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I broke off one of the bolts for the under engine cover thing. One of the bolts was already broken. I just find places I can stick zip ties for those things. I got the crank pulley bolt broken off via starter tap trick. Top timing cover is off, valve cover is off. I got a pretty good bit done for 45 minutes in the cold rear end garage.
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Feb 23, 2010 04:09
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I used a propane torch + impact gun to get the crank bolt off. I think I already gave you some particulars, but just in case: Take off the metal lump that looks like the top motor mount. It's just a dampener and is in the way of properly removing and installing the top timing cover. You should replace the pulleys at the same time, all two or three. You may have to loosen the center timing cover, but probably not on your car. If you have two idlers and a tensioner, you're good. If you've only got one of each, you're screwed and have to do something with the center cover. For the center timing cover, I removed the two bolts by the water pump, then one on the bottom rear, then loosened the one halfway up the back side. For that bolt I used a 1/4" craftsman ratchet, 1/4" u-joint with splints of wood jammed in to make it 95% rigid, and a 8mm 1/4" drive 6 point socket.
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Feb 23, 2010 04:18
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Washed and waxed it, installed my rear and side marker blackouts, and picked up a new pair of of rims to replace the curb-abused set I currently have on the front. Click here for the full 1200x900 image.
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Feb 23, 2010 13:06
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I will probably pull the motor mount entirely. It wasn't necessary on the BG chassis vehicles I have put t-belts in before (91 Escort GT, 91 Tracer LTS, 94 MX-3) but it made it a lot easier to work. I have big hands (XXL 'Mechanix' gloves) so taking stuff off that is in the way is the norm for me. The crank bolt was easy. For most cars with engines that rotate clockwise (ie not Hondas) you can just put a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, brace the other end of the breaker bar against the ground and use the key to just barely engage the starter. The torque of the starter motor will break the bolt loose for you with no effort at all. Kind of like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgY3-cAelWo So last Wednesday night I went to my friend's shop to help a different friend replace two rear brake calipers on his 93 Lincoln Mark VIII. We finish up and on the way home I was pulled over for speeding. It turns out that I hadn't updated the address on my driver's license since I moved so I got a fix-it ticket for that as well. (This means I had two weeks to update my license, track down a law enforcement officer, have them sign the ticket and then mail it in for dismissal). There is a DMV down the street from my workplace in an industrial area. I have been driving by a couple times a day to try to swoop in at a time when the line was short. I had no luck with that. So this morning I got up and drove to a different DMV closer to my house and arrived at 8:01 AM. There was no line. It still took FIFTY minutes to change the address on my DL and my car's registration and title. NO LINE. FIFTY MINUTES. Fifty minutes of the DMV lady typing almost non-stop to get my DL and registration updated. And they didn't take my picture or administer an eye exam or anything. I filled out a form, the lady typed and they gave me a black and white temporary driver's license printed on a laser printer. Grumble grumble. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Feb 23, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 19:23
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cleared another P0172 running rich code. I hope its nothing 
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Feb 23, 2010 22:25
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Got my Bluetooth ODB-II Plug from DealExtreme today. Code reader for my Moto droid works, but I was hoping it will show live data as well. Works awesome on my netbook though, was able to clear the P0400 evap failure code i had been saving in there...
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Feb 23, 2010 22:58
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On Saturday I put my HP+ pads on the rear, until one of the calipers started pissing fluid. $63 later I have a nice non-rusted rear caliper on one side. Still needs to have the whole fluid system flushed with some RBF600, but I'll get to that eventually before spring. Also, got my new seats today.  Note the rear view mirror in it's new home in the driver's seat...It's a large box in a tiny car (99 Civic).  It's like opening presents on Christmas. 2 new Sparco Sprint V's.  Test fitting.  They look awesome in the car and just barely fit my large rear end. I sat down in them to test fit and when I got up they came with me.  It looks like I'm going to have problems getting under the roll bar though still. I'm probably going to hack off the rear seat mounts and see how much lower that gets me. Probably only another inch or so, but it may be enough. Otherwise, I may have to get a taller roll bar. So...anybody want to trade for a Hard Dog Hardcore Hardtop double diagonal roll bar? I'd need the non hardtop version. (94 Miata, in Cincinnati)
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Feb 23, 2010 23:30
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Just had a new Uhaul trailer hitch installed. They were offering free installs yesterday but they were booked solid. But the guy was nice enough to float the free install to today. They just made a customer for life.
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Feb 26, 2010 18:33
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Rhyno posted:Just had a new Uhaul trailer hitch installed. They were offering free installs yesterday but they were booked solid. But the guy was nice enough to float the free install to today. They just made a customer for life. Which won't be much longer if you keep renting their trucks.
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Feb 26, 2010 18:56
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...I err....bought it! Thats what I did today. If i can work out how to put pics here I will :S
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Feb 26, 2010 19:23
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DreamOn13 posted:It looks like I'm going to have problems getting under the roll bar though still. I'm probably going to hack off the rear seat mounts and see how much lower that gets me. (94 Miata, in Cincinnati) Removing the rear seat mounts will also recline the seats, buying a little extra room. I have a Pro 2000 in my ITA/H4 Honda CRX and had to do the same thing to reclaim that extra inch of headroom I needed for my helmet. If you have any fabrication tools, strongly consider fabbing your mount with large backing plates under the floor isntead of reusing the factory mounts.
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Feb 26, 2010 19:52
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Ziploc posted:Which won't be much longer if you keep renting their trucks. I have rented at least 20 Uhaul trucks over the last 15 years and I have never had any issues at all.
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Feb 26, 2010 21:05
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Changed the fuel filter on my GTI. I've been having some problems with it bucking when its cold and not having as much power as it should when it warms up. I haven't driven it enough to know for sure yet but the filter was original with 193,000 miles on it  e: Unsurprisingly, this made a huge difference, my god. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 23:34
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CornHolio posted:cleared another P0172 running rich code. I hope its nothing It's never nothing.
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Feb 27, 2010 13:01
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I re-inflated the tyre because there's either a very, very slow puncture (like 5PSI a week, not increasing) or a leak elsewhere. And I can't be bothered to get it fixed, I'll just replace it relatively soon due to wear anyway.
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Feb 27, 2010 13:36
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I helped decrease the life of my tires by autocrossing.
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Feb 27, 2010 20:39
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 New wheels.
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Feb 27, 2010 21:12
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Sterndotstern posted:Removing the rear seat mounts will also recline the seats, buying a little extra room. I have a Pro 2000 in my ITA/H4 Honda CRX and had to do the same thing to reclaim that extra inch of headroom I needed for my helmet. If you have any fabrication tools, strongly consider fabbing your mount with large backing plates under the floor isntead of reusing the factory mounts. I thought I read for harnesses mounts your need 4"x4" backing plates, but this is just a seat here. I'm unsure what size would be acceptable for the rear mounts for when it gets bolted to the floor. In a crash I'd think the belts would be taking on most of the load, not the seat. I'd rather be on the safe side though...Any suggestions?
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Feb 27, 2010 21:36
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Today I fixed the very last squeak in my '95 Honda Civic hatch, thus restoring it to its rightful place as The Most Perfect Commuter Car Ever. I also polished the paint on the hood and roof, since I'm trying to sell it, and it promptly rained on me. Please allow yourself to bathe in its glory:  DreamOn13 posted:I thought I read for harnesses mounts your need 4"x4" backing plates, but this is just a seat here. I'm unsure what size would be acceptable for the rear mounts for when it gets bolted to the floor. In a crash I'd think the belts would be taking on most of the load, not the seat. I'd rather be on the safe side though...Any suggestions? It depends entirely on the forces being transmitted during a crash. If you are rear-ended (or going backwards at the time of impact) your seat will be loaded with your full weight. I've used a series of sequentially larger washers (starting with normal fender washers and expanding to 4" diameter) to back my seat and belt mounts, but if I were building a cage I would have the fabricator add heavy-gauge backing plates to the unibody. I've also seen numerous cars where the seat mounts are integrated into the cage, which would be a drat good idea if you don't need every inch of headroom. Lightbulb Out posted:
Those look drat nice. May I ask the fitment, price and brand?
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Feb 27, 2010 23:53
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Washed it! I took it to a self-serve car wash, where they charge by the minute. The pressure sprayer didn't have a cranked tip for washing underneath, but I was able to blast at least some of the grime off of the underbody. Apologies for the cell-phone picture.  I made it the half-dozen blocks home without losing the shine. If you want to know what it looked like before, simply apply a layer of medium-brown grime to every surface.  Late-80's Hondas lack cupholders, so I bought a cheap one at Crappy Tire and stuck it to the door panel. Now I won't have to shift with a bottle in my hand!
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Feb 28, 2010 01:33
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Sterndotstern posted:Your car is fantastic.
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Feb 28, 2010 01:59
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Sterndotstern posted:Those look drat nice. May I ask the fitment, price and brand? 4x100 et35. Ronal LS. $1000 shipped with nearly new Kumho XS.
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Feb 28, 2010 02:04
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Took one of these for a test drive (without all the fruit) Sigh... now to find the $62K they want for one
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Feb 28, 2010 02:19
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Ziploc posted:Your car is fantastic. Thanks, I think your Miata is tits too. Lightbulb Out posted:4x100 et35. Ronal LS. $1000 shipped with nearly new Kumho XS. They're 16x7s? They the most lovely, proportional, period-correct E30 wheel I've ever seen. Cleaning them, however, looks like it will be a nightmare.
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Feb 28, 2010 03:55
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Sterndotstern posted:They're 16x7s? They the most lovely, proportional, period-correct E30 wheel I've ever seen. Cleaning them, however, looks like it will be a nightmare. 15x7.5, they're really really good looking on the car, when I get it out again I'll take more pictures. They're easier to clean than the stock wheels, but not by much.
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Mar 1, 2010 01:17
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just put a new front bumper cover on to replace the old smashed one
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Mar 1, 2010 03:02
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Today I was going to drain and replace the gear oils in my transmission and differential but had the worst time trying to drive my car up onto some ramps, and ultimately just burnt up my clutch and got nothing done. I guess I'll do it next weekend. Does anyone here know of a good jackstand to use on a unibody car? The jack stand locations on the 95+ 240sx is on the pinch weld, but I haven't been able to find a jackstand actually made for this. My old jack stands had a \/ shaped top and the current stands I have available look like this:  I know some people will just take a 2x4 block of wood and put it between the jack and the car, but this always seems pretty precarious.
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Mar 1, 2010 05:57
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New summer tires and track pads are on the RS 4; Road Atlanta with BMW Club is this weekend. This will be the first time I've driven on a track with something besides Pilot Sports...well, ever. I'm excited to see how the RE-11s do. Unfortunately, a point driven home while switching wheels tonight is that they are loving heavy.
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Mar 1, 2010 06:15
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MetaJew posted:Today I was going to drain and replace the gear oils in my transmission and differential but had the worst time trying to drive my car up onto some ramps, and ultimately just burnt up my clutch and got nothing done. I guess I'll do it next weekend. Harbor Freight sells a jck stand topper that would probably work for you.
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Mar 1, 2010 16:54
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Cleaned out my throttle body to try and fix a problem my car had stalling as I came to a stop. Got carb cleaner all over my hands before reading the warnings on the back of the can and then forgot to replace a seal so now air leaks in underneath the throttle body, causing the engine to idle anywhere between 1500 and 2250RPM until I get a replacement seal on Wednesday.  I fixed the gently caress out of the stalling problem though, the throttle plate looked like somebody had dumped coffee dregs onto it and let it burn on for 80,000 miles.
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Mar 1, 2010 22:41
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Sterndotstern posted:Today I fixed the very last squeak in my '95 Honda Civic hatch, thus restoring it to its rightful place as The Most Perfect Commuter Car Ever. I also polished the paint on the hood and roof, since I'm trying to sell it, and it promptly rained on me. Please allow yourself to bathe in its glory: I want it and I don't even need a commuter car. I tried to get my coworker to buy it, but he got a Corolla instead, mostly due to angst about 1995 being 15 years ago. That and even a "nearby" city like Phoenix is 6 hours away or something.
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Mar 2, 2010 01:22
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MetaJew posted:I know some people will just take a 2x4 block of wood and put it between the jack and the car, but this always seems pretty precarious. If you're not working on the suspension, just put the jack stands under the points where the lower control arms bolt into the front subframe. If you need to work on the suspension, use a 2x4 and dado out a groove just wide enough to span the pinch weld. If you do it right, it's not at all unsafe.
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Mar 2, 2010 03:11
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Spent $35 ordering hose clamps from the Mercedes dealer to replace all of the 30 year old originals  The parts guy wondered why I was spergin over hose clamps, I wanted Benz clamps since they don't dig into the hoses & they have the MB logo on them.
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Mar 2, 2010 21:17
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Started it and let it idle for a few minutes, like I do every week when I know I'm not gonna be able to drive it.
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Mar 2, 2010 22:11
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Changed the oil in the shitbox, and put on my new Bosch H4 headlights from Flyin' Miata. Too bad I still can't drive it for another month or two.
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Mar 3, 2010 01:22
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I had forgotten my password when I did this so I couldn't post about it, but my RX7 was having the common wiper issue - they wouldn't return 'home' when I shut them off and intermittent didn't work at all. The fix for this consists of disassembling the dash to remove the wiper switch, and replacing two relays that often go bad. I ordered a spare of each just in case I melted one with my hamhanded soldering, but as it turned out my meager soldering skills did the trick and the wipers worked perfectly as soon as I reassembled the dash. Only one burned finger, too!
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Mar 4, 2010 04:33
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Went to the junkyard and bought a fixed antenna mast from a Camaro to replace the broken power antenna from my Trans Am. Installed it. Installed a speaker grill over my sub so I can still crank it with groceries in the trunk. Decided it was too cold to wrench on the Corolla. Maybe Sunday ...
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Mar 4, 2010 21:16
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Rolled over 170k to drive over an hour out of my way to try to find a specific model fan to hang in the living room. I got the fan, and that heated seat - so very nice.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:20
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I bought a bunch of panels to repair the damage I did to the front of my car but the real win was finding a Nismo front bar. Next week it will hopefully get into the body-shop.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:27
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Main focus for me today was replacing the inner tierods and the inner housing bushing (That little cute white busing for those who speak AW11). Managed to strip the driver side front rack support bolt (there is little to no clearance there, I dropped the radiator hose support and carefully bent the A/C lines as much as I could to gain clearance) putting it all back together. After a short panic and brain storming session I pulled out my thread chaser and tap kit, cleaned up the threads in the body then tried to salvage the bolt. The bottom 1/4 of the bolt had lost all of the threads. Quick dremeling, thread chasing and loctite and the whole assembly was bolted back together. If this doesn't fix my 55mph+ shimmy its got to be the wheels/tires since the entire front suspension is completely new now. After that was done I assembled my MRS seats and prepped them for next weekend when I test fit and modify the rails so they will fit. Nothing exciting, I'm pretty boring. Hopefully my front wheels don't go crosseye while going to school tomarrow and send me into the ditch/tree/school bus because I forgot something. 
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Mar 8, 2010 00:10
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