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All Jeeps seem to have electrical gremlins. Wires are run too short, things short out easily. What kills me is they have had the same issues forever and Chrysler has never fixed them. My brother has I think a 06 or 07 GC and it has the same stupid wiring harness problems in the doors where the wires are too short and break. My parents '94 GC had the exact same issue. For christ's sake chrysler.
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Mar 19, 2010 23:55
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Cat Hatter posted:Tell me about it. My Cherokee has needed both front window regulators replaced, my gauges sometimes cut out for about a minute at a time, I may have to run new wires to the driver's speaker because it has gone silent and the speaker is fine, my gauges have no idea what the transfer case is doing, and just yesterday my dash stopped lighting up when I turn my headlights on. My gauges cut out all the time. I've found a light smack on the dash brings them back to life. As for the driver's speaker wires, pretty much every Cherokee owner I know has had his driver side speaker fail on him. Mine's been out for 3 years.
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Mar 20, 2010 07:06
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Pull out the gauge cluster and clean the connectors with isopropyl or denatured alcohol. Guarantee that they have some corrosion on them.
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Mar 20, 2010 16:55
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Rhyno posted:As for the driver's speaker wires, pretty much every Cherokee owner I know has had his driver side speaker fail on him. Mine's been out for 3 years.
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Mar 20, 2010 17:00
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fordham posted:All Jeeps seem to have electrical gremlins. Wires are run too short, things short out easily. What kills me is they have had the same issues forever and Chrysler has never fixed them.
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Mar 20, 2010 17:02
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CharlieWhiskey posted:This explains why I was once able to restart my electrically-dead XJ by wiggling the wires in the driver's door jamb. Bizarre. How'd you even know to do this?
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Mar 20, 2010 17:55
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Hey Jeep dudes. This looks like a good deal to me, what do you guys think? I'm in the market for a classic project car and this struck my eye. http://elpaso.en.craigslist.org/cto/1652899077.html
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Mar 20, 2010 19:13
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Is 6500 for a 98 Wrangler with 114k miles (hard and soft included, manual trans) an alright deal or should I try to work this down a bit? I'm going to take a look at this tomorrow, what should I be looking out for?
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Mar 21, 2010 06:45
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That's a bit overpriced, but plug it into KBB.com and see what you get. I got about $4750 from KBB for a good condition '98 SE, with a 4-cyl manual transmission. TJs are still holding their value, but the early years are starting to come down and you should keep shopping if you don't like the price. If you intend to use it for anything other than daily driving, check the axle gear ratios. Many 6-cyl 5-speeds came with 3.07 gears, and you may want to avoid them unless you plan to regear it anyway. The ratios are printed on the axle tag, which is a strip of stamped metal bolted to the rear and front differential covers. If it's a 4-cyl, it will have 4.10 gears and so this is a moot point. The 4-cyl will last forever and is a good engine, but it will be slow, slow, slow. If you don't care about speed, don't drive on the highway much, and never want to tow anything, it's probably a good setup for you. Really, poor axle gearing is about the only thing I can think of to look for on a used TJ. All the other average used car stuff to check out will apply. incredibull fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 21, 2010 |
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Mar 21, 2010 18:52
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its like lava posted:Hey Jeep dudes. This looks like a good deal to me, what do you guys think? I'm in the market for a classic project car and this struck my eye. So have you hit that like a bus full of old people stopping at a casino buffet yet? I was at the loving DMV and the guy who helped me had one in stock shape for $2200. Pimped out with a four speed as well. Why do I find more toys when I don't need them? I had a thought, then I said to myself NO! One problem, and off topic to the post I am replying to, that I have is the seat belt is a little short, and mounts pretty low on the pillar. The mounting point and my shoulder are about the same. I'd like to drop the seat down a couple of inches and back the same amount.
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Mar 21, 2010 23:21
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its like lava posted:Hey Jeep dudes. This looks like a good deal to me, what do you guys think? I'm in the market for a classic project car and this struck my eye. I would buy it. Looks fantastic, no rust, short bed, manual, and a brow. This is my dream car.
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Mar 22, 2010 02:02
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its like lava posted:Hey Jeep dudes. This looks like a good deal to me, what do you guys think? I'm in the market for a classic project car and this struck my eye. Why is this not in your garage RIGHT NOW? With those AMC v8 engines, watch out for low oil pressure. They'll roast the main bearings first, back to front. A new oil pump (timing cover) will set you back some serious coin. Mine was $400 or so from Bulltear.com with oil filter adapter and their "HRC" gears, nickle-plated is the way to go. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 22, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 02:06
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So I ask again, does anyone know how to get the rear bumper fascia off a 99 Grand Cherokee? Supposedly there are clips that you have to undo from the cargo compartment, but I can't find anything like that despite having followed the instructions carefully. I can't get the trailer hitch back on without taking it off. Where the gently caress are these clips? I can't find any pictures or diagrams anywhere. Please help!
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Mar 23, 2010 16:37
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TraumaMonkey posted:How'd you even know to do this? 
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Mar 23, 2010 17:58
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I have been thinking about getting myself a Jeep Grand Cherokee, one of the ZJ's, to use as my DD/beater. I'm looking in the 94-98 range, don't really have a preference on either the 4.0 straight 6 or 5.2 V8, I just don't want the 5.9, because I don't need the power and would like to avoid total gas rape. I'm pretty decent with doing basic work on cars, and have a large friends network ranging from electrical guys to professional welders and mechanics, so doing work on the vehicle, barring something really major, isn't an issue. One of my best friends had a ZJ from this time frame, so I am partially familiar with them. My question is the standard, what do I need to know about them in regards to not getting a lovely one? Obviously, things like checking for rust and rot are on the list, as well as making sure everything works and runs well, but I don't know what all the little quirks I need to be aware of are. As far as options go, I'm not really picky at all. Things like leather, premium sound, etc. are all gravy to me. Biggest one I would want, based on my reading, is the Selec-Trac 4WD. All that said, here are two in my area that both seem to look decent, at least online. I'd love to hear any opinions or thoughts on them. Thanks. 1998 http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/ctd/1648947850.html 1994 http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/ctd/1657884740.html If you click around on the ad pages, there are plenty more pictures too.
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Mar 24, 2010 05:52
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Some photos from Eagle Ridge on Sunday:                    
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Mar 28, 2010 01:27
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My 96 Cherokee is leaking fuel. It looks like it's coming from the fuel filter (assuming the fuel filter's visible from under the back of the truck). How much, ballpark, is this going to cost me at a shop? This goddamn thing is a total money pit. 
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Mar 28, 2010 18:34
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jonathan posted:
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Mar 28, 2010 19:17
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CharlieWhiskey posted:If AI had a cute/uplifting thread like PYF, this would belong in the OP I tried to buy it awhile back. The body is shitkicked, but it has an 8" longarm lift, 35" tires, chromoly axles, 4.88:1 gears, D44 rear end, locked diffs front and rear (selectable not welded) and a whole shitload of other stuff... My buddy snatched it up for $2500. I'd buy a clean body 97-01 XJ with a blown drivetrain for dirt cheap and swap over all the running gear if I had the chance. 2 weekends labour and $3500 total investment for something that would easily cost $12k to build from scratch if you started with a clean body.
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Mar 30, 2010 02:32
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Wamsutta posted:How much, ballpark, is this going to cost me at a shop? Taking it to the shop is the problem here, you probably just need a new rubber hose or hose clamp. Search for a fuel diagram and track it down yourself, its not difficult. Take a rag under with you and run it along the fuel lines until you find a wet spot. The fuel system diagrams are available online if you search and can find what part needs replacing.
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Mar 30, 2010 04:24
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Can anyone give me any input on my post above? I'd really appreciate some more knowledgeable opinions.
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Mar 30, 2010 05:41
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I've got an '05 TJ, 4.0L w/ just under 30K miles that goes into some sort of limp mode whenever I rev it past 4K RPM (i.e. merging onto the highway). The CEL also comes on during this. The code is P0344 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT. Reseating the CPS didn't fix the issue, so I ordered a new one. While waiting for it to come in, I did a bit of googling, and found this thread on jeepforum where the guy describes the symptoms I'm having almost to a T. I wouldn't describe what's happening at 2K RPM a re-limit, it's more of a shudder, or extreme misfire. The whole jeep shakes, and I can feel the engine rocking, so I usually just clutch and pull over, kill the engine, reset the code, and go back on like nothing happened. In the thread the guy said that the new CPS seemed to fix it, but I PM'd him on those forums to ask if he'd seen issues since, and he informed me that his actually came out to be a bad main bearing from the factory. Is there an easy way that I can tell whether or not the CPS is the issue without replacing it in the interest of saving a few bucks?
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Mar 30, 2010 17:49
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J8 NuKizer.... Click here for the full 1900x1267 image.  Click here for the full 1900x1267 image.  Click here for the full 1900x1267 image.  Click here for the full 1900x1267 image.    
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Apr 1, 2010 18:01
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A fitting day for Chrysler to debut another pickup concept they'll never put into production.
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Apr 1, 2010 18:05
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Goob posted:A fitting day for Chrysler to debut another pickup concept they'll never put into production. Well sort of. It "debuted" at the Moab Easter Jeep Safari on the 28th. But I get the joke :p
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Apr 1, 2010 18:13
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grnberet2b posted:I've got an '05 TJ, 4.0L w/ just under 30K miles that goes into some sort of limp mode whenever I rev it past 4K RPM (i.e. merging onto the highway). The CEL also comes on during this. The code is P0344 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT INTERMITTENT. Reseating the CPS didn't fix the issue, so I ordered a new one. Not really. You'd need an oscilloscope to read the square wave output of the CPS to see what's going on above 4k, and even then what are you going to do with it? I've never disassembled the CPS but it's worth a shot when you get your replacement
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Apr 1, 2010 18:25
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What's the best way to mount a CB whip on a Cherokee? And then I have to find a place to put the CB. I'd like to remove the center console as well.... I hate how the seatbelt is mounted way down in there, I like really easy access to the release button.
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Apr 2, 2010 00:35
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InterceptorV8 posted:What's the best way to mount a CB whip on a Cherokee? And then I have to find a place to put the CB. I'd like to remove the center console as well.... I hate how the seatbelt is mounted way down in there, I like really easy access to the release button. I have a k40 antenna, I notched the plastic bumper cap on the rear bumper and attached it there. As for the CB its over the rear-view mirror. You might be able to track down one of the early shifter surround peices. The early cherokee's offered a surround that only covered the shifter/4wd lever.  Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Apr 2, 2010 |
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Apr 2, 2010 05:39
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InterceptorV8 posted:What's the best way to mount a CB whip on a Cherokee? And then I have to find a place to put the CB. I'd like to remove the center console as well.... I hate how the seatbelt is mounted way down in there, I like really easy access to the release button. I don't know what features you are looking for, but the Cobra 75 is nice and easy to hide behind the dash, with all the controls built into the mic. 
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Apr 2, 2010 22:43
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Veeb0rg posted:I have a k40 antenna, I notched the plastic bumper cap on the rear bumper and attached it there. As for the CB its over the rear-view mirror. Nice, I was thinking about pulling my radio antenna and mounting it there.... did the sticks also have the small surround? ThinkFear posted:I don't know what features you are looking for, but the Cobra 75 is nice and easy to hide behind the dash, with all the controls built into the mic. Looks neat, but I have another 29 with road devil mic ready to go.
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Apr 3, 2010 04:47
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InterceptorV8 posted:Nice, I was thinking about pulling my radio antenna and mounting it there.... did the sticks also have the small surround? difference in the stick and auto surround was sticks got the boot, autos got the indicator, the holes are exactly the same otherwise so it wouldn't matter what the source vehicle had.
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Apr 3, 2010 10:23
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Boomerjinks posted:J8 NuKizer.... My god thats beautiful.
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Apr 3, 2010 18:53
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Veeb0rg posted:difference in the stick and auto surround was sticks got the boot, autos got the indicator, the holes are exactly the same otherwise so it wouldn't matter what the source vehicle had. Sweet! I'll have to keep my eyes open.
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Apr 3, 2010 19:01
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I want to punch in the face the guy who decided torx bolts would be a good idea to put on differential cover. While Dana axles have regular hex heads, the AMC 20 features 12 T40 bolts, which probably haven't been removed in 20 years. I was wondering why the differentials were always leaking after driving, I opened the front cover and discovered no gasket, just a lot of RTV sealant 
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Apr 8, 2010 05:45
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I've never used any gaskets on Jeep axles, just carefully applied RTV. No leaks, never a problem. I've heard that LubeLocker gaskets are pretty popular though, a lot of people like the re-usability and not having to scrape and reapply RTV. Torx are the absolute worst though, next to safety Torx.
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Apr 8, 2010 07:29
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Pulled the interior of my YJ the other day so I could apply my bi-annual coat of herculiner. And once I'd coated that, I got it into my head to paint my center console to be the correct Sahara green, and then to touch up the ends of my rollcage, and then paint the door panels... oh poo poo where did my weekend go? Now after all that work, I don't want to put it back together because cruising around completely topless is too much fun. 
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Apr 10, 2010 08:08
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So I'm real close into buying a 4.0L head for my '90YJ 4.2L engine. People state it gives you a 30-40 HP increase in power to the meager 112HP the 258 I6 has, but I'm having pre-buyer's remorse right now. The 4.0L has ~190HP, and I feel to properly get around in my country, where there's loads of hills everywhere, I need something around 180HP for a car this size and with no aerodynamics to speak of. Really I don't like 2fast2furious poo poo at all, but it's also horrible to go up a hill at 25MPH at a 55MPH limit zone, going in 3rd gear ~1800RPM, where I can even go higher than the limit with my mom's Mitsubishi in 5th gear. I wouldn't mind going at 40MPH, just something not extremely slow. So I guess the question is: will the 4.0L head swap suffice, or should I shell out money for a 4.0L engine altogether?
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Apr 11, 2010 01:41
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Steiler Drep posted:So I'm real close into buying a 4.0L head for my '90YJ 4.2L engine. People state it gives you a 30-40 HP increase in power to the meager 112HP the 258 I6 has, but I'm having pre-buyer's remorse right now. The 4.0L has ~190HP, and I feel to properly get around in my country, where there's loads of hills everywhere, I need something around 180HP for a car this size and with no aerodynamics to speak of. Really I don't like 2fast2furious poo poo at all, but it's also horrible to go up a hill at 25MPH at a 55MPH limit zone, going in 3rd gear ~1800RPM, where I can even go higher than the limit with my mom's Mitsubishi in 5th gear. I wouldn't mind going at 40MPH, just something not extremely slow. I've got a 2000 TJ with the 4.0 and it is a dog going up hills at highway speeds too. You'll still have to downshift to maintain speed. A gearing change would help, especially if you're running larger tires.
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Apr 11, 2010 02:11
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Hey goons, first time poster in this thread. I've been looking at a few vehicles to pick up for myself and today I was floored when I found a 2010 Wrangler Islander at the local Jeep dealership. It's Surf Blue and looks amazing in the sun. The only thing that's hanging me up is that it's got the auto transmission. I don't really see myself as a hardcore off roader and I only have a few beach cruises under my belt in my 4WD Toyota Pickup(5 spd). After driving 6k+ miles in the year I've owned my truck I find it a pain to drive in town with the manual transmission and my fear is going on a trail and having to slip the clutch like a bitch to get somewhere. Goons: Is this a bad idea? Edit: Yay, thread resurrection! 
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Apr 25, 2010 03:12
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Cablekid posted:Hey goons, first time poster in this thread. I've been looking at a few vehicles to pick up for myself and today I was floored when I found a 2010 Wrangler Islander at the local Jeep dealership. It's Surf Blue and looks amazing in the sun. Transmission choice comes down to preference. I wouldn't consider either superior as they both have benefits. Rough terrain will be a bit easier in an auto since you won't get such bad lurching when your foot bounces on the gas pedal; either way, you'll want a hand throttle for driving over uneven terrain so you can avoid unexpected throttle changes. If you're slipping your clutch like a bitch, use a lower gear or put the transfer case in low; you shouldn't be going fast in that kind of situation anyway.
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Apr 25, 2010 06:11
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