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Sprat Sandwich posted:Have you updated PhysX? Video drivers? My driver version is currently 196.21; do I need to download separate PhysX software for it to work -- even though it's toggled as "enabled" on the control panel already? Edit: downloaded and installed PhysX 9.09.1112, but still getting the same message. Edit: when I boot up B:AA, there's a "PHYSX -- CPU" label that's always in the upper-left corner of the screen. Any idea what this means? Jetfire fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 18:26
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I think that means it is executing physx instructions on your cpu instead of your gpu.(Which will have a massive performance hit compared to doing it on a physx enabled gpu)
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Mar 13, 2010 19:13
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KillHour posted:Why do you want the sticks to be in adjacent slots? If the sticks are in 1/3 or 2/4 it runs in dual channel mode, and supports 8 (or 4, I'm getting mixed info) gigs. When they're in adjacent slots, it runs in single channel mode, and supports only 2 gigs. This is dependent on the board
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Mar 13, 2010 20:14
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:I think that means it is executing physx instructions on your cpu instead of your gpu.(Which will have a massive performance hit compared to doing it on a physx enabled gpu) Well that's really weird. How the heck am I supposed to point it to my GPU, then?
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Mar 13, 2010 20:24
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subx posted:This is dependent on the board Everything I've seen points to it being the case for this specific board. Could be wrong though. Anyone know for sure?
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Mar 13, 2010 20:42
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KillHour posted:Why do you want the sticks to be in adjacent slots? If the sticks are in 1/3 or 2/4 it runs in dual channel mode, and supports 8 (or 4, I'm getting mixed info) gigs. When they're in adjacent slots, it runs in single channel mode, and supports only 2 gigs. This is what the manual says:  When the sticks are loaded in 1/3 it boots an recognizes 4GB of 64-bit single-channel PC3200.  Now as I understand it, that means my memory is single-rank 64-bit and is not compatible with dual channel (?), so I can't load another 4GB in this system?
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Mar 13, 2010 23:28
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Just another update, my system was very unstable after installing the RAM and got tons of random BSOD errors - I tried formatting XP 64-bit (which is problematic anyway) and I had issues with the Vista 64 installer as well. Ran Memtest86, and it would crash out on the first test at the same percentage each time. I changed the MTRR mapping mode to "discrete" and it passed, but the system only recognizes 3.4GB. This motherboard is a complete piece of poo poo and there's no good documentation on it so I'm mostly guessing my way through. One specific issue is that the LAN would constantly stop working and need to be disabled/reenabled... the more I read, it's possible that 4GB+ memory may be loving with other components way too old for it. Also, the RAM is ECC but it's not enabled (as reported by software) and I don't think the motherboard supports it anyway. NOTinuyasha fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Mar 14, 2010 |
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Mar 14, 2010 16:50
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What is your power supply unit?
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Mar 14, 2010 17:32
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sm8000 posted:What is your power supply unit? An Antec Earthwatts 430w. I put the old RAM in and it's working fine now. I have a feeling the EEC 2GB sticks just aren't compatible with my system, but not because they're defective. I'm gonna see how cheap I can pick up 2x1GB dual channel and stick to the actual chipset maximum, and put the ECC in my server.
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Mar 15, 2010 01:01
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I'm pretty sure the PSU in our 6 year old PC is dead. It started with not being able to start it all the time. By fiddling the with power cord it would start on alright. Now it won't start at all. Apparantly my mum did smell some burnt smell once. Does this sound about right? I don't want to buy a PSU and then find out its the mobo or something. Will I be ok in putting in a new Antec Signature 650w PSU in it to test? Is there any kind of connection thats changed in ~5-6 years?
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Mar 16, 2010 02:30
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Fists Up posted:I'm pretty sure the PSU in our 6 year old PC is dead. No, you should have all the connections you need - some new ones have been added but all the old ones are still there. But, a couple of questions: Is it a prebuilt machine or one you built yourself with an ATX case? If it's a prebuilt HP of something, then you might not be able to put a new power supply in. Do you really need 650w? You could probably get away with quite a bit less.
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Mar 16, 2010 02:33
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subx posted:No, you should have all the connections you need - some new ones have been added but all the old ones are still there. But, a couple of questions: 1. Its not a prebuilt. Built from quality parts with a giant Lian Li case 2. The 650W is from my own computer and its just to test to see if everything works fine. I am not actually putting that in. I tested it and it does seem to be the PSU hosed up but I'm still thinking its time for my mum to upgrade and I will buy the bare specs and put it in the old case. New question. If i buy a new mobo/ram/CPU/PSU will it gently caress up when booting from the old hard drive? Its also IDE which could be a problem? I think everything is backed up from there anyway so I will probably buy a new HDD as well.
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Mar 16, 2010 10:49
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Reinstall Windows if you possibly can. Old drivers can do crazy poo poo and while you can go into Safe Mode and nuke them all it's really not worth the effort. You should just buy a new HDD if it's IDE though since newer HDDs are amazingly fast.
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Mar 16, 2010 11:16
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Yeh I dont think its worth the effort. Will quickly boot the old computer and see if theres anything need saving. Then bin it.
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Mar 16, 2010 13:09
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Has anyone successfully used the freebie Stamps.com USB scale without their software? Can it even be done?
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Mar 16, 2010 18:11
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sm8000 posted:I've determined that the wireless NIC in my laptop is lovely, I'm sure due to lovely drivers. I'm using one that doesn't suck in my Cardbus slot, but I'd like to replace the internal one. It is a Mini PCI Type IIIB: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conventional_PCI#Mini_PCI - picture on the right. No answer to this yet  It turns out I'm also in need of infrared - my laptop is an HP Pavilion dv5030us and today I picked up a remote for it. However it needs infrared and it seems my laptop doesn't have that.Can I get an internal wireless card to replace the current one, that also adds IR support?
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Mar 17, 2010 03:38
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So what is a good temperature at load for a stock-cooled i5-750? I was keeping an eye on temps during Crysis and it was around 60C. Seems well south of the 70 or so that it's apparently temperature-rated for, but I thought I'd ask.
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Mar 18, 2010 06:59
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Nomenklatura posted:So what is a good temperature at load for a stock-cooled i5-750? I was keeping an eye on temps during Crysis and it was around 60C. Seems well south of the 70 or so that it's apparently temperature-rated for, but I thought I'd ask. TJ max is near 100C for the i5 750. Anything under 80C is more then 20C away from TJ max and perfectly healthy.
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Mar 18, 2010 07:17
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malefactor posted:TJ max is near 100C for the i5 750. i got some nice perry ellis portfolio slacks at TJ max for $15 bucks when they normally were $70.
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Mar 18, 2010 08:27
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sm8000 posted:No answer to this yet I'm not sure what chip your laptop has now, but the Broadcom and Intel ProSet internal wireless cards seem to be OK. They're all over ebay for $10 or so. They do made wireless card that have bluetooth built in as well, but they seem to just be available in the Mini PCI-E slots though. The infrared on the laptop is actually built onto the mainboard and not available as a removable card. Your laptop came with the remote originally so it should have IR built in, perhaps it's just disabled?
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Mar 18, 2010 17:32
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BorderPatrol posted:I'm not sure what chip your laptop has now, but the Broadcom and Intel ProSet internal wireless cards seem to be OK. They're all over ebay for $10 or so. The embedded WLAN in my laptop is a Broadcom 4318. Maybe when I upgrade it to Vista it will have better drivers. I can't find anything in the BIOS about infrared. Not sure if my model originally came with a remote or not.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:08
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sm8000 posted:The embedded WLAN in my laptop is a Broadcom 4318. Maybe when I upgrade it to Vista it will have better drivers. I can't find anything in the BIOS about infrared. Not sure if my model originally came with a remote or not. First off, you're not likely to find any wireless card that has infrared support built in. Infrared support is almost always built into the motherboard; if your motherboard doesn't have it, sorry, you're not going to get infrared. The good news is that, according to the spec list you posted, your laptop does have infrared support: under "External Ports," there's a listing for "1x Consumer IR." The receiving window should be next to the power/charging/hard drive indicator lights. Do you have an "Infrared" option in control panel? And have you tried just throwing a new battery in there, pointing it at the receiver, and seeing if it works? It may be that the remote receiver functionality is integrated into the keyboard at a low level or something.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:44
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Nothing in Control Panel, but I will try a new battery and post back when I have. Thanks!
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Mar 18, 2010 21:07
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Anybody found a gaming wireless mouse that doesn't give you the feeling that it's lagging behind? Basically I would ditch wired mice if while using a wireless one I couldn't tell the difference.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:08
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JohnnyCanuck posted:
So this issue? Power supply. I grabbed a new case and power supply the other day because my front panel had gone really wonky on me, and USB connections were failing to register nearly half the time. I'm now rocking an Antec Sonata III Quiet case, and a 500W power supply, and the PC is purring like a kitten.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:11
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DreadCthulhu posted:Anybody found a gaming wireless mouse that doesn't give you the feeling that it's lagging behind? Basically I would ditch wired mice if while using a wireless one I couldn't tell the difference. Well I have a Razer Mamba and there's zero lag on it. The wired+wireless thing is cool, since it's easy to forget to charge it. Of course I got it for Christmas and would never spend $130 on a mouse for myself. Is it worth $130? Eh, doubtful, but I like it quite a bit.
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Mar 19, 2010 03:33
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We have an old AMD 2200 or something similar with only 256 MB of RAM. I honestly do not know this: Have the standards changed since then or could I simply buy any more cheap RAM chips, insert it and have a better working computer? Would there be a maximum accepted memory size for it, as it doesn't recognize a single 512 MB chip or something, and what would happen then? Thinking about buying a Windows 7 OEM for a laptop that's showing a few problems. Should the laptop die, is the OEM worthless, as it can't be transferred to another PC? Thanks in advance!
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Mar 19, 2010 14:17
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The easiest way to determine potential upgrades for that AMD computer is to go to e.g. crucial.com and plug in the motherboard make and model. If it's a prebuilt (e.g. HP, Dell, etc.) you can search by that model. As for the laptop, what kind of problems is it showing and what kind of hardware does it run (what make/model is it)? I don't think you can use an OEM anyway, maybe if it's the same brand as the OEM disc but I'm not sure about that either.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:20
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1. Ah, okay. Thanks! 2. It doesn't like its original battery any more (blinking red light) and complains that it can't detect the power source when its plugged in (without battery). It still works despite these error messages though. Seems to be something with the mainboard as the battery is working correctly. It's a Vostro 1400. Dell does not provide Windows 7 drivers but I think it's very likely that it actually can run W7 (I asked about it in this thread before I think). Thanks so far!
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Mar 19, 2010 15:44
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It might just be that you need a new DC jack, which tend to be cheap and easy to replace (may require some soldering, though). Checking the specs of that laptop, it should run Win7 just fine, though you may need to get drivers from e.g. intel.com
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Mar 19, 2010 15:55
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I have a SB XFi Fatality Pro soundcard that having problems out the rear end on Windows 7 64 Pro. From getting the local radio playing through my speakers, having random hiss and pops, and not even picking up my mic at all, I switched to my Realtek HD and been using it till Creative make s non-beta driver for Windows 7. Even the mod XFi drivers don't work a poo poo and hosed up the hardware profile for the card in my current install. So is there any really advantage to having a sound card nowadays that is not onboard? I miss the better sound quality from the creative cards but the amount of headaches to have it working make it not worth it at all. At the moment, I would need to format my whole computer to have my sound card working again.
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Mar 19, 2010 17:03
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Nowadays, an aftermarket sound card's advantages are basically features not always included in onboard sound like Dolby Digital/DTS, etc. Check out this thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3242925
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Mar 19, 2010 17:12
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I considered making this a new thread, but I should probably trial run it here first: What, in your experience, is the life cycle of a DSL gateway/router? What I want to know is how it behaves at various points in its life. How does its quality degrade as it ages, and in what ways? What stops working first as in which parts (software/hardware). I obviously don't expect a clear cut time line guide, I just want to hear your own experiences about what gave first, what underperformed first, and what made you decide your router was broken and made you replace it. I ask this because I know very little about how to troubleshoot router problems as opposed to problems with an ISP/land-line/network issue or whatever, and I'd like to remedy that. Swamp Zero fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Mar 20, 2010 |
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Mar 20, 2010 12:18
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You're better off learning how to troubleshoot ISP/connectivity issues first. Don't assume any hardware has failed until you've eliminated as much else as possible first. For example, if it's DSL and it uses PPPoE credentials (a login name & password), then I use those credentials and see if I get connected on dialup, or if I can login to the ISP's portal. If it's AT&T DSL, I can use the name/pass at yahoo.com Also, plug a telephone into the DSL phone jack, if you don't get a dial tone that's trouble. If it's DSL via PPPoE, is the modem set in bridge mode and does the router have the credentials set up? Can you ping the router? Can you ping a DNS server? Can you ping google.com? There are some things to try.
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Mar 20, 2010 16:28
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sm8000 posted:You're better off learning how to troubleshoot ISP/connectivity issues first. Don't assume any hardware has failed until you've eliminated as much else as possible first. I'm sorry if I was too vague: My hardware has not failed, but I did think (and I want to learn more about, hence these posts) that my router was not working optimally, and (maybe???) introducing more noise to my line or causing more disconnects or I don't even know. Is that even possible, or do they just go from working good to dead? Apparently there was an increase in noise on my line ( I can't tell you how gradual it was, it did not happen while I was here) , which was already pretty far from the DSLAM to begin with and I had a lot of disconnects with the router losing the line completely, and being unable to re-establish the PPP connection once lost, even after several tries. The ISP technician downgraded the connection (from 8 to 2), did some benchmarks, changed some things on their side (didn't really tell me what) and re upgraded the connection from 2 to 8. I asked him if it was possible the router (2+ years) was making things worse. He said maybe, but didn't elaborate. The situation got better, still had some disconnects, but the router could always reconnect on the first try. Now I changed it with another router I had lying around, I'm not seeing any disconnects anymore. So you see, I kinda want to hear about experiences so I can figure out when is reasonable to think that the router might be at fault. Swamp Zero fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Mar 20, 2010 |
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Mar 20, 2010 17:02
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What's the best way to clean my Laptop's LCD? It's really dusty and poo poo.
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Mar 20, 2010 21:20
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Not entirely sure whether this belongs here or over in DIY. I was having issues streaming high quality video files over my network to a media PC on another floor of the house. I suspected this was wifi related and so I took the PC and HDTV up to the room with the router and hooked things up directly to the router. It worked fine, streaming was no problem. This means I've got a wifi problem and the easiest solution is to run a cable. But that would mean running it out the door, through the hallway, down the stairs, and through the railing to the TV's location. I don't like this plan. I was considering maybe doing some sort of cable drop, but I don't really know how to run the cable through the wall or any of that, is that hard to learn? Would I be better off hiring an electrician? Is there perhaps another way that I am overlooking? I think the Wifi card in that machine is a G, but I'm gonna double check. Edit: Definitely G and further testing shows that in the same room as the router via wifi, I get no buffering issues, even when skipping around in a high quality video. So, it's definitely the wifi reception I get downstairs. I guess some way to increase the reception downstairs would also be enough to fix my issue. Edit2: Edit3: And it all works now. Although I don't trust it, so I'm still open to other ideas for making it better. Fox_Spy fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Mar 21, 2010 |
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Mar 21, 2010 02:04
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Fox_Spy posted:Not entirely sure whether this belongs here or over in DIY. I was having issues streaming high quality video files over my network to a media PC on another floor of the house. I suspected this was wifi related and so I took the PC and HDTV up to the room with the router and hooked things up directly to the router. It worked fine, streaming was no problem. This means I've got a wifi problem and the easiest solution is to run a cable. But that would mean running it out the door, through the hallway, down the stairs, and through the railing to the TV's location. I don't like this plan. I was considering maybe doing some sort of cable drop, but I don't really know how to run the cable through the wall or any of that, is that hard to learn? Would I be better off hiring an electrician? Is there perhaps another way that I am overlooking? I think the Wifi card in that machine is a G, but I'm gonna double check. I am no expert but I recently had the same problem as you with the fios modem/router. It is pretty bad - I did speedtest upstairs and it was 2-3 megabits and 25 downstairs where the router is (it was supposed to be 25). Having never had a problem before, I turned off the router part of the fios modem and started using the Airport Extreme again, and it's 25 both upstairs and down. I think the antenna is just really weak or something. That said, my laptop gets a much better signal upstairs than my desktop, probably because I bought the cheapest wireless adapter I could find for my pc. I am now using an extra wireless router I had lying around as a sort of antenna, connected to my pc across the room with an ethernet cord, and the signal strength is a bit better, so that might be an option.
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Mar 21, 2010 15:44
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jrr posted:I am no expert but I recently had the same problem as you with the fios modem/router. It is pretty bad - I did speedtest upstairs and it was 2-3 megabits and 25 downstairs where the router is (it was supposed to be 25). Having never had a problem before, I turned off the router part of the fios modem and started using the Airport Extreme again, and it's 25 both upstairs and down. I think the antenna is just really weak or something. I actually have an old linksys router that I put custom firmware on to turn into a wireless bridge. I had it running off that for a while, but stopped when it looked like I was encountering network issues. I guess I can probably plug that back in now if I hit any further problems.
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Mar 21, 2010 22:01
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GruntyThrst posted:What's the best way to clean my Laptop's LCD? It's really dusty and poo poo. Just a lightly damp, very soft cloth. There are some special cleaners for LCDs you can use if you'd like as well. For the love of God don't use windex
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Mar 21, 2010 22:51
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