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wormil posted:Sorry, I haven't been following this discussion but you'll never get that color from shellac. Shellac is a warm amber while your example is a cool brown, closer to walnut. You would need to use either a lacquer finish or a water based poly to maintain that color. Possibly a blonde shellac but I've never actually used blonde so I can't say for sure. I didn't see whether you tested the finish yet but I doubt the finish on that desk is shellac, it's probably lacquer. Glob some stripper on there, scrape off the finish, sand, dye or stain, then finish with a spray lacquer or wipe on poly. That was kind of my thought. They do make ruby and garnet shellac that people have mixed to get some nice browns, as well as powdered pigment you can order and add, but the results are spotty and I also would rather be able to act quickly (ie locally). Edit: Dumped some rubbing alcohol on there for 20 minutes or so and gave 'er a scrape, leaving a nice big white spot. I think full-strength denatured alcohol should do the trick, combined with some sanding, mabye. PipeRifle fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 02:54
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wormil posted:Christ, what utter nonsense. 2x4s are a building material. One of the most defect prone building materials known to man, yes. Wood that is too lovely to be 2 x 6's, 8's, 10's, and 12's ends up as 2x4's. wormil posted:That's alright, we disagree all the time. To expand upon my comments, 2x4 is just a size of lumber used for building material. 2x4s come in different grades and species. So comments like his last night don't make sense and confuse people, hence it provokes questions just as nonsensical. No offense. It's like asking which is better, an 8 penny nail or a 16 penny nail; well it depends on what you want to do with it. "2x4" is jargon for "Stud grade 2x4" which is the incredibly defect prone stuff. While many grades of wood can be nominally dimensioned and sold in a 2x4 format, few ever are. A higher grade log is going to be sawn for larger boards where the sawyer can make more money. The price and ubiquity of the 2x4 comes from two things: 1. fast growing plantation trees have a lot of defects, and 2. sawing a round tree into rectangular boards leaves you with a whole bunch of smaller boards once you have cut out the bigger boards. 2x4 framing lets everyone take advantage of these inefficiencies. I recommend against using 2x4's as the stock lumber for any furniture project because of the number of defects found in 2x4 studs commonly sold at big box stores. I feel that the incredibly small price increase to 2x8 - 2x12 SYP is less than negligible when compared to the advantages of fewer defects, increased strength and stiffness, and better appearance. Example why wider boards are better: Lets say you are in a big box hardware store and you fine two boards, one is a 2x12, one is a 2x4, both are nice clear straight boards, except both of them have a waney edge that will need to be ripped off in order to use the board for your intended purpose. Lets say this rip is .5", and lets say that the boards are actually their stated size (they are not). The 2x4 will cause you to rip the board to 2x3.5 and the 2x12 will cause you to rip it to 2x11.5. Now which board lost a larger percentage of its total mass? The waney edge example is of course one of the more obvious cases in favor of the wider board. The other huge one in my book is the incredibly reduced amount of twist within the wider stock. Although my favorite advantage is when I can find a tight grained SYP board that has been plainsawn near the middle of the tree, I basically get two 2x5's that are quartersawn for the cost of construction lumber. While QS boards are inherently more stable, with softwoods the difference tends to be more pronounced. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 05:14
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FYI, if I'm using 2x4s in a cabinet, it isn't going to be something where I worry about a little wane. And I'm really not going to worry about a little wane on the inside of my interior wall. Yes, there are lovely 2x4s in big box stores but even my Home Depot carries #1 and stud grade you just have to look beyond the big pile of spf white lumber in the front of the store. There is nothing wrong with using framing lumber in certain applications, especially in framing.
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Mar 24, 2010 06:20
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Anybody here have any first hand experience with Grizzly woodworking machinery?
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Mar 24, 2010 14:34
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I have a Grizzly G1148 15" bandsaw, but I don't have any experience with any other bandsaws. I guess I could tell you what I know about that particular model, but if you wanted to know how it compares to a similar Delta or Jet saw, I don't have the experience to give a well informed opinion. Edit: To be honest, I don't really use it that much, so my bandsaw expertise is overall pretty low. It seems like a solidly built machine and I haven't had any mechanical problems with it at all. I certainly don't have anything bad to say about it and wouldn't be inclined to tell people to avoid Grizzly tools. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 16:58
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For the love of God, sign up for the Grizzly catalog. It's like 800 pages of tool porn. I have their desktop belt sander and it does what it's supposed to. I think that's the brand I'm going with when I get a table saw and a lathe, too. I'm about as ambivalent as Skunkduster on the subject, I guess.
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Mar 24, 2010 17:20
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wormil posted:Glob some stripper on there, scrape off the finish, sand, dye or stain, then finish with a spray lacquer or wipe on poly. Does staining after stripping work pretty well with lacquer? I've never used it. If it was shellac, the alcohol wouldn't exactly "strip" it, but "thin" it. You know my thoughts on stain so, needless to say, I have no experience. I'm just wondering if you can completely strip off a lacquer finish using solvents. In the scenario in my head, I'm imagining the result of stripping shellac would leave behind some shellac over the entire surface. Once it is "stripped", it would look good, but there would still be a lot of variance in the amount of shellac left on the surface which would have a huge impact on stain absorption. I guess I'm asking if you have ever tried stripping shellac and what your results were, and the same for lacquer.
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Mar 24, 2010 17:25
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dv6speed posted:Anybody here have any first hand experience with Grizzly woodworking machinery? Ahem.  I've yet to have a problem. It's pretty much the way to go in the "affordable" range. Other than used or old iron, of course.
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Mar 24, 2010 18:09
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ChaoticSeven posted:Ahem. You need a roommate, right? When can I move in?
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Mar 24, 2010 18:14
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ChaoticSeven posted:Ahem. I'm assuming your drill press is not shown in this picture? I mean, you do have a drill press, right?
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Mar 24, 2010 18:19
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 Not rust on the column, wood dust.  Pew Pew 
ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 18:20
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That's an absolutely fantastic shop. I'm stuck with a tiny basement, but 100 years worth of great family tools.
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Mar 24, 2010 18:43
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SkunkDuster posted:I guess I'm asking if you have ever tried stripping shellac and what your results were, and the same for lacquer. I have stripped furniture where the finish was either lacquer or varnish, I wasn't sure I just know it wasn't shellac because I tested it with alcohol. The stripper will take off most of the finish but you'll have to sand it down afterward. It's been a long time since I've refinished anything, there are tons of new strippers available now.
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Mar 24, 2010 19:51
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wormil posted:There is nothing wrong with using framing lumber in certain applications, especially in framing. SYP 2x12's are framing lumber, they are just better framing lumber. Today at HD, whitewood 2x4 studs were 2.96, a 2x12 syp board of the same length was 9.24. So for the cost of 36 cents and two rips on your saw of choice, you have three far better boards than if you had bought the stud lumber.
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Mar 24, 2010 20:18
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GEMorris posted:SYP 2x12's are framing lumber, they are just better framing lumber. Today at HD, whitewood 2x4 studs were 2.96, a 2x12 syp board of the same length was 9.24. So for the cost of 36 cents and two rips on your saw of choice, you have three far better boards than if you had bought the stud lumber. I don't want to pick on the guy but if he can't cut a few half-laps, he'll never rip 2x12 boards either. And there is still nothing wrong with using 2x4s in certain applications.
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Mar 24, 2010 20:44
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GEMorris posted:Today at HD, whitewood 2x4 studs were 2.96, a 2x12 syp board of the same length was 9.24. This is only somewhat related, but if you have a Menard's in your area, go there for lumber. In my experience, Menard's has proven to be consistently cheaper and higher quality, at least in that regard. Their tool selection is often lovely, but I can get select grade 2x4's for <$2. They'll be straight and true, and virtually knot-free. HD and Lowe's, on the other hand, likes to charge 50 cents to $1 more for lower quality lumber.
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Mar 24, 2010 20:53
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Bad Munki posted:This is only somewhat related, but if you have a Menard's in your area, go there for lumber. In my experience, Menard's has proven to be consistently cheaper and higher quality, at least in that regard. Their tool selection is often lovely, but I can get select grade 2x4's for <$2. They'll be straight and true, and virtually knot-free. HD and Lowe's, on the other hand, likes to charge 50 cents to $1 more for lower quality lumber. Havent seen a Menards since I left Kenosha in my rearview mirror. I do wish we had them down here in NC though. IMHO it takes three players to offer any real market competition. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Mar 24, 2010 |
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Mar 24, 2010 22:15
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GEMorris posted:Havent seen a Menards since I left Kenosha in my rearview mirror. I do wish we had them down here in NC though. IMHO it takes three players to offer any real market competition. As if there were any appreciable difference between Lowe's and Home Depot anyhow  (Aside from Lowe's having bilingual signs)
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Mar 24, 2010 22:24
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dv6speed posted:Anybody here have any first hand experience with Grizzly woodworking machinery? ChaoticSeven covered it pretty well, but I'll throw in my experience. I've got an old 15" Grizzly planer, it's the style with the motor mounted on top. When we first got it, we had a hell of a time keeping the belts from slipping. Eventually we got it tight enough that it's not a problem, but it could definitely use a little more power. It's not that difficult to stall it out if you try and hog off a bunch of material at once. Their 15" planers now are more powerful and may not have that problem. Honestly, as much as I swear at it when it stalls, it's been a great planer and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Grizzly tool.
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Mar 24, 2010 23:35
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Just picked up a beautiful piece of 4/4x12"x8' Walnut to make a fancy spice rack for the wall and now I realize that the door opens to that wall and it won't work.  Any ideas for a little walnut project? I was thinking remote control holder.
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Mar 25, 2010 00:13
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What's the best way to glue wood together in a checkerboard pattern? I've seen such things where you basically cut square boards, glue them together to make a wide striped board, and then slice off pieces at the end to make an alternating-colored strip, which you can then lay flat and glue side-by-side to a base. Is that pretty much it, or is there some better way? I would be doing this on a larger scale (much larger than a checkerboard) and so want to be as effective as possible, while still maintaining accuracy.
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Mar 25, 2010 01:06
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Bad Munki posted:What's the best way to glue wood together in a checkerboard pattern? I've seen such things where you basically cut square boards, glue them together to make a wide striped board, and then slice off pieces at the end to make an alternating-colored strip, which you can then lay flat and glue side-by-side to a base. Is that pretty much it, or is there some better way? That's pretty much it. My brother-in-law makes checkerboards from scraps of corian once he is done with a countertop job.
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Mar 25, 2010 02:20
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Only marginally related and not at all the project I had in mind, but it could be kind of neat to get some aromatic red cedar and make a red/white checkerboard from that one wood. Bonus wood be a complete lack of worry about different properties between the colors. Throw some danish oil or shellac on there and it'd be awful purty. 
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Mar 25, 2010 02:24
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Bad Munki posted:As if there were any appreciable difference between Lowe's and Home Depot anyhow I find Lowes to be more logically organized but otherwise, not really.
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Mar 25, 2010 05:07
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wormil posted:I find Lowes to be more logically organized but otherwise, not really. Fair enough, but on the same note, Home Depots (at least in my experience) are more consistently laid out between stores. I've gone to HD's in different cities and I can generally walk straight to what I want. At least, that used to be the case while I was still going there frequently. However, we have at least a couple Lowe's here in Des Moines and they are both organized completely differently. Throws me for a loop every time. The only gripe I have with Lowe's is their support of the kreg supplies. One of them in town carries the pocket hole screws, the other doesn't even know what they are. And the one that does carry it stores them somewhere around paint, no less than 3 aisles away from any other fasteners...  How much setup does it take to do some basic bending of wood? Like for curving pieces for chair legs/backs and such.
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Mar 25, 2010 06:18
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Bad Munki posted:How much setup does it take to do some basic bending of wood? Like for curving pieces for chair legs/backs and such. I think GE is your guy on that one. Luckily I have a woodworking store nearby so I don't need Lowes or HD except for basic supplies.
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Mar 25, 2010 06:38
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Yeah, I get almost all my stuff from a local place called the woodsmith store. Their website is almost worse than useless but their customer service is amazing and their actual physical store is great. I love it there. A little disappointed, though, now that it seems their markup on wood is a bit over the top. Really, I can actually get, say, maple cheaper from menard's or lowes. I'm talking that shrinkwrapped poo poo. It's nuts.
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Mar 25, 2010 06:54
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Bad Munki posted:How much setup does it take to do some basic bending of wood? Like for curving pieces for chair legs/backs and such. Laminating or autoclaving?
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Mar 25, 2010 14:56
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I dunno, you tell me. I was thinking solid woods, so whatever that means. I guess not laminating. v  v
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Mar 25, 2010 15:32
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The easier way, in my opinion, is lamination. you just re-saw the boards into strips and apply the strips to a form with glue between each. On the autoclave side you need to build the apparatus, which is a vessel in which you steam the wood to make it more malleable. Here is an idea on how to make a form. In tropical Blue - 1/2 - 3/4" sheet good Taupe - Spacer scrap wood. This it so that the form will be the width of the piece you're forming Pink - Clamps! Orange - Workpiece  You can see that the holes aren't anything fancy, just to help clamp the piece. Barn Owl fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 16:49
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How tight of a bend per thickness can one get away with doing such a thing? I guess some of that would depend on the thickness at which you resaw... Damnit, now I really need a bandsaw.
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Mar 25, 2010 17:02
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I'm looking to try my hand at some basic cabinet making, and I think my first purchase should be a new table saw. I've got a lovely $100 Black and Decker, and that's simply not going to do it. Does anyone have an opinion about the Bosch 4100-09 worksite saw? I know a contractor saw or cabinet saw would be ideal, but I simply do not have the space to store or use a stationary saw. The Bosch seems to be the best-in-class for portable table saws. Any other options or alternatives?
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Mar 25, 2010 20:30
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wormil posted:I find Lowes to be more logically organized but otherwise, not really.
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Mar 26, 2010 05:21
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Bad Munki posted:
Do you want to bend solid wood (steam) or laminate veneers? Do you want to laminate veneers in a narrow strip (chair/table arms/legs etc) or a panel (seat pans/backs)? This is a whole world unto itself, thin strips are best laminated on two part molds with a pressure bag inside, look of bowmaking for a general idea. Barnowl's graphic gets the general concept across, except if you don't have support on the outside of the part, you are going to get nice tight glueups where the clamps contact the piece, and gaps where the clamps aren't. Panels like seats and backs are best laminated on a one part mold in a vacuum bag. Bad Munki posted:How tight of a bend per thickness can one get away with doing such a thing? I guess some of that would depend on the thickness at which you resaw... I've done 1 1/4" radii with about a 50% success rate. Thickness is only part of the story, species plays a big role. Bad Munki posted:Damnit, now I really need a bandsaw. Dude, everyone always needs a bandsaw. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 05:49
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ibpooks posted:I'm looking to try my hand at some basic cabinet making, and I think my first purchase should be a new table saw. I've got a lovely $100 Black and Decker, and that's simply not going to do it. a. You have space problems + b. You dont seem to be fearful of spending money = c. buy a Festool Track Saw
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Mar 26, 2010 05:51
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GEMorris posted:a. You have space problems Just to show we don't always disagree, I agree with this. Those portable saws are probably useful for a housing contractor but I don't think they are that useful for a cabinetmaker. And for Hell if I can taper table legs with a circular saw, you don't need no stinking tablesaw. Although I'm a little surprised GE didn't recommend a bandsaw.
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Mar 26, 2010 06:02
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GEMorris posted:a. You have space problems They're 10% off at Woodcraft starting next month too. Festool stuff hardly ever goes on sale. I think it might actually be a Festool sale since I saw a Festool flier advertising it in addition to the Woodcraft ad I got in the mail the other day.
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Mar 26, 2010 11:22
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GEMorris posted:Dude, everyone always needs a bandsaw. I've known this for a while. However, when I really came to the decision to actually get one (i.e. I had done enough spring cleaning in the garage to fit one) I'd already spent more than enough money on a table saw, planer, router, etc. I think I've successfully convinced my wife I should be allowed to get one for my birthday, though. All I had to do was explain resawing, and then show her the discount lumber bin. Lots of short/overly-thick pieces, at great prices, many of them impressively figured. Looking forward to that.  In other news, it's quite nearly the weekend. Anyone got any shop plans? I'm going to glue up and finish a little bookshelf I made, and I'd like to finish a curly maple/walnut box I started a little while ago. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 15:41
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GEMorris posted:a. You have space problems a. Definitely have space problems -- single car garage already lined with storage that still needs to be used for parking in the winter. All the tools need to be collapsible or storable along the perimeter. b. Within reason. I understand that quality costs money, but want to make sure I'm getting the most versatile tools for the money. c. Those look pretty interesting, although the price tag is a bit of a  for what seems to be nothing more than a circular saw and a piece of machined aluminum. At least if I dropped $1,200 on a contractor saw I'd get a couple HP motor and 200 lbs of cast iron. Are there other brands of track saw that aren't so expensive or am I looking as the Festool stuff wrong? It seems like the "entry level" is this kit. I feel like with all the parts available, I must be missing some components to get a useful tool.I can see the advantage when working with sheet goods, but does the track saw work as well with ripping dimensional and other small pieces? ibpooks fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 26, 2010 16:47
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I've been looking at getting the eurekazone ez-smart track rather than the festool tracksaw. You just buy the track and attach your circular saw to their saw base (which rides on the track, of course). It looks pretty well thought out to me, and is quite a bit cheaper than the festool tracksaw The company has entire system going on, the track kits can be found here.
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Mar 26, 2010 19:11
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