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I'd like to say, I hate Poly. Did 3 coats with sanding in between, brought it in from the garage, clear as day brush strokes and a thicker spot near the bottom of one of my doors. Sigh.
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Mar 9, 2010 17:26
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FidgetyRat posted:I'm hoping that a mixture of having all sides of the board primed and painted will prevent too much moisture exchange. Here I go again tooting the merits of shellac again, but I would recommend it as an undercoat if you are concerned about cupping. It is one of the best finishes for blocking water vapor exchange. You mentioned that you live in a mild climate though, so that might be overkill. You can get pick up a can or spray bottle of Zinsser shellac at any hardware store for under $10. It might not make any difference at all, but for the price, I'd do it just to be more on the "safe" side than the "sorry" side. FidgetyRat posted:I have the entire front of the board that can be nailed down to the stud below and 3 4" sections in the back. I think you meant to say "screwed down"  FidgetyRat posted:I believe the boards are quarter sawn if the image I found is accurate. It had a bit of a U shape from the store to begin with. This isn't real pretty, but I made up a quick image. If you look at the end grain of the board and it looks like the top image, then it is quartersawn. If it looks like the middle image, then it is a regular board, which is fine. If it looks like the bottom image, it is firewood.
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Mar 9, 2010 18:02
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Don't people often use the cores for lathing? I mean, in most projects, yeah firewood, but that's not always true...one man's trash, and all that.
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Mar 9, 2010 18:20
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MarshallX posted:I'd like to say, I hate Poly. Yeah but I always end up using it. I was at a woodworking convention and one of the classes was on finishing. The instructor said that we should put our projects under cardboard pieces to protect from dust particles ruining it. That only sometimes works but for applying the poly I use a sponge brush and then throw it away. My retard brother likes to rinse it out in the sink and reuse.
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Mar 9, 2010 18:59
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McBeth posted:Yeah but I always end up using it. I was at a woodworking convention and one of the classes was on finishing. The instructor said that we should put our projects under cardboard pieces to protect from dust particles ruining it. That only sometimes works but for applying the poly I use a sponge brush and then throw it away. My retard brother likes to rinse it out in the sink and reuse. My problem was I couldn't fully see the coat I was putting on, and once I was under better light I found a spot where I had left the Poly very thick. Not sure what to do other than sand it down.
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Mar 9, 2010 19:03
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Bad Munki posted:Don't people often use the cores for lathing? I mean, in most projects, yeah firewood, but that's not always true...one man's trash, and all that. I haven't done any work on a lathe since a brief semester in high school, so I can't say. I just made that firewood image up in reference to his 9.5" wide shelf. If you try to make a wide shelf out of a board like that it would be an exercise in long term regret.
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Mar 9, 2010 19:17
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Indubitably. New question: in building my poker table, I'm going to have a 5" wide racetrack around the outside of the playing field, inside the ring of the wrist pad. This racetrack will be built of 8 chip trench segments, and 8 cupholder pieces. My concern is that while the table itself is quite solid and firm, it's not completely immune to flexing. If I glue the edges of these segments together, I'm worried they'll crack apart. How best to deal with this? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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Mar 9, 2010 19:21
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MarshallX posted:I'd like to say, I hate Poly. This is more an indictment of your shop lighting than poly (although I do love to hate poly). Always use heavy cross lighting when finishing, it brings out the worst in surface quality. Have a design professor do that to your model just once during a crit and it will be your finish checking technique for life.
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Mar 9, 2010 20:11
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SkunkDuster posted:
Wrong, the last one is 2/3 quartersawn and 1/3 firewood. Otherwise I would rarely get clear SYP boards from hardware stores. I would also argue that the second board is rift sawn, but I am picking nits and no one really classifies anything except for oak as "rift" Flatsawn would look more like the last board, but imagine it further out so you ended up with long arcs instead of the heart of the tree. 0-30 degrees: flatsawn, 30-60 degrees: riftsawn, 60-90 degrees: quartersawn. This is what I learned in my Furniture Manfuacturing courses, but we were talking about oak at the time, many other woods will draw the cutoff at 45 and classify only as flat or quarter. Depends on the grader, etc etc. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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Mar 9, 2010 20:13
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MarshallX posted:Not sure what to do other than sand it down. Or use a scraper.
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Mar 9, 2010 23:37
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I want to do this to a board: But I suck dick with a chisel and those grooves need to be glue-surface quality. Thoughts? Like, a router bit for cutting V's just so? It'd need to cut the groove on the end of the bit rather than the side, though, because of the placement on the board. [edit] Nevermind, I r good at teh google. Found the bits, they're pretty common, and are exactly what I need. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Mar 10, 2010 |
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Mar 10, 2010 20:55
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You could also use a table saw to make those cuts by setting it to a 45 degree angle and making 2 cuts. It'll be a little easier to do with the router, however.
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Mar 10, 2010 21:36
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I have to imagine it'd be cleaner by router, too. There's going to be wood glued into those grooves, I guess like an inlay. Then it'll be planed down and eventually routed along another axis so that the triangle shape will show through the curve of a groove. I explained that horribly, but long story short it's important it fits very nicely.
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Mar 10, 2010 22:00
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I was starting to wonder how you included the words "V groove bit" without finding your answer.
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Mar 11, 2010 00:44
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Been working on an enclosure for a nixie tube clock. I'm pretty happy with the results. Especially doing it all free hand with a drill press and not a mill 
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Mar 11, 2010 15:23
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That will be the most kick rear end nixie tube clock ever. I love combining electronics and wood, the way they used to do back in the day.
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Mar 11, 2010 15:56
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I've got some boards I made from joining some other boards (not really sure it counts as a laminate because it's all edge joined.) Anyhow, now I want to plane these down to smooth out the joins and get the final thickness. I want to completely avoid snipe, so I'm considering some sort of sled for the boards to ride on which will provide some sacrificial wood to be planed even beyond the end of the important piece. Is something like this a patently bad idea? Is there a better way? Here's a drawing for clarity:
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Mar 11, 2010 19:33
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You'll have to make th piece between the rails out of a wide board. I'm not sure a planer would be all that easy going cross grained. I think you would end up with an exploded piece. Can you get an outfeed support for a t-rex?
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Mar 11, 2010 19:43
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Yeah, it's a DW735, they make tables I could buy, or I could build them. I just hear that even with proper outfeed support, snipe happens, and I want to avoid it completely in this case. In the future, I'll do it the right way and just make my board longer than I need. Which has the added advantage of providing scraps for testing different finishes.
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Mar 11, 2010 19:49
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poxin posted:Been working on an enclosure for a nixie tube clock. I'm pretty happy with the results. Especially doing it all free hand with a drill press and not a mill holy poo poo that is loving sexy, what wood is that?
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Mar 11, 2010 23:45
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teknicolor posted:holy poo poo that is loving sexy, what wood is that? You took the words right out of my mouth. That is loving beautiful. Barn Owl posted:You'll have to make th piece between the rails out of a wide board. I'm not sure a planer would be all that easy going cross grained. I think you would end up with an exploded piece. Can you get an outfeed support for a t-rex? Instead of making it wider to match the grain direction, you could also just make it shorter so it doesn't contact the planer blades at all. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 04:21
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Just a heads up, Menards is advertising the Jorgenson CabinetMaster parallel bar clamps this week for $19.99/24", $24.99/36", and $29.99/48". They were last on sale in November and my local store didn't have any, but I got a raincheck for 4, 24" clamps. They're awesome and even though I really don't need more clamps, I'm probably going to pick up a couple 48" clamps if I can get to Menards this weekend.
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Mar 14, 2010 15:30
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LordOfThePants posted:I really don't need more clamps Such a situation is theoretical at best. In reality it cannot exist.
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Mar 14, 2010 16:52
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Okay, I guess I'm mostly done now. I'll still be replacing the motor with a 3 phase 3/4 horse. I already have the motor, I just have to get the cash for the VFD. Also I'm replacing that ratty belt with a red link belt. But otherwise, here it is.      
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Mar 14, 2010 23:50
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Beautiful work!
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Mar 15, 2010 00:24
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Hot poo poo that is spectacular. Great job.
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Mar 15, 2010 02:18
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ChaoticSeven posted:Rivets man, RIVETS (Seriously though, awesome work)
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Mar 15, 2010 05:24
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Sorry for the pathetic photo, and the pathetic workbench but I needed one and I have next to no woodworking experience. All the supplies cost me $33 at lowes and it makes a great bench for... working.  All the great info in this thread is making me ache for another project. What is next is the question.
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Mar 17, 2010 06:46
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Jeezus, what is up with the Red Bull addition?
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Mar 17, 2010 06:52
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wormil posted:Jeezus, what is up with the Red Bull addition? I work for Red Bull
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Mar 17, 2010 06:53
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You were just waiting to pounce on that question, weren't you? 
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Mar 17, 2010 06:55
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wormil posted:You were just waiting to pounce on that question, weren't you? Its definitely not as cool of a job as it sounds. Come and get a case if you are in VA.
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Mar 17, 2010 06:57
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Years ago, before Snapple was bought out, I was drinking one at work and some customer at the front counter shouts back at me, "You like Snapple?" "Yeah. I love Mango Mania." I say. He says, "Follow me." So I follow him into the parking lot and he gives me a whole case. Turns out he was a rep or something. The place is full of people giving me the  face when I came back in.Next time I go on a ride through Virginia... I'll stop by.
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Mar 17, 2010 07:08
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wormil posted:Years ago, before Snapple was bought out, I was drinking one at work and some customer at the front counter shouts back at me, "You like Snapple?" "Yeah. I love Mango Mania." I say. He says, "Follow me." So I follow him into the parking lot and he gives me a whole case. Turns out he was a rep or something. The place is full of people giving me the Nice! I have done that a few times myself, it always makes people super stoked. I am the staff photographer/Event Marketing Assistant. Yeah if you are in VA ever just send me a PM and Ill hook you up.
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Mar 17, 2010 07:11
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Finally completed the dart board cabinet for my brother as a housewarming gift. It turned out great. Got a little more amber out of my shellac for the accent pieces than I wanted but overall I'm pleased. My miters are rock solid  And a picture of my "shop"! 
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Mar 17, 2010 14:05
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MarshallX posted:Finally completed the dart board cabinet for my brother as a housewarming gift. It turned out great. Got a little more amber out of my shellac for the accent pieces than I wanted but overall I'm pleased. My miters are rock solid Giving stuff you make is always cool. People freak out the first few times and ask where you bought it. Too bad they take it for granted after that though  I wish my space looked that neat right now. GEMorris posted:Rivets man, RIVETS Screw drive screws, seriously. I spent hours trying to get those out without destroying the tags.
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Mar 18, 2010 17:57
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You spent hours trying to get screws out? 
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Mar 18, 2010 18:10
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Drive screws. They don't actually screw back out, and don't have a slot to use a screwdriver on if they did. Trying to file a slot doesn't work, they just split apart at the head. Filing the head off is almost impossible without nicking the tags up.
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Mar 18, 2010 21:27
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Man you did an awesome job, I'm very impressed and totally didn't expect that result.ChaoticSeven posted:Drive screws. They don't actually screw back out, and don't have a slot to use a screwdriver on if they did. Trying to file a slot doesn't work, they just split apart at the head. Filing the head off is almost impossible without nicking the tags up. Couldn't you have drilled it out?
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Mar 18, 2010 22:51
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ChaoticSeven posted:Drive screws. They don't actually screw back out, and don't have a slot to use a screwdriver on if they did. Trying to file a slot doesn't work, they just split apart at the head. Filing the head off is almost impossible without nicking the tags up. Ah, got it. Totally mis-read you there. And nth-ing the "amazing work" sentiment. That's drat impressive.
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Mar 19, 2010 00:07
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