|
Mthrboard posted:Well, as far as the shower goes, I took apart the valve, and everything was completely clear that I could see. I reassembled everything, turned it on, and now the water is piping hot. Maybe something was out of whack previously, who knows.
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 05:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 07:24 |
|
|
I've got what I hope is a simple plumbing question. I've moved the wall drain for my washing machine. The old drain is galvanized steel with a roof vent. I'm thinking that I might just leave the old plumbing in place and bury it behind the new wall or at the very least, bury the roof vent behind the wall and take out the old drain and p-trap. So my question is - What is the best way to cap the roof vent? Can I use one of those rupper quick caps with the pipe clamp or is there a better/more permanent solution?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:17
|
|
|
If you wire brush the threads you can put a cap on there with some wrenches. If you choose to go th erubber cap route you should be fine till you can patch the hole int he roof.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:45
|
|
|
Thanks for the info. Was just up on the roof to install a temporary rubber cap and it looks like it's just straight pipe. I probably won't be completing this project for a while so I'll just leave it capped off for now and pull the whole pipe and fix the roof.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:00
|
|
|
TouchyMcFeely posted:Thanks for the info. Was just up on the roof to install a temporary rubber cap and it looks like it's just straight pipe. Why not just capt the hold drain in the wall and leave the vent open? It wont hurt anything to have it open.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:47
|
|
|
I'm concerned that it will fill up with water if I cap it in the wall. It's just an open pipe pointed at the sky. When I moved the drain I disconnected the vent from the plumbing as well. I installed a AAV with the new plumbing but the old vent and drain aren't attached to anything anymore.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:54
|
|
|
TouchyMcFeely posted:I'm concerned that it will fill up with water if I cap it in the wall. It's just an open pipe pointed at the sky. Oh sorry I thought you were just taking out the P trap. Now i see why you capped it at the roof.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:55
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:To adjust that missing valve did you loosen the screw in the center and then pull the handle out a little then turn it? It has a tamper proof screw to keep people from adjusting it. No, I didn't try that...but the valve has a factory sticker on the knob covering the screw. I tried it just now out of curiosity, and it still wouldn't budge no matter how loose the screw was. I did just find a manual for this valve online with a plumbing schematic that shows a check valve should be installed on the cold side, I'm guessing to prevent the exact situation I was having. I'm going to take apart the valve and see if I can can get it spinning again, then if I need to revert back, I will follow the schematic and install a proper check valve. But so far, the lower temp and direct connections seem to be working fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 05:00
|
|
|
So another quick question - Can I use the flexible rubber couplers if they are going to be buried behind a wall or am I better off using rigid, glue on ABS couplers instead?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 17:22
|
|
|
A fernco is approved if if it has a metal wrap around it. (Home depot sells them). If you can use a glue abs coupling i would. You only use a fernco if you have no room to move the pipe to install a coupling.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 17:30
|
|
|
Just to be sure, you're talking about this style correct? I figured the ABS coupler would be better but unfortunately it's a pretty tight area I have to work with and I don't know if it will fit. I'll probably buy both and try the ABS first but if there isn't room go for the rubber. Thanks again!
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 17:40
|
|
|
TouchyMcFeely posted:Just to be sure, you're talking about this style correct? Yep tha'ts a fernco, now if the coupling doesnt work you will have to cut it out and put in two fernco's since theirs only like a less than a 1/4inch gap between both pipes on a fernco. All you have to do is roll the rubber of the fernco with the shield below it, then roll the rubber back over when the other pipe is lined up. Slide shield over rubber pipe and tighten with a nut driver.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
Huh. That shielded thing is probably what I should have on my main sewer pipe, then? Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Edit - oh, maybe not since the pipe is exposed rather than behind a wall.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 19:26
|
|
|
Been having trouble with my kitchen sink draining extremely slowly. the blockage is further down the line because it takes a minute to fill up then it does not drain nearly at all. I took the p-trap off and ran a smaller snake down the pipe about 6-7 feet or so. It made no difference. Any suggestions on what to do?
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2010 05:09
|
|
|
Sybok posted:Been having trouble with my kitchen sink draining extremely slowly. the blockage is further down the line because it takes a minute to fill up then it does not drain nearly at all. I took the p-trap off and ran a smaller snake down the pipe about 6-7 feet or so. It made no difference. Any suggestions on what to do? You could try a water jet. It hooks up to a hose and you shove it down the drain. it shoots out a tiny jet of water to clear the clogs. I cant find a picture on amazon.com becuase i cant find the exact name. You're only other choice would be calling professional with a bigger powered snake.
|
|
#
?
Mar 8, 2010 18:04
|
|
|
The last few times I've run the dishwasher there is a strong sewer smell afterward coming from the sink drains and faintly from the dishwasher. A couple of months ago we had the pipes under the kitchen snaked and since then the drains are working great. The traps are intact and there don't appear to be any leaks. But this smell is disgusting and I need to do something asap. Any ideas why the smell is getting out of the vents? Plugged vent? But then why wouldn't it smell all the time?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 03:28
|
|
|
wormil posted:The last few times I've run the dishwasher there is a strong sewer smell afterward coming from the sink drains and faintly from the dishwasher. A couple of months ago we had the pipes under the kitchen snaked and since then the drains are working great. The traps are intact and there don't appear to be any leaks. But this smell is disgusting and I need to do something asap. Any ideas why the smell is getting out of the vents? Plugged vent? But then why wouldn't it smell all the time? If the vents are plugged the trap will get siphoned cuase of the vacuum.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 06:15
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the vents are plugged the trap will get siphoned cuase of the vacuum. Does that mean a plugged vent could be causing the problem? Is there an easy way to unplug it? Run a water hose down there? Or do I need to snake it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 07:30
|
|
|
wormil posted:Does that mean a plugged vent could be causing the problem? Is there an easy way to unplug it? Run a water hose down there? Or do I need to snake it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 07:39
|
|
|
Okay thanks. I'm off tomorrow then to beg, borrow or buy a snake.
|
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 08:00
|
|
|
wormil posted:Okay thanks. I'm off tomorrow then to beg, borrow or buy a snake. You can get a drum snake for like $15 at home depot.Its not a bad tool to own. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Mar 9, 2010 |
|
#
?
Mar 9, 2010 16:42
|
|
|
Update on sewer smell from drains/dishwaser: I haven't snaked anything yet but I went up on the roof and shined a high power flashdown down each vent stack and there were no obstructions I could see, and I could see down a long way. I'm going to buy a snake anyway but are there other potential causes?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2010 20:30
|
|
|
wormil posted:Update on sewer smell from drains/dishwaser: I haven't snaked anything yet but I went up on the roof and shined a high power flashdown down each vent stack and there were no obstructions I could see, and I could see down a long way. I'm going to buy a snake anyway but are there other potential causes? Did you snake the vent that was close to the fixture that is smelling. Have you troubleshooted where the smell is coming from. I mean plug the drain and see if the smell stops. If it doesn't then you may have a clean out leaking. Have you opened up the p trap and seen if there is water in it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2010 20:33
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Did you snake the vent that was close to the fixture that is smelling. Have you troubleshooted where the smell is coming from. I mean plug the drain and see if the smell stops. If it doesn't then you may have a clean out leaking. No, haven't snaked anything yet. There is water in the p trap. It occurred to me that this started after I began using a bacteria based drain cleaner that is supposed to eat fats. I began to wonder if this stuff was feeding on food waste and producing gas. So I poured a cup of bleach down each drain and into the dishwasher, waited 15 minutes, flushed with hot water and 2 hot rinses through the dishwasher -- no smell. I'm running the dishwasher right now and I'll know if there is any change in about 30 minutes or so. If it does smell then tomorrow I'll snake the vent. Update, still stinks. Plugging the drains had no effect. wormil fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 11, 2010 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2010 03:17
|
|
|
If there is water in the P trap then the smell isnt coming from there. You have a broken or open line some where. Is there any clean outs on the kitchen sink?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2010 06:36
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If there is water in the P trap then the smell isnt coming from there. You have a broken or open line some where. Is there any clean outs on the kitchen sink? Any clean outs would be under the house. I'll go under to check things out.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2010 20:23
|
|
|
We've noticed that the pedestal sink in our downstairs bathroom is a bit wobbly. It turns out that it is completely missing the two bolts that mount the underside of the bowl to the wall. They didn't even drill holes, the previous owners just forgot or were lazy. Awesome. Also in their laziness, they extended the drain pipe tailpiece by having it simply sit in the P-trap. No slip nut, no washer. This, with the wobbly basin, make for a sink that is prone to leaking. I have it all disassembled, and I bought a proper pipe extension tube. My problem is that the diameter of the tailpiece is smaller than 1-1/2 inch standard pipe. I guess it's 1-1/4? It's PVC, I have no idea what the standard diameters are. What can I do here? What type of adapter do I need? I'd rather not have to weld anything if I can help it. Some googling brings up types such as schedule 40 and 80 and mips and I have no idea what these terms mean or what I am dealing with. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2010 22:05
|
|
Associate Christ
|
Unless you got some serious clearance underneath that sink, you'll have to take that bowl off of the wall to be able to drill pilot holes to attach the bolts. If it wasn't attached, then it's possible that they didn't line the up the sink to the studs properly, in which case you may need to move the sink left or right to attach it properly. Is that wall drywall, plaster or tile with concrete backer board? As for the drain, I would honestly set a bucket under the P trap, take the trap off and empty it, then stuff a rag in the drain to keep out the sewer gas. Take the drain pipe off the bottom of the sink with a monkey wrench. Take both of of those to the hardware store and don't leave until you find something that fits the nut on the underside of the sink and the drain hole pipe.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 00:13
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:We've noticed that the pedestal sink in our downstairs bathroom is a bit wobbly. Give me a picture of the drain and i can tell you what you need to adapt it. 1.5 inch is standard now but you see alot of 1.25 pipe in older houses. You don't have to take anything off the wall it should be fairly easy to fix. Dont move the center of the ped sink because its most likely centered in the spot its in. If you move it left or right its going to look stupid for not being in the center of the room. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Mar 15, 2010 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:12
|
|
Should have posted this here in the first place:quote:So today was a pretty laid back DIY day, primed the bedroom and got ready to do some painting tomorrow.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:23
|
|
|
Smiling Jack posted:Should have posted this here in the first place: Could be a broken drain line or a broken water line. Pull the toilet and see what you find.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:27
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Could be a broken drain line or a broken water line. Pull the toilet and see what you find. Uh, what should I be looking for? Also, why would using water in the kitchen flood my bathroom? I was assuming a backed up / plugged up sewer main or something. Smiling Jack fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 15, 2010 |
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:30
|
|
|
Smiling Jack posted:Uh, what should I be looking for?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:34
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:See if you can tell where the water is coming from The water comes up from under the toilet when I run the shower or kitchen sink for an extended period of time. The water does not appear if I just flush the toilet. When I "pull the toilet", should I then deliberately attempt to re-flood the bathroom? What would I be looking for to diagnose the problem?
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:41
|
|
|
I mean pull the toilet and see if the water is coming out of the drain, or around the drain. Or some other spot near the toilet. I cant tell you whats the problem with out knowing where the water is exactly coming from.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 04:49
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I mean pull the toilet and see if the water is coming out of the drain, or around the drain. Or some other spot near the toilet. I cant tell you whats the problem with out knowing where the water is exactly coming from. Got it. Tomorrow: I flood my bathroom.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 05:00
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Unless you got some serious clearance underneath that sink, you'll have to take that bowl off of the wall to be able to drill pilot holes to attach the bolts. If it wasn't attached, then it's possible that they didn't line the up the sink to the studs properly, in which case you may need to move the sink left or right to attach it properly. Is that wall drywall, plaster or tile with concrete backer board? I had the sink in pieces on my bathroom floor already  . The solution ended up being very simple. The guy at lowes gave me a washer that you use with a 1-1/2" slipnut to lock on to a 1-1/4" pipe.The whole thing went back together beautifully. The sink bowl is now attached with the brace that holds it up along the back, as well as two new 1/2" bolts. Unfortunately, there are no studs where the bolt holes are, so I had to use some very large sheet rock anchors. Also, a little more precariously, the pedestal itself is not bolted to the floor. I am a little weary about drilling into the tile floor, as I really won't know what to do if I crack it! I just need the proper type of drill bit, eh? And then, what type of bolt/screws do I use? Would it need an anchor? edit: Also, this diagram is quite nice: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/enlarge/0,,221693_20075146,00.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 15:16
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:I had the sink in pieces on my bathroom floor already I'd just silicon the base to the floor. IT will hold it perfectly fine and if you do a good job no one will notice.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 15:37
|
|
|
Kaluza-Klein posted:I just need the proper type of drill bit, eh? And then, what type of bolt/screws do I use? Would it need an anchor? To drill into tile, you need (big surprise) a tile bit! You can also use a masonry bit, but that's a little harder to use since you need to worry about the tip walking off the point you set it on. You can use a center punch and a light tap with a hammer to make a 'dimple' to keep the bit from walking, but most people are leery about taking a hammer and basically a big nail to their tile... What is the tile stuck to, the subfloor or a thin cement layer? What is the subfloor in that bathroom made of? Does your home have a slab foundation, or is that a basement bathroom? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Mar 15, 2010 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 17:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 07:24 |
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I mean pull the toilet and see if the water is coming out of the drain, or around the drain. Or some other spot near the toilet. I cant tell you whats the problem with out knowing where the water is exactly coming from. Turned out to be clogged up. Had it roto-rootered.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2010 17:54
|
|