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Hey, tape isn't a bad idea! That wouldn't harm it at all I wouldn't think.. I may try that, and I'll report back. The way I thought about it was that vibrations are traveling through the speaker, and since they travel in a dented dome rather than a nice smooth dome it may affect it a tad. I could be wrong by all means though. Maybe I'll record a sound clip with it dented and another with it de-dented. thanks guys, any more suggestions are appreciated on the topic.
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Mar 10, 2010 02:13
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Tape is the way to go. If you don't want to fix it, don't bother. It's a cosmetic flaw and nothing else.
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Mar 10, 2010 17:32
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So I tried tape (duct tape, the real sticky kind) and the dent isn't budging. Oh well, it doesn't seem to affect the sound so I'll just leave it. Can't really see it under the grill anyway. Here's a pic for reference.. this beastly thing is like 70-80 lbs and is loud as hell. Gets a really good tone too, for being a combo amp from the late 80's, early 90's. Got it for a good price too.. $110 for the combo itself, with the original Peavy Black widow speaker.. the speakers dust cover was completely cracked off which distorted it. So I bought this slightly used 8ohm speaker (the head is 4ohms) for $35, and sold the old one to a friend (didn't care about the broken cover) for $25.. not too shabby.  Does anyone know what the Frequency (150-1.5k), Bandwidth (sharp-broad) and Mode (-17 to +17) knobs are used for? I messed with them a lot and so far I have concluded frequency controls the sharpness/roundness of the sound wave(similar to an EQ setting), but the others I can't quite pinpoint what they are doing. I r Pat fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Mar 11, 2010 |
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Mar 11, 2010 02:56
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That's just a parametric EQ with some weird names for the knobs. Frequency knob is what frequency it's centered on. Bandwidth is normally called 'Q', but it's how narrow or broad the effect of the boost or cut is, then mode is how much boost or cut you're doing.
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Mar 11, 2010 03:15
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Holy poo poo, what a monster. I love old Peavey stuff. Although the speaker fits and sounds good, be aware that you're gonna get half the output since you're using an 8-ohm driver. You very well may not notice it.
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Mar 11, 2010 03:43
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Kynetx posted:Holy poo poo, what a monster. I love old Peavey stuff. Although the speaker fits and sounds good, be aware that you're gonna get half the output since you're using an 8-ohm driver. You very well may not notice it. Yeah, I was told that.. this thing is so loud though I can't even tell the difference. Monster it is!
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Mar 11, 2010 04:57
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I r Pat - what a classic! I remember playing some of these old Peavys. This one looks like it has a pre-gain (pull knob). I think I fried one of these by running a bass through it (pre-pulled, all up, volume on the post not very high), but it gave me a great Cliff Burton sound!
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Mar 11, 2010 15:57
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Kynetx posted:I love old Peavey stuff. I've never messed w/any Peavey bass amps (only Fender and Ampeg since then,) but if they're anything like their guitar offerings, they're probably some high quality poo poo. I really think Peavey products are a great value.
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Mar 11, 2010 17:12
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betterinsodapop posted:I really think Peavey products are a great value. Oh, you do, do you? 1600 watts, 7 pounds, 300 dollars. $280 shipped from Northern Sound and Light! I'm going to be using these for my PA as soon as I can scrape the cash together. Twice the power of my current PV-8.5C and roughly 1/8 the weight.
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Mar 11, 2010 21:49
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Since my noise band stopped practicing regularly for Member Getting Out Of Town Girlfriend reasons I've started playing around with a couple other dudes. Since it's strictly bedroom level at this point I've decided to invest in an amp I can leave there that is not the 15" 75 pound combo amp I use now, which I love, but which is difficult to move across town without a car. I'm competing with an epiphone valve jr combo amp (attenuated through a Hot Plate just a little bit so it can be driven harder in a bedroom), a cheapo 2x8" no-name practice guitar amp that can compete with the epi, and a synth / drum machine that has a studio monitor rig. So in general the Valve Jr sets the volume standard. Here's what I need: - Can compete, volume wise, with an Epi Valve Jr combo - Takes effects really well; doesn't need onboard effects at all (I'm still deciding on a rig, but right now it looks like it's going to be modded DS-1 -> pulsar trem -> modded SD-1 -> OC-2 -> DD-3 -> PS-5 -> Univox Superfuzz clone) - Takes dirt really well (in general, I always play through at least one and usually two of a keeley'd and casper'd DS-1, a keeley'd SD-1, and a univox superfuzz clone; we love feedback) - Ideally something under 200 out the door although this is a bit flexible; I'd prefer not to buy new but a) Atomic Music usually has only higher end stuff and little in the way of bass combo amps and b) DC craigslist sucks really hard I was considering one of the Acoustic Control Corp combo amps but I don't know how well they take effects and grit, and I don't know if tiny bass bedroom amps can compete with tubes, really. Can anyone make a suggestion or point me in the right direction?
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Mar 16, 2010 15:32
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Acoustic has some good inexpensive reliable stuff. I own a Line 6 Low-Down 110. Its combo with 70 watts, and a 10" speaker. It gets the job done when I'm not practicing with a loud drummer with an acoustic kit. I bring it to my practice sessions when I'm playing with my guitarist, or when I'm recording something with my drummer who uses and electronic kit. I made the mistake of trying to use it with my old band where we had an obnoxiously loud drummer on an acoustic kit. I had to put the master volume to 11 sometimes.. now the thing gets distorted occasionally.. one too many times at 11 I suppose. edit- here it is http://www.guitarcenter.com/Line-6-Low-Down-Studio-110-Combo-Bass-Amp-104078472-i1170323.gc
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Mar 16, 2010 15:48
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I used to use the same amp and can definitely vouch for it. It's not a wall shaker but it will definitely meet your needs. Edit: Also it makes a good enough stool if you aren't too tall. Ideally bite sized.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:19
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If the combo amp has a non-adjustable tweeter dirt/grit is gonna sound terrible unless you throw a pedal like the VT Bass in front of it which will kill the high frequencies.
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Mar 17, 2010 00:05
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DrChu posted:If the combo amp has a non-adjustable tweeter dirt/grit is gonna sound terrible unless you throw a pedal like the VT Bass in front of it which will kill the high frequencies. I wound up going with the Acoustic B20 combo which doesn't apparently have a tweeter (160 shipped seemed pretty alright and it'll be fun having a junker to open up should I ever get sick of it). That said, I imagine it wouldn't be that hard to crack it open and add a pot if it did?
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Mar 17, 2010 13:22
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Kynetx posted:Oh, you do, do you? 1600 watts, 7 pounds, 300 dollars. $280 shipped from Northern Sound and Light! AMS had a good deal on Crown power amps last week sometime, but nothing THAT high powered/low priced.
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Mar 17, 2010 14:03
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This might be a stupid question, but does anyone know if Roland are due to bring out a new model of the Microcube RX anytime soon? I played one a couple of days ago and it seems like a great little portable practice amp, but it's two years old and I'm wondering if a new version (and price drop) might be around the corner
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Mar 18, 2010 01:15
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Colin Ex Machina posted:I wound up going with the Acoustic B20 combo which doesn't apparently have a tweeter (160 shipped seemed pretty alright and it'll be fun having a junker to open up should I ever get sick of it). That said, I imagine it wouldn't be that hard to crack it open and add a pot if it did? You would want an L-Pad (http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?FTR=l+pad&search_type=main&WebPage_ID=3&searchFilter=l+pad&x=0&y=0) instead of just a regular old pot, but the process would be similar.
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Mar 18, 2010 02:44
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betterinsodapop posted:Hot drat, that's a lot of power. I guess if I ever need to power to 810 cabs, I know where to look! Crown tends to underrate and the only way you're gonna pull 1600 watts out of the Peavey is 2 ohms per channel or 4 bridged. Still, the jump from 800 to 1600 watts is small in terms of perceived loudness. Honestly, if you build a system that has you cabling things to get 2 ohms at the amp terminals you really ought to buy more amps.
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Mar 18, 2010 22:31
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I'd have no real need for anything as powerful as either of those amps. It's more "bang for the buck" that I'm impressed with. (Where bang=wattage.) I was recently trying to buy an SVT410HLF cab around here, and was pretty excited to find one being sold close to my neighborhood. He was asking too much anyway, but he'd also wired it for 2 OHM. 
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Mar 19, 2010 14:43
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betterinsodapop posted:He was asking too much anyway, but he'd also wired it for 2 OHM. Did he say how? Technically you can't... you can put new drivers in it to change the load down to 2ohms, but you can't just "rewire" a cabinet to change the impedance.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:47
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Scarf posted:Did he say how? Technically you can't... you can put new drivers in it to change the load down to 2ohms, but you can't just "rewire" a cabinet to change the impedance. If you change from series to parallel you can change the ohmage. For instance, you can get a 16 ohm cab wired in series to 4 ohms by changing the wiring to parallel (or 8 to 2 in this case I'm assuming). I don't think there's really a way to go one step in either direction, though (ie from 8 to 4). http://www.legendarytones.com/ohms.html
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Mar 19, 2010 14:52
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Scarf posted:Did he say how? Technically you can't... you can put new drivers in it to change the load down to 2ohms, but you can't just "rewire" a cabinet to change the impedance.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:54
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Narwhale posted:If you change from series to parallel you can change the ohmage. For instance, you can get a 16 ohm cab wired in series to 4 ohms by changing the wiring to parallel (or 8 to 2 in this case I'm assuming). I don't think there's really a way to go one step in either direction, though (ie from 8 to 4). SVT410-HLF is already at 4ohms in Series/Parallel. You can't get to 2ohms from there I don't believe. It'd be a near no-resistance situation. He'd have to have changed the drivers.
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Mar 19, 2010 15:05
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Scarf posted:SVT410-HLF is already at 4ohms in Series/Parallel. You can't get to 2ohms from there I don't believe. It'd be a near no-resistance situation. Ah, I'm not familiar with that particular cabinet. I thought you meant you can't change impedance in general.
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Mar 19, 2010 15:35
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   Recently, Fender came out with some new American Deluxe basses. Active pre-amp with passive tone control and an active/passive switch. They look pretty nice. They lowered the frets to 21 instead of 22 though. It's also too bad that they removed the double-J from the Precision model. I guess they're going for around $2500? That's not out of line for a "premium" bass, I guess. I do love block inlays... EDIT: Before people think this is spam, I have to say that a bass usually gets wasted on me after the $600-700 range. The Mexican range seems to be getting a lot better recently. I kind of wish standard MIM basses with maple fretboards had been available when I was last shopping for a bass... Eric Cantonese fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Mar 19, 2010 |
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Mar 19, 2010 21:03
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Scarf posted:SVT410-HLF is already at 4ohms in Series/Parallel. You can't get to 2ohms from there I don't believe. It'd be a near no-resistance situation. 4 8-ohm in parallel will get you to 2 ohms, 4 4-ohm in parallel gets you to 1 ohm. You could get to 2 ohms with a 4-ohm 8-driver cab in a series/parallel arrangement... Yeah, can't be done in a 4-driver cab.
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Mar 20, 2010 19:49
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Ok so I picked up a Micro Cube and it's awesome, but one thing I've started noticing now is that whenever I touch the strings I get a static crackle/pop from the amp, which can sometimes be really loud. Is this a problem with my amp or my bass, and what can I do about it? EDIT: A bit more information, if I wiggle the jack (it's a brand new Planet Waves cable) around in the jack I can get a very loud pop - there's some hum which makes the effect worse, messing with the jack makes it temporarily stronger or weaker. Annnnd I just plugged my Yamaha Pacifica in there and it's having the same problem, which could very well be a guitar fault too. The amp hums loudly when the cable's only plugged into the amp too, even with the gain low. Grounding issue maybe, and is it something I'll just have to put up with? It's an ex-display model so I'm wary of a fault, but if it's not obvious I know almost nothing about electrical stuff, so I don't know if any of this is normal. baka kaba fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 22, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 01:17
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my local guitar center is selling a used one of these. should i buy it? tell me that i shouldn't buy it. tell me that i shouldn't get this thing and use it to fill in the space that will be left by my strat and my dano.
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Mar 22, 2010 21:09
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PenguinBob posted:my local guitar center is selling a used one of these. should i buy it? tell me that i shouldn't buy it. tell me that i shouldn't get this thing and use it to fill in the space that will be left by my strat and my dano. Do you need it? Do you want to play an unlined fretless? Do you have a use for it? I see these show up used at the local GC too, and they usually go pretty cheap because they just don't move. $500... maybe $550 at rock bottom, while they try to get $650-750 out of em on the shelf. What's your GC selling it for?
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Mar 22, 2010 21:43
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baka kaba posted:Ok so I picked up a Micro Cube and it's awesome, but one thing I've started noticing now is that whenever I touch the strings I get a static crackle/pop from the amp, which can sometimes be really loud. Is this a problem with my amp or my bass, and what can I do about it?
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Mar 22, 2010 21:44
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Schatten posted:Do you need it? Do you want to play an unlined fretless? Do you have a use for it? I see these show up used at the local GC too, and they usually go pretty cheap because they just don't move. $500... maybe $550 at rock bottom, while they try to get $650-750 out of em on the shelf. What's your GC selling it for? I started out on an upright, a lack of lines does not bother me. I've got a fretless J, but I honestly don't know how to make it feel the way I want. I kind of like the baseball bat-ishness of the neck on the Wick. it's selling for about $550 and I can probably get it out the door for $550 even, because that loving bass has been there since the store opened about six years ago.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:03
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PenguinBob posted:I started out on an upright, a lack of lines does not bother me. I've got a fretless J, but I honestly don't know how to make it feel the way I want. I kind of like the baseball bat-ishness of the neck on the Wick. it's selling for about $550 and I can probably get it out the door for $550 even, because that loving bass has been there since the store opened about six years ago. Some things sit - just depends how much they paid for it, so it doesn't look like they are losing a dollar on it in the books. Some things they overpay for and they will sit until a sucker buys it. Some items, and some GC's have wiggle room, but over the past two years, I've seen that wiggle room shrink since their new ownership. Also, if you are in TX, and have the forms, you can save a few bucks and avoid taxes.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:30
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PenguinBob posted:my local guitar center is selling a used one of these. should i buy it? tell me that i shouldn't buy it. tell me that i shouldn't get this thing and use it to fill in the space that will be left by my strat and my dano. It has a cock. Do you like the cock? If so, get a Corvette. If you just like ugly basses, there's always the Danelectro Longhorn. Yes, I will readily admit that I wouldn't play an ugly bass even if Jesus Christ was my luthier.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:56
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Kynetx posted:It has a cock. Do you like the cock? If so, get a Corvette. If you just like ugly basses, there's always the Danelectro Longhorn. But what if was Carl Thompson? That ought to tip the scales. Fake edit: Oh wait, what a dumb idea, there's no such thing as an ugly Carl Thompson bass.
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Mar 22, 2010 23:41
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I basically know jack about electronics but I want to put some new pickups in my MIM J-bass. Anyone know if these pickups are decent at all? http://www.guitarcenter.com/DiMarzio-DP123-Model-J-Bass-Pickup-Set-302290-i1127662.gc I like the "typical" Jazz bass sound and these pickups advertise that as the same but better but I dunno. I'm in a sort of prog/metalcore band but I don't want some super-metal pickups in there or anything. I can try to be more specific if needed.
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Mar 25, 2010 18:53
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Greetings. I've been teaching myself bass for about a month, and I love it. I have a brief question about amplifying my bass. I've been playing on a used Ibanez SR400. I've been plugging this bass into a Line 6 Spider (30 W) guitar amp. I use the "record out" to plug this amp into my powered mixer. The result does not sound as bad as you might expect, but I know it isn't an optimal setup. This is the amp: http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Line-6-Spider-IV-30-30W-1x12-Guitar-Combo-Amp?sku=620209 This is the mixer: http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/Yamaha-EMX312SC-Powered-Mixer-?sku=630190 These are the speakers: http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/Peavey-PR-12-Loudspeaker?sku=601424 Now. I'm thinking about buying a real bass amp so that I can get a real bass tone. I don't need a whole lot of wattage, because the mixer provides a dual 300W. I'm wondering: what's the cheapest amp that (a) will give me a decent tone, and (b) will be compatible with my mixer? Do I need something with a real "line out" or can I get by with a "record out"? I was looking at the Acoustic B200H. But do I really need a 200W amp if I have a 300W amp behind it?
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Mar 28, 2010 03:07
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Small Talk posted:Greetings. I've been teaching myself bass for about a month, and I love it. I have a brief question about amplifying my bass. I've been playing on a used Ibanez SR400. I've been plugging this bass into a Line 6 Spider (30 W) guitar amp. I use the "record out" to plug this amp into my powered mixer. The result does not sound as bad as you might expect, but I know it isn't an optimal setup. I'm not sure I get the guitar amp in this picture. Is there any reason you haven't been plugging your bass directly into your PA? If you're going to continue to use your PA for your bass then all you really need is something to adjust the EQ for the "bass tone" (config would be bass->EQ->PA). The B200H is kind of a silly option if you aren't going to use it to power a speaker cabinet. A Tech 21 SansAmp Bass Driver pedal would be good if you're just going to use your PA, though it's expensive.
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Mar 28, 2010 05:35
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Bourbon posted:I'm not sure I get the guitar amp in this picture. Is there any reason you haven't been plugging your bass directly into your PA? If you're going to continue to use your PA for your bass then all you really need is something to adjust the EQ for the "bass tone" (config would be bass->EQ->PA). The B200H is kind of a silly option if you aren't going to use it to power a speaker cabinet. A Tech 21 SansAmp Bass Driver pedal would be good if you're just going to use your PA, though it's expensive. I've mainly been using the guitar amp because the instruction manual for my PA said that guitars/basses should be plugged into an appropriate amp before they hit the mixer. I've tested it out though. Plugging the bass directly into the PA reduces the amount of hiss, but I lose the ability to apply distortion/effects. Also, the reverb on the mixer isn't as good as the reverb on the line 6. I will try recording both configurations in order to compare them. That pedal looks like it would do the trick. I wouldn't shell out $200 for it though. Maybe if I could get it used... I forgot to mention, my bass is not an ordinary bass:   I spent my spring break painting it. The process took about 5 days, including planning, sketching, sanding, painting and applying lacquer. I think it turned out nicely  Edit: Is there anything I could achieve with a pedal EQ that I couldn't achieve just by fiddling with the EQ knobs on the bass/mixer? Small Talk fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Mar 28, 2010 |
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Mar 28, 2010 09:34
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I love that paint job, very nice. As far as getting an amp, if you already have a mixer and PA, skip the dedicated bass amp and get a Sansamp VT bass pedal, or some other sansamp pedal like the leeds or whatever. I've never use one myself, but people on talkbass always gush for it. It can be used as a tone shaper pedal in front of an amp, or as a preamp in front of a power amp. I've heard it can be used nicely with effects in front of it, though I'm not really sure. If Scarf pops in this thread, I know he's got one on his pedal board and knows a lot about them.
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Mar 28, 2010 22:24
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Schatten posted:Could still be a grounding issue. Got a local guitar shop? Take your bass in there, along with your cable. Try with your cable, try with theirs, and narrow down where the humming is coming from. Could be the cube, but I usually see this on basses that aren't grounded well. Hey thanks, my batteries finally arrived and the hum/clicking disappeared, so I guess that answers that! There's still some hiss and some weird electronic sounds, and the pickups are... picking up electrical interference (like if I scroll a page on the computer I can hear a whine from the amp) so maybe I need to get things shielded. As a bass newbie I'm loving the bass I'm hearing so many new things in songs too
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Mar 28, 2010 22:55
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