out here to see what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_HNwZNUE0c Any advice?
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Feb 23, 2010 03:16
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I was looking at getting a cd player for my car when i decided it'd be much better to have some sort of portable mp3 player device with speakers and a car adapter. I wouldn't mind not being able to use my car speakers at all and this way i wouldnt have to worry about my car getting broken in to, since i live on a sketchier side of town. I don't even know if these type devices exist though so im completely in the dark here so any help would be great. Also i'm pretty drat poor so something cheap that plays music would be great. I'm currently listening to my mp3 player while driving. Anyone have any suggestions? I dont plan on buying music from Itunes or anything so i guess that cancels out the Apple market.
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Feb 23, 2010 04:09
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Wackle posted:I was looking at getting a cd player for my car when i decided it'd be much better to have some sort of portable mp3 player device with speakers and a car adapter. I wouldn't mind not being able to use my car speakers at all and this way i wouldnt have to worry about my car getting broken in to, since i live on a sketchier side of town. I don't even know if these type devices exist though so im completely in the dark here so any help would be great. Also i'm pretty drat poor so something cheap that plays music would be great. I'm currently listening to my mp3 player while driving. Does your car have a radio? You can get an FM transmitter that's designed to do exactly what you are looking for, although your results may vary depending on how crowded the airwaves are in your area. There are ipod-specific models as well as generic analog-in (headphone jack) style ones
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Feb 23, 2010 13:43
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The radio was stolen out of it before i bought it.
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Feb 23, 2010 19:00
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I hope this is in the right thread, but I didn't want to make a new thread just for this question. I have a nice HDTV. Right now, I'm using the speakers on my television. This needs to be remedied, so I'm looking into some home theater systems. I am not an audiophile, but I am tired of watching my HD movies and playing my HD games while still listening to the tinny audio coming from my TV speakers. Something around $400 to $450 that isn't terrible is fine by me. I only have a couple of "requirements" about the receiver... 1) There's some sort of HDMI pass through thing where everything you plug into the receiver - component, composite, HDMI - gets sent to the TV via the HDMI output. I don't know what it's called, but this would be convenient and easy, and is basically a necessity. I guess I'm reading that sometimes sound doesn't get transmitted via HDMI this way, which is just stupid. 2) I have two things that play DVDs, the PS3 and the X360. I don't need a third. If it's possible to get a receiver that does not have a DVD or CD player built-in, that would also be great. I see something like the SONY HT-SS360, but I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. At first glance, it looks like it has what I need. Here's Sony's site. Their site says, "The receiver detects and receives the best possible video and audio signals from all connected devices" and then plays it through the HDMI output. Am I reading that correctly? That's really it. I don't know jack-poo poo about audio equipment, so pardon my idiocy. Any help is greatly appreciated. Crows Turn Off fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 24, 2010 23:16
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Crows Turn Off posted:I see something like the SONY HT-SS360, but I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. At first glance, it looks like it has what I need. Here's Sony's site. Their site says, "The receiver detects and receives the best possible video and audio signals from all connected devices" and then plays it through the HDMI output. Am I reading that correctly? Sure, except that there are only HDMI inputs for video, so you are SOL when it comes to using component, s-video, or composite. I'm sorry I don't have enough experience to recommend you a better system. Someone else should do that.
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Feb 25, 2010 07:34
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Uthor posted:Sure, except that there are only HDMI inputs for video, so you are SOL when it comes to using component, s-video, or composite.  , didn't even see that! I thought it was too cheap anyway.  Something similar, except with more than just HDMI inputs? I actually went to a Best Buy after work to take a look at some first-hand and not only was their selection horrible, the kid there had no idea what he was talking about.
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Feb 25, 2010 07:38
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Crows Turn Off posted:Oh, For $400 to $450, you can get a pretty decent stand-alone AV receiver, like a Denon 1610 (list price $379.00) or Onkyo 507 (similar price). You'd still need speakers, but if you get an entry-level pair of bookshelf speakers for now, it will still be infinitely better than your TV speakers, and give you upgrade room if you ever feel like moving to 2.1, 3.1 or even 5.1 in the future. Edit: Oops, just noticed the Onkyo might not be able to convert analog video inputs to HDMI out, which is what you asked for. The Denon does this though.
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Feb 25, 2010 10:49
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Well, that is a good segue into my question: I think I'm going to get some decent speakers this weekend and need a receiver. I was all set on the Onkyo 507, but the inability to go analog to HDMI and being limited to only three inputs suck. I was looking at the Denon 590, but the 1610 looks good, too. I currently only need to hook up an xbox 360, my TV audio out, and my laptop (a 1/8" plug would be nice, but I already have a y-splitter so that shouldn't be a problem), though I'd like to be able to hook up my PS2 or GameCube in the future (composite). I'll also probably end up getting a BluRay player sooner or later. I'd like it all to connect to my TV with just an HDMI cable. On the output side, I think I'm going to go with a 2.0 setup for a while. Don't have the space to be stringing up wires for surround sound and don't want a big sub in a small apartment. However, 5.1 in the future is almost guaranteed. It seems like the extra $30 for the 1610 is for the B speaker output. I don't see any other advantages. Am I reading that wrong? Are there any other recievers that I should be looking at while I'm at it? EDIT: Also, anywhere I should be looking for audio equipment beyond my usual standbys of Amazon and NewEgg? Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Feb 25, 2010 |
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Feb 25, 2010 19:21
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Uthor posted:EDIT: Also, anywhere I should be looking for audio equipment beyond my usual standbys of Amazon and NewEgg? I like OneCall.com a lot, if you call them up or use their chat feature you can haggle a little.
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Feb 25, 2010 20:21
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I've got a semi-electrical question: My reciever puts out 550w @ 8ohms. My front speakers sound louder than my back ones. My front speakers are 8 ohms. My back speakers, however, are 4. Is the difference in resistance causing a drop in my speaker volumes?
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Feb 26, 2010 03:02
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Slightly different question. Of the receivers I posted above, I decided on the Denon AVR1610. However, my friend also linked me to a Sony STR-DN1000, which is on an amazing sale and cheaper than the Denon. It has better features (mainly better upcoverting), but I'm always wary of buying Sony products for some reason. Thoughts?
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Feb 26, 2010 07:40
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The Leon Hikari posted:I've got a semi-electrical question: No, in fact lower resistance allows the speakers to utilize more wattage, so your front speakers are getting a little less power than the rear ones. Your front speakers are louder because they're more efficient - they can convert the same amount of wattage into more volume. I think a 3 db increase in speaker efficiency is equivalent to doubling the amplifier's power. In any case, you should be able to calibrate the volumes through your receiver to make everything even.
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Feb 26, 2010 16:37
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What gauge wire do I need? I'm going to have about 6 feet from the receiver to each speaker. I'm thinking 16AWG. Are banana plugs worth the expense? They sure look cool, but it's not like I'm going to be switching components around.
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Feb 27, 2010 19:13
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Uthor posted:What gauge wire do I need? I'm going to have about 6 feet from the receiver to each speaker. I'm thinking 16AWG. I'll say it again: Monoprice has some good banana connectors for a few bucks, and they put them on sale for under a dollar pretty often. Their open-screw style feel much higher quality than the closed-screw, especially for larger wire. No, you don't absolutely need them, but they do help keep loose strands from shorting your receiver. For spring-clip jacks too small for banana clips, Monoprice's pin connectors are very handy too.
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Feb 27, 2010 19:43
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I need some white adhesive backed flat speaker wire like this, anyone know a cheaper source of this type of cable? It doesn't even seem monoprice even sells flat wire like this that I could find 
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Feb 28, 2010 03:50
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My parents threw away the optimizer microphone (the one that hears test noises and sets up the individual speakers' volumes, etc) from their Yamaha receiver, can I use the one from my Onkyo receiver to set up their system?
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Mar 1, 2010 03:01
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jeff8472 posted:My parents threw away the optimizer microphone (the one that hears test noises and sets up the individual speakers' volumes, etc) from their Yamaha receiver, can I use the one from my Onkyo receiver to set up their system? Im like 99% sure each mic is calibrated to the manufacturers receivers, so the mic will get hosed up results. You can try it i guess but i would just set poo poo manually.
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Mar 1, 2010 04:16
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Uthor posted:I currently only need to hook up an xbox 360, my TV audio out, and my laptop (a 1/8" plug would be nice, but I already have a y-splitter so that shouldn't be a problem), though I'd like to be able to hook up my PS2 or GameCube in the future (composite). I'll also probably end up getting a BluRay player sooner or later. I'd like it all to connect to my TV with just an HDMI cable. Your gear should all be possible to hook up to a 590. I think you're right about the difference between 590/1610. They don't sell the 590 in my market, but if you can get it, I guess you can save a few bucks that way. I can recommend the owner's thread on AVS forums.
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Mar 1, 2010 15:34
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I ended up with the Sony STR-DN1000 because I just couldn't pass up the price. Plus, it seems to have better upconverting. I was thinking 1610 over the 590, though, because of the Zone B which, for a boring reason I don't feel like going into, may make sense for me in the future.
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Mar 1, 2010 19:11
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