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Paul MaudDib posted:Guys, you don't need film leader retrievers. Go to Walmart, buy a bottle opener. There should be a grabby end and a pointy end. Use the grabby end on the edge of the cap of the film roll, try to leverage against the top of the spool. It's crimped on but it'll bend loose. The spool will come out once the top's off. Not busting up the cartridge so that you can re-use the roll without having to re-load it into another one? He was't asking how to get it out so he could develop it.
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Feb 26, 2010 19:40
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I rip film canisters open with my bare hands because I'm a real man. What is wrong with everyone? Why are you using can openers? Weaklings. Also, I just ripped open a canister, got the leader out, and bent it back together, I think it's still pretty light tight. Also, why shop at wal-mart? go to a nice mom & pop can opener store, if you really need one 
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Feb 26, 2010 20:12
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Have any of you guys used the Konica Minolta DiMage Scan Dual IV? It's a bit old but I expect it will give me a lot better results than my current flatbed (Canon 5600F). There's one selling locally that I'll keep my eye on.
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Feb 27, 2010 06:15
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A friend of a friend lent me his Canon FT with a 55mm f/1.2 FL tonight, I am so excited to play with it. 
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Feb 27, 2010 07:07
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trueblue posted:Have any of you guys used the Konica Minolta DiMage Scan Dual IV? It's a bit old but I expect it will give me a lot better results than my current flatbed (Canon 5600F). There's one selling locally that I'll keep my eye on. That's the neg scanner I have. I got it in 2005. It's pretty solid all around but there are two small drawbacks. -First and foremost, and maybe NOT so small, K/M is no longer in the imaging business. There's no drivers for Vista or Win7. I have my scanner on another computer running WinXP and have the destination mapped to a drive on my main machine. -Depending on how well or poorly your B&W film is developed, it may confuse the scanner into blowing out the grain and biasing everything towards middle grey. The easiest fix is to scan in color and convert to B&W in post, but it's not a sure bet. So color scans work wonderfully, especially transparencies. You can check my Flickr page for examples of both color and B&W. All my color shots save one are negative scans. If you go back to the older stuff you'll see B&W negative scans and the difference is pretty apparent. These days I just use the neg scanner to proof B&Ws and I post flatbed scans of actual darkroom prints which look way better. Overall I'd say go for it. I bought mine new and it's been great. It's a great package if you can find it used for a good price.
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Feb 27, 2010 07:47
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Thanks for the info McMadCow. drat, I forgot about Konica Minolta closing shop with photo stuff, and it's particularly annoying because I'm running Windows 7 x64. It looks as though it may run under VueScan though - but that is added expense. If it stays cheap I'll probably pick it up, otherwise maybe I should just go with a cheap Plustek one.
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Feb 27, 2010 09:00
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Sorry for the double post, but I just wanted to check how the following looks as a beginner's set of chemicals: Anything you'd recommend I'd add/change/remove? Thanks for any help.
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Feb 27, 2010 16:57
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If you want to save ten bucks, just use water with no clearing agent. Also I use a drop of dishwashing rinse aid instead of photoflo and that works really well too, no water spots. But then again there's nothing wrong with having the proper chemicals on hand if you are Ok with spending the money.
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Feb 27, 2010 18:05
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You might want to get stop bath depending on your development process. It's really cheap and I think it can extend the life of your fix, but probably not by that much. I also worry about rinsing fast enough, mostly with metal developing tanks.
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Feb 27, 2010 19:02
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What are the online options for Canadian film and film developing supplies? I live in Halifax, and it cost me $18 last time for a roll of Tri-X and Tmax (including my 10% student discount). Is there anywhere online that will cheaper for me, or is this the sort of cost I can expect from this new hobby?
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Feb 27, 2010 22:55
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Did you mail order them or something? That's pretty up there 
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Feb 27, 2010 23:05
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Martytoof posted:Did you mail order them or something? That's pretty up there I bought it in-store at a camera shop down here. Is... is that high? 
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Feb 27, 2010 23:53
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DRP Solved! posted:I bought it in-store at a camera shop down here. Is... is that high? Dont know about Canada, but in the good old US of A you get at least 5 rolls of Tri-X for 18 USD. Now I have a query of my own. I seem to have gotten some nasty water stains on my negatives. I have did quick scans of them and put them into sleeves for now. I assume that when it comes to rescanning, I can just wash/rinse them with water again and dry to get rid of them, with no detriment to the negative?
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Feb 28, 2010 01:01
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Yeah, I got five rolls of Delta-400 at Henry's for ~$24CDN so I'm going to say that's pretty high.
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Feb 28, 2010 01:22
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Are these worth getting to fool around with, or are they just cheap Chinese crap?
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Feb 28, 2010 01:51
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Pyruvate posted:Are these worth getting to fool around with, or are they just cheap Chinese crap? All the downsides of a medium format camera with none of the upsides.
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Feb 28, 2010 02:52
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Putrid Grin posted:Dont know about Canada, but in the good old US of A you get at least 5 rolls of Tri-X for 18 USD.
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Feb 28, 2010 03:09
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Get ready to rage out, everyone: http://www.disposablefilmfest.com/ quote:The Disposable Film Festival was created in 2007 to celebrate the artistic potential of disposable video: short films made on non-professional devices such as one-time use video cameras, cell phones, point and shoot cameras, webcams, computer screen capture software, and other readily available video capture devices. With people everywhere gaining access to these devices, we felt the time was right to draw attention to the creative potential of this new mode of filmmaking. Far beyond its initial roles for video blogging and documentation, the DFF offers a forum to display how disposable media can be used for creative purposes. The DFF hosts screenings, competitions, and other events to showcase the best work within the disposable genre.
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Feb 28, 2010 03:30
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Pyruvate posted:Are these worth getting to fool around with, or are they just cheap Chinese crap? OTOH, the Chinese Seagull TLR's are pretty decent for the money (less than $50).
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Feb 28, 2010 04:46
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Pompous Rhombus posted:OTOH, the Chinese Seagull TLR's are pretty decent for the money (less than $50). I've got one of those that I bought in Shanghai for $20. It came with a free rusted-out 120 spool :iamafag: It's actually quite good considering it cost less than a few rolls of positive film. Great contrast in the lens, and no light leaks or horrible vignetting or anything else. I'm not sure yet how accurate the shutter is, but it *can* take perfectly exposed shots so at least I know it works. I don't use it all that much, though -- I do most of my 120 work with a Voigtlander folder that's smaller than my DSLR 
orange lime fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 10:00
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orange lime posted:I don't use it all that much, though -- I do most of my 120 work with a Voigtlander folder that's smaller than my DSLR Most TLRs are smaller than DSLRs with lenses on, aren't they?
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Mar 1, 2010 16:21
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NYC film lovers, any recommendations for a B&W processing? I used MV Labs before but their prices have gotten pretty high ($20 per roll, +$5 for contact sheet)
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Mar 2, 2010 03:09
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Massive posted:NYC film lovers, any recommendations for a B&W processing? I used MV Labs before but their prices have gotten pretty high ($20 per roll, +$5 for contact sheet) Hahaha, what? You can almost buy everything you need to do B&W processing at home for that much. You don't need a real darkroom for processing, just a changing bag to load it from the cannisters onto the reels and put them into the tank. Thanks for the dilution tips earlier, McMadCow. I went with HC-110 (thought the bag of Kodak fixer I had was D-76, whoops) dilution H for 5:30 to pull Plus-X to ISO 50. From the looks of the negatives, everything came out fine.
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Mar 2, 2010 03:22
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Massive posted:NYC film lovers, any recommendations for a B&W processing? I used MV Labs before but their prices have gotten pretty high ($20 per roll, +$5 for contact sheet) Manhattan Color Labs on 20th between 5th and 6th. They're who I go to for all my poo poo.
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Mar 2, 2010 04:19
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It arrived   Now the only thing stopping me shooting with it is the Russian postal service...
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Mar 2, 2010 04:56
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Craigslist is awesome. I just got all this from a nearby private school's photo department, they had box after box of gear that had been donated or bequeathed to them and they wanted to sell some of it for fundraising. After two hours of sifting, I got all of these for eighty bucks total. Pretty dusty but everything seems to work fine.   M42 Screwmount Bodies, both working: Hanimex Praktica Super TL (separate purchase on ebay that just arrived, $10) Zenit-B M42 Screwmount Lenses: Meyer Optik Gorlitz Oreston 50mm f1.8 (came with ebay praktica) Helios 44-2 58mm f/2.0 (Zenit-B kit) Auto Yashinon-DX 200mm f/4 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 55mm f/1.4 (looks gorgeous) Magnon Wide Auto 35mm f/2.8 (who the hell is Magnon? free lens) Magnon Auto Telephoto 135mm f/2.8 (coating is spotty, was also free) P/K Lenses(for my main film camera, a k1000): Vivitar Auto Wide-Angle 28mm f/2 (to replace my horrible Focal 28mm f/2.8) Vivitar Series 1 Macro Focusing Auto Zoom 70-210mm f/3.5 Film of unknown ages: Sensia Daylight 100 - 3 rolls Kodachrome 25 - 1 roll Kodachrome 64 - 4 rolls + several already exposed Kodachrome 200 - 3 rolls Elitechrome 100 - 2 rolls Elitechrome 200 - 3 rolls Hand-spooled Plus-X 125 - 2 rolls Sho100? - 1 roll Assorted Fuji Superia, Super HQ, Kodak Max, Kodak Gold: ~28 rolls Also included several skylight filters, a camera bag, and a daylight changing bag. All for eighty bucks. She also had a ton of really nice Minolta, Canon, Nikon, and Olympus OM gear, along with a Canon VT rangefinder that looked pretty rad. She gave my friend her Canon 5D and an L-series 70-200(?) for FREE... but it was because she got hit by a rogue wave while photographing a storm with it, barely avoided getting dragged out to sea herself, camera got soaked and ruined. Lens grinds with sand. Canon wouldn't fix either one so she just was keeping it around as a paperweight. The lens might still work in manual though, the helical sounds horrible but the glass itself seemed fine. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Mar 3, 2010 |
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Mar 3, 2010 03:44
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Craigslist is awesome. Whoa, nice. Be sure to shoot that Kodachrome, Dwayne's is going to stop processing it in December, and after that we're all poo poo outta luck. Elitechrome 400 is probably my favorite film for cross-processing.
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Mar 3, 2010 04:38
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Kodachrome 64 - 4 rolls + several already exposed Develop it! I love finding rolls of exposed film in old cameras. I got a Voigtlander MF folder with a roll of 120 Verichrome in it and managed to get some severely fogged (but still usable) shots of a garbage dump, a car from the 1960s and some rapids.
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Mar 3, 2010 04:43
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Whoa, nice. Be sure to shoot that Kodachrome, Dwayne's is going to stop processing it in December, and after that we're all poo poo outta luck. Aye, definitely going to use it. I'll probably run it through the K1000 for that so I don't have to worry about metering fuckups. It'll cost about eighty bucks to get that K14 stuff all processed, but hey, might as well. Elitechrome 100 has been pretty cool fun for xpro, haven't tried 400 yet. I've still got a couple of found rolls of Elitechrome and Velvia laying around, as well as one last roll of Ektachrome 100 Saturated/Warm that I'm saving for a special occasion, that stuff is absolutely beautiful. The nearby pro-shop has been selling me rolls of really expired but cold-stored 36mm Ektachrome 100 and Minolta VX100 (120 format) for 99 cents a roll if I chat them up first. C-41 develop-only processing for 36mm/120/220 is $2.99 there and they don't charge any extra for cross-processing. I just need to find access to a good scanner again, harumph. First attempt at cross-processing from a few weeks ago with expired Elitechrome 100:  orange lime posted:Develop it! I love finding rolls of exposed film in old cameras. I got a Voigtlander MF folder with a roll of 120 Verichrome in it and managed to get some severely fogged (but still usable) shots of a garbage dump, a car from the 1960s and some rapids. Definitely interested to see what's on there. Also found a roll of used Tmax 100 (120) rolling around in there, sealed up with the "EXPOSED" sticker, I'll develop that one myself. I wonder... what do you guys think of having a Found Photography thread? Or is that something that should just stay in this one?
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Mar 3, 2010 04:58
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Hey gang! Just lurking lately. But just wanted to make you aware of the "Inside Analog Photo Radio" Podcast on iTunes, if you don't already know about it. I listen to it every once in a while. I like it because SOME of the segments have invaluable infos that aren't 'written' anywhere...you just have to listen and pick up the tips. As an analog fiend who is reluctant to digitize...this show has given me good advice about how to explore all facets of photography media. Yeah, the commercials are kinda annoying, and how he picks photographers is 'beyond me'...still, some of those segments are hella fun and informative. There's no link. You just gotta go to iTunes and look up 'inside analog photo radio' on the podcast tab. Love to all my analog friends! -spritely
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Mar 3, 2010 06:58
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spritely posted:invaluable infos that aren't 'written' anywhere... Do you have any examples of this?
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Mar 3, 2010 07:30
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Trying out the Silverfast demo in a vain attempt to get better scans out of my Canoscan 8600f. I need to replace it I think. Scanning: Unmounted 35mm slide film, Velvia 100, in the original canoscan negative carrier. 100% Crops (Uncompressed PNG): -Scangear 4800DPI 8bit -Silverfast 4800DPI 16bit multiscan Web optimized jpgs, no colour correction: -Scangear -Silverfast Conclusions: Silverfast certainly improves the dynamic range with the multi-scans, as far as I can tell. But the improvements aren't all that compelling since there's only so much this machine can do. The most obvious thing wrong, however, is that this scanner isn't focused properly on the film plane, as detail is murky as heck at 100%, and never shows clear grain on b/w. Unfortunately there's no real way to adjust that.
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Mar 3, 2010 07:57
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That's my biggest worry with my Epson Perfection 3200 as well. I use the stock carrier, but I can't help but notice that it doesn't always hold film perfectly flat. There's no way that the scanner optics are focusing the entire frame correctly. But I'll be damned if I can afford a anti-newton glass film gate, no matter how much I want one Also I switched from VueScan to SilverFast and haven't looked back yet. The program is clunky as gently caress but it seems to produce better results.
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Mar 3, 2010 08:14
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Pt.2: B/W, 35mm HP5 400 Web Sized: -Scangear 4800 16bit greyscale -Silverfast 4800 16bit greyscale multiscan Scanned to Film Target Ilford Hp5 400 No fullsize crops here, because there's just no point. Both look muddy and terrible at full resolution, which I know is wrong, as I've made wet-prints of this, and found the negative to be both in critical focus in parts, and to have well defined grain under magnification. In addition, the multiscanned version somehow seems to have lost dynamic range over the single scan. One of these days I'm gonna shell out the $45 to get a single 35mm frame drum-scanned, and I'll be even more mad at home scanning solutions. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Mar 3, 2010 |
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Mar 3, 2010 08:36
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Reichstag posted:One of these days I'm gonna shell out the $45 to get a single 35mm frame drum-scanned, and I'll be even more mad at home scanning solutions. If you're feeling adventurous, old drum scanners pop up for cheap all the time. Most of them will only work with a computer of similar vintage, though, and half the time they don't include the manufacturer's software. But if babysitting OS 8 or Win95 installs on 10-year-old hardware sounds like fun, you're in luck!
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Mar 3, 2010 17:01
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I've thought about it, but used drum scanners still generally go for upwards of $800, not counting the cost of getting a drum or two and a loading station for the drum, not to mention shipping, which is a major concern given that these things can weigh more than 200lbs. But if I ever see one locally for not much money, I'm jumping on it.
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Mar 3, 2010 17:59
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:APX 100 in Rodinal is one of my absolute most favorite combinations. It's gorgeous, the negatives look three-dimensional on a light table. Where do you recommend buying it? Freestylephoto doesn't seem to carry it. Also, can someone recommend a development tank? I have two identical black plastic tanks that hold two 35mm rolls each. The white plastic rolls that you ratchet the film onto are shot. They don't seem to last very long.
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Mar 4, 2010 01:31
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Associate Christ
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Also, can someone recommend a development tank? I have two identical black plastic tanks that hold two 35mm rolls each. The white plastic rolls that you ratchet the film onto are shot. They don't seem to last very long. I've got a Patterson tank with two of those plastic reels, mine have been holding up great after a year or so. I bought it used too, so who knows how many rolls have been through them. I also got a stainless steel tank with a pair of 35mm reels (as well as 4-5 spools for 120) that came with the enlarger I picked up last week, but they look like they'd be more of a PITA to use than the plastic ones. Haven't tried/risked any film on them yet.
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Mar 4, 2010 01:43
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Also, can someone recommend a development tank? I have two identical black plastic tanks that hold two 35mm rolls each. The white plastic rolls that you ratchet the film onto are shot. They don't seem to last very long. Why don't you buy new reels if the tanks are still good?
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Mar 4, 2010 01:44
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HPL posted:Why don't you buy new reels if the tanks are still good? Sure, I was just wondering if there is a brand I should try to find, or any I should try to avoid. I don't know if these didn't hold up because I was rough with them, or if they are just cheap.
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Mar 4, 2010 01:51
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