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grover posted:Honestly, I'd be more worried about hitting wires- pipes will make a mess, but wires could kill you. Wires are supposed to be 1.25" back, too, but are in ALL the walls. I also did some math I had really been avoiding. These shelves are rated for 18-44 lbs depending on how they're mounted. I weighed a stack of books I had, and it worked out to 1.25 lbs per linear inch. So even if I just did one single row of books, without any laying on top or anything, I would want the shelf to hold 92 lbs, and that's with no safety margin. And since these will be mounted above my bed, a safety margin would be a good idea. This is looking way less possible. Any idea for wall shelves that can support Olsen twins?
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Mar 11, 2010 09:12
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i like nice words
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Yeah, use real wood with real supports and not particle board. Your load weights will mysteriously skyrocket.
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Mar 11, 2010 15:24
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You don't even need real wood. You need shelves with real support brackets. Those shelves you like use hidden supports without any real leverage support. Ikea has plenty of shelves with real support brackets that would do fine with 100lbs of weight.
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Mar 11, 2010 19:07
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I'm not seeing anything at Ikea rated anywhere near that amount. Is there anywhere else I should look for cheap finished-looking shelves (translation: not 2x4s nailed together)? Sadly nobody in my family is the DIY type at all. I didn't pick those shelves because they're pretty as much as because they're the right length -- I have about 76" to fill, and I'd like the shelf cover as much of that as possible. Appearance-wise, as long as they're white (or silver?), smooth, and plain, I'll be happy. I'm totally open to suggestions that don't involve a lumberyard or a lot of money! I really appreciate all this advice.
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Mar 11, 2010 19:39
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Shelf brackets. Google it. Or Amazon. Or walk into any hardware store. It's an l-shaped piece of metal with several holes for attaching to your wall and several holes for attaching to your shelf. Put a piece of wood on top of a few brackets mounted into studs. Screw the shelf to the brackets. Ta-da. It's very complicated but I think you can handle it.
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Mar 11, 2010 19:53
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grover posted:Can you post some photos of it? Most likely, it's warped boards, which would have to be replaced. This is the only pic I was able to get.  The back of the gate has 3 horizontal boards holding the slats on.
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Mar 12, 2010 18:29
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Not Memorable posted:Shelf brackets. Google it. Or Amazon. Or walk into any hardware store. It's an l-shaped piece of metal with several holes for attaching to your wall and several holes for attaching to your shelf. Put a piece of wood on top of a few brackets mounted into studs. Screw the shelf to the brackets. Ta-da. It's very complicated but I think you can handle it.
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Mar 12, 2010 18:40
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Anne Whateley posted:I'm not seeing anything at Ikea rated anywhere near that amount. Is there anywhere else I should look for cheap finished-looking shelves (translation: not 2x4s nailed together)? Sadly nobody in my family is the DIY type at all. http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm I don't know the average weight of books but you can simply weigh yours and divide into the length (6.5') to get the average. The considerations are the weight to support, thickness of shelf (probably .75") the span between supports and whether you have an edge strip (which will stiffen the shelf). edit: typo wormil fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 22:58
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My house has a set of built-in bookshelves with a bar area in the middle of it. We tore the sink out and converted the bar area to an entertainment center to hold our tv and associated swag. Under the bar is a cubby where a small fridge sits. Since I do not need the fridge anymore I want to install a series of shelves that will hold all my AV equipment. I installed a series of shelf brackets to hold the shelves with no problem. I have the measurements for the shelves now but I am a little hesitant to proceed. I want it to look nice and match the existing built-ins. I feel confident I can match the stain color without problem. My question comes though in the type of wood to use. Do I use plywood for this sort of project? Or do I use some combination of 2x12s or something similar? Also, if I use plywood, how can I dress up the exposed edge of the plywood?
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Mar 15, 2010 14:18
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Plywood should be fine. There is stuff called edge banding (edge banding tape) that is specifically made for dressing up the edges of plywood.
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Mar 15, 2010 15:17
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Actually Syano, plywood will probably splinter along the edges when cut across the grain. This won't be a problem for the middle layers since they'll be covered up, but the surfaces will show this splintering. Depending on the wood type and stain color, those splinters could become very apparent. My advice would be to use a table saw and blade with small, sharp teeth to make the long, straight cuts. Also, keep an eye on that edge banding. I'd do a test stain on that veneer and also on plywood scrap first to make sure they'll both match your existing cabinets once they're dry.
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Mar 15, 2010 17:14
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If you're already buying a sheet of plywood for something like that, you'll probably be looking for a decent piece of plywood. Meaning cost-wise, you're not THAT far away from an inexpensive sheet of hardwood, which would give you a lot less issues. A lot of big box lumberyards also have inexpensive pine and ash shelving in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
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Mar 15, 2010 19:26
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Not Memorable posted:If you're already buying a sheet of plywood for something like that, you'll probably be looking for a decent piece of plywood. Meaning cost-wise, you're not THAT far away from an inexpensive sheet of hardwood, which would give you a lot less issues. A lot of big box lumberyards also have inexpensive pine and ash shelving in all sorts of sizes and shapes. Maybe thats my problem. I have only been looking at Home Depot / Lowes. I suppose its time to look at a lumber yard.
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Mar 15, 2010 19:42
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Syano posted:Maybe thats my problem. I have only been looking at Home Depot / Lowes. I suppose its time to look at a lumber yard. Do you have a Menard's? I think they're only in the midwest. Menard's is the poo poo.
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Mar 15, 2010 21:30
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kid sinister posted:Actually Syano, plywood will probably splinter along the edges when cut across the grain. Masking tape on the cut line or scoring the cut line with a razor knife are the traditional ways of minimizing the splintering. (And of course a blade made for finishing cuts) Syano posted:I want it to look nice and match the existing built-ins. I feel confident I can match the stain color without problem. My question comes though in the type of wood to use. Do I use plywood for this sort of project? Or do I use some combination of 2x12s or something similar? Also, if I use plywood, how can I dress up the exposed edge of the plywood? If you really want to match the existing built-ins you should match the type of wood as real wood will accept more stain than plywood leaving the plywood lighter. Also, the edge banding will accept even less stain than plywood. You may need to attach a hardwood edge strip.
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Mar 15, 2010 22:05
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How often do I need to oil hardwood garden furniture? At the moment I'm giving it a yearly rub-down with linseed oil on the first mild day of the year; should I be giving it a once over in Autumn too? It's a table and chair set and is outside all year, but sometimes the chairs are covered with a tarp. They're in a fairly sheltered area on a deck against the house and I live in South East England so the weather isn't too bad.
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Mar 16, 2010 14:02
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wormil posted:Masking tape on the cut line or scoring the cut line with a razor knife are the traditional ways of minimizing the splintering. (And of course a blade made for finishing cuts) Heres a thought: Since the cross section of the shelves is going to be so small anyways, would MDF be any sort of option or will that just look like crap?
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Mar 16, 2010 14:03
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Syano posted:Heres a thought: Since the cross section of the shelves is going to be so small anyways, would MDF be any sort of option or will that just look like crap? This will collapse. If at any point you find yourself considering using MDF, ask yourself if you would willingly substitute damp digestive biscuits. If so, continue. If not, get some proper wood.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:34
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madlilnerd posted:How often do I need to oil hardwood garden furniture? At the moment I'm giving it a yearly rub-down with linseed oil on the first mild day of the year; should I be giving it a once over in Autumn too? Honestly, what will keep any outdoor furniture around longer is to keep off moisture. It's not just rot that you have to worry about. Wood can absorb water, so if it gets wet and a good freeze comes along, it can crack and splinter the wood, accelerating breakdown. You've got the right idea about using oil to preserve the wood. Use old-based stains for outdoor furniture before applying an outdoor wood sealant. You could also look into teak oil, that's a little longer lasting and doesn't become 'tacky' in warm weather. You don't want to stand up from those chairs and have them come up with you...
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Mar 16, 2010 23:08
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madlilnerd posted:How often do I need to oil hardwood garden furniture? As often as you want. Oil, especially linseed, is about as close to zero protection as you can get. Alone it is not an effective moisture barrier. It does offer some protection but the species of wood will make more difference. Syano posted:Heres a thought: Since the cross section of the shelves is going to be so small anyways, would MDF be any sort of option or will that just look like crap? How small is small? The sagulator I posted for Anne can answer your question. Assuming your Receiver is ~30lbs, MDF is 3/4" thick, and the distance between supports is 18-24"; MDF would be plenty strong enough. In theory you could span up to 30" but I think that's pushing it. Whether it looks like crap is up to you  .Maybe post a pic.
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Mar 17, 2010 00:22
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For some reason I've bought three old Smith & Corona mechanical typewriters and will likely end up restoring two of them and (unfortunately) using the third for parts. I need good advice on the following: -What should I use to clean the surface which won't strip the finish (which I think is lacquer)? -What will clean off rust spots but won't eat the finish on the metal? The metal is steel but it's plated with copper which formed a black copper (II) oxide. Both the copper and the black oxide are pretty thin. -What will clean off caked-on, dried, old grease that won't kill the finish? -What should I lubricate it with? I was thinking a real fine oil like sewing machine oil.
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Mar 17, 2010 05:15
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One of the rubber covers for a joystick on my PS3 controller has torn. I was thinking about removing the rubber completely, then dipping the joystick in Plasti Dip to make a new rubber coating for it. Is there any reason why this might be a terrible idea, or can anybody suggest a better idea?
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Mar 17, 2010 12:11
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I'd take apart the controller and remove that stick off of the joystick rod first. You don't want that stuff to gum up your joystick's inner mechanisms.
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Mar 17, 2010 13:18
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There is a glow in the dark spray paint smiley face on my wall, its been there for a good few months but we are about to move back and I would like my deposit back (I didn't spray if on btw) Any way of getting rid of it? Im not sure if I could paint it without it making part of the wall a different shade. Its painted textured wallpaper A LOVELY LAD fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Mar 17, 2010 |
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Mar 17, 2010 16:45
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A LOVELY LAD posted:There is a glow in the dark spray paint smiley face on my wall, its been there for a good few months but we are about to move back and I would like my deposit back (I didn't spray if on btw) Any way of getting rid of it? Im not sure if I could paint it without it making part of the wall a different shade. What is the wall covering under the spraypaint?
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Mar 17, 2010 19:14
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A LOVELY LAD posted:There is a glow in the dark spray paint smiley face on my wall, its been there for a good few months but we are about to move back and I would like my deposit back (I didn't spray if on btw) Any way of getting rid of it? Im not sure if I could paint it without it making part of the wall a different shade. If you can cut off a small section of the paint, or find a peeling corner, you can take the paint chip to home depot and they can color match it. You can by a quart of paint for under $10.
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Mar 17, 2010 19:55
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And just to add; if you're worried that the paint won't cover up the glow stuff, get some cover-up primer and do the whole wall with that first, then do the wall with the right-colored stuff.
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Mar 17, 2010 23:02
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Not Memorable posted:Do you have a Menard's? I think they're only in the midwest. Menard's is the poo poo. Fleet Farm supremacy. My local is usually 5 to 10 cents cheaper per board foot than Menard's. Anyplace is better than Lowe's though.
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Mar 18, 2010 02:07
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What is the ohmage, or whatever the term is for this resistor? It blew out in our dryer and the replacement board is $200, which is about $150 more than we paid for the dryer on craigslist. It's the big green one. We took the board to Fry's and Radioshack, but the colors didn't seem to make sense. .jpg) Click here for the full 600x800 image.
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Mar 22, 2010 23:21
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What are the colors? And maybe it's an inductor. Is it labeled "R" or some other letter?
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Mar 22, 2010 23:28
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Going from the picture, Black White Yellow Brown.
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Mar 22, 2010 23:35
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It's definitely labeled 'R'. here's a better pic http://www.bradshawfoto.com/images/circuit%20board%20-%20002.jpg
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Mar 22, 2010 23:36
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This thingy is pretty cool: http://www.samengstrom.com/nxl/3660/4_band_resistor_color_code_page.en.html However, I can't get it to accept that color scheme in either direction because of that black on the end, so I dunno maybe I'm stupid.
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Mar 23, 2010 00:59
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dunkman posted:What is the ohmage, or whatever the term is for this resistor? 90k ohm with a 2% tolerance (black = 0, white = 9, yellow= x10,000, red = 2 in % tolerance. you know which direction it goes because black, 0, isn't a valid tolerance.) eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 01:02
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eddiewalker posted:90k ohm with a 2% tolerance Yellow is Wait that still can't be right. The calculator thingy says 900k ohm would be white-black-yellow-red. Also, you can't start with black either, at least according to two or three different charts on the Web I'm looking at. OK here we go:  On close inspection I see red-yellow-white, with an unreadable burnt out tolerance band, and black for the quality band. That makes this a 24,000,000,000 ohm resistor with 0% failure rate. that... that can't be right! Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 01:08
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dreggory posted:It's definitely labeled 'R'. here's a better pic Are you sure that the resistor is bad? Have you tested it with a multimeter yet? Resistors get hot and can discolor the board like that and they'll behave perfectly fine. Also check the circuit traces on the underside of the board and look if they were burnt up or broken anywhere. If that's the case, you can bridge it by soldering a wire to the 2 solder pads on either side of that break. Is there a model number on that board? Google board's make and model along with "service manual" and you might get lucky and find the schematics for that board. In that case, you would just need to look it up in the drawings to find out its value.
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Mar 23, 2010 01:49
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Dragyn posted:Had the same problem. Kilz the walls. Twice at least. Buy crappy brushes/rollers for the kilz and just throw them away, that stuff does not come clean NEAR as easily as regular paint will. Latex Kilz anyway. As far as cleaning walls, you could be official and use TSP, but I've used white vinegar to good effect.
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Mar 31, 2010 17:27
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You know that crappy cardboard backer stuff that comes with cheap bookshelves? Does it have a name, and can I buy it in arbitrary sizes?
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Apr 1, 2010 18:15
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gregday posted:You know that crappy cardboard backer stuff that comes with cheap bookshelves? Does it have a name, and can I buy it in arbitrary sizes? You might be thinking of Hardboard.
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Apr 1, 2010 19:49
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This seems like a dumb question to me, but I don't know where else to ask so here goes. I just moved into a new place and have run into problems hanging things at exterior walls. In one case I was trying to put a nail in to hang a picture, and in another spot I was drilling to put up a magnetic knife strip. In both spots, I made it through the drywall, through a small void, and then hit some impenetrable barrier. It sounds like metal but I can't see it so I could be wrong. The house is a woodframe building from 1914. I have some renovation floorplans from the previous owner, and on my floor the walls are just listed as (E). On the ground level some of the walls are (E) but also have a 5/8" gyp board called out for fire rating, and on the level below me some of the exterior walls are called out with a Kraft vapor barrier. Do you think I'm hitting a vapor barrier? If so I obviously don't want to penetrate it, so is my only option to avoid doing anything on the exterior walls?
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Apr 2, 2010 19:58
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