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kid sinister posted:To drill into tile, you need (big surprise) a tile bit! You can also use a masonry bit, but that's a little harder to use since you need to worry about the tip walking off the point you set it on. You can use a center punch and a light tap with a hammer to make a 'dimple' to keep the bit from walking, but most people are leery about taking a hammer and basically a big nail to their tile... Yeah, I've just never drilled into tile/used a tile bit, and I don't know what the odds of me loving it up are. I am sure the wife would not be happy with me if I cracked the tiles. I have no idea what type of tile it is, how it is installed, or anything like that. Two story house, bathroom is on the lower level, and it has a crawl space. So I guess I don't have to worry about hitting cement?
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Mar 15, 2010 18:14
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Associate Christ
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When drilling tile, they only crack or chip if you're drilling near the edge of one, or if you press on the drill too hard. Either way, you will be setting something on top of that spot, so you should be fine. Just take it slow and let the bit do the work. In houses they sometimes spread a thin layer of cement 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick to level out the floor so they can install the tile and have it be flat. If it's fairly thick you might want to attach into that with appropriate anchors, otherwise use a masonry bit bigger than your screw to go through that and then use a big screw or lag bolt to screw directly into the wood subfloor (don't overtighten!) kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Mar 15, 2010 |
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Mar 15, 2010 23:51
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If you are concerned because you've never drilled tile before, go buy a $0.99 tile and drill a few holes in it. You now have experience drilling tile.
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Mar 16, 2010 00:15
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I have a propane fired water heater that as far as I know, is 20 years old. I noticed tonight that we ran out of hot water very quickly. I went to check the pilot, as it's been known to blow out in the past. Come to find out that the burner is going, but even with the outer cover on, the flame is bright yellow. Removing the outer cover plate and opening the spring-loaded door result in a normal blue flame. Tips? If this thing can be salvaged, I'd really prefer it over replacing the unit at this point due to financial reasons.
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Mar 16, 2010 01:53
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Richard Noggin posted:I have a propane fired water heater that as far as I know, is 20 years old. I noticed tonight that we ran out of hot water very quickly. I went to check the pilot, as it's been known to blow out in the past. Come to find out that the burner is going, but even with the outer cover on, the flame is bright yellow. Removing the outer cover plate and opening the spring-loaded door result in a normal blue flame. Tips? If this thing can be salvaged, I'd really prefer it over replacing the unit at this point due to financial reasons. There is something blocking the little tiny holes to let air in. That is why the flame is burning yellow until you open up the burner door. I haven't ever had to unclog those but i'd try vacuuming out any dust you can in there. Then blowing it out with a compressed air.
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Mar 16, 2010 01:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:There is something blocking the little tiny holes to let air in. That is why the flame is burning yellow until you open up the burner door. I haven't ever had to unclog those but i'd try vacuuming out any dust you can in there. Then blowing it out with a compressed air. I have had to open the tiny little holes. Remove the burner assembly, wire brush it, blow it out with compressed air, replace.
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Mar 16, 2010 03:47
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I have had to open the tiny little holes. Remove the burner assembly, wire brush it, blow it out with compressed air, replace. From how my boss explained it. The holes are in the water heater. Along the walls of the burner door i think Though design can change from water heater.
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Mar 16, 2010 04:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:From how my boss explained it. The holes are in the water heater. Along the walls of the burner door i think Though design can change from water heater. That's possible, but with it burning yellow, now the gas holes have carbon in them so even after the screen is cleaned, the burner needs to be cleaned as well. And a carbon monoxide detector installed somewhere close by.
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Mar 16, 2010 13:30
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I am dealing with CPVC in a little basement finishing project and have a few questions. What is the preferred cement? My contractor doing the building work says he has been told the yellow one step provides a longer lasting repair, whereas the purple primer/orange glue is generally used for low pressure applications. Which glue is best for my home cold/hot water pipes? For CPVC connections is a specific cleaner fluid required to clean the connection before using primer or one-step cement? Or will a clean towel (shirt) wiped around the joint fittings work? What is considered a "heat source" when going by the 12" space rule. I just realized I moved my entire piping 12" closer to my furnace air outlet duct to gain more space in a room I am building. Its not touching, but it will be 1/2" to 1" away. I understand that you shouldnt have it near flues and light assemblies since they can easily reach 250-300F+, but is my air duct ever going to be a risk? Should I insulate or even be concerned about this? I am probably getting overly paranoid about all of this but I really dont want a hosed up water pipe months or years down the line dumping water into my soon to be newly finished basement. I also can't keep redoing some of these connections because at a point I will have lost all usable slack on the pipe cutting away bad joints to redo them. Soon I would have to cut into the floor to gain access to more pipe  . I have probably moved this drat line or parts of it 3 times now.For reference: old  new 
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Mar 18, 2010 19:30
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dietcokefiend posted:I am dealing with CPVC in a little basement finishing project and have a few questions. I would use the one step glue, it is what every plumber know uses. Ive only seen the two step used if its low pressure applications. You can wipe and clean your fittings with cloth or sandscreen or brillo pad if you wanna go overboard. You are fine with your water pipes next to the ducts them self. The air is no where as warm as what travels through a flue. Though why did you choose to do cpvc? That stuff is bad news, it gets brittle in like 10 years and causes issues. Also i'd suggest deburring your pipe so it doesn't cause a venturing in the pipe which will erode the pipe quicker.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:21
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I would use the one step glue, it is what every plumber know uses. Ive only seen the two step used if its low pressure applications. Ok so yellow glue stuff it is! Just wanted to verify on that front. I figured as much but still wanted to make sure. CPVC is just what the house has. It is new construction and used throughout the entire house. I bought it as a prebuilt market home.. no choice in the pipe selection. If I am in the house long enough for it to be a problem I will replumb with pex or something. Can you even get burrs with a ratcheting knife cutter? All my cuts feel smooth.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:30
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dietcokefiend posted:Ok so yellow glue stuff it is! It may get a slight burr on the inside of the pipe depending on how sharp your cutters are. The only reason i suggested it was when cpvc first came out. The manufacture suggested it or they wouldnt hold up there warrenty.
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Mar 18, 2010 20:34
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What is the purpose of this stuff http://www.oatey.com/Plumber/Shared/ProductGroupDetail/802/Clear+Cleaner.html Its not a primer, only used to prep the material for bonding through means of cleaning. Does anyone use it? Being the anal person that I am I just want to make sure a smudge or some crap wont gently caress up a joint 5 years from now.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:46
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dietcokefiend posted:What is the purpose of this stuff That is basicly a form of primer. Since primer is a cleaner in a sense. On pvc most inspectors don't want clear primer because they cant tell if you used it or not. I wouldn't worry about it in your case. You should be fine.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:49
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Sounds good. One last two questions My knife has been getting duller and duller so I will probably get something else. Should I pickup one of those spinning cutters with a plastic blade? Also to make sure nothing is cut short what is the optimal amount of time after I setup the pieces until I turn the water back on? I will be doing this starting tomorrow night and could technically let it for for a day or more since I dont have to shower for work
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Mar 19, 2010 02:06
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dietcokefiend posted:Sounds good. One last two questions Ya one of those cheap spinning pipe reamers will suffice. And it will be alot quicker then a pocket knife. Watch your fore arms and dont stab yourself with it. A couple hours and you should be good to turn the water back on but if you wanna go 24 hrs it wont hurt anything.
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Mar 19, 2010 03:26
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On a side note how hosed am I with CPVC ?  All I hear about it online is how terrible it is which is pretty concerning. I really dont want my house getting hosed up from some misc bullshit relating to the pipe material of all things.
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Mar 19, 2010 04:32
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dietcokefiend posted:On a side note how hosed am I with CPVC ? The only cpvc ive dealt with was 15 years old and its on an apartment complex. About once a month we're there finding leaks in random units. There is over 100 units and we rarely visit once twice but leaks still occur near fittings.
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Mar 19, 2010 17:00
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This summer I'm planning on converting my house to a natural gas boiler (the original coal/oil burning boiler is there presently). There is already natural gas in the house, and not far from the existing boiler (the water heater uses it). I'm trying to figure out a rough estimation of what I can expect a plumber to charge me to install a new unit. Anyone have any experience with this? For kicks, here's the monster in question:  Click here for the full 604x453 image.
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Mar 19, 2010 20:37
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There is so many variants. Is the gas line properly sized for the new boiler? Is there enough make up air for the new high efficent boiler? What added parts will be needed to bring it up to code. The exhaust for the boiler may have to be re run, depending on manufactures specifications. I'm guessing off hand it will be a couple grand depending on what boiler you get and what all needs to be done.
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Mar 19, 2010 23:23
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I think I finally have my entire basement replumbed. Doing final checks to make sure hot/cold are where they should be and I didnt cross any lines. I am going to be doing probably 20-25 joints tomorrow since right now even hours after I cut the old pipe off the drat things are still dripping slightly. Hoping that overnight will be enough to get them dry for gluing. How important is the twisting stage for the bonding process. There are some connectors where I might not be able to twist them as they go on just because of the other pipes connected. Is the process to make sure the glue is evenly distributed and coating all segments, or is it more of a thing to mix the melted plastic/bonding material?
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Mar 20, 2010 02:48
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dietcokefiend posted:I think I finally have my entire basement replumbed. Doing final checks to make sure hot/cold are where they should be and I didnt cross any lines. Twist joints when you can since it does distribute the glue metter and make sure there is no voids. Also you applying glue to the pipe and fitting right?
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Mar 20, 2010 02:56
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Twist joints when you can since it does distribute the glue metter and make sure there is no voids. Yup and this time around I am being careful about excess inside the fitting. My first gen joints a week ago were a bit hosed. When I took the entire plumbing system in my basement down I noticed one or two joints where the glue was obstructing the water path. Now its dab the swab on the can lid edge to take off the excess, wipe around the pipe 3-4 times, wipe inside the joint, press together. EDIT: to clean or not to clean with that cleaner fluid. I picked some up to play with so I have it on hand.... will it hurt anything? Could it increase my chances for a better joint?
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Mar 20, 2010 03:12
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I dont know about the cleaner fluid. I have never used it. I have never installed cpvc for use with potable water. And if i have to adapt to cpvc i use a shark bite fitting.
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Mar 20, 2010 03:58
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Fffffffuck I do not feel good at all. Decided to individual clean every single joint with pieces carefully balancing on other pieces. In the process I think I inhaled way too much of that Oatey poo poo. Calling it a night... pipe still dripping like some deviled cursed crap and god damnit I flushed one of my three toilets for only a #1. Might steal a neighbors hose to fill the tank up to take a dump tomorrow if it doesnt look like I will finish in time. That or I drive into work to do my business.
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Mar 20, 2010 06:18
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Update on my sewer gas smell. I snaked all three vents this afternoon. When I pulled the snake from the vent over the kitchen, it came out with hair and something brown and disgusting all over it. I pushed the whole 25' snake down there and if the vent was clogged I couldn't tell but there was definitely some nastiness down there deep. Afterward I ran the dishwasher and didn't smell anything but I'm going to wait a few more days before declaring victory.
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Mar 21, 2010 05:15
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Dietcokefiend i suggest opening a window when you are around the glue next time. Nice job wormill, knock on wood of course. Cause i dont want to jinx you.
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Mar 21, 2010 09:57
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Dietcokefiend i suggest opening a window when you are around the glue next time. Is it the same way with plumbing?
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Mar 21, 2010 11:44
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Working with the acetone was kind of fun... until the 14 hour headache set in. I wear a respirator with stacked Organic Vapor and P100 filters now, ventilation wasn't enough.
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Mar 21, 2010 12:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Dietcokefiend i suggest opening a window when you are around the glue next time. I had a sliding glass basement door open and a huge window open. The poo poo is lighter than air and my head was up in floor joists.  I can piss and poo poo again AND flush my toilets. I let the glue set for about 24 hours this time to cover all my bases. I ended up calling it a night Friday/Saturday at 8am with all but a few joints left. The following morning (3-4pm) I dried off the remaining drip or two from the 2nd story vertical pipes and glued the remaining preformed joints in place.I dont know what it is but I feel a huge sense of satisfaction about this whole deal. I will have to take some pictures later today but basically I completely redid my basement or roughly 60% of the pipe in my house. Instead of having wavy lines or pipes in stupid places I have clean, tight lines and perfect organization. Oh and a few things I realized along the way: 1. Running water... holy poo poo full two days without it is something else. I had to fill a bucket with water to flush my crap; so not cool. 2. No showers in over the span of a weekend makes ya stink. 3. Always buy way more pipe and joints than you think is required. Over the span of 30 or so joints anything that looked like it might not be optimal was discarded and a new piece of pipe and joint was used. Oh and since I was dealing with CPVC that was 4 years old at this point I did some destruction tests on everything. Old pipe still very flexible. Joint strength was high even under the impacts from a 5lb sledge.
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Mar 21, 2010 18:01
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Grover the glue just makes the job more enjoyable. No actually i dont even notice working with abs glue in a crawl space. Dietcokefiend congrats on finally completing it.
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Mar 21, 2010 18:25
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Original. 12" spaced from the ductwork. 12" closer to the ductwork, but still stuck down in the area after the duct had ended. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Mar 6, 2014 |
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Mar 21, 2010 19:36
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Nice dietcokefiend. It looks like you did a decent job.and by the looks of it you didnt drill the Joist in bad location.
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Mar 21, 2010 19:59
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Toilet plumbing question: This weekend, I heard drain burping coming from my apartment bathroom so I went in to see what was up. The burping had stopped before I reached the bathroom, however I heard a faint fizzing noise; so I played a little game of find the sound. I eventually pinpointed the sound to a panel on the base of the toilet bowl which covers a bolt (that I assume holds the toilet to the floor). White bubbles, which looked kind of like soap suds, were enveloping the panel. Do the bubbles mean the wax ring between the toilet and the floor is failing? Is it something I need to bother the property maintenance about or is it just some other tenant playing chemistry volcano with their toilet?
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Mar 23, 2010 07:10
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Hank Killinger posted:Toilet plumbing question: This weekend, I heard drain burping coming from my apartment bathroom so I went in to see what was up. The burping had stopped before I reached the bathroom, however I heard a faint fizzing noise; so I played a little game of find the sound. I eventually pinpointed the sound to a panel on the base of the toilet bowl which covers a bolt (that I assume holds the toilet to the floor). White bubbles, which looked kind of like soap suds, were enveloping the panel. grover fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Mar 23, 2010 |
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Mar 23, 2010 14:07
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grover posted:Wax rings aren't intended to be an airtight pressure seal. Does your toilet ever burp or bubble when your neighbor flushes or your neighbor's washing machine drains? And evidence of this in your shower drain? Might be a partial clog in the pipe allowing water to back up, and your toilet seal is the lowest point.
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Mar 24, 2010 00:29
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Hank Killinger posted:Thanks for the reply. Nope the burp isn't a recurring issue, so I'm hoping whatever caused the odd event was fixed or was an effect of a fix implemented elsewhere. I'm on the bottom floor (of three), so I guess that means the pressure at my level is the highest. The pressure at your level isnt the really that much higher. Water gains 0.434 LBS per foot of drop. Well round that up to .5 lbs to make it easier. So lets say in 30 ft the pressure would differ 15 psi if there was standing perfectly vertical. It sounds like the white sudds were coming from a suds producing fixture. (clothes washer,dishwasher, etc) If the toilet drain line is plumbed to close to a washing machine then suds can come back up when the CW is draining. The gurgling is most likely caused by a blockage in the pipe. It couldn't hurt to have a snake run through it. I would alert maintenance that suds are coming up from your toilet.
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Mar 24, 2010 00:56
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The pressure at your level isnt the really that much higher. Water gains 0.434 LBS per foot of drop. Well round that up to .5 lbs to make it easier. So lets say in 30 ft the pressure would differ 15 psi if there was standing perfectly vertical. Ah, these apartments do have cloth and dish washers in each unit, so that's a good point; Also, people tend to take care of those chores on the weekend. I'll definitely give the maintenance a call.
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Mar 24, 2010 01:05
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I suppose this is a "plumbing" question still. My dad has a yard hydrant that was leaking pretty badly until I pulled out the rod today and replaced the rubber plunger at the bottom. However, upon putting it back together, I cannot adjust the handle attachment to the rod so that the water siphons back down the weep hole like it's supposed to. Any ideas?
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Mar 25, 2010 03:51
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No ideas yet. Post a picture so i have something to work with.
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Mar 25, 2010 04:24
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