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Thanks schreibs. Well, I'm here in the airport in Philadelphia waiting to board my flight to Pittsburgh. I'll be spending the the holidays with family. I've had my sv650 for only 4 days, and get this... I had to leave it in California, so it's 9 days to go before I get to see it again.  This is going to kill me.    The bike is not in perfect condition, it's obvious that it's been laid down at least once on each side. Handlebars are bent, but other than that, everything is fine. Runs great. Compared to my old bike (the red one pictured above) it is a total 180. I love the hydraulic clutch, I love not being terrified of going around turns at speed, and I really like having a bike that just looks pretty. My only regret is that I only got to spin it around town and a few quick runs on the freeway. I can't wait to come back and really push it around some twists and turns. While I'm here I'd like a suggestion on handlebars. The factory bars are bent (and bent back) so I want to replace them ASAP. I found the factory bars to be a little too high and a little too narrow for my taste. Any suggestions on what I should replace them with? I replaced my Seca's factory ape-hangers with MX bars and really liked them, but I don't think that would work out quite the same on the SV560. Any and all words of wisdom on this matter would be appreciated.
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Dec 23, 2009 14:35
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Er, what hydraulic clutch?
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Dec 23, 2009 15:20
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Endless Mike posted:Er, what hydraulic clutch? No hydraulic clutch? Hmmm, how 'bout that... The actuation takes so little effort in comparison to my old bike I assumed it was hydraulic.
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Dec 23, 2009 17:32
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WildWanderer posted:No hydraulic clutch? Hmmm, how 'bout that... The actuation takes so little effort in comparison to my old bike I assumed it was hydraulic. No, definitely just a cable clutch. On the bars, I'd slap some MX bars on it. Find a bend that's a little lower and wider and the cables should fit just fine. Also, depending on your weight, I may have some springs and emulators in an old, bent pair of forks if you want them. I'd have to pull them apart and see.
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Dec 23, 2009 19:46
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WildWanderer posted:No hydraulic clutch? Hmmm, how 'bout that... The actuation takes so little effort in comparison to my old bike I assumed it was hydraulic. I wonder if you need(ed) a new clutch cable on your old bike.
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Dec 23, 2009 20:34
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WildWanderer posted:While I'm here I'd like a suggestion on handlebars. The factory bars are bent (and bent back) so I want to replace them ASAP. I found the factory bars to be a little too high and a little too narrow for my taste. Any suggestions on what I should replace them with? I replaced my Seca's factory ape-hangers with MX bars and really liked them, but I don't think that would work out quite the same on the SV560. Any and all words of wisdom on this matter would be appreciated. Take the stock bars into a dealer that has a few different MX bar bends. Find a pair a little lower, and a little wider than the ones you have. If you can't find what you like look for a 'superbike' bend online. Keep your cables and brake lines in mind when you get wider bars, but you should be able to make small changes without any problems.
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Dec 24, 2009 20:43
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The other day on the way home from work the speedo/odo on my 99 SV650 went out. Just stopped working completely, everything else on the gauge pod is fine. I pulled the connector and cleaned it out but still no sign of life from the speedo. It also did this last week for about 10 minutes then returned to normal. But the last couple days I have been riding with no speedo or odometer. Should I look at replacing the sensor on the axle or should I be looking at other things?
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Feb 4, 2010 14:37
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NitroSpazzz posted:The other day on the way home from work the speedo/odo on my 99 SV650 went out. Just stopped working completely, everything else on the gauge pod is fine. I pulled the connector and cleaned it out but still no sign of life from the speedo. Probably a broken speedo cable...disconnect the cable and check it. Edit: Forgot the early SVs have a hub to a hall effect sensor. Check/replace the drive on the front wheel. Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 17:44
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NitroSpazzz posted:The other day on the way home from work the speedo/odo on my 99 SV650 went out. Just stopped working completely, everything else on the gauge pod is fine. I pulled the connector and cleaned it out but still no sign of life from the speedo. I have a similar issue with mine. My speedometer works, but my tach doesn't. As soon as I start the motor, the needle flicks to 2,000rpm and stays there. One mechanic tells me I need to replace my entire tach, another mechanic concurs, but says it could be a diagnostic code. Anybody know anything about this?
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Feb 4, 2010 19:54
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WildWanderer posted:I have a similar issue with mine. My speedometer works, but my tach doesn't. As soon as I start the motor, the needle flicks to 2,000rpm and stays there. One mechanic tells me I need to replace my entire tach, another mechanic concurs, but says it could be a diagnostic code. I'd trace down the wire and look for damaged/crappy connections first. Could be the gauge cluster though. What generation is it? If it's gen 2 does it do a start up sweep? (I believe the Gen 2s do a start up sweep...)
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Feb 4, 2010 21:24
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Z3n posted:I'd trace down the wire and look for damaged/crappy connections first. Could be the gauge cluster though. I don't think they do, but I'll admit it's been awhile since mine has been started.
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Feb 10, 2010 19:08
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They don't.
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Feb 10, 2010 19:41
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I got a set of moto-sliders for my bike today. I got the frame sliders and swingarm sliders. They were relatively easy to install. I noticed that the bolt that they replace was super super rusted.. is that normal? I have a Suzuki bellypan and the rear seat cover coming in next week. These are my first actual mods to the bike and I've already put 16,000 miles on it. I almost feel like I've neglected it this whole time.
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Feb 12, 2010 02:06
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You have neglected it 
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Feb 12, 2010 02:48
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My 01 SVS has developed a weird front end wobble at any speed. If I go over a bump, round a slow tight corner or anything like that, I can feel the bars wobbling from side to side in my hands and the bike feels unstable. The only other thing of note is that it's dead easy to turn the bars from lock to lock when the bike's not moving - way easier than it normally is (like there's no resistance) First thought's obviously the tyre but the pressure's fine and there's still enough tread left before it becomes illegal. I'm debating if the bearings need changing but I have no way to get the front wheel off the ground to test them - do the symptoms sound like knackered bearings to anyone else? Wheel weights are intact and the bike's absolutely fine in a straight line; it only becomes unstable on rough road surfaces and round bends, so I don't think it's a deformed tyre.
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Feb 13, 2010 09:22
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Possibly a front wheel bearing, sometimes they get worn and loose, and can give a wobbly feeling, especially in corners, good idea to check it out and possibly replace it. I just had a shop do mine when I got new tired, they charged maybe an extra 10-20$ to do it, the bearing itself was 10$, so no biggie.
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Feb 13, 2010 10:05
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schreibs posted:You have neglected it
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Feb 13, 2010 18:01
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ranathari posted:My 01 SVS has developed a weird front end wobble at any speed. If I go over a bump, round a slow tight corner or anything like that, I can feel the bars wobbling from side to side in my hands and the bike feels unstable. The only other thing of note is that it's dead easy to turn the bars from lock to lock when the bike's not moving - way easier than it normally is (like there's no resistance) Sounds like your head bearings have gotten loose. You'll need to remove the upper triple tree and tighten them down. In some cases, with the right tool, you can do it without removing the triple. I can't find the tool to save my life though, the suspension guys at the track had one that was perfect...it's just an adjustable preload spanner. One of those tools you use once or twice a year, but is worth it's weight in gold when it saves you removing a bunch of poo poo.
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Feb 13, 2010 20:45
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Say I want to go rebuild my calipers and MC (front only) on a 2nd gen. No particular reason but the bike is 6 years old and I've never done anything with the brakes besides put in steel lines, change the pads and fluid every so often. I figure it could use it and I might get a more solid feel from the brake anyhow. I want the best I can get out of these mediocre brakes as this is my track bike and per classing reasons I'm not interested in changing the MC or calipers themselves. I've never gotten a rock solid feel from the brake as I've felt on other bikes. I imagine it can't be too hard, but I have no idea what parts could stand to be replaced in a rebuild. There are a few things like "piston seal set" on parts diagrams and "piston/cup set" for the MC. Is this what I should be looking for? Any thing else I should do in a rebuild? I have a (crappy) haynes manual but it's not around at the moment.
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Feb 13, 2010 22:52
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Infinotize posted:Say I want to go rebuild my calipers and MC (front only) on a 2nd gen. No particular reason but the bike is 6 years old and I've never done anything with the brakes besides put in steel lines, change the pads and fluid every so often. I figure it could use it and I might get a more solid feel from the brake anyhow. I want the best I can get out of these mediocre brakes as this is my track bike and per classing reasons I'm not interested in changing the MC or calipers themselves. I've never gotten a rock solid feel from the brake as I've felt on other bikes. Biggest upgrade you can do is good, high quality fluid (I like motul RBF 600) and racing pads (I like Vesrah RJLs). Clean your calipers as best you can, and get all of the air out of the system, (bleed the brakes, bleed the fittings, and make sure you've gotten all of the old stuff out). The SVs brakes actually aren't that bad, as long as you've got quality pads, lines, and fluid in there. If you want to really go with it, replace the caliper seals and inspect the pistons for wear, but I doubt you'll find too many problems with that. Also be aware that on a track bike, I had to change the fluid on my bike every 5 or so trackdays, even with high quality fluid, because the high heat and abuse of track use would cause it to degrade really fast. For what it's worth, I've never rebuilt an MC. I get night and day differences from proper fluid and good pads.
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Feb 13, 2010 23:15
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Z3n posted:Sounds like your head bearings have gotten loose. You'll need to remove the upper triple tree and tighten them down. In some cases, with the right tool, you can do it without removing the triple. Bearings all felt fine to me so I took it to a local garage I trust and they agreed. They're thinking fork bushes but I have no idea if that's a logical conclusion or not - they only settled on that once I mentioned I also get quite a large clunk from the front end when going over bumps at speed.
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Feb 14, 2010 00:00
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ranathari posted:Bearings all felt fine to me so I took it to a local garage I trust and they agreed. They're thinking fork bushes but I have no idea if that's a logical conclusion or not - they only settled on that once I mentioned I also get quite a large clunk from the front end when going over bumps at speed. Could be, but given your other symptoms, I'd bet that it's just the head bearings. Either way they need to be tightened, so try that first and then go after the forks if they still clunk.
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Feb 14, 2010 02:13
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Okay, will give that a pop first before going any further. Thanks for the advice.
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Feb 14, 2010 16:26
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Anyone bought a salvage bike? The Ninja 250 prices I'm seeing are slightly  right now and if I'm going to be spending close to $3000 I figure I should give SV650s their due diligence. http://www.cycletrader.com/find/listing/photos/96051570/ ^^ what I'm talking about. Would be my first street bike...looking to get into street since I have nowhere to ride dirt these days.
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Feb 18, 2010 03:09
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headshot24 posted:Anyone bought a salvage bike? Bike doesn't look too bad, needs new tires and maybe a chain. For 2400$, though, that's a drat good deal. It should be alright for a first street bike if you're relatively restrained, they're still plenty quick.
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Feb 18, 2010 03:18
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I finally got my belly pan and rear seat cowl. I also installed some framesliders from Motoslider. I'm going to keep the rear grabber thing since my girl rides with me and I don't want to have to reinstall it each time we go out.
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Feb 18, 2010 03:34
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I love the belly on the N models. Where did you get it from and was it color matched? My 04 is the same color, Candy Grand Blue I think.
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Feb 18, 2010 04:32
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jdonz posted:I love the belly on the N models. Where did you get it from and was it color matched? My 04 is the same color, Candy Grand Blue I think. I love the look too but never wanted to spend the money. Found a guy on svrider that was selling one still wrapped in factory plastic with all the hardware for $250 shipped, so I got it. I decided to take the rear bar off. Apparently M doesn't use it at all when we ride and I saw a pic of an sv with it off and I really like it :]
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Feb 18, 2010 04:47
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HEY DANGERZ WHATS THAT OTHER THING IN YOUR GARAGE YOU BIG JERK just kidding man hope youre doing awesome the SV looks great 
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Feb 18, 2010 06:09
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Captain Apollo posted:HEY DANGERZ WHATS THAT OTHER THING IN YOUR GARAGE YOU BIG JERK
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Feb 18, 2010 14:46
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dangerz posted:I finally got my belly pan and rear seat cowl. Suspicion of neglect redacted. Oh baby 
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Feb 19, 2010 18:47
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So I decided to add a garage door opener button to my SV. I was getting really tired of reaching in my pocket with gloves on just to find the drat thing. Here's a picture of the final assembly: If you want to see the full details, my build thread is here: http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?p=1858096 This is a much nicer solution and it only cost me ~$4 :]
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Feb 19, 2010 23:45
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The SV looks great. The door opener is a good idea. I went with a keychain and that stays on my key all the time, but your button is something I may try. I just ordered the Hotbodies undertail kit. I don't have a clue when it will be here, hopefully by next weekend. I'll document the installation and post here to let you know if its worth it.
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Feb 20, 2010 00:12
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jdonz posted:The SV looks great. The door opener is a good idea. I went with a keychain and that stays on my key all the time, but your button is something I may try. I love the hotbodies undertail kit. I heard the lights are pretty weak on 'em though. Also I wish they weren't so drat expensive :X
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Feb 20, 2010 00:49
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I realized after I bought the hotbodies kit that it doesn't come with a plate light. I'll probably end up with a white led, but I'm not sure yet. We'll find out when the package gets here. I installed a new slip on tonight and went for a 50 mile ride to burn the oil off. Yoshimura RS-3 Race Slip-on Exhaust - Stainless Mid Pipe:  I forgot to take a picture before I cut the stock pipe.  The Yoshimura instructions say to remove the rear wheel and also suggest taking the rear shock out. gently caress that. I used a sawsall with a six inch blade.  I think it was 24 tooth per inch. It worked pretty good. I did end up nicking the swingarm right as I cut through the last part of pipe. You can see it, barely, in the previous picture right above the cut pipe.  Old and new.  Prior to clamping and hanging.  The lower clamp. Instructions called for drilling a 3/16" hole inside of the hole shown in the picture. There is a rivet that gets pushed in the hole and sits flush with the Yoshimura pipe. The clamp gets lined up over the rivet and torqued down on top of it.   All clamped up. I did wash the can/pipe to get all the oil and fingerprints off of it before I started it up.  Finished product. I didn't look at the clock, but it felt like 45 to 60 minutes for the installation. I went for a ride with a friend of mine to burn the oil off and to hear how the can sounded. I love the new sound, a huge, huge improvement from the stock can. There was also a noticeable boost in performance too. I didn't expect much, the midrange power seems to have improved. I don't have a Power Commander so I made no changes to the fueling system. The bike ran great and doesn't seem to need a remapping. In case you noticed the chicken strips, yes, I'm slow as molasses...  When the new chain gets here, these are next on the list. jdonz fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 20, 2010 07:28
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Quick question regarding chain slack: I use the Haynes manual for reference. From the description in the Haynes book it looks like I measure the distance between the bottom of the swingarm and the top of the chain while pushing the chain up towards the swingarm. A friend disagreed with this method and said I should measure the amount of play in the chain; the distance when pushing the chain up and then pulling it down. Which is the correct way to measure?
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Feb 24, 2010 19:05
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jdonz posted:Quick question regarding chain slack:  Your chain slack will be measurement "A" Just make sure to pull it down as far as you can, and then as far up as you can; check multiple spots; and always check in the middle of your two sprockets.
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Feb 24, 2010 19:52
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AncientTV posted:
Since this applies to all bikes (including mine, which isn't an SV), is the chain slack usually measured with no weight on the rear wheel or with normal rider weight on the wheel? Ola fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 24, 2010 20:46
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Usually it's with the rear wheel on the ground and unloaded. At the end of the day, the reason you have slack in your chain is because as the swingarm compresses, it's effectively extending the distance between the front sprocket and the rear sprocket. Obviously, you don't want the chain binding up. So if you're unsure of what the slack should be on the chain, the easiest way to make sure it's loose enough is to get the bike loaded up so that the rear suspension is compressed enough that the chain is at it's tightest point, and making sure you still have slack then. The tightest point will be when the swingarm pivot, rear axle, and front sprocket are all in a line. If you still have a small amount of slack then, you're good to go.
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Feb 24, 2010 21:11
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I suppose the geometry is designed so that even with a slightly tight chain it won't shear off the sprocket if your rear shock should happen to bottom out? I've never heard this happen but my brain decided to get paranoid over this. edit: duh on me, you explained this perfectly already. Also, what bad things can a loose chain do apart from slapping things in the middle?
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Feb 24, 2010 21:33
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