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Dragyn posted:If you have horsehair plaster, the easiest and cleanest method for smooting them would be skimcoating. It's essentially applying plaster in a very thin coat over the old stuff. Thanks for the reply This can be done over a semi gloss paint?
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Feb 24, 2010 18:59
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dwoloz posted:Thanks for the reply No, the plaster has to adhere to the rough texture of the horsehair plaster... I wasn't even aware people painted horsehair.. (and for the record, yes, some older iterations of the recipe for horsehair plaster include asbestos, so sanding might be a tad dangerous). Frankly, I'm not sure what to do there... anyone else care to chime in?
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Feb 24, 2010 19:02
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A few years back I recall watching a video for an adhesive that was "activated" via electrical charge, and released when not charged. Does such a product exist commercially? Is there any obvious way to make something with an on-off like property for stickiness?
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Feb 25, 2010 22:11
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Electromagnet? Something tells me you aren't dealing with ferrous materials. Don't know of any adhesives like you are describing, but it is an intriguing concept. What are you trying to do exactly, or is this a super top secret yet to be patented project?
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Feb 25, 2010 22:18
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Whatever you make the top out of, make it easily removable and reversible. You might consider a plywood base with a masonite top. That way, once it gets too scratched/gouged/beat up, you can flip the piece of masonite over. Once THAT side gets destroyed, you just replace it. It has the added benefit of being pretty cheap.
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Feb 25, 2010 22:42
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Dragyn posted:No, the plaster has to adhere to the rough texture of the horsehair plaster... I wasn't even aware people painted horsehair.. (and for the record, yes, some older iterations of the recipe for horsehair plaster include asbestos, so sanding might be a tad dangerous). You'll need to get a binding agent like PlasterWeld to mix in with your plaster or to paint the wall with beforehand. Make sure the paint that is there is firmly attached and scrape away anything that looks even slightly suspect. Also, clean, dust, etc the walls. You are basically asking plaster to stick to something it doesn't want to. You want to have everything is perfect as possible. Then just use as thin of a skim coat as you can get away with and you'll be good. I'm assuming you want to smooth out gouges and dents? As for the textured walls, the best I can recommend is a wide thin blade scraper and some muscle.
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Feb 25, 2010 23:02
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dv6speed posted:Electromagnet? Something tells me you aren't dealing with ferrous materials. If I recall, and the video did not describe it well, it was clearly done as a lab experiment. But the "glue" looked like doped gel so it likely had some sort of ferrous components. dv6speed posted:What are you trying to do exactly, or is this a super top secret yet to be patented project? Nothing secret...yet. I was just having a discussion with a friend and I am now trying to track down a product I may have hallucinated to prove it exists.
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Feb 26, 2010 16:38
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I'm not sure if this is the place, but here goes. My wife and I are looking at houses and were wondering how tough it is to put a gas range in where an existing electric one is. After getting used to cooking with gas in our current home, electric just doesn't appeal to us anymore.
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Mar 1, 2010 19:11
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Safety Engineer posted:I'm not sure if this is the place, but here goes. My wife and I are looking at houses and were wondering how tough it is to put a gas range in where an existing electric one is. After getting used to cooking with gas in our current home, electric just doesn't appeal to us anymore. First, speaking as a die-hard gas fan, the new induction cook tops are really really good. Like gas level good. So give them a look, if you are considering the higher end stuff. They are expensive though, so a cheap gas unit will always provide a better BTU/dollar ratio. As far as adding gas, as with everything, it depends. How old are the houses you are looking at? If they are pre-1960 construction, there is a high chance they already have a gas line there, it just is not being used. Cost would just be a new flex line, for like $20. I ran gas in my house, but it was pier and beam. All it took was about $50 in pipe and fittings and I did it in about 5 hours. I assume a pro could do it in less time. If you are talking about running a gas line into a two story house with a modern concrete foundation, things will skyrocket. That would likely mean ripping up the floors and jack-hammering the foundation or ripping out the ceiling and running it through the joists. Neither of which will make sense unless you are doing a full renovation. Of course, it is also possible that you could get lucky and have your cabinets arranged in such a way that you could hidethe line in there. But don't count on it.
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Mar 1, 2010 20:17
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Safety Engineer posted:I'm not sure if this is the place, but here goes. My wife and I are looking at houses and were wondering how tough it is to put a gas range in where an existing electric one is. After getting used to cooking with gas in our current home, electric just doesn't appeal to us anymore. First off, does your home even have gas for a furnace or water heater or other appliance? How easy it would be depends on whether or not there's a gas line already run to that location. This isn't common, but take a look in the cabinet underneath and look for a gas valve shut and capped off.
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Mar 1, 2010 20:24
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bunnielab posted:
http://www.service.kleintools.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+R025C4048387531000253065+PRD+ENG How full of screws are we talking? This thing will hold 750 1"1/4 sds at least. Do you wanna walk around with 2 of them full up? (no) They work excellently and they are all I use as work. (Steel erection) Plan on replacing them every year at least, I am really hard on mine, but they last at least 9 months a whack. They will
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Mar 2, 2010 06:10
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EDIT: Moved to electronics thread.
Squashy Nipples fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Mar 8, 2010 |
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Mar 3, 2010 22:34
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Has anyone heard of a product that's two sheets of drywall with steel laminated between them? I had a contractor in today looking for this product for a client of his. He says they saw it on some TV show, but couldn't say which one. I've seen sound deadening rock before with a polymer sheet in the middle, but they swear it was metal. The reason they want it is for security purposes, their business was recently broken into by thieves who came in to the adjacent suite through an unlocked door, then smashed through the drywall in the common wall. They want to repair it with something that will deter a future break in. I don't know if the polymer rock will work in this way. My alternate suggestion was to put up a layer of hardware cloth before the drywall, but I don't know how well this would work with any electrical work in the wall. Any suggestions?
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Mar 4, 2010 06:44
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Why not just run some rebar between the studs?
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Mar 4, 2010 16:20
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Maybe what they saw on TV was lead-lined drywall which is used for radiation shielded areas (like in a dentist office). Some creative googling found this product called "CoreGuard" which is a collection of security wall materials: quote:CoreGuard™ is a gypsum and polycarbonate composition board designed for forced entry resistance as part of a security wall barrier system, coupled with fire resistance. Should do the trick, although none of them are metal.
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Mar 4, 2010 19:10
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I like the look of that CoreGuard stuff, but I think they may have come up with an even simpler solution. They're going to glue & screw 2 layers of 1/2" plywood in alternating directions, then put the 1/2" sheetrock on top of it for the finished surface. We mocked up an 8' wall section like this, and they beat on it with a sledge hammer for a few minutes with no visible damage on the interior. Price-wise, it's not a whole lot cheaper than the polymer rock we looked at, but I can't imagine the sheetrock would be tougher. And as an added bonus, they can hang stuff anywhere on the wall.
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Mar 5, 2010 04:35
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I guess it's late information, but it's called quietrock
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Mar 6, 2010 04:12
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I need a new workshop. My old shop is 16x20 and getting very rickety. It was here when I moved into this house and was built by two 14 year old boys (seriously). I want to tear it down and replace it but I need to keep the cost down. How much cheaper is it to actually build a shed as opposed to buying one from Home Depot/Lowes? I'm also considering a pole building or something else.
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Mar 8, 2010 20:23
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wormil posted:I need a new workshop. My old shop is 16x20 and getting very rickety. It was here when I moved into this house and was built by two 14 year old boys (seriously). I want to tear it down and replace it but I need to keep the cost down. How much cheaper is it to actually build a shed as opposed to buying one from Home Depot/Lowes? I'm also considering a pole building or something else. 16x20 is not a shed; more like a small house.
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Mar 8, 2010 20:52
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wormil posted:I need a new workshop. My old shop is 16x20 and getting very rickety. It was here when I moved into this house and was built by two 14 year old boys (seriously). I want to tear it down and replace it but I need to keep the cost down. How much cheaper is it to actually build a shed as opposed to buying one from Home Depot/Lowes? I'm also considering a pole building or something else. A lot. You're paying for the convenience of having something pre-built. You're also going to want to check your town/city code. My experience is that anything over 120 square feet will require a building permit. Besides...16x20 isn't really a shed anymore. If you're used to 16x20, then a pole barn is going to be more up your alley.
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Mar 8, 2010 20:55
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Here's one for the crafters. What the hell are these called? You put them in toys to make them squeak. I can't figure out an official name, or where to buy them.
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Mar 8, 2010 22:24
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I googled "toy squeaker" and the first result was a dog toy company selling something with that same image in the description for $0.35
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Mar 8, 2010 22:30
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I hate clay. Long story short, we need to dig a 10' x 2' x 8' trench in hard-packed Pennsylvania clay dirt. This is in a basement crawlspace about 4' high. We're down about 3' so far, but it took all day and is getting ridiculous. Unfortunately, since it's indoors, digging machinery is out of the question and we're doing this all by hand. Any ideas on easier or faster ways to break this poo poo up? We have access to a jackhammer, the usual digging tools, and anything that would be on a well-stocked plumber's truck.
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Mar 8, 2010 23:07
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eddiewalker posted:I googled "toy squeaker" and the first result was a dog toy company selling something with that same image in the description for $0.35 That's exactly what I'm looking for! Thanks!
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Mar 8, 2010 23:09
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you ate my cat posted:Any ideas on easier or faster ways to break this poo poo up? Hire a bunch of Mexican day laborers, those guys bust their rear end.
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Mar 8, 2010 23:27
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you ate my cat posted:I hate clay. Long story short, we need to dig a 10' x 2' x 8' trench in hard-packed Pennsylvania clay dirt. This is in a basement crawlspace about 4' high. We're down about 3' so far, but it took all day and is getting ridiculous. Unfortunately, since it's indoors, digging machinery is out of the question and we're doing this all by hand. Don't tease us. What are you burying?
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Mar 8, 2010 23:44
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Richard Noggin posted:Don't tease us. What are you burying? See, Grandma just died so suddenly, and with my father losing his leg in that accident we just don't have money for a proper funeral, and.. No, seriously. The indoor sewer line is buried 10' down, and we're replacing it. We're good everywhere else except this crawlspace, and this clay is ridiculous.
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Mar 9, 2010 01:30
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wormil posted:Hire a bunch of Mexican day laborers, those guys bust their rear end.
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Mar 9, 2010 04:24
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This is a stupid question, but I want to hang bookshelves. They will be filled only with books, not lightweight knickknacks or anything, so they need to be able to handle serious weight. I found plain shelves at Ikea, but I have no idea how to hang them so they don't come out of the wall. I don't know what kind of walls I have. I live in a pre-war apartment building in New York. Is there a way to figure it out? I don't have super or landlord contact info, or a legal lease, so I can't ask anyone affiliated with the building. I borrowed my parents' stud finder, but it's old and may be crappy. It thinks pretty much everything is a stud. I think that's pretty unlikely. Ideally I'd like to hang two 6' bookshelves above my bed, so loving this up probably means dying in my sleep. I'd rather not.
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Mar 9, 2010 07:33
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i like nice words
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If everything's a "stud", then you most likely have plaster walls and a very old studfinder like you thought. Take the plate off a light switch or socket somewhere and look at the wall's insides. If that plate has been painted over a few times, then use a utility knife to cut thru all the paint layers around the edge of the outlet so you don't peel the paint off the wall when you remove the paint. If the wall's inside is white and powdery, then you have drywall. If it's gray and course, then you have plaster. As for hanging the shelves, just go to the hardware store and get some wall anchors that are rated for your wall material as well as much weight they'll have to support. You might also want a drill with some bits and probably a level.
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Mar 9, 2010 08:35
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kid sinister posted:If that plate has been painted over a few times, then use a utility knife to cut thru all the paint layers around the edge of the outlet so you don't peel the paint off the wall when you remove the paint.  The walls' paint is plain, stark white -- so the stuff inside is more brown than anything else. I'm guessing that counts as gray? It's kind of rough, but there is also white fragile-ish stuff around the edges. Mostly the wall seems, um, empty. I don't think that's supposed to be the case, right? I can borrow my parents' drill/bits and level -- that should work. The question is what kind of hangers I need for whatever my walls are made of. The thing is it sounded like as long as it wasn't mounted in studs, even with the serious stuff -- molly/toggle bolts -- at best it would rip giant chunks out of the wall, and that would fall on me on top of the books and the shelf. Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Mar 9, 2010 09:13
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Anne Whateley posted:You know exactly what kind of apartment this is, I think I'm in the right place! You can probably find the first stud from the receptacle you opened- I can't tell in the photo, but is there a stud to the right of it?
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Mar 9, 2010 11:55
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grover posted:That's plastered drywall. If an ultrasonic studfinder isn't working due to variations in plaster thickness, the alternate is the magnetic kind. It's a pain in the rear end, but you take this little pivoting magnet and run it back and forth across the wall until you see the magnet react to a nail/screw beneath the surface. Mark it, that's a stud. The next studs are likely 16" on either side. Beware you may have some trial and error to find the studs once you start drilling, though- the nails aren't necessarily right in the middle of the stud.  Another question. I want to hang a couple shelves on different walls. One of these walls has the bathroom on the other side. What are the chances I'll find what I think is a stud, drill into it, and then discover the hard way that it's a water pipe? Should I stick to the other walls and not hang anything on that one? (Bonus complication: I don't know if my other walls abut a bathroom/kitchen in the apartment next door.) I don't know if this is any clearer than my explanation: (the wall is obviously not actually that thick -- I live in a New York apartment building, not a 13th-c. Scottish stone fortress) Thank you guys so much. Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Mar 10, 2010 17:00
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Anne Whateley posted:I really apologize for being so clueless, but if there were a stud to the right of it, how could you tell? There's 2 ways. That gap looks big enough on the bottom that you might be able to peek inside with a flashlight. The other way it to stick something long and thin, preferably nonmetallic like a popsicle stick, in the gap in between the wall and the box and root around to see if you feel the stud. The chances of hitting a pipe are extremely slim. Drywall and plaster are only a half inch thick minimum. Pipes are placed in the center width of wall gaps, and those walls are framed out of 2x4s, so figure at least a full inch gap in between the inner wall surface and any pipes. Also, pipes are round and drill bits are pointed; you would have to hit that pipe dead on to not have the drill bit deflect off of it. Basically, stop drilling when you feel that you've got through the drywall/plaster. If you feel the resistance change while drilling, stop drilling and use a flashlight to peer in the hole and see if you hit a stud. In that case, you won't even need a anchor, just a screw will work. That being said, one of my idiot fraternity brothers did that very thing back in school trying to pirate cable, but he tried to drill a hole all the way through the wall...
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Mar 10, 2010 18:07
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I'm moving into a new house soon and it reaks of smoke and pets. Its all wood floor, no cloth to speak of in the empty house. I suppose I have to scrub the walls and floor. Any further suggestions? Suggestions on cleaning solution? My go-to is a baking soda paste with salt if abrasive is needed; then vinegar if it still needs it dwoloz fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Mar 11, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 22:03
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dwoloz posted:I'm moving into a new house soon and it reaks of smoke and pets. Its all wood floor, not cloth to speak of in the empty house. I suppose I have to scrub the walls and floor. Had the same problem. Kilz the walls. Twice at least.
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Mar 10, 2010 23:08
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Anne Whateley posted:I really apologize for being so clueless, but if there were a stud to the right of it, how could you tell? I realize this is like coming into the sewing and DIY fashion thread and being like "what are pants." Sorry By code, pipes are *supposed* to be 1.25" in from the face of the stud, and protected by a metal plate if they're not. So, if you have 1/2" drywall, using screws 1.75" or less *should* be fine. Unfortunately, pipes are not always installed per code, so, you never know. Honestly, I'd be more worried about hitting wires- pipes will make a mess, but wires could kill you. Wires are supposed to be 1.25" back, too, but are in ALL the walls. grover fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 23:12
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dwoloz posted:I'm moving into a new house soon and it reaks of smoke and pets. Its all wood floor, not cloth to speak of in the empty house. I suppose I have to scrub the walls and floor. Edit: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3235522
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Mar 10, 2010 23:16
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How can I fix a gate that's sagging outwards? When facing the front of the gate, the top is closer to you about 6 inches more than the bottom is. I believe it's because there used to be a wheel on the bottom and years of flex from pulling the top of the gate towards you have warped it. It's about 6 feet tall.
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Mar 10, 2010 23:23
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Can you post some photos of it? Most likely, it's warped boards, which would have to be replaced.
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Mar 10, 2010 23:40
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