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Brock Landers posted:Did you read the part of that page where it says "This item does NOT fit"? As the former owner of an E39 BMW, trust me when I say that a stereo replacement in that car is non-trivial and not the same as other cars. The "radio" faceplate houses just the display, buttons, and either a single disc CD player or cassette player in a narrow, shallow bay. The radio tuner (and therefore antenna connection) and the pre-amp are located some place else in the car (the back I think) and the amp sits in the trunk under the CD changer. Again, I'm not saying you CAN'T do it. Read my original post, I just said it wasn't EASY or the best idea if you don't want a lot of hassle. Nope.  Also tried changing the search and came up with this cable for cars without Nav. I'm not going to go through and search every possible variant of the E39 platform, but at least when looking at '03 model sedans, no matter what the factory installed unit is, it seems to be a plug-and-play install. I'm not doubting that some OEM systems can be hard to replace. Just saying that with the information available to me the E39 still looks like a simple job. I know the amp is a separate unit. It takes speaker-level inputs from the factory head unit, so it'll take speaker-level inputs from any other head unit just as well.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:17
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I haven't seen this posted, so hopefully I didn't just miss it. Awesome video of an E30 M3 autocross, I think in Germany. Car gets up on two wheels a couple of times, and sounds absolutely wonderful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Aq58bQJHw8
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Feb 18, 2010 01:22
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wolrah posted:
You are being mis-informed. The headunit/preamp outputs 4 volt signals on twisted pair wires (no speaker level), so all you need to do is solder some RCA connectors on them and plug them into a new amp. People who replace the radio in these cars leave the controller/pre amp alone because it's not the weak part of the system, the amp and speakers are. You can reuse the wiring if you want to, but you need to cut connectors in the trunk to bypass the amp and use your own. The speakers are dual-voice coil units, one coil is for the optional cell phone. You need to make sure you hook up the correct coil when you use the factory wiring. None of this is particularly hard for someone who knows what they are doing, but to say it's as easy as slapping a wiring harness onto a some JVC deck and you're good to go is a bit of a stretch. Also, the only variations in the E39 audio system are DSP vs no DSP, phone vs. no phone, and nav vs. no nav. All other parts are the same. The DSP system has two extra speakers in the rear parcel shelf for the Nokia subs. The first harness you showed isn't even close to ANY connector in the entire E39 stereo system and the second COULD be (don't fully remember what it looked like), but doesn't terminate in RCAs, so you'd need to add those to it. http://bimmer.roadfly.com/5series/messages/archive/msgsy1999w06/11357.html http://bimmer.roadfly.com/5series/messages/archive/msgsy1999w09/12355.html http://www.jvrconsulting.com/bmwsite/bmwmain.htm
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Feb 18, 2010 02:04
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ab0z posted:I'm seeing them rmeuropean for $640 (that's still pretty drat expensive) but like I said, if I get one of these cars I'm budgeting a couple grand right away for this sort of thing. As long as you're aware of, and ok with, the issues and you feel they are worth it, E38s are fantastic to drive for such a big car. Sounds like that's the case so try to track down the best example you can find. White with black interior is pretty rare, but I've seen one or two. Tan is much more common. Don't count the 750iL out either. It has none of the catalytic converter or cooling system problems the V8s do and they are actually quite reliable engines. The drive-by-wire issues were solved in the later cars (97 or 98+ I think) and that was the only pricy problem with the engine. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 02:09
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revmoo posted:Hopefully not 7MM hex like the E36. All the drat hex sets skip over 7MM for some reason. I was finally able to find one set at Harbor Freight that had 7MM. This is the size  I only have an 8mm and was hoping that was the correct size. I've only ever had to use even sizes on VWs, oh well. Off to HF I go. LCN posted:I don't know which screw / bolt you mean, but here, find it yourself. Yeah, I couldn't find it there either, hence my bringing the question here. Thanks anyway though.
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Feb 18, 2010 05:31
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Brock Landers posted:As long as you're aware of, and ok with, the issues and you feel they are worth it, E38s are fantastic to drive for such a big car. Sounds like that's the case so try to track down the best example you can find. White with black interior is pretty rare, but I've seen one or two. Tan is much more common. Don't count the 750iL out either. It has none of the catalytic converter or cooling system problems the V8s do and they are actually quite reliable engines. The drive-by-wire issues were solved in the later cars (97 or 98+ I think) and that was the only pricy problem with the engine. Thanks for the additional input, I wasn't really thinking about the v12 models but if they don't have cat or cooling issues it might be worth the tradeoff in fuel economy.
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Feb 18, 2010 06:00
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Thanks wolrah and Brock Landers I think I'll probably get a factory stereo and put it back since what wolrah talks about seems too complicated to me. I really want to put a cool head unit but I'd probably mess it up. I read about some guy on yahoo answers that says that sometimes people connect the wrong wires and that causes their amp to get messed up, I hope that didn't happen to my car.
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Feb 18, 2010 08:07
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Well gently caress... I have a 2003 325i that's missing a couple of pieces. The outer cover of the passenger-side mirror went missing today. The rest of the mirror is there, just the part that goes over the foam is gone. Also, I noticed that there's a little piece from the front bumper missing. Its what covers the place where the tow truck driver put a bolt in so he could tow it. I have no idea what either of these two pieces are called, so I can't really search for a replacement. If anyone can tell me what I'm looking for, I would appreciate it.
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Feb 18, 2010 08:11
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I'm really tempted to buy this. It'd need control arm bushings installed though, but I can probably get someone to install them. i'd have to talk him down from 750 though. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/cto/1604951585.html I don't mind small fixes here and there, I just don't wanna have to do a huge overhaul. I'd probably take care of it, and drive it til it needs that major thing done. sicarim fucked around with this message at 11:58 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 11:55
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Factory Ten posted:Well gently caress... http://www.realoem.com/ Once you select your car the parts you're looking for will be under: Vehicle Trim --> Doors/Outside Mirrors Vehicle Trim --> Bumper It looks like the mirror covering is $50 primed, and you'll need to get it painted. Part No. 51168238376. The "towing eye" is $10 primed. Part No. 51117044125. These are just my guesses base on what I think your car is, you'll need to go through the catalog and pick the exact part for you car. It might be different but probably not.
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Feb 18, 2010 17:23
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sicarim posted:I'm really tempted to buy this. It'd need control arm bushings installed though, but I can probably get someone to install them. Find out just how bad the rust is -- otherwise that's not a bad deal
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Feb 18, 2010 18:06
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ynotony posted:http://www.realoem.com/ How do I go about getting them painted to match the rest of the car?
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Feb 18, 2010 20:28
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Factory Ten posted:How do I go about getting them painted to match the rest of the car? Go to a paint/body shop and have them fill, sand, prime, and paint them to match.
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Feb 18, 2010 20:30
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I have stumbling/misfire ONLY when the car is warmed up fully. Ideas?
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Feb 18, 2010 21:16
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O2 sensor? Any idea how many miles on yours?
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Feb 18, 2010 21:25
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BraveUlysses posted:O2 sensor? Any idea how many miles on yours? Probably a ton. I'll go ahead and replace it in spring anyway. Apparently you can use generic 35$ Ford ones with a little splicing.
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Feb 18, 2010 21:32
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revmoo posted:Probably a ton. I'll go ahead and replace it in spring anyway. Apparently you can use generic 35$ Ford ones with a little splicing. Thats the plan with mine. Picked up a Bosch O2 sensor for a mid 90s Mustang for $34 and a box of heatshrink for $10. Sure beats $130 for a BMW Bosch O2 sensor. Its the same sensor, just different adapters. By the way, any suggestions for removing an old O2 sensor? I bought an O2 sensor socket, used a bunch of liquid wrench, both with the exhaust warm and cold. I have a two foot breaker bar (a pipe that fits around my socket wrench, so almost 3 foot total) that I used too, and I could not even budge the thing. If I put any more force on it, I think I would end up ripping my exhaust off the car. I guess that I will have to try to see if I can get an impact wrench in there. Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 18, 2010 21:41
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Go to a paint/body shop and have them fill, sand, prime, and paint them to match. Any idea what something like this costs?
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Feb 18, 2010 22:53
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Dyscrasia posted:Thats the plan with mine. Picked up a Bosch O2 sensor for a mid 90s Mustang for $34 and a box of heatshrink for $10. Sure beats $130 for a BMW Bosch O2 sensor. Its the same sensor, just different adapters. Mapp torch maybe?
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Feb 18, 2010 23:23
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Dyscrasia posted:Thats the plan with mine. Picked up a Bosch O2 sensor for a mid 90s Mustang for $34 and a box of heatshrink for $10. Sure beats $130 for a BMW Bosch O2 sensor. Its the same sensor, just different adapters. Which socket did you get? The one that slips over like a spark plug socket or the one that is offset? I have had much better luck with the latter for E36s.
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Feb 19, 2010 00:37
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Which socket did you get? The one that slips over like a spark plug socket or the one that is offset? I have had much better luck with the latter for E36s. For what it's worth, I think Harbor Freight has those offset ones for $2.99. Beats Autozone's $19.99 or whatever they were. Can somebody supply the exact Ford part number for the O2 sensor, for future reference? That could come in VERY handy. 181k miles on my E36 and I've never had to replace an O2 sensor, knock on wood. (They're probably all pretty shot though...)
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Feb 19, 2010 00:42
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Factory Ten posted:Any idea what something like this costs? Call a shop and ask. How can anybody know what it costs in your city to get this done at some shop?
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Feb 19, 2010 00:48
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Brock Landers posted:Don't forget the fact that the catalytic converters like to poo poo themselves after 100k miles to the tune of $1200 EACH (there are two), not including labor. I love the E38 myself, but between the "normal" BMW maintenance like suspension, bushings, ball joints, the engine cooling issues that plague the V8, the automatics that like to go into failsafe mode (and need to be replaced), AND the expensive catalytic converters, they are on my "Do Not Touch" list. Unless I can get one for free or darn close to it, that is. Gee, thanks for reminding me. Just looked up the cats for my E34 540 (almost the same as the E38 740) and they're €900 + 25% tax each.  I sure as hell hope my engine, transmission and exhaust stays in order while I own this car.By the way, is there something that inherently makes an E38 more expensive to maintain than a E39? With the exception of the V12 / really obscure options such as 4-way climate, a little extra weight on the suspension, isn't it kinda the same car? Not that an E34 or E39 is super cheap to maintain, but still.
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Feb 19, 2010 05:32
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Pilsner posted:Gee, thanks for reminding me. Just looked up the cats for my E34 540 (almost the same as the E38 740) and they're €900 + 25% tax each. You sure the cats were a problem on the E34? Realoem shows a different part number. From what I've read, I think the problem was limited to the E39/E38 cars. The cats were closer to the engine (to help them warm up) and one of the theories is the extra heat shortened their lives. There is nothing really that I can think of that makes the E38 more expensive to maintain other than they are outfitted with more electronics. The drive trains and suspension design is shared with the E39, but on the E39, you can avoid the troublesome V8 and it's cooling system. Also, I know that BMW dealers charge you more to service a 7 than a 5. The inspection I/II costs more, even though they run through the same check list. That was the way it was at the dealers in my area, anyway (which is why I did my own).
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Feb 19, 2010 13:02
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Which socket did you get? The one that slips over like a spark plug socket or the one that is offset? I have had much better luck with the latter for E36s. I picked up the $2.99 offset one at harbor freight like CornHolio mentioned. The one that slips over the spark plug would not fit. I figured warming up the engine/exhaust would be similar to a torch, but I can try that too. Oh, and the part was "Bosch 15716 Oxygen Sensor" from Amazon.com. But this is for an M42 E30 318IS. Not sure how that matches up with any of the E36's even if you do have an M42 engine. I got this part number from m42club.com and it sounds like it works with my car, but I obviously have not had a chance to try it out yet. Dyscrasia fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Feb 19, 2010 |
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Feb 19, 2010 14:41
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Brock Landers posted:You sure the cats were a problem on the E34? Realoem shows a different part number. From what I've read, I think the problem was limited to the E39/E38 cars. The cats were closer to the engine (to help them warm up) and one of the theories is the extra heat shortened their lives. Nah, I haven't read about problems with the E34 cats, I just got worried since mine has the M60 engine which is pretty close to the M62 (or very early M60) that's in the E38.
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Feb 19, 2010 16:35
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Brock Landers posted:The drive trains and suspension design is shared with the E39, but on the E39, you can avoid the troublesome V8 and it's cooling system. I'd argue you can't avoid the troublesome cooling system in a BMW of that era, just the I6 ones are a bit easier to replace and last maybe 10k miles longer. But they are all lovely at the end of the day.
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Feb 19, 2010 19:29
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I've been searching around and haven't come up with a definition, although it's mostly self-explanatory. In regards to the e36 M3 Sedan, why is it sometimes referenced to as "m3/4/5"? I'm assuming, m3 / 4 door / but what's the 5?
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Feb 22, 2010 05:39
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Minimaul posted:I've been searching around and haven't come up with a definition, although it's mostly self-explanatory. In regards to the e36 M3 Sedan, why is it sometimes referenced to as "m3/4/5"? I'm assuming, m3 / 4 door / but what's the 5? 5 speed
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Feb 22, 2010 05:46
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Ah yes. It's so simple. Thanks.
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Feb 22, 2010 05:54
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I have a friend who pulled his ignition leads from his 1989 m40 engined e30 318i trying to change over the leads but forgot to take note of the order they were originally in, does anyone have a diagram or know which order these go in?
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Feb 22, 2010 06:54
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My E90 has the steering wheel controls for phone use, but it doesn't have bluetooth in the radio (and also doesn't have iDrive). Can anyone tell me my options for adding this in? I saw an after market option that has a extra little screen sticking up above the radio, but I didn't like that. Is there some way I can get an original bluetooth equipped radio from a junkyard or something? Also, I saw a while ago on a board that some store sold a touch screen nav unit that fit the dask perfectly, that didn't use iDrive. I can't find the link or the product now. Anyone know what it is off hand? I also took my first long road trip in the Beamer last week end, I got to drive him for eight hours. It was a blast, I made good time, averaged around 40 mpg. I love the cruise control, the way the little tick marks the speed on the speedometer, and the fact that you shift without disengaging the cruise control.
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Feb 22, 2010 13:54
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If it's like the E46 the OEM bluetooth module will be godawful expensive, and probably even worse since the E9x cars got the fiber optic MOST bus replacing the simple I-bus. e: here you go. BMW official retrofit guides for both prewired and non-prewired cars. e2: Anyone here have or previously own an E39 M5? I've been eyeing E39s every now and then pretty much since I bought my E46 as my next step up if I can't justify leasing an E90 or F10 (I do a lot of driving, so mileage charges could add up), and now the M5s have come down to a price range where I could afford to purchase one. The question is whether I can afford to own and run one. I've read everything from "similar to an E46 M3" up to "Ferrari-like" when looking for info on maintenance and consumable costs. wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Feb 22, 2010 |
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Feb 22, 2010 20:06
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I love the cruise control, the way the little tick marks the speed on the speedometer, and the fact that you shift without disengaging the cruise control. That little tick, and it's animation, bring a smile to my face every time. I also LOVE the CC on the these cars, and the fact that shifting doesn't require a restart. Though, I do feel guilty using it... like there's some man-law somewhere dictating the use of CC as strictly off-limits in cars like these.
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Feb 22, 2010 22:44
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I was out for a run and decided to take a different route and found a really pretty '72 Bavaria in Inka Orange (don't know if it's original or not) sitting on a driveway with a for sale sign for $4000, with no contact info. I'd never seen an E3 before so I stopped to look around it and it was sitting on some E34 wheels, no sign of rust bubbling from what I could tell, a little surface rust between the front body and the bumper and an immaculate tan interior and no visible cracks on the dash that I could see. Only other downside is the automatic, but gosh darn if that orange is pretty. From what I've read so far about Bavarias, rust and overheating are the primary problems with it. Is there anything else I can expect? Would I be in for a world of hurt pursuing this car, even if I could do basic maintenance stuff myself?
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Feb 22, 2010 23:00
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wolrah posted:Anyone here have or previously own an E39 M5?
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Feb 23, 2010 04:48
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BlindSite posted:I have a friend who pulled his ignition leads from his 1989 m40 engined e30 318i trying to change over the leads but forgot to take note of the order they were originally in, does anyone have a diagram or know which order these go in? Try looking closely on the dizzy, my M30 engine's dizzy had little raised figures from 1-6 indicating the cylinder number.
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Feb 23, 2010 05:01
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So... my power steering on my E36 M3 went out tonight. I got into the car after an hour workout, started it up, and started to leave my parking spot and the steering felt... really odd. As if something was slipping (there was a sound like this too), or couldn't quite grip the steering column or something. I shut the car down after a half block and started it up again, same thing... couldn't do anything about it and was only a mile or so from home, so I started driving home and after another few seconds it stopped and my power steering was just completely gone. Sound like the pump, or belt, or what?
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Feb 23, 2010 05:16
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Slipping? That's not usually what dead power steering feels like...Normally the wheel just becomes much more difficult to turn. I'm honestly not sure what you're describing.
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Feb 23, 2010 05:40
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Well, it was slipping like that before it went dead, and then it was just dead the entire way home. It was the oddest feeling, as if when I turned there was a belt in there somewhere trying to assist my turn but wasn't "grabbing" or something, because maybe 1/3 of the turn (stuttering, not the first third) was actually being assisted.
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Feb 23, 2010 05:43
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