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A guy ran into my rear bumper (02 WRX) and it now should probably be replaced as its cracked but its not horrible. This netted me $555 to replace the bumper. It could also use the right front fender replaced. I figure this much would probably allow me to replace both of them with some used units (if I could ever find them in PSM). Alternatively I could buy a tuner and finally install the larger TMIC, turbo back and maybe the header I have sitting around. If I can get a used tuner I may even have enough left over to replace the previous owners BOV with a factory BPV. I'm leaning toward a Cobb AccessPort right now simply because thats what seems to be the most popular and I'm hoping the best supported. What should I do...make the car look decent or make the car faster? If faster, is that the best tuner suggestion? The car is daily driven. EDIT: Just a little update, I put Redline lightweight shockproof in about 3000 miles ago which gave me use of first gear again. First gear still works great. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Mar 16, 2010 |
# ? Mar 16, 2010 21:21 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 22:00 |
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Tatrakrad posted:I'm going to finally pull a trigger on a 2010 WRX sometime this week. I'll have a car for the first time in 3 years. I bought a base model 09 with the iPod hookup and added fog lights and an auto dimming mirror myself. iPod hookup works ok, although it doesn't charge my Touch. Wanted a little more light and the fog light kit wasn't that expensive. Auto dimming mirror is the same for all these cars. I think I bought it off NASIOC for 40$.
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# ? Mar 16, 2010 21:37 |
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I would steer clear of the Accessport. I had one when I didn't know about Open Source tuning. I ended up selling it once I got a custom tune from a local tuner. It's cool if you want to clear check engine lights, change maps on the fly, etc. But otherwise, it was a waste of money, in my opinion. Spend less money on a custom tune and get more power on a better and safer map.
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# ? Mar 16, 2010 22:10 |
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Given my planned mods I was planning on just using the 93 octane Cobb Stage 2. Very late edit: I dont want that to sound like I'm not open to the idea of an open source tuner. I'll look more into it but out of curiosity, how much did yours cost? Is there many available maps for them like there is for the AP? I really do not want to spend the extra $$ for a custom tune on top of a tuner. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Mar 17, 2010 |
# ? Mar 16, 2010 22:12 |
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I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5ts with rod knock. Its been sitting parked for a while as I get together the ambition to rebuild it. A wrecked 2005 Impreza 2.5rs just popped up locally. What kind of issues would I run into trying to put the motor from the 2005 into my 2002? Would everything just plug and play?
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# ? Mar 17, 2010 04:11 |
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Guy brought his 03TS into the dealership for service.local guy with a 2003ts posted:It needs: Interesting that the tech said it's the left cylinder bank and always is the left bank.
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# ? Mar 17, 2010 04:36 |
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Why the hell am I starting to feel the NA 2.5 is unreliable? Head gaskets, piston knock problems, spun bearings, what the hell it's not like it's an incredible high stress motor.
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# ? Mar 17, 2010 06:24 |
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Tremblay posted:I bought a base model 09 with the iPod hookup and added fog lights and an auto dimming mirror myself. iPod hookup works ok, although it doesn't charge my Touch. Wanted a little more light and the fog light kit wasn't that expensive. Auto dimming mirror is the same for all these cars. I think I bought it off NASIOC for 40$. Hmm...where did you get the fog light kit from? edit: Nevermind, found them here – https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1265 Looks good actually, might pick up a set soon. adnam fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Mar 17, 2010 |
# ? Mar 17, 2010 07:08 |
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8ender posted:I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5ts with rod knock. Its been sitting parked for a while as I get together the ambition to rebuild it. I believe 2005 is when they started with an electronic throttle, so see if you can just swap out the throttle body for your old one.
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# ? Mar 17, 2010 07:18 |
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Just Another XY posted:Hmm...where did you get the fog light kit from? Installing the new switch stalk in the steering column was a PITA, but otherwise its very easy. Wiring harness for the lights is already in in place.
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# ? Mar 17, 2010 16:03 |
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RealKyleH posted:Given my planned mods I was planning on just using the 93 octane Cobb Stage 2. Mine was $500, which included tuning on a dyno and on the road. It's a much more personalized service, where you can talk one on one with your tuner, instead of putting a generic map on your car. My car felt loads better on my custom tune, because it was personalized for my vehicle and mods. A lot of tuners can tune with the AP, using the StreeTuner/Protuner software, but why waste the money? You're essentially paying $700 for the AP first, then $250-350 extra for a custom map that can be uploaded to the AP. Why not bypass that and just get the custom map first? Of course, this is a big debate for some people. A lot of people want the AP for map flashing ability, the "valet" mode, etc. Personally, it wasn't worth it to me, and I'm sorry I bought it. I can see the appeal with the Stage 1/2 maps while you're building your mods, but if I could do it all over again, I would have just bought all the mods at once, put them in, and taken it to a tuner. My advice to you would be to see who the good tuners are in your area. What state are you in, if you don't mind me asking? c/n: You will not be happy with any of the Cobb OTS maps for very long and you'll want more power.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 01:14 |
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CharlesM posted:I believe 2005 is when they started with an electronic throttle, so see if you can just swap out the throttle body for your old one. can't just swap throttle bodies, but you can swap the whole intake manifold and wiring harness, which is what you would need to do for it to work right anyway. I think some of the n/a motors have avcs or avls or something these days so you would have to check on that.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 02:36 |
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the accessport does have a lot of nice features, but if all you want is a tune just go opensource. if you want things like flat foot shifting, launch control, map switching, and odb2 monitoring go with the AP. The Accessport also allows you to slightly adjust some of the fuel trims and the idle. Not that you need an AP to do all that stuff, but it makes it a lot easier. Many accessport tuners will also give you a deal when you buy the AP from them and get a tune. When they were $700 (price is $600 now), we would do two custom maps on the dyno and the AP for $1000, while a single map opensource was $475, and a regular AP tune was $400. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Mar 18, 2010 |
# ? Mar 18, 2010 02:40 |
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jamal posted:the accessport does have a lot of nice features, but if all you want is a tune just go opensource. I really cant afford to spend much more than the $555 I was given which is part of why the AP off the shelf tunes were appealing. Is there a way I can get the car basically tuned with those few mods for that much? Would I be able to download and use someone elses OpenSource tune give that they have similar or the same mods and somewhat similar climate? Or do people typically not share them. Getting a Dyno tuned is all well and great, gotten one before on a previous car I supercharged but I dont want to drop $900 on the car. Im in college and living on my own working part time at $12 an hour.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 03:29 |
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Read this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1410201 This will tell you how to buy the right cables to upload a map to your car by yourself using a laptop. It's very easy, as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. You could even see if anyone in your area has the cables you need and borrow them. Then, buy one of these maps: http://www.xpttuning.com/ Flash your car by yourself. XPT maps are loads better than anything Cobb (in my opinion and experience). The maps are cheap and make good power. OpenSource + XPT is the way to go if you're on a budget.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 03:47 |
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EDIT: Probably going to just buy a tactrix, anyone got a 1.3 or 2.0 they want to sell? It seems that while 04,05,06 cars can use an $18 CAN BUS cable, bugeye owners arent so lucky save for one or two who were no help. get out posted:Read this: EDIT: I am comfortable with that. So it seems I can get a baseline XPT tune map and the cables I need for about $250. Am I missing something here? Would I be able to do it for $100 using just a regular OBDII to USB adaptor like this "VW" unit: http://www.alpha-bid.com/vagusb.html not really an edit: As I wrote this I found: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921677 AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Mar 18, 2010 |
# ? Mar 18, 2010 05:28 |
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Say my cousin Fred has a Company XYZ Baseline Internet "Stage Z" tune and an open port cable, whats to stop him from dumping his tune, lending me his cable, using that till I get it where I want it and then giving it back? Are the tunes protected somehow? I am just wondering why every forum isnt filled with XYZTune.bin uploads.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 07:47 |
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yeah, tunes are generally locked by the tuner. plus it's kind of rare for two people to have exactly the same mods, hence the difficulty of making a "stage 2" tune that works well for most people. EcuTEK, for example, would straight up lock the entire ecu, so you couldn't do anything to it, including reflash it with different software.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 08:04 |
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jamal posted:yeah, tunes are generally locked by the tuner. plus it's kind of rare for two people to have exactly the same mods, hence the difficulty of making a "stage 2" tune that works well for most people. EcuTEK, for example, would straight up lock the entire ecu, so you couldn't do anything to it, including reflash it with different software. I mean like when I pay for and download an XPT Tube for example to use with opensource software. Whats to stop me from sharing what I download, which I assume will be a bin file, with the rest of the world or just posting up all the values from it for the internet to see?
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 08:14 |
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jamal posted:can't just swap throttle bodies, but you can swap the whole intake manifold and wiring harness, which is what you would need to do for it to work right anyway. I think some of the n/a motors have avcs or avls or something these days so you would have to check on that. i-AVLS is 2006+ for the 2.5L so he's good there.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 09:20 |
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CharlesM posted:i-AVLS is 2006+ for the 2.5L so he's good there. Awesome. I guess worst comes to worst I can strip it down to the shortblock, because thats all I really need anyways. Looks like the seller might want too much for it though. Thanks everyone.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 11:51 |
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Wrar posted:Hey guys, I need new brake pads for my DD 9-2x Aero. Any suggestions? Likewise. I've heard good things about EBC reds. Is this good advice?
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 12:10 |
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RealKyleH posted:I mean like when I pay for and download an XPT Tube for example to use with opensource software. Whats to stop me from sharing what I download, which I assume will be a bin file, with the rest of the world or just posting up all the values from it for the internet to see? It's basically the honour system. The XPT guy basically begs people not to share the maps. I'd side with him as well. The maps are not that expensive, and it's worth supporting the open source guys. I'm running an XPT stage 2 on my WRX with the Tactrix cable. It's fairly easy. For the other poster who asked, I'd recommend going easy for the first little while, and use Enginuity's ECU Logger to log EGT temps, boost levels and other important metrics when using the maps for the first time. If you're really into it, a wideband O2 sensor is a good investment. I do love the 2 step launch rev limiter, I have it set to 5200 RPM and it makes gravel launches awesome
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 13:17 |
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I'm due for my 60,000 service and its expensive. (05 WRX) I've been quoted ~$600 from my dealer and ~$400 for a local reputable shop that works on everything. Is it worth the extra money to have the dealer do it? Any reason why a local "do everything shop" wouldn't be as good?
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 16:04 |
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Pulled the trigger on the Tactrix OP2.0, gonna try a well reviewed map posted to the romraider forums and if that works ok stick with that, if not I'll buy one. I am considering adding a 3-port EBCS as I still have lots of them sitting around from my business so itd be like its free. Is it worth it to add in the 3 port EBCS? I'll of course read the related tuning instructions for WGDC and whatever else it affects. Needless to say I'm excited as hell, thanks for the help. Since my cellphone uses a Micro SD card it should be super convenient to datalog every now and then and see how its doing. EDIT: Seriously Im a kid on christmas. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Mar 18, 2010 |
# ? Mar 18, 2010 18:52 |
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What's the risk surrounding flashing your car with the open source stuff? Is there any way to completely brick your ECU doing it? I know the Accessport is expensive, but at least if it fries your stuff you have a company to complain to.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 19:23 |
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warwick5s posted:What's the risk surrounding flashing your car with the open source stuff? Is there any way to completely brick your ECU doing it? From what I've read its a possibility but there's hundreds of people who have done it. That said Tactrix offers a $75 recover service if you gently caress it up, though it wont fix all cars.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 19:28 |
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get out posted:c/n: You will not be happy with any of the Cobb OTS maps for very long and you'll want more power. That's an opinion. I've had the Cobb OTS stage 1 in my '09 STi for 5 months and I think it's great. I'm still not bored with it and while I am going to get a downpipe and flash to stage 2, I don't think I NEED more power. (and I spent the last decade driving a 12 second 400hp Talon and two Lancer Evolutions). It's just so cheap and easy to go stage 2, I might as well. Plus remember that Cobb comes with stage 1 and 2. So yes, you are paying $600, but you can flash to stage 1 and then go stage 2 without needing another custom tune (two for the price of 1, plus the hardware and monitoring ability). If you spent $500 for your one custom tune, what happens if you want to change it? Another $500? I completely support Cobb AP and while it will be beneficial to get a custom tune, if you don't want to spend that kind of money and want the ability to flash back to stock, valet, etc, it is a great way to go. I spent years driving my Talon and tuning on the fly with an SAFC. After having to deal with that for so long (I kinda miss it), I love the ease and drivability of the Cobb.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 19:43 |
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BoostCreep posted:That's an opinion. I've had the Cobb OTS stage 1 in my '09 STi for 5 months and I think it's great. I'm still not bored with it and while I am going to get a downpipe and flash to stage 2, I don't think I NEED more power. (and I spent the last decade driving a 12 second 400hp Talon and two Lancer Evolutions). It's just so cheap and easy to go stage 2, I might as well. Plus remember that Cobb comes with stage 1 and 2. So yes, you are paying $600, but you can flash to stage 1 and then go stage 2 without needing another custom tune (two for the price of 1, plus the hardware and monitoring ability). If you spent $500 for your one custom tune, what happens if you want to change it? Another $500? Second. I've had the Cobb Stage 1 in my 2005 LGT for over a year now. It not only improved the power, but really made the car more usable around town. The power comes on lower and stronger, and it really flattened out the power curve. Mileage stayed more or less the same after the reflash, and I've seen several folks saying their mileage increased. I'm also planning on going Stage 2 eventually, but this is fine for now, especially considering there aren't any well-regarded tuner shops around here and I don't trust myself with computers enough not to find a way to brick my ECU. The datalogging, code reading and other functions in the AP v2 are also pretty useful. @RealKyleH: You're in Orlando, right? If your stuff gets here before the end of next week, make the drive to Gainesville and come test it out at the test and tune on the road course at Gainesville Raceway on the 27th. It's $95 for probably all the laps you want.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 20:09 |
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Bud Manstrong posted:
Goon gf lives in gainesville but doesnt care about cars. Shed probably be like I'm bored this sucks blahhh.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 20:29 |
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Bud Manstrong posted:It not only improved the power, but really made the car more usable around town. The power comes on lower and stronger, and it really flattened out the power curve. See, this sounds really loving appealing. I don't really need more overall power, but having it be a little more usable would be really nice.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 21:07 |
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warwick5s posted:See, this sounds really loving appealing. I don't really need more overall power, but having it be a little more usable would be really nice. Man, tell me about it. My N/A 2.5 forester is completely gutless below 4000rpm. I love the car, but I really wish it got any meaningful power at low rpms.
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 21:22 |
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This might have already been addressed in this thread, but to those of you with non-stock tunes on the 2.5T in newish cars (I'm specifically thinking of the new STi), do you feel that the tune is worth the loss of warranty? Are you concerned about OMG RINGLANDS etc etc? There just seems to be so much conflicting information regarding the strength of the pistons out there. What I've gleaned from iWSTi et. al. is that people think the stock tune is less safe for the pistons because it's too lean below 4k for emissions reasons... but nobody has really demonstrated the stock tune to actually be more dangerous than a retune. Opinions? Just how bad is the stock tune as far as drivability goes?
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# ? Mar 18, 2010 22:05 |
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Hog Obituary posted:This might have already been addressed in this thread, but to those of you with non-stock tunes on the 2.5T in newish cars (I'm specifically thinking of the new STi), do you feel that the tune is worth the loss of warranty? Are you concerned about OMG RINGLANDS etc etc? There just seems to be so much conflicting information regarding the strength of the pistons out there. What I've gleaned from iWSTi et. al. is that people think the stock tune is less safe for the pistons because it's too lean below 4k for emissions reasons... but nobody has really demonstrated the stock tune to actually be more dangerous than a retune. Opinions? Just how bad is the stock tune as far as drivability goes? I've got a 2.5 turbo, but it's older and hasn't been affected by the recent issues. That said, it's got its own set of known drivetrain issues (injectors, banjo bolt screen, partridge in pear tree, etc.). I've been running a mild tune for the last year of warranty time and haven't worried a bit about it. Worst case scenario, you can always reflash/unmarry the device before you drive/push/drag the car in. A non-stock tune mild enough not to be coupled with drivetrain mods (UP, DP, new turbo) isn't going to be the difference between the engine grenading and not. I wouldn't be concerned about it.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 03:02 |
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RealKyleH posted:Say my cousin Fred has a Company XYZ Baseline Internet "Stage Z" tune and an open port cable, whats to stop him from dumping his tune, lending me his cable, using that till I get it where I want it and then giving it back? Are the tunes protected somehow? I am just wondering why every forum isnt filled with XYZTune.bin uploads. In Australia locking a tune is illegal and I would suspect that if push came to shove, also in the USA. The reason is that a tune falls under the "work for hire" provision of the copyright act. The person who pays is the owner, not the tuner. It's also debateable that a tune could even be a copyright work in the first place and I know of a case here where a tuner did lose when trying to use this. If a tuner tries to lock me out of MY ECU, the answer would be to take his rear end to Trade Practices - I paid for the drat thing as a work for hire and it's thence MINE. One of the real points about ECU locking is that "Oh hey but you can trade it...." bullshit is not quite true. The simple fact is even if your mods are exactly the same, the tune will NOT work the same due to variances in the engine and associated hardware. Now, I have used a basemap obtained elsewhere as a starting point, but for instance on the rallycar, despite the fact I have a very good map made by a top Group N team, it's only a starting point and I am going to spend the time to retune to suit the car and also to me. A good tuner not just does it to suit the car, but the driver as well - I have different requirements and I like my cars to work in certain ways. So to be honest, swapping tunes is not actually a good idea. Not that it's possible to lock someone out anyway completely. There's always ways to break a lock. quote:I mean like when I pay for and download an XPT Tube for example to use with opensource software. Whats to stop me from sharing what I download, which I assume will be a bin file, with the rest of the world or just posting up all the values from it for the internet to see? Being that this is not a work for hire, you could be on a more dubious legal grounds. Whether or not it's made for open source, you dont automatically have any rights to re-distribute. That is, if an ECU tune file actually is copyrightable in the first place, which as mentioned is a legal grey area where the tuner can lose. The actual ECU firmware on the other hand IS a copyright work. So - if you go to a tuner, ask for dynotime to get a tune and pay for it, the tune is yours, work for hire provision. IF you buy a prebuilt tune it wasnt a work for hire, it's not yours to redistribute. Lawyers love this poo poo.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 07:31 |
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Bud Manstrong posted:I've got a 2.5 turbo, but it's older and hasn't been affected by the recent issues. That said, it's got its own set of known drivetrain issues (injectors, banjo bolt screen, partridge in pear tree, etc.). I've been running a mild tune for the last year of warranty time and haven't worried a bit about it. Worst case scenario, you can always reflash/unmarry the device before you drive/push/drag the car in. A non-stock tune mild enough not to be coupled with drivetrain mods (UP, DP, new turbo) isn't going to be the difference between the engine grenading and not. I wouldn't be concerned about it. For what it is worth, my engine is hosed (100psi on 4th cyl with 60% loss leakdown). I'm still not sure which tune killed it (though I'm 99.9% sure it wasn't stg2), as it is still completely drivable. I've had stock, cobb stg 1, and cob stg2 on it. Note that my car has a hold load of auto-xes on it and a dozen or so trackdays. The most interesting thing to me is that I had this had almost no signs. I still have no noticeable power loss (I can still pull on the cars I'm supposed to) and until I put the downpipe on and upped the boost, my oil consumption was "normal" (5qt per 1000mi). Hell, even my UOAs are perfectly clean. So what I'm saying is get a leakdown before your warranty runs. I'm pretty drat sure this happened during my powertrain warranty, but now I'm 20k after the warranty ran and I'm hosed. Cat Terrist posted:In Australia locking a tune is illegal and I would suspect that if push came to shove, also in the USA.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 09:54 |
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nm posted:My minimal level of US copyright (I'm an attorney, but criminal law) tells me this isn't true in the US. The US also allow software patents, which are not recognised in any shape or form outside the USA. Now, if the Work for Hire provision isn't applicable (And I would suspect it would, you are not automatically granted copyright in cases of say producing code for an employer, especially if you sign a contract), a tune at best is a derivative work, based on the work of the original coder. You are not doing a unique work and that is why the tuner in Aust lost. That and the fact what he did the work on was not his property, so he cant claim anything. Tuners may want to "protect" their work, but I would suggest car owners have more rights over custom tuning maps.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 10:12 |
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I'm looking locally at a couple of cheaper used dealer Subarus and I'm hoping to check them out today. 98 Legacy L w/76,635 $4995 Auto 98 Legacy L w/70,626 $4995 Auto 01 Forester S w/74273 $5877 Auto 00 Outback w/89,000 $5735 5spd Is there anything in particular I should be looking for in the above model years? Headgaskets in the non 2.2 cars?
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 14:03 |
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cmorrow001 posted:I'm due for my 60,000 service and its expensive. (05 WRX) Anyone have an opinion? I'm leaning towards the non-dealer to save money but I'd swing the extra if it's worth it.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 14:31 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 22:00 |
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Okay - yet another "should I buy this Subauru" whine post from me. I need something other than my miata for when I need to move crap. 2005 Legacy 2.5i (base) wagon in black with dark interior. 5MT, 92k miles, supposedly with full maintenance records. Original owner, 67 years old, includes a spare set of alloys that the guy used to use for snow tires.. Price is $7250, not negotiable. FM reception supposedly sucks (could be a number of things according to legacygt.com) and it has a small dent in the rear bumper. Problem is this: Car is 350 miles (6hrs) away. Edmunds says the price is about dead on... but cars.com, autotrader, ebay, and CL all show nothing below $8500. If it's a good deal I'll make the drive, otherwise I'll just sit and wait.
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# ? Mar 19, 2010 15:33 |