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James Woods posted:You've really never thrown a turnbuckle? Are you driving it or just scooting it back an forth on the carpet with your hands making "Vroom vroom!" noises? I run 2s lipo and a 10.5 on a small indoor clay track. You seem to be driving yours a lot harder than I do, though. I have snapped about 4 front arms, so perhaps I am underestimating the value of the RPM front end. Owsla posted:As fun as the free car is, I think I'm probably more of an electric fan, nitro is kind of a pain in the rear end. I'll probably get a brushless/lipo something or other pretty soon, what's good right now in 1/10 2WD electric stadium trucks? Stadium trucks are pretty dead right now. A lot of the stadium truck guys switched to short course trucks. Less getting tangled up, and a little more close racing. Owsla posted:On a side note I've been occassionally trying to keep up to date with what's going on in R/C since the 90s, and I know at one point Tekin went out of business, kind of bummed me out. I always bought their ESCs back in the day over the Novak ones and it made my day to see someone say in this thread that they're back and at the top of the heap now Tekin's not dead. In fact, they still make some of the best electronics around. They're one of the two ESCs out right now that can do software timing advance with rpm ranges.
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Feb 24, 2010 01:05
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kuffs posted:Tekin's not dead. In fact, they still make some of the best electronics around. They're one of the two ESCs out right now that can do software timing advance with rpm ranges.
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Feb 24, 2010 02:38
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You Am I posted:I have heard that Tekin are almost at the top for awesome brushless speedies. Their brushed stuff is legendary. Tekin is right at the top, if only because you can easily upgrade the firmware. The LRP and Black Diamond speedos cannot be updated (although there is talk the BD will be updateable in the future). The value of updateable firmware is plain in the v2.03 upgrade, which made the speedo king of the hill again after the previous firmware was overtaken by the Castle Mamba Pro and BD. It essentially made for a new speedo, entirely for free. It's also very reasonably priced, although not rock-bottom like the Mamba, which is also updateable. That hardware may not have a lot of growth in it, though. The Tekin guys say their hardware is pretty futureproof. The Tekin RS is a tiny speedo and is ridiculously smooth. The downside is that with all the adjustments possible, it's very easy to get lost if you don't know what you're doing. The BD and new LRP are set-and-forget units, but they are also very expensive (and again, cannot be updated, currently). But, once you find the sweet spot and can resist tinkering, it's a beast. Our 12th scale cars on 1s lipo (3.7 volts) and 17.5T brushless motors, very mild combos, are hitting high 30mph (36-37 range) on a 60 foot straight.
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Feb 24, 2010 06:26
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Yeah, I have been looking at the Tekin brushless ESC to finally replace my old KO Propo VFS-1 when the category I sometimes race in moves to brushless
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Feb 24, 2010 07:57
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Awesome, just picked up a Super Electric - gonna put a BL system on it and maybe finally paint up that BMW V12 LMR body I've had for ages. I have the treaded and soft slick tires from the Super Nitro in a box somewhere... 
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Feb 24, 2010 15:15
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Another thumbs up for the Tekin RS, awesome stuff, works great, but their software is a JOKE. Castle on the otherhand is getting a foot hold in our current racing scene. (granted they are locally owned) but the new MMax Pro is a solid performer, and their software is far superior to Tekins. (I currently run Tekin and LRP)
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Feb 25, 2010 16:36
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Oh, a KC goon. I race in Topeka at Jake's. I'll probably be doing on-road at Dee and Mee.
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Feb 25, 2010 17:08
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I've been out to Jakes once. I was just dropping in to pickup a ESC from a guy. Jake is a cool cat, but I live too far to race there. I usually race at Real R/C during the winter months, although recently I have been bitten by the crawler bug.
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Feb 25, 2010 17:58
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Last night I started the dreaded complete tear down of every single part for cleaning and inspection on my IGT2. I've already found a few surprise broken or missing parts. Hopefully the bill isn't too much. I'm already nearing $100. I can't wait for the upcoming race season. We've got twice as many cars as last year.
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Feb 25, 2010 23:01
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Last night I started the dreaded complete tear down of every single part for cleaning and inspection on my IGT2. I've already found a few surprise broken or missing parts. Hopefully the bill isn't too much. I'm already nearing $100. I just did this to my SC10 last night and also found a few plastic parts that drat near disintegrated when I pulled them. I think I'm gonna mail the pieces to Associated, I've heard they like to get this kind of feedback from customers for future products. It looks like I'll be spending at least $200 in the next week to get it where I want it. I swear, next time I buy a model I should get something with no hop up support, it's just too loving tempting for a gearhead.
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Feb 26, 2010 01:54
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Whoa, ultra-vintage Associated RC500 for sale http://lowclasscc.net/2010/02/vintage-18-scale-team-associated-rc500-up-for-sale/
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Feb 26, 2010 20:40
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loving GORGEOUS Super Nitro bodies http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/374822-300mm-bodies-sale-hpi-super-nitro-tamiya-tgx.html
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Feb 27, 2010 07:16
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Those are awesome for the display nerds.
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Feb 27, 2010 07:40
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I've got the racing bug bad and have been getting my cars prepped all week. So just curious, but what cars/classes is everyone planning on racing this season? For me: Associated 18R -Spec Class On-road Kyosho Inferno GT2 - Spec class On-road Jammin X1-CR Buggy (Planned X2 Upgrade) - Off-road Associated SC10 - Open class Off-road We've got a ton of new guys this season running on-road and a ton more running slashes in the off-road. Plus a new on-road track and the off-road track is getting a complete overhaul because we've got a new race director. Not to mention some big racing events, Miller Motorsports park is letting us run a few races there on their awesome asphalt lot. Should be a fun year.
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Feb 27, 2010 21:33
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The reissue Tamiya Sand Scorcher should be hitting my place early next week 
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Feb 27, 2010 23:41
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I've got the racing bug bad and have been getting my cars prepped all week. So just curious, but what cars/classes is everyone planning on racing this season? Associated 12R5.1, 1/12 stock indoor. CRC GenX10 at 235mm for Pro10 outdoor. Has a 4.5 in it and is insane. Losi JRX-S Type R for stock touring, but I'm thinking about going to a Schumacher Mi4 LP. Once I start thinking about something I usually do it (to my wife's chagrin...) Finally have the 1/12 stuff figured out and might make a B-main before the end of the season. I just have to work on consistency, because I have the pace. We have some world-class (top 5 at major US events) guys so I don't hold out hope for an A-main. Ran the Pro10 through a pack at the track tonight and was really impressed with the 3-link rear end - it drives really nice despite being monstrously overpowered for a 1/12 track. I'd like to run off road too, but the nearest track is an hour away and on road already eats up a full day on the weekend.
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Feb 28, 2010 08:53
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I have an Assoicated RC10GT with a burned out engine (I think the copper bushing hosed up?) - this happened probably ten years ago it's just been sitting in the basement chillin out. I've been thinking about getting back into the hobby and would like to know a few suggestions on where to buy a new engine and how hard it would be to replace it, I don't know very much about RC cars. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Feb 28, 2010 21:52
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Catsoup posted:I have an Assoicated RC10GT with a burned out engine (I think the copper bushing hosed up?) - this happened probably ten years ago it's just been sitting in the basement chillin out. I've been thinking about getting back into the hobby and would like to know a few suggestions on where to buy a new engine and how hard it would be to replace it, I don't know very much about RC cars. Any thoughts are appreciated. That engine probably needs to be replaced, but if you know nothing about engines it might be worth taking it in to your shop if they do repairs, and asking them to check if it can be rebuilt. They might suggest you get a new one or offer to rebuild it for you. You can get budget pullstarter engines that are easy to run and tune for relatively cheap, if the engine can be rebuilt OK you'll save quite a bit of money if the piston & sleeve are still available.
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Feb 28, 2010 23:23
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This is pretty cool, actually. http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/375414-traxxas-backslash-slash.html Traxxas Slash converted to a 2wd 1/8th scale buggy.
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Mar 1, 2010 04:38
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James Woods posted:I wouldn't bother waiting for the new ones to come out unless you plan on racing stock in which case you should get a Blitz because it's the fastest of the three out of the box. The alterations they will be making, the A-Arms, Turnbuckles, axles, and Shock posts, are all things you'll want to replace with RPM, Lunsford, MIP, etc.. Welp, I am forced to eat my own words. I bent a turnbuckle and busted a shock cap and yet another A-arm this weekend. Do you recommend the Lunsford turnbuckles over the Factory Team ones?
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Mar 1, 2010 04:56
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kuffs posted:Welp, I am forced to eat my own words. I bent a turnbuckle and busted a shock cap and yet another A-arm this weekend. I tried the Factory Team ones but am upgrading to these http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LNS14016 And if you really wanna go tough like I was saying before, couple them with these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRG8&P=FR This will eliminate the ball and cap system and bolt down your turnbuckles like the 1/8 buggies do. But as I said before, this energy needs to go somewhere. The shock caps have always been an issue and going over to the Factory Team aluminum shock caps is the easiest and least expensive way to pretty much permanently solve this and any other future shock problems. That is unless you're a complete loser like me and want to drop some serious money on some of these http://www.rcboca.com/pro-line-racing-powerstroke-shocks-front-slash.html and that's just for the front ones.
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Mar 1, 2010 09:28
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having ignored the advice given here, regarding short course trucks, i went out and bought an SC10, because drat that thing is cheap. Which upgrades are recommended while keeping it at least somewhat stock?
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Mar 1, 2010 14:31
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Oh. Snap. Just found one of the legendary HPI McLarrrren F1* bodies. Unpainted. I wonder how much it'll go for? *it was never licensed properly so HPI had to stop making them many winters ago...finding an unpainted one is usually cause for mass celebration in RC forums.
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Mar 1, 2010 17:23
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James Woods posted:I tried the Factory Team ones but am upgrading to these http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LNS14016 And if you really wanna go tough like I was saying before, couple them with these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRG8&P=FR This will eliminate the ball and cap system and bolt down your turnbuckles like the 1/8 buggies do. But as I said before, this energy needs to go somewhere. I've got RPM ball cups on it right now. Given that they don't really pop off I think I'm going to go with the standard Lunsford buckles. James Woods posted:The shock caps have always been an issue and going over to the Factory Team aluminum shock caps is the easiest and least expensive way to pretty much permanently solve this and any other future shock problems. That is unless you're a complete loser like me and want to drop some serious money on some of these http://www.rcboca.com/pro-line-racing-powerstroke-shocks-front-slash.html and that's just for the front ones. Well, I had aluminum caps, but I switched to the VCS2 system and now I'm stuck with what it gives. I suppose I really need to stop driving like an rear end in a top hat.
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Mar 1, 2010 18:08
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kuffs posted:I've got RPM ball cups on it right now. Given that they don't really pop off I think I'm going to go with the standard Lunsford buckles. The combination of the RPM ends and Lunsford buckles should be as strong as you'd need, other things are bound to fail first. For the shock caps I'm pretty sure these should fit; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1139/products_id/7960/n/Team-Associated-Factory-Team-Aluminum-Shock-End-Cap-Blue-4 Frobbe posted:having ignored the advice given here, regarding short course trucks, i went out and bought an SC10, because drat that thing is cheap. You just made an awesome purchase, my vote for the HPI was namely because they're new, not necessarily better than the SC10. It depends if you plan on racing it or not and if so if you want to race stock. Is it gonna be a basher, racer, or both? How fast do you want it to go? How durable do you want it to be? How much are you willing to spend? I'll tell you you'll want a brushless system eventually if not within a week or running that thing. You can always save your stock motor and ESC for box stock races. I went with the Novak Ballistic : http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...n=Product-Feeds after having a CC 4600 because you can quickly switch out the rotors for whatever turn you want for track days or bashing in certain conditions. Combine this with a pinion gear set from Robinson Racing http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=FR and you have any turn/gear ratio combination you'd ever need. One essential thing (part of the reason the HPI is my preferred out of the box) is some CVDs from MIP. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXZL9&P=FR This gets rid of the dogbones and is generally a good idea especially if going brushless. You should also refer to kuffs' and my conversation over the last couple pages reguarding turnbuckles, front a-arms, and shock caps. James Woods fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 07:02
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i'd actually want it for racing, although i do have to buy another just for bashing later on and breakproof that one. i've mounted an LRP brushless on it, although that's had it's issues to say the least. The factory mounted tamiya plug... melted on me and the motor wasnt even running, i simply turned it on. so i quickly switched over to a connected sorta plug instead, which appears to work just fine. the ESC is lrp's A.I reverse thingy, which kinda sucks because you cannot manually adjust it at all, which is what i believe led to the plug melting thing, the brushless i have is 15.5T, so that should be plenty of power for me to get my bearings with the SC10. the stock motor is an awesome beast though, even though it's brushed and horrible maintenance wise. edit: whats the stock speed on the SC10 anyway Frobbe fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 08:48
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Lookie what came in the mail for me today  Tamiya Sand Scorcher 2010 - the reissue of the 1979 model. I have an original Sand Scorcher, so will be interesting to compare the two once I have built the new one.
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Mar 2, 2010 10:42
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That is very cool Tamiya had a full-size replica (the original? I have no idea) on their stand at the Nurnberg Toy Fair http://www.wired.com/autopia/2010/02/lifesize-sand-scorcher/ 
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Mar 2, 2010 11:06
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i want tires like that on the Sc10, they are nice!
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Mar 2, 2010 11:27
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krushgroove posted:That is very cool
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Mar 2, 2010 11:49
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Frobbe posted:i want tires like that on the Sc10, they are nice!  http://www.prolineracing.com/products/Sling_Shot_SC_2_2_3_0_Tires-448-85.html  http://www.prolineracing.com/products/Mohawk_SC_2_2_3_0_Tires-447-85.html
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Mar 2, 2010 16:21
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You Am I posted:Lookie what came in the mail for me today Be still my beating heart. We got our first batch of them a few weeks ago and it has taken all of my will power to NOT buy one. I see that yours says it came with a commemorative shirt, did it include the bag as well? The ones that came to the states came with a first batch limited "Bag", similar to what grocery stores sell as those reusable "go green" bags. They are just so drat awesome I want one so bad. Frobbe posted:posted stuff about SC10 That is pretty awesome that you went for it! I've had my Blitz since the day of its release and it is just freaking awesome. I have driven a fair share of Slash 2WDs, SC10's, etc. but I really do prefer the BLITZ. It is smashing every Short Course class at the local tracks here in Utah. The new ART SERIES kits are available now as well which I kind of prefer to my "stock" black MAXXIS truck. I originally had a black MAXXIS truck, and my wife's is the Orange. I am on the third body, with the white Art Series one in reserve. Best looking body to come on an RTR in a long time.  My Blitz has been getting the upgrade treatment. I have a set of Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, HPI Universal drives, an XP 1015 AE Digital heatsink servo, M11 radio gear, HPI Flux system (rebadged CC Sidewinder/5700 system), ball bearing steering, ST Racing motor plate, chassis braces, and front bulkhead brace in gunmetal anodizing, & carbon fiber battery strap. I use 5000mah 40C LiPOs from Racers Edge. Next on the list is the HPI upgraded shocks. They are smooth as buttah  James Woods & kuffs I have yet to ever break a Factory Team titanium turnbuckle, and I have broken plenty of the Lunsford ones. The SuperDuty versions are pretty freaking tough. I never stray from the standard AE ball cups though - RPM ones are too bendy. I've learned that whatever will do in a #7230 ball cup will ruin the RPM one. Having a bent rod end will mess up your camber/toe etc as well.
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Mar 2, 2010 21:21
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Be still my beating heart. We got our first batch of them a few weeks ago and it has taken all of my will power to NOT buy one. I see that yours says it came with a commemorative shirt, did it include the bag as well? The ones that came to the states came with a first batch limited "Bag", similar to what grocery stores sell as those reusable "go green" bags. They are just so drat awesome I want one so bad.
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Mar 3, 2010 00:15
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Frobbe posted:i'd actually want it for racing, although i do have to buy another just for bashing later on and breakproof that one. I don't see any reason you'd have to buy two trucks for bashing and racing. The great thing about SCTs is that you can get racing performance out of a bashable platform. I plan on racing my SC10 in SCT Open Mod this summer as well as using it for bashing, jumping, beach driving, and stunt footage in the city. I have no doubt that it will do both jobs very well but it will end up costing me roughly the same as two moderately modified trucks. I've heard mixed reviews about LRP's quality so this doesn't entirely surprise me. Tamiya plugs are very prone to this sort of thing if the connectors are bent and they're way to easy to plug in cross parallel. Keep in mind that if you have a battery connected to your car it is ON even if it is switched off. Just like leaving things plugged in but off at your house, there is still electricity running through the system in most cases. This is why you should never leave a battery in a car overnight. You can't go wrong with a Dean's Plug; http://www.toysonics.com/10-pairs-2-pin-golden-plated-deans-connector-t-plug.html What kind of transmitter do you have? You may be able to overcome the limitations of the ESC with a proper Tx that has it's own throttle punch and reverse settings like the DX3x, 3Px, whatever. 15.5 should be plenty to learn on. I'd look into what motor limits your local tracks do and choose one you think appropriate for your budget and skill level to determine a future motor upgrade. Stock speed is very subjective and depends on a lot of variables, most of which is the batteries you run. The tests I've seen with the RTR put it anywhere between 20-25 mph with a NiCad battery. With higher voltage, "C', and "S" rated batteries this number can reach 30-40mph but the truck will likely melt it's bearings at that speed without CVDs. My big target speed I'm trying to reach with mine is 60mph but I'm not even sure if that's possible, the fastest I've gotten it clocked by radar is 45. Frobbe posted:i want tires like that on the Sc10, they are nice! kuffs posted:
These are on my Tower wishlist for the beach this summer. Pretty much the best sand tires out there right now. Somewhat Heroic posted:James Woods & kuffs I have yet to ever break a Factory Team titanium turnbuckle, and I have broken plenty of the Lunsford ones. The SuperDuty versions are pretty freaking tough. I never stray from the standard AE ball cups though - RPM ones are too bendy. I've learned that whatever will do in a #7230 ball cup will ruin the RPM one. Having a bent rod end will mess up your camber/toe etc as well. I've never "broken" a FT turnbuckle but have bent plenty. I'm yet so see a Lunsford Punisher bend much or break but anything is possible. This requires mentioning a few things about titanium. Titanium has this reputation of being this space aged super material that while quite strong and extremely light, is actually very soft. This is why no matter how popular the metal becomes for firearms applications you will never see it used in barrels because it can't hold a rifling. Titanium parts will bend (especially turnbuckles and hinge pins) but can usually be brought back to their original shape either by hand or with simple hand tools. My RPM ball ends are yet to permanently deform but they do have a bit of give to them. Again, this is why I'm ditching them altogether.
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Mar 3, 2010 03:45
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James Woods posted:I don't see any reason you'd have to buy two trucks for bashing and racing. The great thing about SCTs is that you can get racing performance out of a bashable platform. I plan on racing my SC10 in SCT Open Mod this summer as well as using it for bashing, jumping, beach driving, and stunt footage in the city. I have no doubt that it will do both jobs very well but it will end up costing me roughly the same as two moderately modified trucks. This is the exact reason why I have an SC10. It's also the reason I've been able to keep myself from buying a 4wd. James Woods posted:You can't go wrong with a Dean's Plug; http://www.toysonics.com/10-pairs-2-pin-golden-plated-deans-connector-t-plug.html This has changed my goddamn life. I've been wanting to buy in bulk, but Tower and Amain both only sell in pairs.
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Mar 3, 2010 03:53
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Oh, and I'll repost this here I have a new KO Eurus on the way and that means I now have the capability to run LiPo RX packs without a regulator. The first candidate for upgrade is my Monster GT. Now, I've found a decent looking Turnigy steering servo that is both digital and supports 2S lipo http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=9983. My problem is throttle and shifting duties. I don't want to spend $60 ea for servos that don't really need to be all that nice. The Associated servos that come on the SC10 support 7.4v http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=29131, but I'm not sure if they are 'digital'. I'm not able to find a technical definition of 'digital', so I can't even judge from the specs. I'm only concerned for digital-ness because I don't want to burn up the servo. I'm also not sure how well the Eurus handles non-digital servos. So, are the Associated servos linked above 'digital'? Maybe someone can slap them in their Futaba system on HRS mode and see if they behave properly? If not, can anyone recommend a few cheap digital, high-voltage servos for shifting and throttle duties on my MGT? It's not like they need to be amazing, it's just a basher.
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Mar 3, 2010 04:08
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kuffs posted:This has changed my goddamn life. I've been wanting to buy in bulk, but Tower and Amain both only sell in pairs. I never managed to find a place that sells genuine Deans in bulk, but these are a good alternative for bulk needs. Performance is similar to Deans, are easier to plug and unplug, but are huge as hell (probably more than 3x the size). They look kind of ridiculous on a mini.
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Mar 3, 2010 04:58
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I used to use Powerpole / Lightspeed connectors back in the day. As it is now, I like the flexibility that the Deans plugs give me. Most everyone at my track, and especially my racing crew, use Deans.
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Mar 3, 2010 05:03
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that LRP ESC i talked about that melted tamiya plugs? i soldered really nice bullet gold connectors on it, ran my car a bit, turned it off and left it. a few hours later i went to run it again to show it off to a friend, but all the ESC did was emit a high pitched squeal, then promptly melt so fast and so hot the soldering on the wires melted! take notice that this happened without the motor running at all, it simply just melted because i dared to turn it on! no damage to the car, so i'm just gonna slap in the stock engine and have fun with that.
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Mar 3, 2010 08:08
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| # ? May 11, 2024 13:16 |
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Tamiya plugs usually melt under race conditions, due to the heat build up from high resistance they have. Whereas Deans plugs and Corolly plugs are low resistance, and don't have the heat build up
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Mar 3, 2010 08:25
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