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richyp posted:I thought you were kidding but... Well if I spent that much time holding a paintbrush I'd want a severe pain reliever too.
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Apr 9, 2010 20:44
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If your models are primarily gold/bone with only a squad or squad leader being primarily turquoise I think it'll turn out okay, even with aspect warriors replacing the turquoise for another muted colour. Try your hand at bright white eyes and stones. It's the only thing I can think of that wouldn't clash with the other colours. Bone base and weapons, gold details and plates, squad colours for cloth and white eyes. Sounds like an idea to me. Models could have more gold detail the more important they were, too.
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Apr 9, 2010 20:55
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah I guess what Im saying is if youre going to use reds/greens, make sure they are somewhat muted and not straight out of the pot intense I was thinking of using something like Scab Red and possibly Cayman Green (which is the equivalent of Knarloc, I think) - they're both quite dark. You said 'straight out of the pot intense' - beyond picking a more subdued shade, is there something I should do (besides regular thinning) to mute the color?
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Apr 9, 2010 21:01
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Mix it with a grey, or mix it with its compliment (opposing color on color wheel) So blood red + a touch of green = a less intense red
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Apr 9, 2010 21:04
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PV - Have you gotten a chance to try out those WN Series 7 mini brushes yet?
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Apr 10, 2010 02:40
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SkunkDuster posted:PV - Have you gotten a chance to try out those WN Series 7 mini brushes yet? I just got it in the mail today, ordered a 000. Its loving super tiny, a lot less hair than the 000 regular s7 I have, so I assume it will be even awesomer for tiny highlights and such. But no, havent actually used it yet 
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Apr 10, 2010 02:50
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PaintVagrant posted:I just got it in the mail today, ordered a 000. Its loving super tiny, a lot less hair than the 000 regular s7 I have, so I assume it will be even awesomer for tiny highlights and such. See-I don't like brushes that are like fifteen bristles thick. They just don't hold any paint and you end up having to use thicker pain and you get thin little raised highlights instead of nice smooth ones. The smallest brush I ever use is a 00, and even that is just for black lining or super fine work.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:54
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!amicable posted:See-I don't like brushes that are like fifteen bristles thick. They just don't hold any paint and you end up having to use thicker pain and you get thin little raised highlights instead of nice smooth ones. The smallest brush I ever use is a 00, and even that is just for black lining or super fine work. The base is still relatively thick, I think it will still load paint fairly well. Also, since s7s are such good sable, they tend to hold more paint than most brushes anyways
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Apr 10, 2010 02:55
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PaintVagrant posted:The base is still relatively thick, I think it will still load paint fairly well. Yeah it works out. The only 00 I use is a WN water color sable. It's pretty sexy. It's funny because when I do oils I really like stiff bristles. It's like I am trying to attack my canvas and force that poo poo to be awesome. Oil is more about pushing pigment though; at least that's more or less how I was taught. Maybe I am being stingy with my medium.
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Apr 10, 2010 02:58
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I've been painting Chan Lee from Hell Dorado and I'm pretty happy with how I've gotten his flesh, but I'm having real trouble with the red pants. I need some pointers on making the red really pop. Here's a w.i.p shot: Nothing really finished yet, so if you have some advice on the flesh as well I'd like to hear it  Also here's a size comparison for fun 
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Apr 10, 2010 03:26
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Red is a complete pain to highlight. I've had luck building it up to pink and then red inking over.
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Apr 10, 2010 03:29
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Bullet Proof posted:I've been painting Chan Lee from Hell Dorado and I'm pretty happy with how I've gotten his flesh, but I'm having real trouble with the red pants. I need some pointers on making the red really pop. Here's a w.i.p shot: Dude, that is loving sexy. My trick for red is to shade to purple and edge highlight yellow sparingly. I dunno. Push the darks a bit, I might not edge highlight cloth like that. e: and make the belt a different color than the pants, it will do a good job of breaking up the area.
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Apr 10, 2010 03:32
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moths posted:Red is a complete pain to highlight. I've had luck building it up to pink and then red inking over. !amicable posted:Dude, that is loving sexy. Thanks guys, I'll give these a try. And I was considering painting the belt yellow, but that's probably just as hard to paint. If I can't get the red working I might still give it a try.
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Apr 10, 2010 03:43
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For those of you who practice the mystical art of sticking-plasticard-under-feet to avoid the sunken effect when sanding bases, what do you do with the metal ones ? 1) Clip the tab off, stick it on plasticard and pin to a closed base. 2) Trim the tab so it's just under the feet, add plasticard and then GS fill the big gap in the base. 3) Other.
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Apr 10, 2010 04:00
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Def push shade for the red darker, red isnt really about highlights, its about shades. RapeyJ: I will sometimes just put a slice of plasticard under both sides of the slot, so the tab and feet are all at the same level, just higher than the rest of the base. If Im not lazy, Ill hack the tab off and pin a foot through the base
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Apr 10, 2010 05:03
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Rikthor posted:Primer problem, I was using GW's White primer and after letting it dry I found multiple places where the primer "cracked" and some fuzzy primer spots as well. Is this all due to humidity? The reason I ask, is because I also primed the base of the model(was seperate) with P3's black primer and had no issues other than it takes longer to dry. Just trying to find out where the flub up I made is at. Humidity and/or distance from the model in question are the two most likely culprits for your priming woes. Speaking of primer, I have found the absolute best primer on the mutha fuckin' planet. This poo poo gives a butter smooth finish, no loss of detail, and as far as I know, isn't affected by humidity. Example: thanks to a windy day, I primed literally 4 inches away from the models in question, and even so close, no loss of detail. Even with the smooth finish, it takes to paint better than any other primer I have used. Rust-Oleum. Get you some.
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Apr 10, 2010 05:24
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Well, I finally started sculpting work on my Greeks.  The unit looks a bit sparse because only half are placed so far. I'm only going three-deep, but it'll be a total of 18 guys/unit. Besides giving the phalanx oven-mitts, I converted one into a commander:  They're 10mm, which is quickly becoming my favorite scale ever. The pikes are paperclips, and the general's base is a US nickel.
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Apr 10, 2010 06:22
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So, MSP sort of inspired me to take a different look at the whole Sternguard Combi-Weapon deal... So, with some kitbashing, I got this, my final Sternguard, a work in progress. Venerable Dread helmet, Sanguine Guard pretty much everything else, with all the blood drops and overt Blood Angels crap cut and filed off. Also the nipples--I wanted it to look more like, you know, armor, than a loving Chippendale's Marine. Anyways, since a Combi-Weapon can only be fired once, I figured the wrist-mounted meltagun would do the trick. So where the gently caress is the bolter, you may ask.  It's on his back, neatly slung in a holster (a neat bit from the attack bike sprue that I haven't until now found a use for). I'm not sure how he would grab it, but hey, not a lot of things make sense in the grim darkness of the far future. So, I ask you goons: Does it look as ridiculous as I fear it does? 
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Apr 10, 2010 06:52
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I don't actually know a whole lot about the grim dystopian future of warhammer.. but isn't that holstered pistol right in the path of one of the exhaust ports on his jump pack?
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Apr 10, 2010 06:56
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Tactical Bonnet posted:I don't actually know a whole lot about the grim dystopian future of warhammer.. but isn't that holstered pistol right in the path of one of the exhaust ports on his jump pack? Just a regular backpack. Sternguard don't hop around like assault marines do. That being said, yeah, it is kind of in the way, but it's just a vent. VVVVVVVV EDIT: So I decided they are snaps. They come undone with a bit of a tug. Booya. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 06:59
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How is he even supposed to reach the straps?
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Apr 10, 2010 07:00
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:For those of you who practice the mystical art of sticking-plasticard-under-feet to avoid the sunken effect when sanding bases, what do you do with the metal ones ? I leave the whole tab on, glue the plasticard scraps onto the base at the edges of the slot, just where the feet will stand, and then glue the model in. Sort of like PV's slot heightening but just under the feet. If the tab sticks above the surface of the base a lot, I might file it down a bit. It's fiddly though, I've been meaning to try option 1 for a while, it's probably a better way overall.
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Apr 10, 2010 10:50
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:For those of you who practice the mystical art of sticking-plasticard-under-feet to avoid the sunken effect when sanding bases, what do you do with the metal ones ? Cut the tab so it only exists under the feet, cram slivers of plasticard at the sides of the minitab
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Apr 10, 2010 11:40
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Quick question, what size base for a 40k Lord of change?
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Apr 10, 2010 15:29
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CyberLord XP posted:Quick question, what size base for a 40k Lord of change? I want to say 60mm, like a Dreadnought, but then again stuff like the Daemon Prince comes with a 40mm one soooo...
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Apr 10, 2010 15:32
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bhsman posted:I want to say 60mm, like a Dreadnought, but then again stuff like the Daemon Prince comes with a 40mm one soooo... It's 60mm for all greater demons.
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Apr 10, 2010 15:34
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Bullet Proof posted:I've been painting Chan Lee from Hell Dorado and I'm pretty happy with how I've gotten his flesh, but I'm having real trouble with the red pants. I need some pointers on making the red really pop. Here's a w.i.p shot: http://blog.ironagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/fight-club07-003.jpg I highlighted red a lot in my Menoth army. Best way I know (using P3 range) is Sanguine Base/Skorne Red/think highlight of Khador Red Base. Gives stuff a rich, deep red.
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Apr 10, 2010 16:35
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I'm planning to start painting this Farseer later today for my green-themed craftworld. I'm thinking of doing green for the outer robe and sleeves, but for the life of me I can't decide on what color to go with on the inner robes. White seems like a good complimentary color but I don't want it to resemble Biel-Tan's color scheme any more than it already does. Any ideas?
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Apr 10, 2010 18:38
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bhsman posted:I'm planning to start painting this Farseer later today for my green-themed craftworld. I'm thinking of doing green for the outer robe and sleeves, but for the life of me I can't decide on what color to go with on the inner robes. White seems like a good complimentary color but I don't want it to resemble Biel-Tan's color scheme any more than it already does. warm grey, a bone color, dark grey/black?
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Apr 10, 2010 18:41
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Reddish brown, red, pink, orange, light/bright green, yellow... Maybe even some kind of blue.
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Apr 10, 2010 18:44
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The best model
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Apr 10, 2010 18:57
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Danger - Octopus! posted:The best model Gelatinous Cube. 
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Apr 10, 2010 19:01
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Danger - Octopus! posted:The best model  http://www.hirstarts.com/tips25/tips25.html#cubes
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Apr 10, 2010 19:19
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 Feels good man
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Apr 10, 2010 19:22
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X 
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  quote:Sculptor: Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 20:35
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I finished Perdita Ortega this week. I'm not to happy with her, but I figured if I messed around with her anymore she'd get even worse. Believe it or not, my painting setup is slightly better than what I had before. Too bad I can't leave stuff out and have to pack it all away everytime.  Anyone else remember Trinity: Battleground? Good, short-lived game, but terrible models. I found these and got them ready for my sub-contractors.  
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Apr 10, 2010 22:53
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KingMob posted:How are their references? <  >
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Apr 10, 2010 23:05
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All finished except the water effects:    
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Apr 10, 2010 23:35
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PaintVagrant posted:
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Apr 10, 2010 23:45
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The cadian bugs me. I'm sorry, I'm a huge human being, but being able to see that it's obviously half a cadian makes it look like... well, half a cadian, and not a half submerged body. Kinda takes me out of it. Everything else is ace and is better than anything I could ever possibly do given six years, though. e: derp i red gud nuncle jimbo fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 11, 2010 |
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Apr 11, 2010 00:04
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