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okay, i think i just put that old car out of it's misery. i put the needle at the factory settings, got it going and then it just revved out of control. i should've read up on how to stop it (blocked the exhaust and got it to stop that way) i think the piston's busted or someting similar, at least it wont crank. it may have run too lean. but drat it sounded awesome for the one whole minute it did run
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Mar 18, 2010 17:30
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Frobbe posted:in other news, i traded my TT-01E for a Walkera Dragonfly 60B (apparently the B stands for brushless?) Nice trade, a belt driven CP.  Is this your first CP? That or a Trex 450 would be my next purchase if I can make my Walkera hover for a little.. I'd then have an heli to have fun outside and one to have fun inside / in gyms. I followed Radd's school for my first 10 batteries and felt a lot more confident but I still have a way to go before I feel confident.On similar note, I'm still waiting on pieces to fix my Walkera 4g3 (and upgrade it to brushless).  That hobby is addictive as poo poo.
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Mar 18, 2010 18:03
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what's a CP? yeah, this is my first helicopter, so i am going to be very, very careful with it. the good news are that i have one extra battery for it along with the one the seller is giving me, so that's cool. any recommended resources on this helicopter?
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Mar 18, 2010 18:24
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CP is collective pitch, it [basically] means you can fly 3d with it (but there's a switch on the TX to make it 2d, I recommend you start with that). Whereas a Fixed pitch (FP) heli can only fly upright. In 3d mode, your CP's rotors will always be turning full speed with the throttle stick / swash plate in the middle, not generating lift or push. When you push the throttle stick up, it moves the swash plate up and push up the blade, generating lift. When you pull on the throttle stick, the blade are pushed back and it make them push the air up. I'm not a very good teacher but that's the gist of it. Get a simulator like RealFlight (PM me for that) ASAP. It will save you a bundle when learning. The dude in these videos have a tendancy to be an annoying rambler at times but he has a lot of good tips. Basically you want your servo at 90 degree from the body with your stick in the middle and also have the swash plate level. Be warned that the CP will be a lot more finnicky than a FP heli to setup and you can't just say whatever and take off, it will hurt the gently caress out of you or someone. Learn to throttle down before crash, you will be doing a lot less damage to your heli that way. Get extra blades (like, a lot of them) for your heli and a set of spare parts because waiting for them is annoying. (ask me how I know :P) Get a training gear but ditch it as soon as you can (when you're comfortable) because it makes the heli bottom heavy and different in the way it react. http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html <- Do this, even if it look boring during the first 3 batteries you will learn a lot from it. Uh, sorry for the wall of text. Feel free to ask any question, I'll do my best to answer even though I'm no expert. I believe there's a few other Heli flyers here. BTW it's an hard heli to learn on, I'd suggest you pick a flite MSR to get the basics down and resell it when you get bored with it. the mSR is a fixed pitch heli and your LHS should have plenty of spare part for them. IsaacNewton fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 18, 2010 |
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Mar 18, 2010 18:50
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Frobbe posted:okay, i think i just put that old car out of it's misery. i put the needle at the factory settings, got it going and then it just revved out of control. i should've read up on how to stop it (blocked the exhaust and got it to stop that way) i think the piston's busted or someting similar, at least it wont crank. it may have run too lean. It's probably flooded. Disconnect the fuel line and the backpressure line on the muffler. Then pull the glowplug and crank it while holding it upside down.
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Mar 18, 2010 19:02
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IsaacNewton posted:BTW it's an hard heli to learn on, I'd suggest you pick a flite MSR to get the basics down and resell it when you get bored with it. the mSR is a fixed pitch heli and your LHS should have plenty of spare part for them. Will do as soon as i have money. the local hobby store sells them for around 89 euros, which i believe is quite cheap! kuffs posted:It's probably flooded. Disconnect the fuel line and the backpressure line on the muffler. Then pull the glowplug and crank it while holding it upside down. Oh, gonna try that saturday then! when i am on an old carpark nobody cares that the asphalt gets dirty as gently caress on. and just because it's been nagging me, you arent supposed to add anything to the nitro fuel you buy from the stores, right? i have 4 liters of 25% nitro that cost me around 20 dollars a liter!
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Mar 18, 2010 19:15
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Frobbe posted:and just because it's been nagging me, you arent supposed to add anything to the nitro fuel you buy from the stores, right? i have 4 liters of 25% nitro that cost me around 20 dollars a liter! Nope, rc car fuel comes with oil mixed in already. Also, I'm not able to judge completely from your description, but I'd wager that your engine is running rich, not lean. Usually the default settings in the manual are for break-in. You run it rich during break-in to make sure that there is plenty of lube and it runs cool. Then you're supposed to lean it out to get performance. Go look for some break-in videos on youtube so you can get an idea of what 'running rich' sounds like. If anything, your idle screw might be set a little high or your servo linkage may not be adjusted correctly. You should pull the air filter and adjust the idle screw so that you have about a 1mm opening when the throttle is fully closed. Use this opportunity to make sure that your servo linkage is set right too. Turn on your radio and set the trim so that the throttle is closed. Then, if you have adjustable end points, you should check and make sure that it can open fully as well.
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Mar 18, 2010 19:23
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kuffs posted:Nope, rc car fuel comes with oil mixed in already. Oh, okay, that's one worry off my list. Nitro cars are finicky, noisy, bitches. I've now established that the engine still works and turns over as it should, after emptying it of all vital fluids. after that i put a few drops of after run oil into it and cranked it a few times. hopefully this will not be it's last oils :V
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Mar 18, 2010 21:13
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They're more resilient than you might think. Just don't run it in water, or without an air filter.
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Mar 18, 2010 21:54
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yeah, i was downright scared to even crank it without an airfilter on, but i've got a brand new high visibility yellow airfilter on it . Received the chopper today, it has brushless and lipo and omg so much awesome, can't wait to crash it to all gently caress (won't crash it to all gently caress, will have to get training gears!) i also need a simulator cable for this controller, a Walkera WK-0701, and google reveals these do exist and work with realflight, nifty!
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Mar 19, 2010 10:18
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Fixed up my Ansmann virus, gonna run it this thurday and get it tuned and all that whizzbang.  
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Mar 23, 2010 17:16
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I finally managed to connect my WK-2401 (My Walkera 4g3 TX) to my computer and use it in Real Flight G4.5. That was an adventure. If any wants to know (doubt it) I've used a mono wire from the remote's S-Video adapter to my computer's audio card line in. I then I installed and setup PPJoy along with SmartPropoPlus (Generic). This work for a lot more than just Walkera TX, as long as it have a training port. I've used this 'tutorial' to guide me through the process. The real pain in the rear end was assigning channels and calibration. I needed one of the switch on my TX to do throttle up. I still haven't figured a way to use the flight mode switch in Real Flight. So.. Yeah, sorry for the rambling. Back to crashing my virtual heli.
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Mar 24, 2010 14:16
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IsaacNewton posted:I finally managed to connect my WK-2401 (My Walkera 4g3 TX) to my computer and use it in Real Flight G4.5. That was an adventure. If any wants to know (doubt it) I've used a mono wire from the remote's S-Video adapter to my computer's audio card line in. I then I installed and setup PPJoy along with SmartPropoPlus (Generic). This work for a lot more than just Walkera TX, as long as it have a training port. i've been looking at the guide to make a plug for my own walkera transmitter for a bit now, and pondering where the hell i can actually get the plugs i need to make it. might have to hit up a few AV stores around my area in order to see if they have them
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Mar 24, 2010 14:54
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I bet http://www.parts-express.com/ has them
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Mar 24, 2010 15:12
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Frobbe posted:i've been looking at the guide to make a plug for my own walkera transmitter for a bit now, and pondering where the hell i can actually get the plugs i need to make it. Call around electronic shops asking for Four-pin mini-DIN plug (hint: it's an s-video cable but you'll make them scratch their head a bit wondering what you mean if you ask for a mini-DIN plug) if you don't have one already (you should have gotten one with your TX..) and then you can use a Stereo cable to plug it into your computer line in, as long as you short the 'right' channel to ground to prevent interferences. Mono cables are a bit harder to find, but you might be able to use an old mic cord.
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Mar 24, 2010 15:14
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actually found both parts i needed, for 2 bucks each and i appreciate links to webstores, but usually shipping is hell on anything i need delivered to denmark, and it takes ages too.
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Mar 24, 2010 21:04
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Bah, I keep forgetting about the Europe thing. Sorry!
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Mar 24, 2010 21:29
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Just came from a practice session of Hara and Andy Moore running the new Cyclone (TCX), it's amazing watching really really good drivers do their thing on the track. They're practicing for the LRP TCM this weekend, and then Hara's going to race at the Neo Buggy next weekend - should be good.
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Mar 24, 2010 21:56
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IsaacNewton posted:Call around electronic shops asking for Four-pin mini-DIN plug (hint: it's an s-video cable but you'll make them scratch their head a bit wondering what you mean if you ask for a mini-DIN plug) if you don't have one already (you should have gotten one with your TX..) and then you can use a Stereo cable to plug it into your computer line in, as long as you short the 'right' channel to ground to prevent interferences. Mono cables are a bit harder to find, but you might be able to use an old mic cord. do you have AIM or MSN or something similar? i've now managed to get the cable working, all the software's installed, but when i try to fly my helicopter in RealFlight the engine on it just cuts out immediately. halp!
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Mar 24, 2010 23:30
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newtons2k at hotmail.com (MSN), I'll be happy to help.
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Mar 24, 2010 23:37
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Can any of the EU residents help me out? I'm in the USA now and want to start RC racing, but here in Pennsylvania it's all about short-course trucks and dirt-oval stuff (sprint cars, etc). I'll be moving to either the UK or Denmark come the end of summer though, so I don't want to end up getting something that nobody races in Europe. So what're the most popular racing classes in the UK or Denmark these days? What I'd most like to try is 1/10 touring cars (nitro would be cool, nitro seems so fun) but I dunno how popular that is. Any tips?
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Mar 24, 2010 23:44
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Took my Tamiya TRF 415 MSXMREDMc Edition touring car out for a run at the local track last night, since it was competition night. I have not done any maintenance (other than changing a motor) on it since early 2008. Got two firsts, a second and a third. Nothing broken on the car at all. Felt nicely smug after that effort. thorsilver posted:So what're the most popular racing classes in the UK or Denmark these days? What I'd most like to try is 1/10 touring cars (nitro would be cool, nitro seems so fun) but I dunno how popular that is. Any tips? RCTech have International forums, and there is a UK one in there: http://www.rctech.net/forum/#international-forums They might be able to point you in the right direction for racing in UK and Europe. You Am I fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Mar 25, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 00:18
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thorsilver posted:1/10 touring cars (nitro would be cool, nitro seems so fun) Not so big in the UK, not sure about Denmark. It's kind of dead & dying. 1/8th buggy (known as 'rallycross') is king right now, touring car has waned quite a lot but might be poised for a comeback. Truggies are raced in the UK but nothing like what the buggy class is seeing. Short course is very slow to pick up, crawling is getting there but I think it's probably plateaued in popularity. F1 is starting to take off in the UK but all the club racers want to do is run fast motors and foams, which might kill it off before it has a real chance. Mini racing is nonexistant, there's very few Tamiya racers these days. What else...1/8th on-road has a regular national series but I think it's pretty stagnant. 1/10th buggy has been growing and growing in the past couple of years, don't bother with 1/10th truck (RC10T, etc.). If you're into bikes there's a regular contingent of 1/5th scale racers that do an organized national series. For large scale on-road I'm sure there's a regular group of racers but they don't really pop up on the radar, I think large scale off-road (Baja, FG, etc.) is far bigger. Being from PA you'll be used to how everything goes indoors in the winter, so F1, 1/12th, 1/8th off-road, etc., get big while it's cold, the rest of the classes start popping up in spring.
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Mar 25, 2010 00:29
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what's really hot and trendy in Denmark right now is drifting, but even though Denmark is tiny, what is popular really depends on which major city you move to. http://drcmu.net/ would be a site to check out, it covers the two main classes we have in denmark, which are simply 1:10 touring and then offroad in various sizes. Short course trucks are growing in popularity as time goes on though. https://www.rcgalleri.dk is another site to check out, but that's mostly just for the market section, don't ever try to reason with the crowd there, they are either 40+ fudds or 15 year old snot nosed brats.
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Mar 25, 2010 00:38
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Thanks for the tips guys, interesting to see what differs between the UK and Denmark racing scenes. I just read an article in one of the mags recently that was going on about the impending resurgence of touring car racing, so I'm hopeful that might come to pass! Interesting that it seems to be waning so much in the UK, but from what I saw on rcgalleri.dk and racegallery.dk touring cars seem to be pretty widespread. The most likely scenario for the moment is that I'll end up in Copenhagen, but if that doesn't come through I'll be in northern England instead, so I'll keep looking and see what I can find out about RC clubs and such in those two spots. So I guess the next question is, what's an economical way to get started in 1/10 electric touring cars? Drifting sounds interesting too, but how the hell do people do drifting properly in RC, anyway?
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Mar 25, 2010 01:11
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I didn't mention drifting in the UK, it's very small, much smaller than the other classes - there's a national series but it's kind of a core group of about 20 racers, and maybe a few more that show up at different rounds. When I say 'core group' I mean these guys probably don't do drifting at their local club, so there's no regular weekly 'scene' - they just do their thing at the national series and demos at car shows and race tracks. The cool thing about racing in the UK - and I think this is true for mainland Europe as well - is that the various series go to different clubs and tracks, so you have to learn the tracks as you go. There's also the local club racers that know every inch of the track in various layouts, and of course the old grizzled veterans that are familiar with all of the tracks but know one or two really really well. If you've seen the VRC game you may have seen the Halifax track, which is mainly for nitro but the national series still goes there I think. The game also has tracks from all over Europe, the VRC guys are based in Holland so they're able to check them all out.
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Mar 25, 2010 12:14
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thorsilver posted:So I guess the next question is, what's an economical way to get started in 1/10 electric touring cars? Drifting sounds interesting too, but how the hell do people do drifting properly in RC, anyway? I'm not into the scene, but here's what I gather so far: They use plastic tires, or some kind of special hard 'drift' tire. I think they lock the diffs in both the front and the back. And then they stiffen up the suspension.
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Mar 25, 2010 15:09
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kuffs posted:I'm not into the scene, but here's what I gather so far: They use plastic tires, or some kind of special hard 'drift' tire. I think they lock the diffs in both the front and the back. And then they stiffen up the suspension. You can get proper drift out of any touring car that has enough torque to engage intentional wheel spin in a tight turn. It's pretty much a matter of entering the corner with about two thirds throttle then hitting the gas and turning into the skid similar top how you'd drift your wife's Toyota through a Popeye's Chicken parking lot while she's on a business trip in Iowa. Personally I think the plastic tires and drift control units take all the fun out of it as getting the car to drift properly takes a lot of practice but is very rewarding when you get the hang of it. These kinds of mods, in addition to rendering the car useless for anything but drifting, change the model from a scale RC car and into a "Drifting Robot" if you get my meaning and demonstrate the same philosophy that turns me away from Pan Cars and Comp Crawlers. A front spool and any rubber tire that has low traction on asphalt combined with a high torque motor and gearing setup will do the job with some practice. This summer I'm considering entering my Tamiya Rally Car in a drift competition since it's configuration for actual RC Rally racing already has all of the things I stated above and performs on asphalt kinda like a Gymkhana car. I won't win any trophies trying this but I will actually be burning rubber not PVC pipe. edit: In other news, my SC-10 has recently undergone significant blingification. I recently installed the first two stages in what will be a five stage rebuild to get my truck ready to compete in Open Mod SCT this summer. Prior to this rebuild I had already installed a Novak HAVOC 3s ESC and Ballistic 8.5t rebuildable motor, Pro Line Beadlocks mounted with Switch tires, Factory Team titanium turnbuckles with RPM ball ends, RPM front A-Arms and Factory Team carbon rear, MIP CVDs, STRC front and rear hubs, J Concepts Truth body, and a bunch of other miscellaneous other small poo poo. When I ordered the first two shipments of parts I completely tore the truck down and cleaned each part and stored them in little plastic baggies filled with WD-40 labeled for the rebuild. The first two stages of the rebuild were Transmission and Chassis. These two stages represent the bulk of the expense of what will turn out to be a very expensive rebuild. If you're into RC people who aren't will invariably ask after making the mistake of seeing your RC collection and casually mentioning it, "How much did you spend fixing this thing up?'. It's a painful question and one that had different answers if my wife is in earshot. I prefer to think of my cars in "RTRs" or how many RTRs of the same car I could buy with the money invested in it. It stings a little less than s solid dollar value. Prior to this build the truck was at about 2 RTRs. The Chassis and Transmission upgrades take that number up to 4. First was the transmission as this is kind of the beating heart of the car that everything else is built around. First was a MIP Ball Differential which is kind of a given for competition these days and while it will improve performance, I can already tell that it will require a lot more maintenance than the gear diff needed meaning any at all. I coupled this with a Hot Racing 27t Aluminum idler gear and MIP Top End. This was all supposed to go in a Golden Horizions Aluminum Transmission Case but they're back ordered at the moment so I'll have to wait an indeterminate amount of time to get one from China. I know GH doesn't have the best reputation but I really want to get as many metal on metal contact surfaces as possible as I'll explain later. I also got a set of Hot Racing Aluminum Spur Gears and a set of Robinson Racing Pinion Gears so I can dial in any gear ratio I want with the swappable rotors in my Ballistic motor. This all metal gearbox is also for later on down the road when I really start putting some wacky batteries in it to see what it can handle. The next item was the Chassis. This mostly included replacing a few parts that had disintegrated from a year of hard abuse as I tore the truck down. This included the Chassis Braces and Castors and were replaced with Aluminum parts from Golden Horizions and STRC. I also wanted to replace a few other parts like the Shock Towers and Body Mounts with aluminum parts from STRC so I could have as many metal on metal surfaces as possible for the RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit I put in so I could Loctite down as many things as possible without having to worry about stripping heads. I also installed an aluminum STRC battery brace for extra rigidity and low CG weight in the chassis.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The next three stages in order will be the Shocks, Steering, and finally the Body and Exterior. I'll post updates when future upgrades come in and track reports when I finally race it. James Woods fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 20:16
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Spent some time today doing some more rewiring for my chargers, and converted the three Turnigy packs I got from bullets to Deans. Holy gently caress those 8ga wires are a pain in the rear end to solder, but I think they're all good. At this point, all I really need to go racing again is a transponder, my R/C tools, a servo (I should still have one in a TC3, or in the toolbox), and ideally the new SC10 in kit form. Getting really tempted to just go ahead and put together everything in the gold-tub RC10, or one of the XX buggies, though.
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Mar 28, 2010 01:57
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After I replaced about $100 worth of worn and broken parts on my Jammin buggy, bought all new electronics and a nice pipe to go with my rebuilt Ninja engine. We have no local 1/8 scale off road this year, and I'm pissed. We got a new race director at the local track and he told everyone he was planning on running 1/8 and 1/10 scale. But a couple of weeks ago he brought his crew out and rebuilt the track. And by rebuilt he completely demolished it. He says he doesn't give a poo poo about 1/8 scale because SC is the only class that he enjoys racing. So he build a SC track for him and his buds. Looks like I'll be only running my SC10 this year. Kind of sucks because I don't run electric and the only stuff I have is the stuff that came with my t4 when I bought it new years ago. And James Woods, man I'm jealous of your setup.
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Mar 28, 2010 02:58
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James Woods posted:The next item was the Chassis. This mostly included replacing a few parts that had disintegrated from a year of hard abuse as I tore the truck down. This included the Chassis Braces and Castors and were replaced with Aluminum parts from Golden Horizions and STRC. I also wanted to replace a few other parts like the Shock Towers and Body Mounts with aluminum parts from STRC so I could have as many metal on metal surfaces as possible for the RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit I put in so I could Loctite down as many things as possible without having to worry about stripping heads. Stainless screws are soft as poo poo and I dont understand your reasoning for it at all?
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Mar 28, 2010 16:17
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Laserface posted:Stainless screws are soft as poo poo and I dont understand your reasoning for it at all? They're actually considerably stronger than the stock screws and have the added bonus of not corroding. RC Screwz will also refund or replace your kit if you ever break a screw or are otherwise unsatisfied.
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Mar 28, 2010 23:25
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http://www.tonysscrews.com/
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Mar 28, 2010 23:30
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Laserface posted:Stainless screws are soft as poo poo and I dont understand your reasoning for it at all? What screws are you familiar with?
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Mar 28, 2010 23:41
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Went to Harbor Freight today and bought a $25 case:  Fits the 3PM transmitter, two Dynam DC6 chargers, my converted 380W ATX power supply, and all of the cables needed for all of them. Plus, with some of the (huge) amount of extra foam removed, I can keep the lipo pack in the 3PM from rattling around. There's a chunk of eggcrate foam that goes in the lid to cushion everything. Beats the hell out of the old days where I kept most of my stuff in its original packaging - meant I was hauling all manner of boxes every time.
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Mar 29, 2010 03:30
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Holy crap! I love that idea. I think I'll be going to harbor freight tomorrow.
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Mar 29, 2010 03:38
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It's really easy to do, too - the foam is prescored in squares about 1cm x 1cm, so you just take the piece of gear you want to put in it, press down, and start ripping the ones that bent the most. I also picked up a $3 sheet of toolbox liner that will probably make a good workmat - stuff sticks to it instead of bouncing, which will probably be nice for e-clips. I'm not putting any tools in it, though I suspect you could; I do still have a nice Plano box that should still have everything I need in that regard. I'm loving the idea of being able to get to the track with two, maybe three small boxes, a table, and a lawn chair, as opposed to the huge cardboard box (full of smaller cardboard boxes) I used to throw in the bed of my truck. I might pick up a second one of these, though, or maybe a smaller version, just to keep my batteries in; the lipo sack takes care of fire hazard but I'd still like a solid case to move them in.
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Mar 29, 2010 03:41
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I have a tendency to bring way too much crap with me to the track. Even when I'm just practicing (3 times a week). I'd like to get a box like this and put all the stuff for my nitro car in it. That way I only need to bring this box, my starter box, some fuel and my car. I'll keep my radio, temp gun, glow plug igniter, and carb adjustment screwdriver in it. It's kind of hard to tell from the pic, but can two radios fit easily? I use my 2.4 for my buggy and on-road car. But I'm still using an old fm radio for my sc10. The receivers for the Futaba 3PM are ridiculously expensive. SGT. Squeaks fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 29, 2010 |
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Mar 29, 2010 03:51
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I just ran out and checked by laying my old 2PBKA on top of the chargers and power supply, and yeah, I'd say you could get two transmitters in there pretty easily, as long as you don't put one too far to the center. I've got a 2PEKA in storage at my dad's that I can check with later, since it's sized more along what an actual modern radio is like, but I don't see any issues.
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Mar 29, 2010 04:06
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Here's my tool/pit box setup, I'll post some pictures of them tomorrow. Tool Box: Plano tackle box with 3 swappable containers. This holds absolutely all of my tools, fluids, and other consumables. The 3 swappable containers each hold spare parts, organized by car. Since this is something I will only need at the track, the idea is to exchange the containers for the car I'm racing that day. May not work well for anything above 1/10th, as the parts tend to get a lot larger. .jpg) .jpg) Radio box: Seahorse SE540 case This is the only case I've found that will fit my Eurus with the drop-down angle adapter installed.   Electric running gear box: Cheap Black and Decker tool box I put all of my batteries, my charger, and my power supply in here. I also put tires and my cheap battery voltage checker in here. .jpg) .jpg) .jpg) Nitro running gear box: Slightly larger cheap Black and Decker tool box I put my fuel, starter boxes / wands, glow ignitors, plugs, temp gun, and fuel bottle in here. I have a hole that I cut in the top and the tray to allow me to fit a fuel bottle in there. .jpg) .jpg) .jpg) I spent a long time shopping around for a tool box that would fit a gallon of fuel. After looking at $40~70 options at Sears that I thought I might hack a bracket on to, I saw one of these for sale for $10 at Walmart. For $10, I figured I could light the first one on fire, gently caress up the hole on the second one, and finally get it right on the third try and still end up ahead of my other options. Also has holes cut in it to fit the 3PM that IOC now owns. The idea behind this is: if I want to go bash, I just grab my radio, electric / nitro running gear and my car. If I want to go racing, I do the same and grab my tool box as well. That way I'm hauling the minimal amount of gear around without compromising. kuffs fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Mar 30, 2010 |
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Mar 29, 2010 04:25
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