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one look at this thread... and I am reminded my 1980 GS5/650 needs a paint job. and a new wiring harness. drat you gnomad, drat you. There are FOUR lights.
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Mar 22, 2010 06:27
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This is why the "just needs a tune up and a carb clean" is bullshit. And it's amazing what abuse can be handed down, and an engine will still run...
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Mar 22, 2010 06:29
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Z3n posted:And it's amazing what abuse can be handed down, and an engine will still run... Old bikes are awesome for this. I found out that my YDS3 will run just fine with one spark plug completely missing. I'm that guy 
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Mar 22, 2010 12:09
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I've heard retiming the cams is often done on purpose to move the powerband, perhaps that's what has been done with the Z1.
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Mar 22, 2010 12:38
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8ender posted:Old bikes are awesome for this. I found out that my YDS3 will run just fine with one spark plug completely missing. Don't feel bad. I ran my 93 ZX6E without coolant for, oh, 10k miles. See, the problem is that when the guys who ship your new engine bash it against the wall, it has a tendency to bend the brass coolant rail across the front. If you don't notice this, everything seems fine, but when the bike gets hot, it'll slowly drip out coolant. I, of course, didn't notice, because it was only a drip every so often, it ended up on my exhaust, and I was running water with water wetter for track use, so it didn't smell funny. The temp gauge would go higher than my old engine, but the temp gauge never went into the red. I figured it was just an idiosyncrasy between engines.  Those 10k miles included some track time, and a trip to laguna motogp in 110 degree weather. The engine blew the day before a trackday, while I was doing a shakedown run at around 155mph. Sounded like I caught a rock in the fairings, but the engine didn't seize until I'd slowed to around 30mph. 
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Mar 22, 2010 16:36
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Gnomad posted:So, does anyone know a good sealer to use on a head gasket? I believe this clown used bathtub caulk. Threebond Liquid Gasket 1194
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Mar 22, 2010 23:51
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ari.gato posted:Threebond Liquid Gasket 1194 pssst-I was being facetious. You don't use sealer on head gaskets. And as good as that stuff is, it still isn't suitable for head gaskets. It's the shizz for sealing case halves, especially for 2 strokes.
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Mar 23, 2010 03:03
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Gnomad posted:pssst-I was being facetious. You don't use sealer on head gaskets. Oh. Sorry. SO now that it's out there that I didn't know that was for head gaskets, do you put anything down on a head gasket or just place it and bolt the rest on?
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Mar 23, 2010 04:22
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ari.gato posted:Oh. Sorry. SO now that it's out there that I didn't know that was for head gaskets, do you put anything down on a head gasket or just place it and bolt the rest on? Head gaskets are made to work without sealer, most won't hold up to the heat and pressure. Torque them down and you're good to go. In an ideal world, we wouldn't need sealers at all. Real world, sometimes a bit of sealer can help, too much and it's like a harness wrapped in electrical tape, the sign of an amatuer. However, we were all amatuers whe nwe started.
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Mar 23, 2010 07:13
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It's not quite pre 80, but it's 1977 lawnmower tech all the way... My GS650 would do the "very lean" idle climb. The sign of intake leaks all the way. But there were none. The bike wasn't running on all cylinders. Hooking up vacuum guages showed that at idle one cylinder was running full throttle, one was at a few inches of vacuum, the other two were dead shut. Not good... I also discovered that the pilot screws were set at random points between 1.5 and 3.5 turns out. Keep in mind that the "right" setting for a GS is around 1.5 turns out. I also discovered my vacuum guages don't agree with each other. I set myself up a water vacuum guage. They're simple rigs that use plastic tubing hung over a rafter. As a side benifit, the mass of the water makes the readings pretty stable, and because water is fairly light, small vacuum changes make for big changes in collumn height. The end result, is that all my cylinders are synced within 4" of water (from highest to lowest) which is about 1" of mercury, and I'm idling at 4' of water. I'm satisfied. And I don't have the funky idle climb, and it's running on all cylinders. Yey. I'm riding it to work tomorrow.
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Mar 23, 2010 07:49
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Nerobro posted:I set myself up a water vacuum guage. They're simple rigs that use plastic tubing hung over a rafter. As a side benifit, the mass of the water makes the readings pretty stable, and because water is fairly light, small vacuum changes make for big changes in collumn height. Do you mind posting a quick writeup on your water vacuum gauge? Pictures?
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Mar 23, 2010 15:28
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Z3n posted:And it's amazing what abuse can be handed down, and an engine will still run... Amen. I recently opened my right side cover (Honda CA77) to change my clutch cable and found this wonderful mouse nest inside complete with nutshells - I've ridden the bike hundreds of miles like this with no inkling of a problem. 
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Mar 24, 2010 14:45
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I was working on the Z1's head and found that the damage I thought was to the head is actually to the bucket-and there is no shim to be seen in that bucket. The edges are chewed up so I couldn't get a shim in there if I wanted to, so I guess I'll be adding another item to the shopping list. My concern is the missing shim. Did the guy forget to put one there or did it fall out? It doesn't look like it could wander off into the bowels of the engine and yet the concern exists. I truly hope the guy who did this to an innocent bike has been relieved of his tools and forbidden to ever kill again.
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Mar 24, 2010 15:53
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cheesebot posted:Amen. I recently opened my right side cover (Honda CA77) to change my clutch cable and found this wonderful mouse nest inside complete with nutshells - I've ridden the bike hundreds of miles like this with no inkling of a problem. I bet the mouse can't say the same. It has had A LOT of problems.
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Mar 24, 2010 16:39
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It's not as vintage or pretty as some of the others here, but it's pre-1980. 1979 GS750L  Loving these old enduros. I'm thinking about (eventually) picking up an old one to fix up and learn how the hell these things work.
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Mar 29, 2010 14:19
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I rode my 77 CB750K yesterday and I can't believe how freaking slow it is. I've been ignoring the points for several years now and I hear that might be responsible for its lousy performance. Has anyone ever replaced their points with one of those electronic ignition things?
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Mar 31, 2010 14:23
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Crayvex posted:Has anyone ever replaced their points with one of those electronic ignition things? I considered it but decided to stick with points. Reasons: - Points are easy to maintenance if something goes wrong. - If Points go wrong its easy to do some MacGuyver poo poo and get them working. - Points are small enough to carry a spare set around under the seat. - Points are dirt cheap to replace. - Points aren't that hard at all to maintain. All you need is a gap tool. - The quality of aftermarket electronic ignitions seem to be pretty hit and miss based on very unscientific online forum evidence. - All told a bike with a well tuned set of points will have the same performance as one with electronic ignition
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Mar 31, 2010 14:31
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Stupid question, what is a gap tool? Is it the same as feeler gauges?
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Mar 31, 2010 15:03
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Crayvex posted:Stupid question, what is a gap tool? Is it the same as feeler gauges? Yeah sorry, I've always called it a gap tool. Also I forgot one other thing. Points usually still work passably even when they're hideously out of spec or damaged which is another big plus when you're out on a trip and something goes wrong. The last bike I restored ran (like poo poo) even with the points completely covered in crispy black corrosion and the gap set way too wide. 8ender fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Mar 31, 2010 |
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Mar 31, 2010 15:07
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I guess I'll be cleaning the points with a file and checking the gap tonight. Thanks for the info!
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Mar 31, 2010 15:46
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Also, points will continue you spark, although at reduced output, at lower voltages than an electronic ignition. The FrankenBeezer had an aftermarket Boyer ignition at the battery had to be at 12V or above to fire. When you have old Yamaha electricals and Lucas charging, you can't always count on 12V.
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Mar 31, 2010 16:16
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I didn't get a chance to mess with the points but I did take a look at the chain adjusters. Left side was 3.5 notches in while the right was 6.5! Took a little while but I got the chain tension right and the adjusters dead on. Wow the rear wheel rolls like butter now! Hurr, I guess I should have looked at that a while ago.
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Apr 2, 2010 01:51
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Every time I look at my bikes in the garage the odd couple theme goes through my head.
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Apr 2, 2010 02:13
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Crayvex posted:I didn't get a chance to mess with the points but I did take a look at the chain adjusters. Left side was 3.5 notches in while the right was 6.5! Took a little while but I got the chain tension right and the adjusters dead on. Wow the rear wheel rolls like butter now! Hurr, I guess I should have looked at that a while ago. It sounds like you you were pretty far out of whack and got it back reasonable-like. Do keep in mind that the chain marks are not Gospel, some are correct and some aren't quite so precise. I bet that even the worst is less than 3 marks off though! And I dunno about the odd couple. It's evolution in action, dad and lad.
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Apr 2, 2010 03:08
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The marks on the these bikes are supposedly spot on. There's no doubt the wheel rolls easier. It was pulling very badly to the left before the adjustment. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to ride it tonight to see if it is rolling true.
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Apr 2, 2010 03:50
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tubes and 2 rim locks. It's enough to make a guy hate life.
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Apr 4, 2010 18:06
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Finally got a chance to ride the Honda after the chain adjustment. Holy crap, it's like night and day! Previously the bike wasn't rolling right. Now it coasts without an issue. It even seems to have some more balls now. It is still pulling slightly to the left. The chain markers aren't exactly lined up so I'll do it right this time and hopefully this will take care of it. I had my handy gps with me to get an idea of how hosed up my K&L speedo is. The drat thing worked fine for a few rides and now the needle jumps all over the place. At 40 actual mph, it jumps between 30 and 55 mph. I tried a new speedo cable but I think the speedo is shot. I guess I have to swap the old half melted speedo back on. 
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Apr 5, 2010 02:38
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drat leaky old bikes. Spent yesterday trying to fix some carb problems on the KZ that I put off all last season. The first was that the sync was way way off since I had stripped and rebuilt the carbs, the second was that one of the float bowls would leak some gas after a long ride. With the carbs off I found that the sync was indeed ridiculously off, so I bench synced it with some drill bits. Then I found out that one of the floats was set crazy high (26mm versus the others at 22mm). Finally I scrapped the old float bowl gaskets off the bowls and put some new ones on. Bike feels and rides really great now but the drat thing still leaks gas. I can see it leaking out where the float bowl meets the carb on the far left carb, which is the lowest when the bike is on the side stand. Doesn't leak at all on the centre stand. The gaskets were just the standard cardboard gaskets. Any ideas here? Threebond?
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Apr 5, 2010 03:21
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Edit: poo poo, wrong thread.
Slim Pickens fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 5, 2010 06:58
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8ender posted:drat leaky old bikes. Spent yesterday trying to fix some carb problems on the KZ that I put off all last season. The first was that the sync was way way off since I had stripped and rebuilt the carbs, the second was that one of the float bowls would leak some gas after a long ride. First of all, is it leaking when the bike is off? If so, you know your petcock is shot. The number 1 carb on my KZ1000P would occasionally stick and I'd be greeted with a pool of gasoline in the morning. I bought a vacuum petcock repair kit and that took care of it. I'm sure the float was still occasionally getting stuck but at least the petcock kept it from being a safety hazard.
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Apr 5, 2010 12:57
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Crayvex posted:First of all, is it leaking when the bike is off? If so, you know your petcock is shot. It leaks when its off but only a small amount, then it stops. The vacuum petcock is new and works great. I suspect its leaking fuel from that one carb until the fuel level is below the top edge of the float bowl and then stopping. It doesn't leak at all on the centre stand, even with the petcock set to prime.
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Apr 6, 2010 05:20
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8ender posted:It leaks when its off but only a small amount, then it stops. The vacuum petcock is new and works great. I suspect its leaking fuel from that one carb until the fuel level is below the top edge of the float bowl and then stopping. It doesn't leak at all on the centre stand, even with the petcock set to prime. Are the floats all set to the same height? Is it coming out of the overflow?
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Apr 6, 2010 16:50
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8ender posted:It leaks when its off but only a small amount, then it stops. The vacuum petcock is new and works great. I suspect its leaking fuel from that one carb until the fuel level is below the top edge of the float bowl and then stopping. It doesn't leak at all on the centre stand, even with the petcock set to prime. Is it a tiny amount and is it leaking from the float bowl? I mean, that sorta sounds like the float level is so high that the fuel is higher than the gasket when on the side stand. That should be a tiny amount. Otherwise it sounds to me like the float is hanging up slightly when on the side stand. Did you make sure the floats moved freely even when tilted?
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Apr 6, 2010 18:45
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Z3n posted:Are the floats all set to the same height? Is it coming out of the overflow? Yeah same height. Its coming out where the float bowl meets the carb.
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Apr 7, 2010 00:11
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8ender posted:Yeah same height. Its coming out where the float bowl meets the carb. Any chance of a bent/warped float bowl? I've sometimes had luck ghetto repairing poo poo by cleaning things up well and then slathering some RTV on the outside to help it seal. Also, sometimes too much or too little torque on the float bowl bolts can cause it to not seal properly... Z3n fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 00:14
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Where is the best place to find parts for old bikes? I got a 73 Honda CB125 that needs a new ignition coil (besides other things).
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Apr 7, 2010 03:38
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Old Bike Barn is one for most of the wear items at least, their honda OEM parts only go back to 1980 http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Street/1973-Honda-CB125-S-Motorcycle-Parts Edit: Bikebandit has SOME oem parts http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1973-honda-motorcycle-cb125s/o/m9214 Armacham fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 04:26
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I spent a chunk of change tracking down parts on ebay for my '72 CL350, including electrics. Your parts are out there, just few and far between.
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Apr 8, 2010 01:43
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Z3n posted:Any chance of a bent/warped float bowl? Not a bad thought. I'm out of float bowl gaskets but handily I have an entire bag full of float bowls for god knows what reason from the previous owner with gaskets already on them so I'll try one of them and see if the leak goes away or changes.
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Apr 8, 2010 03:35
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Parlett316 posted:Where is the best place to find parts for old bikes? I got a 73 Honda CB125 that needs a new ignition coil (besides other things). Shouldn't be a problem: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=cb125 Edit: Just don't trust everything you see: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-t...sQ5fAccessories Hehe... "2-stroke valve cover" Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Apr 8, 2010 |
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Apr 8, 2010 12:38
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