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grover posted:The other option is to admit you're just hard on tape measures and buy disposable 16' tapes at Dollar Tree instead. I go through tape measures faster than I go through duct tape and finally gave up and just started using these. They're not the best, but they're really not that bad, either. Does Crafstman/Sears not have their no questions asked warranty anymore? My dad was a bricklayer. I remember many, many, many trips as a kid taking in various crafstman tools, mainly tape measures, that would be crushed, or full of gravel and mortar, or broken off, or whatever, and they would take it and just flip a new one over the counter.
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Feb 15, 2010 17:40
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Yes they do. The issue is, when you are a man trying to make a living using tools... you don't want the tool to break in the first place, (especially if you are working up high doing rigging). He just can't tell his boss, "Hey dude, I'll be back in an hour while I go to Sears." Broken tools means lost time, which means lost money. There's cases out there, where not having access to a $10 tool could loose a company thousands of dollars in lost work and time.
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Feb 15, 2010 20:38
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dv6speed posted:Yes they do. Yeah, but if your options are "buy a butt-rear end expensive tape that might still break", "buy lovely ones from the Dollar Tree to throw away", or "get two or three decent Crafstman tapes they'll replace for free", I know what I'd choose.
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Feb 15, 2010 21:04
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I told you to look into Komelon: Komelon 71425 Tape Measure, Magnetic Power Blade, 25 Ft google posted:Extra Wide Blade - Dual side printing with flared magnetic end hook - Two color blade - Extra two feet of standout The Magnetic POWERBLADE is the most durable tape measure sold today. It features Komelon's new POWERBLADE coating which consists of an ultra durable extruded nylon material. Lab testing has found that it is 10 times more durable than other standard blade coatings. This will protect the printing on the blade and will endure a long life of the tape. It also features a extra wide blade for an extra two feet of standout. This tape is printed on both sides of the two colored blade so that when flipped over the measurment can be made more accurately. It is also perfect for measuring on curved surfaces. This tape measure also has Komelon's patented flared magnetic end hood which is perfect for people working with metal. You'll just have to deal with the extra wide blade. Bonus: You can get Komelon products in metric or imperial. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Feb 16, 2010 |
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Feb 16, 2010 00:38
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I have a very, very small backyard. About the size of a bedroom, around 12'x12', maybe a bit bigger. I'm interested in making a small garden...what are my best options for plants (ie plants that don't need a ton of space, or that I could grow in pots), and how small can gardens actually be to be worth it at all? I enjoy gardening and would love some fresh veggies this summer. When should I start planting? Sorry I know these are dumb questions 
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Feb 17, 2010 07:06
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Fatty Patty posted:I have a very, very small backyard. About the size of a bedroom, around 12'x12', maybe a bit bigger. I'm interested in making a small garden...what are my best options for plants (ie plants that don't need a ton of space, or that I could grow in pots), and how small can gardens actually be to be worth it at all? I enjoy gardening and would love some fresh veggies this summer. When should I start planting? Where you live would be helpful. My uncle has a veggie garden that's roughly 5' wide and 10' long and he gets a ton of stuff out of it.
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Feb 17, 2010 15:05
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NickNails posted:Where you live would be helpful. My uncle has a veggie garden that's roughly 5' wide and 10' long and he gets a ton of stuff out of it. oh, sorry. Eastern North Carolina.
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Feb 17, 2010 15:27
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dv6speed posted:I told you to look into Komelon: I just ordered two of them, thanks for the heads up.
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Feb 17, 2010 23:10
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Any recommendations for a budget respirator?
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Feb 17, 2010 23:46
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dwoloz posted:Any recommendations for a budget respirator? You can get a 3M half face respirator and some P100 filters for it for $20 or less. I highly recommend 3M respiratory products. They are my absolute favorite.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:14
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bunnielab posted:I just ordered two of them, thanks for the heads up.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:16
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dv6speed posted:You can get a 3M half face respirator and some P100 filters for it for $20 or less. I highly recommend 3M respiratory products. They are my absolute favorite. Thanks for the tip Just bought two 3M 6300s with P100 filters for $15 shipped
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Feb 18, 2010 00:24
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I'm not too sure if this is the place to ask, but it's worth a shot. Does anyone know where I can buy sewing buttons in bulk? Ebay, etsy, and my local arts and craft stores have all failed me and I'm running out.
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Feb 18, 2010 23:05
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We got a new front-loading washer and dryer. They're awesome. What's not awesome is the lame builders who put the dryer exhaust duct in the center of the closest: which means I can't close the doors anymore because the dryer sticks out juuust too far  I've seen a product called The Dryerbox that looks like it would help, but here's the catch: it looks like I would somehow have to move the duct to the space between the next pair of studs in order to effectively accommodate the Dryerbox. Here's a crappy cellphone pic of where the duct is now (roughly):  One of the problems is that the dryer's 220 is attached to the stud it looks like I'd need to somehow get through, and I'm not sure if the electrical comes down or, what I'm thinking is more likely, up, since this is all on the second floor. My question is essentially this: I don't mind the headache of chopping through and patching drywall, but I'm afraid to just chop through a stud, especially if there's electrical stuff on it. Am I completely insane for trying to figure out how I could do this myself? If not, are there any good resources for attempting to reposition a duct like this? Will I need to get what I do inspected? Thanks for any advice.
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Feb 20, 2010 02:32
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It's rather difficult to move a duct from one side of a stud to another; its' not like drilling a 1/2" hole to run an electrical cable through as you have to cut a rather large hole in the stud or top plate, which is sometimes OK but sometimes not, and not always obvious which is which. If you go into your attic, you may be able to answer your questions of duct routing and where the cable is coming from. Otherwise, you'd need to punch a hole in the wall and take a look. Where are the studs in your wall? Can you mount the box on the other side of the stud and swap the washer & dryer? Whether or not you'd need a permit and inspection depends on your local laws. Chances are you need a permit, but if you didn't, you'd never get caught.
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Feb 20, 2010 02:40
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I saw a picture of this thing once - seems to be intended for precisely this situation: http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/51-600-dryer-vent-elbows/dryer-vent-tite-fit-652262.aspx  Anybody ever used one? Are they safe?
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Feb 20, 2010 02:48
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slap me silly posted:I saw a picture of this thing once - seems to be intended for precisely this situation: Oddly enough, the installer recommended that (called a "Titefit" something or other), and I actually bought one. But because this dryer has a steam option requiring a split line from the washer's cold water, which just happens to plug in right where I'd need the duct to go, I can't use it.
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Feb 20, 2010 02:55
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Does the dryer only vent out the back, or could you vent it out the side instead? When I redid my laundry room a couple weeks back, I changed my dryer to vent out the side so I could tuck it in closer to the wall. Look for a 4" hole on the side at the same height as the back vent. All you have to do is pop it out, get a 4" elbow, and re-route the duct inside the dryer. If you're lucky, it will have a removable back panel that allows you to get inside easier to do the work.
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Feb 20, 2010 06:38
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What happens if you put the dryer on the opposite side of the closet (where the washer is now)? That way the Tite Fit is going to the right instead of the left, and you would still have room for the cold water line.
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Feb 20, 2010 06:44
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Mthrboard posted:Does the dryer only vent out the back, or could you vent it out the side instead? When I redid my laundry room a couple weeks back, I changed my dryer to vent out the side so I could tuck it in closer to the wall. Look for a 4" hole on the side at the same height as the back vent. All you have to do is pop it out, get a 4" elbow, and re-route the duct inside the dryer. If you're lucky, it will have a removable back panel that allows you to get inside easier to do the work. Hmm. I'll have to look for that, thanks for the heads up... Beer3TheBeerGod posted:What happens if you put the dryer on the opposite side of the closet (where the washer is now)? That way the Tite Fit is going to the right instead of the left, and you would still have room for the cold water line. I'd love to be able to just switch things around, but there's a drain pipe on the left side of the closet (the same side where the water supply is located, too), so the washer wouldn't have a functional drain pan beneath it. The units are on the second floor, and I'm wary of just leaving the washer without a drain pan. Thanks, though.
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Feb 20, 2010 15:37
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I have a ceiling fixture that I need to remove because the bulb went out, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it. It looks like this one I found on Google: Checking around online I've seen the following suggestions: - Check for screws around the outside (there are none) - Try turning the glass until it comes off a hinge inside that I can't see (I have rotated the glass multiple times and don't think there's a "sweet spot" where it pops out) - Try just shoving the glass bowl back and forth to pop it out, which I can't seem to accomplish either Is there some trick to this I'm not getting? I feel like an idiot.
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Feb 20, 2010 20:23
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The black nub at the bottom is threaded. Use one hand to support the globe so it doesn't fall, and unscrew the nub with your other hand.
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Feb 20, 2010 20:30
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Must be an old fixture, because that nub took a lot of punishment before it would budge. Thanks for the help. I still feel like an idiot, but at least the room has light again.
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Feb 20, 2010 20:48
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Does anyone here know of an online store with a decent selection of unfinished, carved wooden "onlays"? Specifically I'm looking for smallish ones with Asian designs, like elephants or lotus flowers. Alternately, what sort of stores would be inclined to carry these? Basically I'm buying an inexpensive, unfinished wooden kitchen cart and I'd like to pretty it up a bit before giving it as a housewarming present.
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Feb 22, 2010 02:16
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A Child's Letter posted:I'd love to be able to just switch things around, but there's a drain pipe on the left side of the closet (the same side where the water supply is located, too), so the washer wouldn't have a functional drain pan beneath it. The units are on the second floor, and I'm wary of just leaving the washer without a drain pan. Thanks, though. What about running a line from the drain pain to the drain pipe, or running the drain pipe to the other side of the closet? Maybe I'm not seeing things correctly, but it seems like the drain pipe would be easier to deal with than the dryer exhaust.
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Feb 22, 2010 03:08
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I know there is a woodworking thread, but I figured this might be a better place to start. I'm thinking of starting a project building a wall unit for my study. My wife and I were getting quotes for custom built in units, as well as just wall unit furniture and nothing seems to fit, or is way out of our price range. My question for more knowledgeable people would be is this a reasonable task for someone who's woodworking experience doesn't extend past Ikea furniture? It's something I'm interested in getting into regardless, but is this too difficult for a first attempt?
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Feb 23, 2010 04:51
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Daggerpants posted:I know there is a woodworking thread, but I figured this might be a better place to start. I'm thinking of starting a project building a wall unit for my study. My wife and I were getting quotes for custom built in units, as well as just wall unit furniture and nothing seems to fit, or is way out of our price range. My question for more knowledgeable people would be is this a reasonable task for someone who's woodworking experience doesn't extend past Ikea furniture? It's something I'm interested in getting into regardless, but is this too difficult for a first attempt? How big is it and how good do you want it to look? If the answers are "not terribly big" and "average" than you can probably handle it.
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Feb 23, 2010 04:59
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Not Memorable posted:How big is it and how good do you want it to look? If the answers are "not terribly big" and "average" than you can probably handle it. The width of the room is about 11 feet, so I'd like it to go from wall to wall. It doesn't have to be ornate or anything, just a simple set of drawers, place for a monitor and some shelves on top.
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Feb 23, 2010 06:05
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I need a workbench for my basement. One thing I'm concerned about is the height of the working surface; I don't want to spend all my time slightly bent over. Are there some rules of thumb for how tall a workbench should be for a person of a given height?
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Feb 23, 2010 19:45
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Depends on the work you're doing - I've seen jewellery workshops with nipple-high desks, drawing desks slightly lower but tilted, etc etc. Make sure you have a height adjustable chair? 
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Feb 23, 2010 20:34
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I'm 6' 2", and I prefer my workbenches to be higher than a normal countertop. I'm at work and can't measure, but I'm guessing somewhere around 40" is good for me.
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Feb 23, 2010 20:52
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wins32767 posted:I need a workbench for my basement. One thing I'm concerned about is the height of the working surface; I don't want to spend all my time slightly bent over. Are there some rules of thumb for how tall a workbench should be for a person of a given height? Edit: Found a simple sitting workstation diagram; I'll see if I can find the old mil-spec drawings they use for designing weapons consoles and cockpits, etc, as they're all around excellent and nothing else I've seen has even come close. 
grover fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Feb 23, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 22:12
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grover posted:40" is standard counter height for standing. It's often too high for a workbench, as your workpieces are generally going to stick up above this a bit. There's no code for this- build it how it's comfortable for you. Isn't standard counter height 36" for kitchens, and 30" for baths? But yeah, my point was make it whatever height is right for you. Hell, make two - if you build them right, they'll nest.
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Feb 23, 2010 22:15
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wins32767 posted:I need a workbench for my basement. One thing I'm concerned about is the height of the working surface; I don't want to spend all my time slightly bent over. Are there some rules of thumb for how tall a workbench should be for a person of a given height? One option is to get yourself a bench/table that has a crank which lets you adjust the height. I love this thing.   grover posted:I'll see if I can find the old mil-spec drawings they use for designing weapons consoles and cockpits, etc, as they're all around excellent and nothing else I've seen as even come close.
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Feb 23, 2010 22:42
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Thanks for all the responses gang. I'll look into a crank, but given my utter lack of skills at this point, I doubt I'd be able to construct a bench with one. I'm about 6'2", so it sounds like 40" for a fixed height baby's first project is the right way to go. Any suggestions on what to use for the top work surface? Particle board?
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Feb 23, 2010 23:37
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wins32767 posted:Thanks for all the responses gang. I'll look into a crank, but given my utter lack of skills at this point, I doubt I'd be able to construct a bench with one. You could conceivably make some sort of a telescoping leg system using holes and bolts to adjust the height, however. This may lead to a slightly unstable bench. Depends on what type of work you are doing. I don't use that bench for rough work. I have a fixed work bench bolted to a wall for that kind of stuff. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Feb 23, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 23:40
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dv6speed posted:That would be awesome! MIL-STD-1472F says 36". MIL-HDBK-759C says 36" ±5/8". MIL-HDBK-759C posted:5.7.2.3 Work surface. A horizontal, or nearly horizontal, work surface which serves primarily as a work or writing surface, or as a support for the operator’s convenience items, should be 915 ± 15 mm above the floor, unless the surface is being used for locating certain types of controls (joystick, track ball, and keyboards) which should be 1.02 to 1.07 m above the floor. Care should be taken, when combining a horizontal workspace and a control panel, to ensure that the operators will have adequate workspace (minimum of 250 mm deep) and that they will be able to reach the control panel (maximum of 400 mm deep). Still doesn't have the diagrams I'm thinking off. The ones I had were, I think, either from an ASTM or from the document that pre-dated this MIL-STD. grover fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 23:48
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What is the best approach to smoothing out plaster walls? (I'm talking real 1920s plaster) Heavy sanding would work but would make one hell of a mess. Wet it first? Its painted with a semi gloss which would make wetting difficult. Builders didn't use asbestos in plaster, did they? I have another room which was horrendously spray textured (looks like stucco) that I want to remove or smooth out. Ideas on this would be appreciated as well Thanks in advance
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Feb 24, 2010 06:14
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dwoloz posted:What is the best approach to smoothing out plaster walls? (I'm talking real 1920s plaster) Heavy sanding would work but would make one hell of a mess. Wet it first? Its painted with a semi gloss which would make wetting difficult. Builders didn't use asbestos in plaster, did they? If you have horsehair plaster, the easiest and cleanest method for smooting them would be skimcoating. It's essentially applying plaster in a very thin coat over the old stuff.
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Feb 24, 2010 16:39
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wins32767 posted:Any suggestions on what to use for the top work surface? Particle board? Again, what kind of work? If it's a workbench that you'll be painting directly on you want something cheap and replaceable. If you're gluing on it you want something like polypropylene that won't let anything stick to it. Carpentry you need something sturdy and perfectly even, without marring your workpiece. I guess a particle board with formica on it wouldn't be too bad. I have one of those at 42" I'm 6'2" and have a one inch horse stall mat to stand on. If I were working on a box that was 2' square my arms would have to be raised to work on the top surface. that's why you would wan a lower "assembly" table.
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Feb 24, 2010 17:59
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