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Barry the Sprout posted:I'm looking for comments and criticism on my April oathed Wolf Lord. He's going on my diorama, so he's my first ever attempt at kitbashing, the backpack is missing at the moment as it's still in the post. It was pretty fun to do, I will probably try doing more in the future. That head is like Ron Perlman with a quiff and excessive facial hair. Awesome. The wolf tail on the storm bolter looks a bit big for the weapon. I'd lose the thing, there's enough WOLFWOLFWOLFWOLF on it already.
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Apr 2, 2010 18:44
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Flip the tassle on the Stormbolter, the sheathed blade looks like he'd get tangled in it, and I don't know if you can fix his sword hand but the wrist is gimpy. Did not notice the sword hand until I took the photo. Not sure I can fix it easily without hacking it to pieces. Have removed the tassel, it looks better I think. Those things are too big. I will see how the backpack looks when it arrives, I don't like painting them so would be happier to lose it. The awesome head is from the Wolf Guard set. Those bits are so much better than the two piece Eldar guardians I had over ten years ago. Any tips for first time greenstuffing?
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Apr 2, 2010 19:00
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Barry the Sprout posted:Any tips for first time greenstuffing?
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Apr 2, 2010 19:03
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stabbington posted:Keep your tools properly lubricated, or you will lose your loving mind. With what, exactly? Im considering doing more sculpting and modelling, and I run into this problem a lot. I generally just stick the tool in my mouth (lol) every 30 seconds or so
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Apr 2, 2010 19:08
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Vaseline does the trick. Just make sure you wash it off the greenstuff before you paint.
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Apr 2, 2010 19:18
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PaintVagrant posted:With what, exactly? Im considering doing more sculpting and modelling, and I run into this problem a lot. I generally just stick the tool in my mouth (lol) every 30 seconds or so There's a few options: -Don't use GS. -Use clay shapers, they require no to little lubrication. Water will do. -Use baby oil . The biggest issue with using oil based lube while sculpting is that it's a bitch to get off and it makes poo poo shiny, which can be distracting. I'd recommend you pony up $20 for a set of clay shapers. They own. You will still probably want a hard tool as well.
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Apr 2, 2010 20:10
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!amicable posted:There's a few options: There are silicone sculpting tools as well (not sure if this is what you were referring to).
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Apr 2, 2010 20:45
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I just have a cup of water for my tools. Just keep anything that's going to touch the greenstuff wet and they shouldn't stick to the greenstuff and you'll do fine.
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Apr 2, 2010 21:50
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Zarkov Cortez posted:There are silicone sculpting tools as well (not sure if this is what you were referring to). Yeah. Clay Shapers: http://www.dickblick.com/products/royal-sovereign-clay-shaper-sets/?wmcp=google&wmcid=products&wmckw=30303-1009-1948 I don't know that the material is silicone, but it's rubbery. I also don't think my set is Royal Sovereign, but that's beside the point.
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Apr 2, 2010 22:21
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Do yourself a favour, and pick up some Citadel Ink washes as well. With the colors you've got, I'd recommend; What's a wash? And why is it recommended?
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Apr 2, 2010 22:42
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Swags posted:What's a wash? And why is it recommended? Essentially, it's liquid shading, premixed and coloured for your convenience.
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Apr 2, 2010 22:49
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Swags posted:What's a wash? And why is it recommended? here's a quick marketing blurb, along with recommended usage. Page 4 shows how washes look on the model. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=cat1030005&aId=6800011 Really helpful stuff to have.
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Apr 2, 2010 22:57
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Swags posted:What's a wash? And why is it recommended? Pretty much what Khadul said, but to expand on it; A wash is a thin ink solution that runs into the crevices and low points on a model, while slightly tinting (but ideally not pooling on) the raised parts. What this means is; if you apply an ink wash of a darker shade to a color, it instantly creates a bit of shading, since it gathers in the places most likely to be in shadow. You can also use it as a glaze to soften/blend highlighting, since it tints the raised areas with the same color. So say you're painting a skeleton - a quick way to do it would be to paint the whole thing Bleached Bone, then apply a Devlan Mud wash. The eye sockets, between the ribs, teeth, joints etc would all end up a brown-ish color, adding instant definition. EDIT: Beaten. And I was looking for that page too!
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Apr 2, 2010 23:00
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I need some advice. I've had some Ork Goff rockers for a long time now, but been wanting something decent to put on their bases other than sand/flock/grass. It seems impossible to find anything like industrial grip metal textured plasticard here (England), so I'm wondering what you guys might suggest as a good "stage" like basing material.
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Apr 3, 2010 00:41
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stabbington posted:Keep your tools properly lubricated, or you will lose your loving mind. I keep a little cup of water and a little tube of ky jelly for greenstuffing. It sounds weird, but KY is water based so it doesn't really hurt anything, and once it's on your sculpting tools you don't have to worry about greenstuff sticking to it as it dries. I use it for doing tool-free tire changes on my road bike too, you get some funny faces when you're on a group ride and pull out a tube of ky when it's time to change a flat.
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Apr 3, 2010 01:10
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Should I be thinning Foundation paints? I've been doing roughly 1:1 water mix with hormagaunt purple on white primer and this is my first time painting "properly" so I'm not sure what it should look like at first. It takes 2-3 watery coats to get a light purple color. Also, liche purple/shining gold emperor's children csm. I used a chaos black/future floor wax wash but the result is too dark for me. What color is generally used to brighten models for washes? Sorry for lack my pictures don't got a camera with me at the moment. quote:I need some advice. Try finding some wireform mesh used in clay sculpting. Not sure how they're priced in the UK but I picked a pack for cheap at a dollar store yum fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Apr 3, 2010 |
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Apr 3, 2010 01:12
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yum posted:Should I be thinning Foundation paints? I've been doing roughly 1:1 water mix with hormagaunt purple on white primer and this is my first time painting "properly" so I'm not sure what it should look like at first. It takes 2-3 watery coats to get a light purple color. Thats about what you want, maybe a liiiitle more paint in the water, but thats it  Add a little purple to the wash, that should lighten it more without changing the color tone.
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Apr 3, 2010 01:32
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Do any of you modelling types have any ideas on a good material to use for making a Webway Portal? I like the look of the thin bone towers in the Eldar codex and I'm wondering what they might have used to make those. A Webway Portal would be thicker than they are but any ideas about materials would be awesome. Basically I want a similar design to the Dawn of War one, so it tapers in towards the middle, making plasticard construction a big project.
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Apr 3, 2010 01:54
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You could try using that dense pink insulation foam? People use it for shaping all kinds of terrain, if you have a hot knife or whatever you call those things it would probably help. Its generally dense enough to hold up and you could hit it with white glue to strengthen it.
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Apr 3, 2010 02:19
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FractionMan posted:I need some advice. Here you go mate http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/gbu0-catshow/25mmround.html for industrial bases (30pence each aint bad!) http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/gbu0-prodshow/singletreadplate.html for industrial diamond plate sheets Teadrinker fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Apr 3, 2010 |
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Apr 3, 2010 02:26
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Morning posted:Thats about what you want, maybe a liiiitle more paint in the water, but thats it Cool, thanks!
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Apr 3, 2010 02:44
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PaintVagrant posted:With what, exactly? Im considering doing more sculpting and modelling, and I run into this problem a lot. I generally just stick the tool in my mouth (lol) every 30 seconds or so Water. Plain ol' water. Three reasons. 1) Water is everywhere. 2) It cleans itself by evaporating, leaving no residue. 3) It is non-reactive, being water and all.
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Apr 3, 2010 05:23
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That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. I wonder if some sort of really thin tool-grade oil might work, I know almost nothing about that kind of stuff though
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Apr 3, 2010 06:03
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PaintVagrant posted:That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. Vaseline if you're fastidious about cleaning it off, ky if you just want to rinse it off.
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Apr 3, 2010 06:18
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set up the lightbox, set up the lights, turn on the room light, set up the tripod, place high elves in light box, manual focus camera, press button dead battery
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Apr 3, 2010 06:28
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PaintVagrant posted:That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. Use a 60/40 blue:yellow mix instead of 50/50, the yellow is what gives it the tackiness.
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Apr 3, 2010 06:40
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So I painted some    I really like this scheme and my lovely photography doesn't do it justice.
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Apr 3, 2010 07:22
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those are really cool. i like the eye motif on some of the helmets. will you be leaving the designs on the breast plates white? I kind of like the one that is all washed gold better.
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Apr 3, 2010 08:21
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Teadrinker posted:Here you go mate Those links are perfect, thanks!
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Apr 3, 2010 10:10
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Bullet Proof posted:pv you should do a desert scheme like these guys. heh you gullible fools all they did was save a normally painted model's picture as a jpeg in MSPaint. 
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Apr 3, 2010 11:13
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PaintVagrant posted:That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. I'm telling you, liquid ky. They sell it at the pharmacy for like $4 for the tiny tube, it sounds weird but it works incredibly well, and since it's water based excess residue can be wiped off with a paper towel once the gs has set.
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Apr 3, 2010 11:20
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crime fighting hog posted:So I painted some Woah, Totally not what I expected when you first mentioned your scheme but  those are some awesome looking elves. What did colours did you use on the mail as I uh would like to know for uh research 
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Apr 3, 2010 12:06
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FractionMan posted:Those links are perfect, thanks! Thinking about it, although it might be too late now. I have a few spare diamond plate bases... how many do you need?
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Apr 3, 2010 13:08
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Another vote for vaseline here. I just dip my tools in the jar and then wipe off 95% of it using a tissue leaving only a verryy thin coat. After the GS has dried I use one of those cotton swab sticks on the GS to wipe off the vaseline. Shiny -> dull in the light and continue working from there. Seems to do the work for me
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Apr 3, 2010 15:31
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Ill try the ky, vasseline, sexual experimentation
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Apr 3, 2010 15:34
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crime fighting hog posted:So I painted some The gold's looking good on those thing, and the red compliments it really well. Great job.
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Apr 3, 2010 15:47
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PaintVagrant posted:That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. Give it 10-15 minutes before you start working. It'll lose the insanely tacky edge. This does cut into your workable time with it though. Doing that makes colours shapers + water work fine. crime fighting hog posted:So I painted some https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNUXXCwlm-s They look good.
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Apr 3, 2010 15:49
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PaintVagrant posted:Ill try the ky, vasseline, sexual experimentation I wonder how well silicone based lube would work.
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Apr 3, 2010 15:52
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Teadrinker posted:Thinking about it, although it might be too late now. I have a few spare diamond plate bases... how many do you need? I've already ordered £15 of bases and other bits from there and so have more than I need now, many thanks for the offer however.
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Apr 3, 2010 16:28
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PaintVagrant posted:That just doesnt seem to do the trick, the GS is instantly tacky. GS is awful. Are you dead set on using it? There are a lot of other polymer clays that are less like chewing gum.
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Apr 3, 2010 16:36
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