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thaw0ut posted:my question: I have a prolimatech megashadow/megahalem heatsink cooling an i7 920 and corsair dominator 1600 ram with the heatspreaders on top. I was going to have a push/pull setup, but I can't fit the 'push' fan correctly on the heatsink because the heatspreaders are too high. I can fit one single 'pull' fan on the otherside. Will this be affective as having a single push fan blowing air through the heatsink? thanks. Does the Megahelem allow you to mount the fans up/down instead of forward/back? This should let you fit it in better and is even technically slightly cooler in a lot of cases.
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Feb 28, 2010 05:27
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Jetfire posted:I guess this would fit better in the Haus, but this shouldn't take more than one reply: I've had my WD Passport Ex-HD for a while, but the last time I tried to connect it to my computer it sort of clicked inside, and didn't connect. I tried it with another USB cable, and it worked. Can't hurt to run Data Lifeguard tools on it, if it throws any errors and you still happen to have warranty then you have grounds for and RMA.
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Feb 28, 2010 05:56
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RMA isn't really an option, since it was a gift/purchased in Hong Kong (I'm in Canada right now). Thanks for the advice from everyone, though 
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Feb 28, 2010 16:25
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Mark Larson posted:I have an Asus M3A78-EM and it specifically supports Phenom II X4, up to 140W, which would be the 965BE. Yeah, but the EM and the EMH HDMI have different BIOS versions, different processor compatibility lists, and I'd rather not purchase an expensive processor to have it not work
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Feb 28, 2010 18:16
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Deviant posted:Yeah, but the EM and the EMH HDMI have different BIOS versions, different processor compatibility lists, and I'd rather not purchase an expensive processor to have it not work Why does the EMH exist? I'm pretty sure my -EM has HDMI out.
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Feb 28, 2010 20:55
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I have an ancient abit motherboard attached to a lovely power supply that generates a lot of of interference on the integrated audio out, which is made worse by the 20-pin atx power connector being 1/4 an inch from the audio out  Unless there's some way to fix the sound without spending and money i'm gonna lay down a whopping six dollars (free shipping!) on this 5.1 card to replace it. i'm "fixing up" my old windows desktop, on a budget of nothing, to once again serve as a primary computer and this is what ive bolted together so far:
How long till this disaster implodes on itself?
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Feb 28, 2010 22:29
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NOTinuyasha posted:i'm "fixing up" my old windows desktop, on a budget of nothing, to once again serve as a primary computer and this is what ive bolted together so far: If it were me, I'd make a little money by selling those six (WTF?) hard drives whose space adds up to 3.01 TB and replacing them with two 1.5 TB drives. It costs about $150 for a pair of those, so if you can make that much selling the old stuff, you're set. I'd put any extra profit towards a good, used 350W power supply. I paid around $45 for a 500W SeaSonic a couple years ago, so maybe you can find one for $25-35. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 00:29
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I would trust this over your current power supply.
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Mar 1, 2010 00:51
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Zorilla posted:If it were me, I'd make a little money by selling those six (WTF?) hard drives whose space adds up to 3.01 TB and replacing them with two 1.5 TB drives. It costs about $150 for a pair of those, so if you can make that much selling the old stuff, you're set. I'm considering ditching the 250 and 160 so I can run using the onboard IDE/SATA controllers alone. Four hard drives isn't too unreasonable. Zorilla posted:Some motherboard, especially ones fro 5+ years ago, just have really noisy integrated audio no matter what. Your power supply may not be at fault. I have a bunch of these unknown black box power supplies purchased at shops in mainland china for less then $10. I remember trying a bunch of them and you could tell the quality by how bad the audio interference was. Some of them would destabilize my system and I had more then one blow up on me, which is how my dad taught me about capacitors . This was the "best" one and it's been in my box for a few years now with no issues. It's a lot cheaper to get a PCI video card then to swap the PSU. Srebrenica Surprise posted:I would trust this over your current power supply. I don't even know if a 300 watt psu would be enough. The SeaSonic specs only show peak output which is a little worrysome.
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Mar 1, 2010 01:39
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NOTinuyasha posted:I'm considering ditching the 250 and 160 so I can run using the onboard IDE/SATA controllers alone. Four hard drives isn't too unreasonable. The point he was making is that the 300W Seasonic he linked has more of a chance of satisfying your power requirements (and having the power in the right place ie: 12V/5V/3.3V rails) than the $10 Chinese special you're currently running. And its power will be cleaner. Seasonic PSU's are extremely solid, perhaps the overall best on the market (power/performance/quality). Your system isn't anything super powerful. Sir Nigel fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 02:41
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NOTinuyasha posted:I don't even know if a 300 watt psu would be enough. The SeaSonic specs only show peak output which is a little worrysome. You'd be surprised how little the power draw of a system usually is. Also, you could spend probably less than $200 on a cheap amd/mobo/ram combination and have a real new PC.
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Mar 1, 2010 03:30
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EDIT: Realized this should probably go in the Support area
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Mar 1, 2010 04:07
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NOTinuyasha posted:I have a bunch of these unknown black box power supplies purchased at shops in mainland china for less then $10. I remember trying a bunch of them and you could tell the quality by how bad the audio interference was. Some of them would destabilize my system and I had more then one blow up on me, which is how my dad taught me about capacitors As was mentioned earlier, that 800W figure is likely to be hugely exaggerated, and the manufacturer probably got it by overstating the max amperage on one of the rails that never actually sees heavy use.
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Mar 1, 2010 04:15
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Man, I wish I could find that post in AI with the guy asking about how to get rid of rust on his lovely old college car and when you looked at the pictures it was pretty much to the point where you wondered why him and half the car weren't falling out of the bottom. I'm not sure words can express the ridiculousness of throwing even more hard drives into a system you already know could fail at any minute, and I'm not sure that this isn't actually some sort of grand act of technological masochism seeing as how you admitted that it is a disaster, but I think you should live with the inability to store 1TB or so of hilarious image macros or whatever, sell a couple drives on SA-Mart, and pick up a good PSU. If I were in your situation I wouldn't worried about it imploding but something along the lines of the opposite.
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Mar 1, 2010 05:30
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Can anyone recommend a good SATA to USB adapter? I got one from Ebay that worked for a while before it stopped working, and possibly messed up the drive I was using. This is the third foreign USB external device I've had that had turned out to be awful. So I've had enough of cheap crap now.
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Mar 1, 2010 07:05
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SoulChicken posted:Im going to buy my Mum in the UK a PC. Where is the best place to buy a premade PC in England? Is it just down to Dell? What does she want from it, other than warranty? Consider a laptop, especially if the use is light.
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Mar 1, 2010 07:22
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:Man, I wish I could find that post in AI with the guy asking about how to get rid of rust on his lovely old college car and when you looked at the pictures it was pretty much to the point where you wondered why him and half the car weren't falling out of the bottom. To be fair the axillary IDE drives index and tag the hilarious image macros. I did a quick search and this Antec is actually cheaper because it's shipped free, 80 plus certified, and it's 380w instead of 300. I'll see how cheap I can get a used one off ebay. Edit: I've also been bidding on socket 939 dual cores for a while and the prices are higher then brand new AM3s, probably because of all the people with left over 939 motherboards that were supposed to be future proof. I was expecting it to be raining 4800+ X2s for nothing but instead there's stuff like this being bid to literally 5 times the cost of a brand new, faster X2 on newegg. I did find replacement motherboards I could potentially use that have AM2/AGP but I'd also have to get new RAM when I was just about to upgrade this to 3GB of DDR that I just happened to have, so I'll just see how my bidding war works out and just overclock whatever I get from 2.2 --> 2.8GHz to match the newer AM2s using my waste of money oversized copper heatsink. NOTinuyasha fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 14:11
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My current graphics card is dying on me (a 8800GT) and I'm looking to pick a new one. I took a peek at the lists in the sticky but the reviews for most of them aren't exactly glowing. I'm looking for a "bang for my buck" card, preferably under $200 (I'm actually looking at this right now, does anyone know if this is any good?). My current specs are: gigabyte P35-DS3L mobo 3.0Ghz Wolfsdale DualCore processor 4 gigs Corsair DDR2 Ram Should I upgrade the RAM to DDR3 while I'm at it? I've been out of the hardware loop for a while.
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Mar 2, 2010 01:34
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Can anyone tell me if I have the good or bad Q6600? I hear "B" means its the weaker chip but g0 means its the stronger, and mine says both   I recently got a Venomous 120 with a cheap-o 2000rpm fan on there to wick some extra heat. Its got my tj temp to 63 or so at 100% load with my chip at 3.2ghz. I'm running 1.45 volts, (1.5 is the max for the Q6600) but 63 is still very cool so heat is not limiting me at all so I'd like to try for 3.4ghz. The problem is that even at 1.5 volts Prime95 gives me hardware failure messages at 3.4ghz, which I think are caused by a lack of power. Is there any way around this? I'm unwilling to put more than 1.5 volts into the chip since thats the upper limit according to intel. Would it draw less power if I upped the FSB to 425 and dropped the multiplier to 8? Or is there some other solution? Changer Of The Ways posted:My current graphics card is dying on me (a 8800GT) and I'm looking to pick a new one. I took a peek at the lists in the sticky but the reviews for most of them aren't exactly glowing. I'm looking for a "bang for my buck" card, preferably under $200 (I'm actually looking at this right now, does anyone know if this is any good?). I'd go with this one. I got one for xmas and it is very, very nice for the price. Its also a dx11 card and overclocks quite nicely if you set up a good fan speed profile through MSI afterburner or something. I got mine up to 900/1300mhz on stock cooling in a very poorly ventilated case. I've heard of people getting them much higher with good cooling. Changer Of The Ways posted:Should I upgrade the RAM to DDR3 while I'm at it? I've been out of the hardware loop for a while. DDR3 wont fit into a DDR2 slot. If you are getting a new mobo that supports it then sure, but if you have a DDR2 board then its going to be a costly upgrade for you. zarg fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 01:54
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When considering the quality of a processor, what do you guys look at? Speed and number of cores? Or is there more?
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Mar 2, 2010 02:15
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sdlibervir posted:When considering the quality of a processor, what do you guys look at? Speed and number of cores? Or is there more? Generally speaking, in hardware there are only a few good choices for any given part. There are not a lot of metrics beyond performance and price, and there are also not a whole lot of CPUs out there, relatively speaking. So I don't look at anything to judge "quality" beyond what I know to be excellent price/performance, and I wouldn't suggest you do it either. It's not like shopping for a car, or even something like a laptop, where a lot of things might sort of average out and you can choose based on features that appeal to you. The only processors to buy right now, at least for a gaming system, really are the X2 240, X3 435/X4 620, and i5 750 - the rest in their respective lines are usually too expensive for what you get (i7 860) or underpowered for what you get (the dual core i5s), and the only reason to choose one over the other of those three is budget.
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Mar 2, 2010 02:33
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zarg posted:I'd go with this one. I got one for xmas and it is very, very nice for the price. Its also a dx11 card and overclocks quite nicely if you set up a good fan speed profile through MSI afterburner or something. I got mine up to 900/1300mhz on stock cooling in a very poorly ventilated case. I've heard of people getting them much higher with good cooling. What's a good starting point for non-stock cooling? I'm looking to delve into overclocking a bit since the 8800GT didn't exactly fulfill my expectations (don't get me wrong, it was a great card, but it could have been a bit better).
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Mar 2, 2010 03:55
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Changer Of The Ways posted:What's a good starting point for non-stock cooling? I'm looking to delve into overclocking a bit since the 8800GT didn't exactly fulfill my expectations (don't get me wrong, it was a great card, but it could have been a bit better). No idea on video cards, sorry. Hopefully someone here can help you but I've never run a GPU hot enough to need extra cooling. You can eeke a bit extra out of stock with decent airflow so I'm normally happy with that if I feel I need to OC my card at all.
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Mar 2, 2010 04:00
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Changer Of The Ways posted:My current graphics card is dying on me (a 8800GT) and I'm looking to pick a new one. I took a peek at the lists in the sticky but the reviews for most of them aren't exactly glowing. I'm looking for a "bang for my buck" card, preferably under $200 (I'm actually looking at this right now, does anyone know if this is any good?). That GTS 250 is way overpriced for its performance. The 250 is roughly equivalent to a 4850, which can be had for $40 less. The 5770 that was suggested earlier is a good choice, or if you want to save money go for the 4850. Not sure about what you mean about the recommendations in the stickied parts-picking thread. The choices there really are the most sensible, with the most bang/buck. Finally, you'd get no performance benefit by switching to DDR3 on its own (and in case you don't realize, you'd need a new motherboard to do it in any case). Unless you're switching to a new processor that needs DDR3 there's no reason to change it.
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Mar 2, 2010 17:25
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thaw0ut posted:my question: I have a prolimatech megashadow/megahalem heatsink cooling an i7 920 and corsair dominator 1600 ram with the heatspreaders on top. I was going to have a push/pull setup, but I can't fit the 'push' fan correctly on the heatsink because the heatspreaders are too high. I can fit one single 'pull' fan on the otherside. Will this be affective as having a single push fan blowing air through the heatsink? thanks. Sounds like we have almost identical components. As ~Coxy already mentioned, I rotated my Megashadow 90° to fit a push/pull set up. Works well enough for me, fwiw.
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Mar 2, 2010 18:53
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alltoohuman posted:
Ah, I just meant that the Newegg reviews weren't the best in the world (granted, they were still pretty good). In the interest of getting my PC up and running ASAP I looked at Best Buy's selection of video cards (far from the best, I know - I'll check Fry's tomorrow), are 9800GTX's still pretty good? I never could keep track of which series was comparable with which and iirc 9800GT's were also pretty good back 2 or 3 years so I dunno how they stack up nowadays. Failing that, I see 4890s are also pretty good, and they've got those at BB too - maybe one of those?
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Mar 3, 2010 00:13
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What is your resolution?
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Mar 3, 2010 01:06
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1680x1050
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Mar 3, 2010 01:42
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I just set up two hard drives in a RAID 0 configuration before I (re)installed Windows 7. I really didn't know much about it... Do I need to do anything else to get the most out of them? The motherboard is an older Asus P5Q-Pro. Asus' site shows three drivers in the SATA section for this board: - Intel Matrix Storage Manager Driver - Marvell 6121 SATA Driver V1.2.0.69 for 32/64bit Windows7 - Marvell 88SE6111 SATA Controller Driver V1.2.0.69 for Windows 7 & Windows 64bit 7 (WHQL) Should I install any or all of these?
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Mar 3, 2010 01:58
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Changer Of The Ways posted:1680x1050 Danger Mahoney posted:I just set up two hard drives in a RAID 0 configuration 
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Mar 3, 2010 02:11
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:Well golly gee what's wrong with that? (It's much nicer to help out)
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Mar 3, 2010 02:26
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I just upgraded from 2 to 4 gigs of RAM, but for some reason my computer doesn't seem to be recognizing the upgrade. When I check System Properties it lists my current RAM as 2.5 GB, but when I checked the the memory in CPUID, it recognizes I have a total of 4 GB split between two sticks. I've tried moving the new RAM around to different slots, and made sure it's properly connected, but System Properties refuses to recognize anything more than 2.5GB. Am I missing a step somewhere?
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Mar 3, 2010 02:50
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:4890's a little overkill for that res, but seeing as how there's really no better deal on the market right now and 4890s are getting rare, go for it. Make sure you have a decent enough PSU to handle it, though. I've got a 500w, think that'll do it? Thanks for the help!
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Mar 3, 2010 03:12
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500W power supply should be fine for a 4890, especially if it has two dedicated GPU power lines. Some 500W PSUs can be pretty poo poo (500W 'peak power'! Single 18A 12V rail!), but if it's not an eBay special then you'd be good to go.
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Mar 3, 2010 03:35
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Changer Of The Ways posted:I've got a 500w, think that'll do it? Thanks for the help! Post the model here. Wattage doesn't mean anything. Pastabus posted:I just upgraded from 2 to 4 gigs of RAM, but for some reason my computer doesn't seem to be recognizing the upgrade. When I check System Properties it lists my current RAM as 2.5 GB, but when I checked the the memory in CPUID, it recognizes I have a total of 4 GB split between two sticks. I've tried moving the new RAM around to different slots, and made sure it's properly connected, but System Properties refuses to recognize anything more than 2.5GB. Am I missing a step somewhere? Are you running a 64-bit copy of Windows?
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Mar 3, 2010 03:41
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:Post the model here. Wattage doesn't mean anything. Antec Earthwatts EA-500D
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Mar 3, 2010 03:54
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You are definitely more than fine! Just don't let Best Buy charge you anything over $240 or so for it. If it's something ridiculous like $300, you could get one-day shipping on NewEgg on a already overpriced GTX 275 and probably still come out ahead, much less something like a 5770.
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Mar 3, 2010 03:59
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Srebrenica Surprise posted:Are you running a 64-bit copy of Windows? I had thought I was using 64bit system, but on closer inspection, it turns out its only 32bit. Since I'm not running the 64bit version, does this mean the extra RAM is useless, or will it just affect the efficiency at which it's used? It seems that most of my programs are still running noticeably faster as is. Thanks for your help.
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Mar 3, 2010 04:13
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Pastabus posted:Since I'm not running the 64bit version, does this mean the extra RAM is useless, or will it just affect the efficiency at which it's used?
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Mar 3, 2010 04:18
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I'm confused about setting up RAID-0 on my new build. I haven't done a RAID configuration before and I had a few questions. For OS performance, what strip size should I use for Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit. For my storage partition I was going to use 128KB strip sizes. I heard for the OS/Applications/Games partition you want to use a smaller strip size such as 32KB or 64KB.
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Mar 3, 2010 06:12
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