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Papercut posted:This seems like a dumb question to me, but I don't know where else to ask so here goes. Also, code requires pipes and wires be at least 1.25" back from the face of the studs; if it's closer, code requires thick protective metal plates be installed to protect them from homeowners installing shelves. If you think you're hitting one of these... go to plan B, don't just drill through it. Honestly, for a picture, just use one of those little 1-nail drywall hooks. The bigger ones are rated to 30lbs, 50lbs or more- they really can take a lot of weight. grover fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Apr 2, 2010 |
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Apr 2, 2010 21:06
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grover posted:Are you sure it's woodframe? That's exactly what happens if you have concrete walls with drywood installed over furring strips. An easy way to tell is how thick the walls are- 1914 did not use thick insulated walls like we have today; if your walls are 4" thick, it's wood frame. If they're 8" or more, there's concrete block under there. You may be able to tell by taking off the cover of exterior electrical outlets, too. You can still fasten shelves, etc, to concrete block, you'll just need to predrill with a masonry bit and use masonry screws. The appraisal lists exterior walls as stucco/wood, and they look like they're less than 8" thick. I have to replace a receptacle cover on one of the walls, so maybe I'll see if I can see anything while I have it off. Thanks for the info, though. I'm thinking my situation might be the latter, with the protective metal barrier.
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Apr 2, 2010 21:30
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I had a towel rack pull of a wall in my bathroom and it seems to have taken some of the wall with it. The wall is paint over fiberboard(?) or something, I don't think there's any wallpaper as such. When the towel rack pulled off it took the paint and a thin layer of the wood(? - kinda feels like rough cardboard) off with it, so if I just repainted it there would be a slight dent/depression. Does anyone know a cost-effective way to fix this? The tear is a few inches across.
ShardPhoenix fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Apr 3, 2010 |
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Apr 3, 2010 07:05
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That sounds like some type of cheap paneling. How deep is the hole? If it's just painted over and doesn't have an embedded pattern to match, you might be able to just patch it with drywall mud or spackle, then sand flat. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Apr 3, 2010 |
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Apr 3, 2010 07:18
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kid sinister posted:That sounds like some type of cheap paneling. How deep is the hole?
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Apr 3, 2010 07:36
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Wagonburner posted:Anyone ever put a trampoline together? I just bought one for my babbys and hoping to find a time to get it put together before christmas. I did one last weekend. You need to space the springs evenly because if you put them all on one side first you'd end up with 40 springs pulling against one. It took me about an hour from unboxing it to having it all assembled, it really isn't a big deal.
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Apr 3, 2010 10:04
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I'm trying to make my study a little nicer- our rabbit's supplies used to take up much of the room, but she died a few weeks ago and we'd like to try to utilize our space the best we can. There are many issues, though. We live in a 100 year old house, which means it's beautiful and odd. No rooms are square, and the study is the strangest of them. One angled wall with a giant window, a strange 3" hump in the longest wall (no idea why it's there), a nook created by the closet, and a closet door. Also, we have a bunch of stuff. The large, deep closet is occupied by cat boxes. The door to the closet stays closed, and cats get in via a flap. To make up for the lost closet space, there is a large wardrobe occupying the nook adjacent to the closet. We use the study for both computing and music work, so there's a big fuckin L-shaped desk- one leaf that contains our PC and accessories, the other holds a Wurlitzer keyboard. Then there's the electric piano and its stand, an amp, and several guitars on stands. We want to utilize our high ceilings by putting in some floor to ceiling bookcases with a library ladder, and if we keep the layout as is, put some wall shelves above the desk. It just seems to me like there must be better way to arrange the room so that I can have more bookcases, but a funky wall or a bigass piece of furniture always gets in the way. I'm hoping that a fresh brain will take a look at the room and be able to tell me some great way of reconfiguring everything. Here's the current layout, missing guitars and amp because they can go pretty much anywhere. Right now, I plan on putting the bookcases on the back wall behind the piano, next to the hump in the wall.  Click here for the full 1152x792 image.
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Apr 3, 2010 19:54
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ShardPhoenix posted:The hole is only about 1mm deep. I'm not sure what an embedded pattern is but I don't think it has one. I was just worried that your paneling had something like vertical grooves pressed into it so that it looks like individual wooden slats. It sounds like it's just flat then. Spackle and sand away!
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Apr 3, 2010 23:58
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Melicious posted:The large, deep closet is occupied by cat boxes. The door to the closet stays closed, and cats get in via a flap. To make up for the lost closet space, there is a large wardrobe occupying the nook adjacent to the closet. The obvious one that jumps out at me is the closet - litter trays are on the floor, all the space above it is wasted yes? Why not put a nice strong shelf above the litter trays to regain that space?
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Apr 4, 2010 12:30
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kid sinister posted:I was just worried that your paneling had something like vertical grooves pressed into it so that it looks like individual wooden slats. It sounds like it's just flat then. Spackle and sand away!
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Apr 4, 2010 13:56
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Oy - stab in the dark before I waste $75 on a tech to fix what is probably a very simple problem. I've got a Totaline P374-1800 thermostat. Out of nowhere, the thing decided it would stay on. Regardless of what heating/cooling setting I chose, the AC was blowing. I turned it off at the breaker - that showed em! But if I turned the breaker back on, AC came back on. Again, regardless of setting. So I did a complete reset of the unit. That worked fine, everything's back up, but now the AC won't come on. And also, the clock on the thermostat isn't running - it just sits at whatever time I program it for. The two seem strangely linked. Does anyone have any ideas, again, before I have to waste $75 to have a tech come push 3 buttons?
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Apr 4, 2010 20:34
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Cakefool posted:The obvious one that jumps out at me is the closet - litter trays are on the floor, all the space above it is wasted yes? Why not put a nice strong shelf above the litter trays to regain that space? Ah yeah, I should have mentioned- all the floor space in the closet is taken up by litterboxes, but there are some shelves in there that we use for storage. We don't have as much vertical space in there, though- it's a slanted ceiling in that part of the room.
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Apr 5, 2010 01:31
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MC Fruit Stripe posted:Oy - stab in the dark before I waste $75 on a tech to fix what is probably a very simple problem. I suppose this might be really ridiculously obvious, but: the thermostat in my house runs on a battery. If yours does... try putting in a new one?
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Apr 5, 2010 08:28
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Melicious posted:Ah yeah, I should have mentioned- all the floor space in the closet is taken up by litterboxes, but there are some shelves in there that we use for storage. We don't have as much vertical space in there, though- it's a slanted ceiling in that part of the room. Is the closet door the lower one? Would you consider either knocking it out or extending it? What about building in a desk to fit the top left space rather than wedging 2 together? Do you have a budget for this? How handy are you? What do you use the desks for? Based on this I'll sketchup something later today, making the most of silly little spaces has unfortunately become my Forte'.
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Apr 5, 2010 10:57
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Cakefool posted:Is the closet door the lower one? Yeah, the closet door is the lower one. No, I don't want to move any walls or anything... it's not really in my budget, and I want to keep the building in its original state as far as room shapes go. Plus, the closet doesn't bother me, the space is well-utilized inside of it. It's more the weird angles and hump in the back wall that vex me. The 2 desks are, in fact, one big L-shaped desk. It was just easier to make two rectangular vectors than one L-shaped one. It is an ugly fuckin desk, but I haven't seen much that I've liked to replace it. The desk has my PC and printer on one leg, and a music keyboard on the other. I use them together often, so I need to have the two adjacent to eachother... or at least reachable from the same chair. As for how handy I am, well, I guess that depends on your definition of handy. I come from a very long line of handymen and do-it-yourselfers (my dad built our garage as a kid, both he and my grandfather designed and built their own cars, etc), but I've never really done much. I'm good with a power drill and have the desire to do poo poo myself, but just haven't had the need or opportunity. I built a closet in another bizarre nook here, but that's about the extent of my experience with this kind of thing. Looking forward to what you come up with! I just bought a bunch of the shelving for my bookcases yesterday... and a library ladder 
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Apr 5, 2010 17:41
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Melicious posted:The desk has my PC and printer on one leg, and a music keyboard on the other. I use them together often, so I need to have the two adjacent to eachother... or at least reachable from the same chair. Ok, last questions, 1/ Are you attached to the wardrobe/does it hold value for you/could you use it elsewhere in the house? 2/ Are you attached to the desks/do they hold value for you/could you use them elsewhere in the house? 3/ How much use does the piano get? Does it need to be near the window or desk? At the moment I'm leaning towards putting the piano in the nook, vertical storage/wardrobe in the top left with a built-in desk coming down the left slope wall to the lower wall, building around the hump, as so: Okay, excuse the MS paint but I don't have any CAD on this laptop.  This leaves you either to put the wardrobe on the top wall or ditch it & build in a slightly thinner cupboard on the short left wall. You'll need to build a desk but the easy way out is to get 2 desktops from Ikea, cut the ends sloping where needed. You can go all out & put shelves & cubbies above/below the desks as per your needs.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:22
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Is there a way to safely drill a hole into a glass bottle?
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Apr 6, 2010 15:45
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unleash the unicorn posted:Is there a way to safely drill a hole into a glass bottle? I did it in shop class way back when. We used some modeling clay to make a ring around the area to be drilled, filled that ring with water, then drilled it with a press. Uneven heating in glass will cause it to fracture, so the water acted as a heat sink. It also gathers up all the glass dust so you aren't breathing it. I don't recall if we used a special type of drill bit. If you are making a lamp, you'll want to put a rubber grommet in there to keep the cord from getting sliced on the sharp edges of the hole. Except you aren't making a lamp because the only people that make lamps out of glass bottles are people in 8th grade shop class. If you were in 8th grade shop class, you wouldn't be asking this question because your shop teacher would have already told you these things and you wouldn't be asking here. Anyway, for your bong, you should still use grommets. They will make sure you get a good seal around the pipe shaft and keep your stoned rear end from slicing up your thumb on the carb. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 15:58
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Actually I want it as a planting pot (not even for "pot") and I need the hole for drainage. But thank you very much for answering my question!
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Apr 6, 2010 16:12
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unleash the unicorn posted:Actually I want it as a planting pot (not even for "pot") and I need the hole for drainage. But thank you very much for answering my question! Think of the possibilities though. Plants need a place to grow and you are building a planter out of a glass bottle. They also need light to grow and you can make a lamp out of a glass bottle. Plants are smokable and you can make a bong out of a glass bottle. You could drill 3 holes, install 2 grommets and have a swiss army bong that refills itself.
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Apr 6, 2010 16:25
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You'll need to get a special glass-drilling bit. I've picked them up at Home Depot and my local hardware store before.
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Apr 6, 2010 16:42
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Can someone tell me why my carbon monoxide detector keeps beeping intermittently? It does it like once every 30 seconds. I thought it was the battery so I put a brand new one in there but it keeps beeping, even after reset it. It's really annoying  .
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Apr 6, 2010 19:10
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Richard Noggin posted:You'll need to get a special glass-drilling bit. I've picked them up at Home Depot and my local hardware store before. A normal ceramic tile-cutting bit will work.
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Apr 6, 2010 19:10
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Yeet posted:Can someone tell me why my carbon monoxide detector keeps beeping intermittently? It does it like once every 30 seconds. I thought it was the battery so I put a brand new one in there but it keeps beeping, even after reset it. It's really annoying
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Apr 6, 2010 19:40
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grover posted:How old is it? CO detectors only last about 10 years. Hmm I'm not sure to be honest. The building I'm living in is just about 9 years old so that could be the case.
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Apr 6, 2010 21:05
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Maybe there's an elevated level of CO hanging around? (That is to say... maybe it's working  )
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Apr 6, 2010 21:10
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I want to replace the air return filter on a house I have moved into. It is on the ceiling directly above the stairs. I have stared at it for days now trying to think of how to get to it. Even if I put a ladder on a stair step, there is no where for it to rest. Here is a wonderful diagram:  What the gently caress?
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Apr 7, 2010 19:18
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Associate Christ
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 That is a Little Giant. There is a cheaper version made by Werner. I have one and it's the poo poo. Heavy as gently caress though Edit: Have someone hold the ladder for you
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Apr 7, 2010 19:21
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I want to replace the air return filter on a house I have moved into. Sure there is...  you could also work up a stilt for the lower side of the ladder with a pair of 2x4s screwed face to face, then cut away one board at the end, place a ladder leg on that new step and tie a rope around the board going up the ladder leg now.
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Apr 7, 2010 19:40
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kid sinister posted:Sure there is... I like your diagram, but that wouldn't work in real life. The ladder would be so close to horizontal then that it wouldn't give you any extra reach. That "Little Giant" might work. I don't really want to buy a ladder for one specific task, but I suppose I will have to do it often enough. . .
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Apr 7, 2010 20:34
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I bought that ladder because it will adjust to stepladder, extension ladder, or scaffold - it's an "only ladder you'll ever need" type of deal. It's just drat heavy.
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Apr 7, 2010 20:36
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Here is how I would do it:
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Apr 7, 2010 21:45
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I like your diagram, but that wouldn't work in real life. The ladder would be so close to horizontal then that it wouldn't give you any extra reach. Then lay a board across one of the stair landing and one of the higher rungs. I also got one of those Little Giant ladders. It takes for loving ever to adjust and you can't do it in a small space without chipping the paint.
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Apr 8, 2010 01:18
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I want to replace the air return filter on a house I have moved into. I put in a chandelier instead. I had a similar argument with the city about smoke detector placement, but lost out. I suppose smoke detectors with dead batteries are somehow preferable to working smoke detectors that are slightly lower.
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Apr 8, 2010 01:57
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Or you could just get hardwired smoke detectors with no batteries to replace.
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Apr 8, 2010 02:39
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kid sinister posted:Or you could just get hardwired smoke detectors with no batteries to replace.
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Apr 8, 2010 02:44
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Do hardware stores carry torx screwdriver sets? I'm in need of a set for a couple of projects (some electronics repairs), but I'm not sure if I should order online and wait for them to be shipped or go to the store and buy them tonight.
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Apr 9, 2010 00:05
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I'm in the midst of bathroom demo. There is subfloor rot in one area and some work will need to be done to sister joists What is the best method to remove the tile and plywood substrate? (no backerboard was used) My concern with a prybar is that it will damage the salvageable subfloor in the non rotted ares
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Apr 9, 2010 01:06
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MaakHatt posted:Do hardware stores carry torx screwdriver sets? I'm in need of a set for a couple of projects (some electronics repairs), but I'm not sure if I should order online and wait for them to be shipped or go to the store and buy them tonight. Yes, many stores carry commonly needed products such as Torx screwdrivers.
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Apr 9, 2010 01:39
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MaakHatt posted:Do hardware stores carry torx screwdriver sets? I'm in need of a set for a couple of projects (some electronics repairs), but I'm not sure if I should order online and wait for them to be shipped or go to the store and buy them tonight. Yes, Sears carries them in their regular and Sears Hardware stores, guaranteed forever. They have them as screwdrivers, bits, sockets or foldup tools. They even have the tamperproof torx. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Apr 9, 2010 |
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Apr 9, 2010 17:37
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