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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Do plastic reels actually touch into the image plane? I've only ever seen reel marks show up along the sprocket holes of 36mm or along the black numbered edges of 120. Notably when I push ilford 3200 to 6400. 35mm has some smudging, 120 has a black line where it touches the plastic.
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Mar 14, 2010 06:20
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I wasn't sure whether to ask my question here or in the (short) alternative processes thread. I hope this is appropriate, since I'm asking about film photography. I recently built a pinhole camera and took a couple of rolls of exposures to check for light leaks, get a feel for the exposure times etc. The first roll was fine, but the second roll had an ugly artifact in several, but not all pictures. The color resembles a light leak, but otherwise it's kind of odd for a light leak. The artifact also appeared on an all-night exposure taken in very low light, but didn't appear on some frames shot in bright daylight. I'm going to try to make extra sure the camera is light tight anyway and see if that helps, but if anyone has other suggestions, I'm all ears. Please ignore the dog in the image, at the moment I'm glad I didn't put any more effort into these exposures than I did.
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Mar 15, 2010 20:32
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I'm looking at doing an extended photographic project for several weeks on my home town. I'm probably looking at buying a few propacks of colour print 120 - does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be cost-effective in quantity?
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Mar 15, 2010 22:38
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Mello Clello posted:I'm looking at doing an extended photographic project for several weeks on my home town. I'm probably looking at buying a few propacks of colour print 120 - does anyone have any suggestions as to what would be cost-effective in quantity? Portra 160NC/VC and Fuji 160S are pretty good. See if you can find some Fuji Reala 100 on closeout or something since it's discontinued but still an awesome film.
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Mar 15, 2010 22:58
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I've never messed with cross-processing, but I have a bunch of expired bulk-loaded 3M/Imation slide film that probably isn't worth paying E6 processing prices for. Went to a few different Walgreens, they all told me that they wouldn't take it because it was in an unlabeled canister, and it "could contaminate their chemicals". I asked one of them if I could go home, put it in a generic Kodak Gold canister, and bring it back...he said no (and I'm pretty sure he completely missed my point, which is that anybody could just do that and they would have no idea). Well, I just did. Quick research tells me that one roll of E6 in C41 chemicals can't hurt anything. Am I a jerk, or are they just dumb/paranoid/covering their asses from "YOU RUINED MY FILM" complaints? Results to follow!
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Mar 16, 2010 22:47
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FasterThanLight posted:Well, I just did. Quick research tells me that one roll of E6 in C41 chemicals can't hurt anything. Am I a jerk, or are they just dumb/paranoid/covering their asses from "YOU RUINED MY FILM" complaints? Probably the latter, but that's no guarantee they won't pitch a shitfit after they develop it. You could always cover your own rear end by saying you found it and didn't know what was on it, though. I've got a roll of Elitechrome 400 from like 4 months ago that still hasn't been developed because the local CVS insists my film will come out completely blank  Okay, sure.
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Mar 16, 2010 22:56
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The people running the machines at the Walgreens/CVS/whatever have a 95% of knowing absolutely nothing, they're just going by what their managers have told them, and are trying to cover their asses. Try to speak to someone above them, be nice about it, and bring documentation if you can.
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Mar 17, 2010 00:34
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few nights ago i went into a walgreens with a roll of superia 35mm i accidentally shot a stop underexposed. i talked my way into the back to see if i could set the machine to push a stop - but there were like no options on the noritsu developing machine. after a minute or two of fidgeting with the menus, the guy who let me back there changed his mind and kicked me out so i just dropped it off at my local lab. i'm guessing they just read the DX code and process to that for most of these drug store machines.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:05
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FasterThanLight posted:Well, I just did. Quick research tells me that one roll of E6 in C41 chemicals can't hurt anything. Am I a jerk, or are they just dumb/paranoid/covering their asses from "YOU RUINED MY FILM" complaints? What they're worried about, or at least what someone experienced would be worried about, is someone dropping off a roll of traditional black and white film. That will indeed gently caress up their chemistry (something about silver loading I think?) and will ruin any other film going through afterwards. And given that most people would be completely unaware that there are different ways of processing different kinds of film (and chromogenic B&W has not helped), they have a genuine concern. That said, I've dealt with people at the local minilab who weren't even aware that film came in different ASA ratings, so you could probably get a lost past them. Just be aware that if you reload an old Kodak GOLD or whatever, the machine will read the DX coding and process it as if it were the actual film inside, so loading ASA 50 reversal film into a GOLD 400 can might give you some very weird results. [e] like weirder than just cross-processing. It would be pushed or pulled or lord knows what else.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:27
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C-41 processing is all done for the same times and temps, DX coding is for your camera only.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:29
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Reichstag posted:C-41 processing is all done for the same times and temps, DX coding is for your camera only. Really? You can't push or pull C-41 film? The more you know.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:43
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orange lime posted:Really? You can't push or pull C-41 film? You can, but generally all C-41 film regardless of box speed is designed to be developed at the same parameters. They make the film fit the process instead of the other way around like it is with black and white film. That's why any store can buy a Noritsu autolab and crank out film as long as they stick to the tried and true formula.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:46
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You can push and pull it, but it's debatable how efficient it is versus adjusting during printing, give the extreme latitude of c41 films.
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Mar 17, 2010 01:47
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well i'll be damned. my photo lab said they'd push it a stop - i'll ask them how they do it when i pick it up tomorrow. VV yeah, I figure with how - but I guess I meant technically on their machine. sorry guidoanselmi fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Mar 17, 2010 |
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Mar 17, 2010 02:24
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It's basically the same thing as with black and white, just developing for longer/shorter times. You will get a speed boost obviously but also probably, depending on how far you push, really weird colour shifts. e: And more grainyness!
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Mar 17, 2010 02:50
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I picked up a Bronica GS-1 off eBay last week, which should be coming in soon, so I figured I would go on B&H to get a few different kinds of film to play around with. How does this look for a starter kit: Negative: 1x Portra 160VC 1x Portra 400VC 1x Ektar 100 1x HP5 400 1x Tri-X 400 Slide: 1x Velvia 100 1x Velvia 100F 1x Provia 100F Am I missing any forum favorites? Are there any redundancies in this selection (namely in the slide section, I'm not sure too what the difference is between the ones I have listed)?
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Mar 17, 2010 05:19
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DRP Solved! posted:A list of film
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Mar 17, 2010 07:32
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Get some Ilford Delta 400. It's like HP5 but smoother. Pushes well to 3200.
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Mar 17, 2010 07:59
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How much latitude are we talking about with C41? I was thinking of trying to shoot some hockey in colour, but I'd need to pretty much run at 1600 or higher to get 1/250 all night. If I can accomplish this without trying to find someone that will push film and instead take care of it when I scan, I'm suddenly very excited. Though I guess theoretically I could just get an actual 1600 C41 film.
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Mar 17, 2010 08:31
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DRP Solved! posted:Am I missing any forum favorites? Are there any redundancies in this selection (namely in the slide section, I'm not sure too what the difference is between the ones I have listed)? Provia 400x has a different feel than Provia 100F - shoots faster and is still incredibly fine grained. Just shoot Velvia 50 instead of 100. When shooting Velvia especially, make sure the DR of the shot isn't too wide.
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Mar 17, 2010 08:55
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Ok... I just finished developing my very first roll of film  . C41 in Rodinal, I figured if I'm gonna learn I may as well do it on cheap xpro'd C41. It was kind of dodgy from the beginning, I instantly hated my changing bag for being too small, then I had to re-do some things and forget some things, but the negatives that are currently drying in my bathroom actually look pretty good. Hopefully they'll be dry enough in a few hours to scan and post here 
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Mar 17, 2010 09:06
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Look at that, my respooled film didn't cause the minilab machines to explode. They took it with no questions (obviously), and didn't mention anything weird about the negatives they gave back. The Imation Chrome came out with a blueish-purple cast. Nothing super exciting, but it works:
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Mar 17, 2010 13:23
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^came out pretty nice  Martytoof posted:How much latitude are we talking about with C41? I was thinking of trying to shoot some hockey in colour, but I'd need to pretty much run at 1600 or higher to get 1/250 all night. If I can accomplish this without trying to find someone that will push film and instead take care of it when I scan, I'm suddenly very excited. You can overexpose +2EV, or underexpose +1 is the general rule of thumb I think.
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Mar 17, 2010 13:41
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FasterThanLight posted:Look at that, my respooled film didn't cause the minilab machines to explode. They took it with no questions (obviously), and didn't mention anything weird about the negatives they gave back. The Imation Chrome came out with a blueish-purple cast. Nothing super exciting, but it works:
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Mar 17, 2010 16:13
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I impulse purchased a Minox B camera and developing tank last week and have a film slitter on the way so I can reload my own instead of paying $15 a roll. I'm going to buy this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...4=263602_263622 just to get the cartridges since I didn't win the lot of 12 I was bidding on yesterday. Realistically, is the film likely to still be good?
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Mar 17, 2010 18:40
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trueblue posted:Ok... I just finished developing my very first roll of film C41 in Rodinal? You actually got usable negatives from it? I've always heard that color film in black and white chemistry comes out terribly, except for Kodachrome. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Mar 17, 2010 |
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Mar 17, 2010 19:03
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GWBBQ posted:I impulse purchased a Minox B camera and developing tank last week and have a film slitter on the way so I can reload my own instead of paying $15 a roll. I'm going to buy this No date, so there's no way to tell, but IIRC the official Minopan film is actually just Agfapan with a different label, and they still produce that. I've never had fog problems with mine. Give it a shot and see! Well done purchasing the B, it's an awesome camera and intrigues people to no end.
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Mar 17, 2010 20:40
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orange lime posted:No date, so there's no way to tell, but IIRC the official Minopan film is actually just Agfapan with a different label, and they still produce that. I've never had fog problems with mine. So should I just develop it using the C41 process?
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Mar 17, 2010 21:03
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GWBBQ posted:I've been keeping an eye out for a few months and was expecting to spend $200. I found one in great condition for $60 on ebay, then snagged a Minox developing tank with the newer style v-shaped grooves on KEH for $49.  No, you should develop it with the regular black and white process. I don't think you'll find any place that can/will take Minox film, let alone develop it in C-41.I use Rodinal on the slow films (I've got some Minopan 25 for instance) and D-76 on the 400.
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Mar 17, 2010 21:24
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:C41 in Rodinal? You actually got usable negatives from it? Now that I've scanned the negs, I'll show my steps and results here. In my opinion they're very usable with acceptable tone/contrast, the only downside is they're very grainy. The film is expired generic ISO 400 C41, and the developing was 20 mins in 1+50 Rodinal. step 1, tell the scanning software that it's scanning a positive so it doesn't do any of the unneeded cast correction for a neg scan  Click here for the full 589x900 image. step 2, do a straight invert in Photoshop  Click here for the full 589x900 image. step 3, Auto Tone/Auto Contrast in Photoshop. some of the images had a very nice look to them at this stage, like a very subtle cyanotype.  Click here for the full 589x900 image. step 4, convert to Greyscale  Click here for the full 589x900 image. step 5, some slight Curves and Unsharp Mask  Click here for the full 589x900 image.
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Mar 18, 2010 03:11
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trueblue posted:In my opinion they're very usable with acceptable tone/contrast, the only downside is they're very grainy.
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Mar 18, 2010 07:20
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orange lime posted:
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Mar 18, 2010 16:38
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GWBBQ posted:OK, I must have mixed up developing while searching ten year old websites for hours trying to find a developing tank and reels before I realized I hadn't checked KEH. The B&W process is standard so it'll be the same for the old Agfapan and new film like Kodak Tri-X, right? You can use the same chemicals for all b&w film, you just need to follow the various guidelines for proper development time. You'll find it all here: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
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Mar 18, 2010 16:44
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trueblue posted:Now that I've scanned the negs, I'll show my steps and results here. In my opinion they're very usable with acceptable tone/contrast, the only downside is they're very grainy. The film is expired generic ISO 400 C41, and the developing was 20 mins in 1+50 Rodinal. Huh, that's pretty rad. I just got about thirty free rolls of expired stuff like Kodak Gold and Fuji Super HQ, I think I'll give this a try. Beats paying for color development on all of 'em. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 18, 2010 |
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Mar 18, 2010 20:27
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What's the story with Arista EDU Ultra film? Freestyle has ISO400 in 120 for like two bucks and change, which is almost half of Tri-X 400's price. Is it just a low quality film for students that don't care, or what? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 00:39
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Arista EDU is Fomapan. It looks pretty decent, but its a pain to work with (at least 120, not so bad with 35mm) since its really thin and curls like crazy. For a B&W film, it really doesn't have much exposure latitude but its fine if you shoot at box speed. Definitely worth trying, but its not for everybody.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:35
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Thanks. I'm probably not going to bother then since I'd have to mail order it, and I'd rather just buy Delta 400 or Tri-X. And to be perfectly frank, I'd rather not deal with a pain in the rear end temperamental film Skipping topics for a second, what if anything do you guys do to keep the dust near your scanners under control? My room is fairly clean and well ventilated so it's not terribly dusty to begin with, but somehow every time I clean my scanner glass, by the time I hit SCAN it looks like my photo was excavated from an egyptian crypt. I don't really want to relocate my scanner to the bathroom to run the shower, so I'm not sure what would help. Perhaps a mobile humidifier running next to the scanner or something? Would that be of any help, or would it just be a bad idea to run one of those near electronics in the first place?
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Mar 19, 2010 06:50
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My F3 just got in, so it's question time, since a camera with a meter and a motor winder will do horrible things to my film intake. - Is there a guide somewhere listing which (unbranded/third party) films are which (first party/too rich for my blood). I found semi-cheap Tri-X here (I'm on the old continent). - Euro film nerds: Are there any recommended places to get cheaper film?
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Mar 19, 2010 09:55
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quote:Thanks. I'm probably not going to bother then since I'd have to mail order it, and I'd rather just buy Delta 400 or Tri-X. And to be perfectly frank, I'd rather not deal with a pain in the rear end temperamental film quote:Skipping topics for a second, what if anything do you guys do to keep the dust near your scanners under control? My room is fairly clean and well ventilated so it's not terribly dusty to begin with, but somehow every time I clean my scanner glass, by the time I hit SCAN it looks like my photo was excavated from an egyptian crypt. evil_bunnY posted:- Is there a guide somewhere listing which (unbranded/third party) films are which (first party/too rich for my blood). Since we're talking 35mm, you should consider bulk loading. Its quick and easy to do, and can save a lot of money - you'll likely get just under 20 36exp rolls out of a 100ft roll. Freestyle has a bunch of options for under $30, but shipping might kill you.
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Mar 19, 2010 13:46
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Martytoof posted:Skipping topics for a second, what if anything do you guys do to keep the dust near your scanners under control? My room is fairly clean and well ventilated so it's not terribly dusty to begin with, but somehow every time I clean my scanner glass, by the time I hit SCAN it looks like my photo was excavated from an egyptian crypt. I live in the dustiest apartment on earth, Pec-Pads and rocket blowers are my best friends.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:14
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