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Fiannaiocht posted:Hey I'm going to shoot some expired film next weekend and I was wondering how much degraded the images would be. There are about a fifty rolls of "Seattle FilmWorks 35mm Professional Film" which have a useby date to aug '98. It doesn't sound like there's any special process to develop these but I have no idea if anyone's ever heard of this film company or be able to develop it. Those fuckers. My dad exclusively shot Seattle FilmWorks stuff for years, including most of our hiking trips together and a bunch of his business trips. Prints sucked, negatives sucked.
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Mar 5, 2010 07:07
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is go
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Jahoodie posted:On that note, I've never looked into Target. Do they have something similar to Walmart, where their mail out service goes straight to a Fuji lab and is cheap? Target's definitely complete mailout, dunno where it goes though. Cheapest mailout I've used is Sam's Club. Depending on how much you shoot, you could overtake the membership fee ($35/yr). Hell, you could just shop there too as a bonus.
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Mar 5, 2010 08:07
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theflyingexecutive posted:Target's definitely complete mailout, dunno where it goes though. Cheapest mailout I've used is Sam's Club. Depending on how much you shoot, you could overtake the membership fee ($35/yr). Hell, you could just shop there too as a bonus. You're not talking about C-41 are you? I'm pretty positive mine does that in-store...
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Mar 5, 2010 10:41
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The Targets near me all do C41 in-store, and I wasn't aware of any mail-out options. They charge $1 for process only. edit: I've actually found myself going to Walgreens lately instead. Its a little more expensive (like $2 or so) but the store is right down the street and they'll process it while I wait. The guys who work in the photo department at this store also seem to have an interest in film photography, which is weird but cool. FasterThanLight fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 12:50
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Ah, I didn't know different Targets did different things.
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Mar 5, 2010 15:56
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I just bought a box of Fuji Neopan 400 on a whim after seeing the price. Does anybody know how it compares to HP5 and Tri-X?
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Mar 5, 2010 23:50
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It doesn't. Neopan 400 is much finer grained and smoother tonally, also not generally used for push-processing.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:09
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Rednik posted:I just bought a box of Fuji Neopan 400 on a whim after seeing the price. Does anybody know how it compares to HP5 and Tri-X? Neopan is a tabular grained film like TMax or Delta. Nice and sharp with fine grain, but it doesn't have the contrast range that conventional films do. Still, it's really close.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:36
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How much do you guys usually pay to get scans of slides and developing slide film?
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Mar 6, 2010 04:35
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I knew there was a reason I keep all my empty film canisters. They make awesome shot glasses.
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Mar 6, 2010 12:46
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I got a Zorki 6. It's pretty wicked. It's like a Leica except with most of the annoying things like bottom loading and film cutting removed. The downside is that the shutter only goes down to 1/30 and then bulb, so that kind of limits low light options somewhat.
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Mar 6, 2010 17:54
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:I knew there was a reason I keep all my empty film canisters. They make awesome shot glasses. I love the smell of film but I don't think I'd like the taste of it in booze... still, that's still pretty awesome.
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Mar 6, 2010 18:35
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HPL posted:I got a Zorki 6. It's pretty wicked. It's like a Leica except with most of the annoying things like bottom loading and film cutting removed. The downside is that the shutter only goes down to 1/30 and then bulb, so that kind of limits low light options somewhat. When I studied abroad in Russia my host family gave me a Zorki 6 (the anglicized export model) with a leather case and an actually functioning Jupiter 3 50mm f1.5. It's a great camera, and built like a tank, too. The one beef I have with it is that the shutter sticks at 1/30 and bulb and that the flash sync doesn't seem to work. You might want to check how they work on yours. I heard the slow speeds on Russian cameras are atrocious. Other than those issues I intend to fix sometime when I'm in NYC, I've been really happy with it. Example shot:  Click here for the full 1024x669 image.
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Mar 6, 2010 21:01
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Rednik posted:When I studied abroad in Russia my host family gave me a Zorki 6 (the anglicized export model) with a leather case and an actually functioning Jupiter 3 50mm f1.5. It's a great camera, and built like a tank, too. The one beef I have with it is that the shutter sticks at 1/30 and bulb and that the flash sync doesn't seem to work. You might want to check how they work on yours. I heard the slow speeds on Russian cameras are atrocious. Other than those issues I intend to fix sometime when I'm in NYC, I've been really happy with it. An f/1.5? That's weird as hell, isn't it?
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Mar 6, 2010 22:01
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:An f/1.5? That's weird as hell, isn't it? Not any weirder than the piles of other lenses that have a maximum aperture that doesn't correspond to a full stop. I've got/seen maximum apertures of 0.95, 1.2, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.1, 2.3, 2.9...it's just whatever the lens designer decided upon.
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Mar 6, 2010 22:08
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Took the Zorki 6 and my Moskva 5 out to the mountains and forests today, wandering around like some version of Oscar Barnack gone horribly wrong. The Zorki is a good camera, but one annoying thing is that after a while the film advance lever gets really stiff and I'm worried that sooner or later I'm going to break something if I keep on cranking it. The rangefinder is bright and clear, though the yellow circle could stand to be a bit bigger. The viewfinder is small too and although the aspect ratio and field of view of the Moskva and the Zorki are similar, the Moskva seemed to be much more generous in framing. Overall the camera has a good feel to it. Very solid, somewhat weighty and it fits nicely in the hand. The Jupiter-8 lens (50mm f/2) I'm using with it has a smooth focusing action, a little stiffer than I might like, but hardly horrible. A shoe-mounted light meter like the Voigtlaender VC II would be a solid addition if it didn't cost so much. I'll be able to comment further once I develop and scan the rolls of film I shot.
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Mar 7, 2010 00:58
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:An f/1.5? That's weird as hell, isn't it? Not at all, my modern Nokton 50 is a 1.5, and pre-war sonnars were made in 1.5 as well as quite a few others.
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Mar 7, 2010 01:29
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:An f/1.5? That's weird as hell, isn't it? There are actually a couple of different 50mm f/1.5 lenses for rangefinders, seems like most of the major manufacturers made one. Canon, Nikon (I think), Zeiss, Russia, Cosina are the ones that come to mind. HPL posted:Took the Zorki 6 and my Moskva 5 out to the mountains and forests today, wandering around like some version of Oscar Barnack gone horribly wrong. The Zorki is a good camera, but one annoying thing is that after a while the film advance lever gets really stiff and I'm worried that sooner or later I'm going to break something if I keep on cranking it. The rangefinder is bright and clear, though the yellow circle could stand to be a bit bigger. The viewfinder is small too and although the aspect ratio and field of view of the Moskva and the Zorki are similar, the Moskva seemed to be much more generous in framing. The patch on my Zorki 4 is decent but not amazing, the contrast pops a lot more with a piece of developed C-41 film taped over the viewfinder like so:  I got a FED-2 in the mail with the collapsible Industar-22, but the aperture on the lens was busted. Sending it back since it's a US seller, may try getting one from Ukraine instead. I was expecting the camera itself to be smaller than it was :-\
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Mar 7, 2010 01:40
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HPL posted:Took the Zorki 6 and my Moskva 5 out to the mountains and forests today, wandering around like some version of Oscar Barnack gone horribly wrong. The Zorki is a good camera, but one annoying thing is that after a while the film advance lever gets really stiff and I'm worried that sooner or later I'm going to break something if I keep on cranking it. The rangefinder is bright and clear, though the yellow circle could stand to be a bit bigger. The viewfinder is small too and although the aspect ratio and field of view of the Moskva and the Zorki are similar, the Moskva seemed to be much more generous in framing. Would anyone happen to know if there's a reasonably priced shoe-mounted light meter for sale anywhere? It seems like something that should be cheap to make. Also, the f/1.5 isn't nearly as weird as the fact that the lens lacks click-stops for the various apertures.
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Mar 7, 2010 03:02
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I actually loved that about my old Jupiter-8, being able to twist the ring super-slowly and getting it exactly where I wanted it.
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Mar 7, 2010 03:20
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Would anyone know how to check how many shutter actuations a N80 would have? I just wanted to make sure it isn't on it's last legs since my gf's camera is starting to go and it's making me paranoid.
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Mar 7, 2010 03:28
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Rednik posted:Would anyone happen to know if there's a reasonably priced shoe-mounted light meter for sale anywhere? It seems like something that should be cheap to make. You would think so, but I'm pretty sure there isn't. I was pretty set on getting a VC II and drat the cost, but now that I think about it I'd rather have a better meter for less money and just deal with taking it out of a pocket/backpack when the light changes (or getting better at doing mental arithmetic).
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Mar 7, 2010 05:33
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The film advance lever on my Zorki was getting hard to turn so I took the camera apart and did a bit of CLA. After all that all I'll say is that now I know why the NKVD decided to manufacture FEDs at their labour camps.
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Mar 7, 2010 22:39
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Fiannaiocht posted:Would anyone know how to check how many shutter actuations a N80 would have? I just wanted to make sure it isn't on it's last legs since my gf's camera is starting to go and it's making me paranoid. I broke down early on and got the Sekonic here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00007E89...H2T0BPXNAZ0MYX& The good news is that I don't really care about built-in light meters, and the way I amass cameras over the years this is actually paying for itself 
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Mar 8, 2010 00:23
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Edit: hybr1d posted:Sekonic L-358  and I'm tired of being afraid of losing/dropping a $260 meter while I'm out and about with my $10 film cameras.Original post: My dad's an ebay fiend and has a small cache of film cameras he's currently listing, and if it's kosher I can link people to auctions he's putting up so you can bid knowing they've been goon inspected and approved. Anyway, he's got a Pentax K1000 that the meter seems to just be on all the time, no matter what, with no way to turn it off. Is this normal? And a Minolta X-700 that the meter works and everything but even with a fresh set of batteries it refuses to release the shutter. It sure likes beeping at me but won't do much else. Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Mar 8, 2010 |
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Mar 8, 2010 04:27
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Rontalvos posted:Edit:
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Mar 8, 2010 05:05
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Rontalvos posted:Edit: My meter comes out to get the initial reading, then promptly goes back in a pocket or bag. Where are you finding $10 cameras?  I don't use anywhere near all of the settings, but it's been a great meter for me. As for the K1000, I don't have mine at the ready, but IIRC the metering is through the lens, right? If so, that's where the lens cap comes in handy, and will effectively turn off the meter. I seem to remember another model with a small plastic plug that covered the meter, but I don't think that's the K1000.
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Mar 8, 2010 06:20
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hybr1d posted:My meter comes out to get the initial reading, then promptly goes back in a pocket or bag. Where are you finding $10 cameras? I am trying to pair down the camera equipment I take out with me because my girlfriend makes fun of me for dragging a whole camera store around and never using 3/4ths of it. The worst part is she's right. I went to SF with her in december and brought 4 cameras, each time we left for the day it was an agonizing choice and I felt retarded. Tiny light meter, rangefinder for medium format, soon to be an R-strap for my SLR, I am trying to simplify! And as for $10 cameras, garage sales are goldmines. You have to get there super early though, the ebay sellers are sometimes out before dawn to buy up all the cheap gear and hock it on the internet. My father included, he buys for resale and I buy for myself haha.
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Mar 8, 2010 10:10
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Why you'd need more than 2 cameras/backs is foreign to me. 100 in one, 800 in the other, gogogo. Of course, my 3rd film camera is currently on its way to me now. gently caress you, gear lust.
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Mar 8, 2010 10:44
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Rontalvos posted:Anyway, he's got a Pentax K1000 that the meter seems to just be on all the time, no matter what, with no way to turn it off. Is this normal? Lens cap. I use a K1000 as my main camera... leaving the lens cap off will drain the battery, keep it on whenever the camera is sitting around.
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Mar 8, 2010 11:33
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My jupiter-8 arrived today. I wish I'd done more research about the different versions of it - mine is a late ('92) black one, and you can't change the aperture without also moving the focus ring. Also, from min focus to infinity, the focus ring turns almost 200degrees - I don't know how this compares to other rangefinder lenses but it seems like a lot!
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Mar 8, 2010 11:52
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evil_bunnY posted:Why you'd need more than 2 cameras/backs is foreign to me. 100 in one, 800 in the other, gogogo. I am getting ready to go on a light hiking vacation with my family in a month, and I am- kid you not- seriously planning on taking 3 cameras. I'll have my Nikon D80 for my digital stuff, my Bronica for trail shots (probably the bulk of my photos), and my Crown Graphic for landscapes. The good news is that each hike will be short, at 2-3 miles total for each day. Luckily I found some tricks, like getting a larger hiking backpack and putting a camera bag inside it. It should be interesting, but I only have 1 day back to process all my film before I have to get back on the road traveling for work. Oh, and the Sekonic will be in the bag too.
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Mar 8, 2010 17:47
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hybr1d posted:I am getting ready to go on a light hiking vacation with my family in a month, and I am- kid you not- seriously planning on taking 3 cameras. I'll have my Nikon D80 for my digital stuff, my Bronica for trail shots (probably the bulk of my photos), and my Crown Graphic for landscapes. Which lens are you using for the Crown Graphic? If you're using something in the ~150mm range, you may want to look at a folding 6x9 medium format camera. Much smaller, lighter and faster to set up plus 120 roll film is a lot more compact than 4x5 film holders. It's roughly the same size as 2x3 sheet film, so the quality is pretty good. Another option would be a Century Graphic with Graphic 23 roll back. And you're not that crazy. I went to a relatively remote island for a week last year and took two Pentax 35mm bodies and a Mamiya 645 Pro with a few lenses for both plus an Olympus Stylus Epic. It all fit in a Kata 3N1-20, but there wasn't room for anything else in there. On a previous road trip with less walking and hiking, I took a Canon A2E, a Pentax ME Super, a Rolleiflex and a Contax T2 and had a Pentax MX and another A2E body in the car as backup. If I were you, I'd leave the digital at home and just take a 35mm camera and the Bronica. Either that or just the digital and the Bronica.
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Mar 8, 2010 18:00
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I'm not brave enough to leave the DSLR at home just yet- the 50mm is just so damned good at capturing stuff, although I am already at the point where it will not have the dual battery grip or the kit lens. I honestly don't know off hand what lens the CG has on it, but I can say it's too late for new purchases in time for the vacation. Oh, and the DSLR will be used by everyone in the family, aside from the wife who I am trying to find budget to get her a micro 4/3. Here's the plan: Snapshot Camera: Nikon D80 50mm Lens Single battery, no filter, etc. Probably set on Aperture Priority for family Mixed Use Camera Bronica ETRSi 40mm Lens Possible Cokin adapter ring (for my existing GND/ND filters) 2 Backs (May expand to 4) for Ilford 3200, 100, and Kodak 400. Grip, waistlevel viewfinder, bubble level Landscape Camera Crown Graphic ?? Lens 6 double-sided backs for ISO 25, 100 and 400(?) B&W and color films (This represents a big investment, as my local pro shop charges ~$10 a sheet for color development. I do my own 4x5 B&W via the 'taco method'. Other Gear Magnesium Bogen Head, Bogen Tripod. Sekonic Light Meter 3 Foot shutter release *Looking for timed shutter release for family MF/LF pics I will be picking up the backpack today, and will start adding the gear/weight to my current hikes. I would be happy to do a trip report if anyone is interested, I am giving my oldest son my K1000 for the trip and a digital P&S to my youngest son. I really could use some suggestions on mechanical release timers for the Bronica and Crown Graphic.
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Mar 8, 2010 18:21
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evil_bunnY posted:Why you'd need more than 2 cameras/backs is foreign to me. 100 in one, 800 in the other, gogogo. Yeah, I'm sort of in that same school of thought. I'm a gun nut/TFR poster with a safe full of shootin irons, but when it comes to photo equipment I'm a total minimalist. 1 each MF camera in 645 and 6x6, and 2 35mm bodies, the second one of which is never used. I haven't bought a new camera in 3 years, and it was 2 years before that that I bought another. I'd rather stick with something that works simply and put money into film and darkroom consumables.
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Mar 8, 2010 22:28
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hybr1d posted:Landscape Camera Ouch. The one closest to me only charges $2.75/sheet, but it's like a half hour drive each way. Haven't tried them out yet (loaded my first 4x5 today, but it's B&W) but I imagine they'll be getting my business pretty soon. How are you supposed to take sheet film in to be developed, anyways? I don't have any spare boxes laying around yet. If you don't mind sticking with one film, look in to getting Grafmatics. They hold 6 shots but are only about 1.75 film holders thick. A little pricey at around $80/each, but pretty convenient. I have two already and would like to pick up a couple more. Also you can double the bang for your buck with film on those landscapes by cutting a darkslide in half length-wise, use it to make a pair of 2x5 panoramics on each sheet  A lot of the reason I still carry my DSLR around is because it doubles as a meter for my older cameras. Sometimes the Bessa fills the same role, but things did feel a tad redundant this weekend with my DSLR and RF kit.
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Mar 8, 2010 23:58
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Ouch. The one closest to me only charges $2.75/sheet, but it's like a half hour drive each way. Haven't tried them out yet (loaded my first 4x5 today, but it's B&W) but I imagine they'll be getting my business pretty soon. How are you supposed to take sheet film in to be developed, anyways? I don't have any spare boxes laying around yet. You just take the box in. Make sure they are in the bag AND the box, don't ask why  I'd seriously recommend the 'taco method' after you see the bill for your first batch. All you need are some hair bands without the metal part (my wife found me some at a 99 cent store) and a double-120 stainless tank. The most I have done in a tank is 3, but people say you can do 4 no problem.I'll be doing all the B&W myself, but the color I will only be using on the "Oh my god what a shot" kind of circumstances.
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Mar 9, 2010 00:23
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hybr1d posted:You just take the box in. Make sure they are in the bag AND the box, don't ask why I really don't have any boxes I can spare yet... I wonder if they'd crucify me for bringing them in still loaded in the holders. I've actually read about using sections of PVC pipe for the taco method, which seems easier. Regardless, Ace Hardware was closed and I had to have my results tonight so I just freeballed it in trays. Goddamn did I botch it. My nails aren't talons but I should have trimmed them first, the emulsion has gouges all over. I realized at the end after flipping on the lights that I had actually poured D-76 instead of fixer into the last tray  Need to pay more attention to the labels on my gallon jugs. Not the end of the world since these were just random test shots, but still pretty annoying. I went ahead and re-fixed it with no apparent fogging or anything, but spending 20 minutes in pitch blackness wondering if I set the timer right really isn't much fun. Think I'm going to suck it up and buy a Combi-plan, would be better on the road anyhow. Was at least pleasantly surprised how easy it is to load 4x5 holders. I also used my hat as a shutter to take a shot with my Aero Ektar (shutter speed was about a half second; thanks for the tip, 19th century  ); holy poo poo I cannot wait to get a camera with a working focal plane shutter, that thing is awesome. Very quick and dirty scan with laptop LCD as a light table, 5D, and PS crop/inversion: 
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Mar 9, 2010 04:42
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I really don't have any boxes I can spare yet... I wonder if they'd crucify me for bringing them in still loaded in the holders. Very nice. I ended up blowing my camera fund on a V700 scanner, and I have to say I have been very pleased with some of my early photos. I tried some Polaroid/Fuji film with some Polaroid backs, but the film is far easier and since I'm not doing pro work I'm ok with not seeing the actual shot until I get home.
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Mar 9, 2010 04:55
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evil_bunnY posted:Why you'd need more than 2 cameras/backs is foreign to me. 100 in one, 800 in the other, gogogo. Canon 40D, Bronica S2A, Canon AE-1, fuji point and shoot. Digital, medium format, and 35mm, makes sense to me. My name is Rontalvos and I'm a cameraholic. (this isn't even all my bodies, let alone lenses) 
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Mar 9, 2010 10:16
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