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This may seem an odd thing to ask, but does anyone know where I can either buy or get fabbed a FMIC setup for my Mazdaspeed Protege for relatively cheap? I'm tired of the crappy stock sidemount doing absolutely nothing, and I'd loke to upgrade.
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Apr 14, 2010 02:57
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AkrisD posted:Here's something stupid for ya'll. What kind of truck should I be looking for? I've only owned small/sporty cars my entire life and that's all I've been interested in so I am way out of my element. I've recently come to the conclusion that my wife and I owning 2 miatas is kind of a pain in the rear end sometimes. All I need is it to have a big enough bed to carry a motorycycle/assorted house stuff. Also need and extended cab I guess so I can carry other people. Price range is approximately 10k, a little more or less isn't going to kill me. It's killing me that I'm so out of my element here. Depending on A. How big your bike is and B. how big your passengers are you can either go compact or full size. The size of the bed is obviously your most needed constraint. The other thing to note is that pretty much all the extended cab compact trucks have really limited rear seat room. I've been in the back of an S10, Dakota, Ranger, Sonoma, and a Frontier and have been really cramped in all of them. I'm 6' for reference. I mean, riding in it for short periods of time is fine, but if you have to be back there for more than an hour, it's not going to be a good time. Full size trucks however, I've found to be much roomier. The back seat of a Ram and F150 are quite spacious.
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Apr 14, 2010 04:52
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Lowclock posted:Those are seconds. You could make it go away if you really really wanted to. It's a little faster than seconds Cheap Bourbon posted:My dash clock blinks like that. I'd use a piece of black electrical tape to cover it if it bothers you that much. I just disconnected it. I have a clock on my CD player, and even non-fuctioning it looks better than having an empty hole. What a bother, shame on the fine Japanese engineers who made their clock unit blink, they have dishonored their family 
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Apr 14, 2010 05:19
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Ammanas posted:It's a little faster than seconds Did it keep accurate time? Usually they're driven directly off of the "seconds" divider line. Fast blinking usually means the clock is skewed.
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Apr 14, 2010 05:35
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I hope to christ this is the last stupid question I have for a long time. Wnnt to pull the thermostat housing off my car and snapped one of the bolts, no big deal they were old and the housing was leaky. Fortunately the head twisted off and left the rest of the bolt sitting proud. Went to but a new bolt in and it cross-threads immediately, I cannot make it thread properly. My guess is the old one was cross threaded when it was put in and seized. Is there any way of fixing this without trying to re-tap a hole in the side of my cylinder head? Here's the remnants of the old bolt for reference:  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Apr 14, 2010 15:04
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I am looking to get detailing done on my Mazdaspeed6 but have no context of what fair pricing is. In my area http://www.classicappreciation.com has a package for $239 that sounds as if it would return my car to like new status (even paint chip repair). I would like to do this annually following the harsh winter so a big price doesn't scare me away, but would prefer not to be ripped off. Do these services seen consistent with the price? Thanks! quote:Complete Detail:
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Apr 14, 2010 16:49
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If you get an ECU remap and they recommend high octane fuel, what happens if you use regular fuel? Do you lose all performance benefits? Just some? Do you damage the car? Furthermore, are octane booster additives and normal fuel viable? Just out of interest, I'm not going to get an ECU remap because I would be raped by insurance.
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Apr 14, 2010 17:11
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I've been trying to patch some holes in my exhaust. I managed to get a decently large hole covered with a cheap bandage and some quicksteel over it. I've got another hole down the line though, and I'm looking ways to cut costs. Would buying a roll of fiberglass joint tape effectively work the same as those muffler bandages? Like this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Drywall-Fiberglass-1-Pack/dp/B00125J3V4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1271261790&sr=8-1 In my mind, the logic is the same and buying a roll of the tape is cheaper than a smaller bandage. I know they don't work too well, but I've got a bit of quicksteel left and it's looking like a good option to double on it. No. 9 fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 14, 2010 |
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Apr 14, 2010 17:11
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Anjow posted:If you get an ECU remap and they recommend high octane fuel, what happens if you use regular fuel? Do you lose all performance benefits? Just some? Do you damage the car? Furthermore, are octane booster additives and normal fuel viable? No, it pings like a motherfucker. Don't get a goddamn performance tune, requiring goddamn high octane gas, then not loving use it. It's such a retarded conception that "your car will compensate for lower octane gas by pulling timing", which it does AFTER IT DETECTS DETONATION. The damage has already been done, and will continue to be done every time the ECU tries to run where it's been programed to do so. On that same note, octane booster additives will work. You can also sometimes get by with regular fuel if you never ask the car to do any work with the engine at all.
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Apr 14, 2010 17:31
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Yes, I was asking because on another forum a guy was saying it was okay, you just won't get the benefits. Which seemed counter-intuitive to me.
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Apr 14, 2010 17:57
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It also depends on the capabilities of the ECU and the code. Even a performance tune on an ECU that can self-adjust might be able to save itself if it encountered low octane fuel causing predetonation.
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Apr 14, 2010 18:02
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Anjow posted:Yes, I was asking because on another forum a guy was saying it was okay, you just won't get the benefits. Which seemed counter-intuitive to me. For Audi/VW 2.0T engines, APR has a program that lets you select your tune. So, you can have it set up for stock/91/93/100 and then pick the tune for the gas you are running. But, yes, you wouldn't want to run the 100 tune with 91 octane gas.
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Apr 14, 2010 18:47
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rockcity posted:Does anyone have any recommendation for leather repair products? A small, maybe 1/4 hole got punched into the side bolster in the rear seat of my RDX. It's real small, but it's bugging the crap out of me and I don't want it to get any bigger. It's black leather so color matching shouldn't be too bad. Honestly, I've seen DIY leather seat repairs before and they rarely look that great. Instead maybe look in the phone book for a leather/upholstery repair place - our shop has a guy that comes by does the repairs on-site.
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Apr 14, 2010 23:12
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If a modern car's synchronized manual transmission grinds on the 1-2 or 2-3 shift can double clutch technique be used to make these shifts without grinding? Or is double clutching just for downshifts?
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Apr 14, 2010 23:39
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Double-clutching will help your shifts, but chances are that flushing your mantran and refilling with the proper fluid will help them more.
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Apr 14, 2010 23:43
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So my dad's '98 Accord is stalling occasionally, speed doesn't seem to be a factor and it always starts immediately after cycling the key back to off and then restarting. I'm thinking...main relay or ignition control module? Those seem to be the two most common problems just from googling around.
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Apr 14, 2010 23:45
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Anjow posted:Yes, I was asking because on another forum a guy was saying it was okay, you just won't get the benefits. Which seemed counter-intuitive to me.
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Apr 15, 2010 01:04
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AkrisD posted:Here's something stupid for ya'll. What kind of truck should I be looking for? I've only owned small/sporty cars my entire life and that's all I've been interested in so I am way out of my element. I've recently come to the conclusion that my wife and I owning 2 miatas is kind of a pain in the rear end sometimes. All I need is it to have a big enough bed to carry a motorycycle/assorted house stuff. Also need and extended cab I guess so I can carry other people. Price range is approximately 10k, a little more or less isn't going to kill me. It's killing me that I'm so out of my element here. Here's the thing. Extended cabs on small trucks are useless for seating anyone. Adults can't fit without risking injury in an accident, and baby seats can't fit period. They're good for storing a bunch of stuff that you'd rather not leave in the bed. Light trucks have really small beds. 6' is a normal size, but it's so narrow, you can't fit a lot of stuff diagonally. Also, the fuel consumption difference between an I4 Colorado and a 5.3L V8 Chevy 1500 is $70 a year. So if you can find a screaming deal on a full size, go for it.
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Apr 15, 2010 01:20
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Stupid question but-- I've got a 99 Camry, four door, the front passenger door keeps registering ajar despite being firmly shut. It wouldn't be a tremendous problem but the door ajar light and the ignition light stay on unless all doors are "shut". I can press in on the upper part on the outside of the door and both lights will turn off but the instant I remove pressure they're back on. Any ideas on how to fix this problem?
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Apr 15, 2010 02:45
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica, without any roof rack. I am moving in June and would like to travel lightly, but I don't think the Celica will be quite enough. Is there any set-up where I could install a roof rack/luggage rack temporarily? It doesn't have to hold a ton of weight, I could put bulky clothes up there. Everything I'm finding on google is for cars with roof racks already on the car.
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Apr 15, 2010 03:38
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Is there any consensus on whether the Hyundai Tiburon is a decent car or not? I'm looking at a 2003 GT, but after that thread about the guy wanting to buy an Eclipse, I feel like I'm walking into the same trap.
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Apr 15, 2010 03:45
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1995 Cadillac deville (not mine) 200,000 or so miles Trans does nothing when shifted into gear. Interesting clattering noise coming from the end of the engine that has the trans on it. Checked the fluid level, seems fine. This problem happened suddenly, not gradually. Torque converter bad? Whole trans exploded?
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Apr 15, 2010 04:11
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Soulwrangler posted:Stupid question but-- I've got a 99 Camry, four door, the front passenger door keeps registering ajar despite being firmly shut. It wouldn't be a tremendous problem but the door ajar light and the ignition light stay on unless all doors are "shut". I can press in on the upper part on the outside of the door and both lights will turn off but the instant I remove pressure they're back on. There's probably a switch/sensor somewhere on the doorjamb that detects when the door is open or closed, and it's gotten stuck or gone bad. EDIT: to fix it, find the switch, and either fix it or replace it.
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Apr 15, 2010 04:25
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Sten Freak posted:Someone helped with a very detailed tire/wheel answer earlier in the thread but I'm still not sure how ratio aspect works here. They're different things. The 60 is the aspect ratio of the tyre (i.e. the tyre is 225mm wide and the sidewall is 60% of that high). The 50 is the offset of the rim In short the tyres will fit the rims fine but the rims may or may not be suitable for the vehicle (more information needed)
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Apr 15, 2010 05:39
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My 1995 Sentra is OBD2. It has the port, the ScanGauge 2 works in it (Although it doesn't see/clear the CEL 80% of the time), but it has what seems to be a OBD1 connector right below the fusebox. Is it possible to make a OBD 1/2 hybrid? Also, when I have the car in Drive or Reverse and stopped, it shakes like mad. If I'm moving, or have it in P or N, it's smooth as butter, which has me believing its something to do with the Tranny/Torque Converter, since it only shakes when the Tranny and Engine are physically connected and not rotating (Well, the tranny isn't rotating(If I'm wrong, please correct me on that)). I can't find anything on Google. Is it about to fail catastrophically? Also sounds like a can of angry bees when I accelerate, although I attribute that to old age.
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Apr 15, 2010 06:47
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1990 Honda Accord (lol) The ticking/chirping seems worse after just a couple days of driving a couple miles a day back and forth to work. I can't see the CV joint with the wheel on so I don't know if that's it, but does that sound more like brakes at this point or CV joint? Realistically, can I fix this at home with a set of jack stands, some beer, and an extra pair of hands? I'm strapped for cash, I don't want to pay someone to fix something I can do myself as long as I don't run a serious risk of loving something up. Any brands of spark plugs to avoid? It's tune up time.
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Apr 15, 2010 07:46
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NancyPants posted:Any brands of spark plugs to avoid? It's tune up time. Only use NGK plugs. None of that Bosch platinum 2/4 poo poo either. They just ping like a motherfucker. You can get a set of 4 OEM NGK plugs from your Honda dealer for about $10, tops. Enjoy.
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Apr 15, 2010 09:14
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PBCrunch posted:If a modern car's synchronized manual transmission grinds on the 1-2 or 2-3 shift can double clutch technique be used to make these shifts without grinding? Or is double clutching just for downshifts? insta posted:Double-clutching will help your shifts, but chances are that flushing your mantran and refilling with the proper fluid will help them more. First of all I would like to clarify and say that the car in question is a 1992 Honda Accord DX coupe with a manual transmission and 238k miles. I was kind of thinking the same thing so I happened to have some genuine OEM JDM kawaii virgin blood Honda MTF fluid on hand at the house. The trans had been filled with 10W-30 about four months ago when the clutch was replaced (the FSM says 10W-30 is okay to use). I made sure the fill plug would come loose before I opened the drain plug and then drained the old regular motor oil and refilled with H-MTF. For the record I hate changing manual transmission fluid. I replaced the halfshafts on my brother-in-law's 1999 Nissan Maxima a couple of weeks ago. I hosed up and didn't get the driver's side axle seated all the way the first time so I ended up having to fill it with gear oil twice. The stuff stinks, it takes forever to put in because it is so thick, and the drain and fill holes are in ridiculous locations that require the use of funnels and tubing which inevitably gets kinked up and further impeded the flow of fluid. I am pissed off just thinking about it. I drove it a couple miles and did some high rpm shifts and it still grinds on the 1-2 unless you go really slow and grinds on the 2-3 if you go too fast. It is significantly improved though. When a clutch is replaced should the clutch hydraulics normally be bled? This car had the clutch master and slave cylinders replaced about two years ago when the car had the factory clutch with 200k miles or so. The clutch was replaced about four months ago but we did not bleed it again. Should we have?
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Apr 15, 2010 11:47
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NancyPants posted:You can replace this yourself, assuming you have a descent selection of tools, and some patience. You'll need an alignment afterwards. You aren't likely to need assistance for this job. Also, don't drink too much beer while working. I buy NGK or Champion plugs, for both automotive and small engine needs.
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Apr 15, 2010 13:17
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TraderStav posted:I am looking to get detailing done on my Mazdaspeed6 but have no context of what fair pricing is. In my area http://www.classicappreciation.com has a package for $239 that sounds as if it would return my car to like new status (even paint chip repair). I would like to do this annually following the harsh winter so a big price doesn't scare me away, but would prefer not to be ripped off. Do these services seen consistent with the price? Thanks! That is a lot of work for that money. I'd go for it if it were my car and I didn't have the time to do it myself. Hell, when I do have the time to do it myself, I don't do all of that. e: If this guy is as good as he's presenting himself, he will likely have a portfolio of some before and afters. Wouldn't hurt to ask.
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Apr 15, 2010 13:36
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Soulwrangler posted:Stupid question but-- I've got a 99 Camry, four door, the front passenger door keeps registering ajar despite being firmly shut. It wouldn't be a tremendous problem but the door ajar light and the ignition light stay on unless all doors are "shut". I can press in on the upper part on the outside of the door and both lights will turn off but the instant I remove pressure they're back on. Is that door flush with the rest of the bodywork? Many door sensors have been integrated into the latch mechanism (not sure about your Camry), leading to that kind of problem popping up if the latch gets out of adjustment.
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Apr 15, 2010 15:14
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Dradien posted:Also, when I have the car in Drive or Reverse and stopped, it shakes like mad. If I'm moving, or have it in P or N, it's smooth as butter, which has me believing its something to do with the Tranny/Torque Converter, since it only shakes when the Tranny and Engine are physically connected and not rotating (Well, the tranny isn't rotating(If I'm wrong, please correct me on that)). I can't find anything on Google. Is it about to fail catastrophically? Not sure about your OBD question, but the vibration problem you're describing is very possibly a bad motor/trans mount. Protege's are known to have this exact description of symptoms when the rubber in the mount has worn away. It has to do with the engine vibrating more while at a lower idle, which it is when the trans is engaged but the car isn't moving. Pretty easy fix.
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Apr 15, 2010 15:41
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PBCrunch posted:When a clutch is replaced should the clutch hydraulics normally be bled? This car had the clutch master and slave cylinders replaced about two years ago when the car had the factory clutch with 200k miles or so. The clutch was replaced about four months ago but we did not bleed it again. Should we have? I've always bled the slave cyl after doing a clutch job. They always seem to leak a little. Couldn't hurt to try. e: I'm a DP monster. Double Post... assholes.
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Apr 15, 2010 15:46
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ab0z posted:1995 Cadillac deville (not mine) Anyone have experience with these cars and trans work?
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Apr 15, 2010 16:53
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TraderStav posted:I am looking to get detailing done on my Mazdaspeed6 but have no context of what fair pricing is. In my area http://www.classicappreciation.com has a package for $239 that sounds as if it would return my car to like new status (even paint chip repair). I would like to do this annually following the harsh winter so a big price doesn't scare me away, but would prefer not to be ripped off. Do these services seen consistent with the price? Thanks! Yes. Anjow posted:...Just out of interest, I'm not going to get an ECU remap because I would be raped by insurance. How would insurance "rape" you for an ECU remap? It's not something I think anyone would report...
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Apr 15, 2010 17:24
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SynMoo posted:Not sure about your OBD question, but the vibration problem you're describing is very possibly a bad motor/trans mount. Protege's are known to have this exact description of symptoms when the rubber in the mount has worn away. It has to do with the engine vibrating more while at a lower idle, which it is when the trans is engaged but the car isn't moving. How easy is this to fix on an Accord? Mine does the same thing.
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Apr 15, 2010 17:31
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For just about any car, the general process is: 1. Jack engine up to take load off of mounts (You can use a regular service jack on the oil pan with a block of wood) 2. Unbolt one mount at a time 3. Replace the mount, torquing to spec 4. Repeat 2-3 for each mount you're replacing 5. Lower engine
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Apr 15, 2010 18:02
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So, when I went to make sure I could find my brake booster to seafoam my car on the next oil change, I found a disconnected plug. I don't see anywhere it could possibly plug in nearby, and I'd assume its been unplugged since I bought the car, as it was half buried in some wire loom. The car is a 97 sunfire gt (I know, it was cheep and it runs). The plug is located on the left side of the engine, if you're standing in front of the car. Pics are as follows. Also, have I circled the brake booster? 
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Apr 15, 2010 18:31
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Someone without insurance ran a stop sign and totalled my mom's uninsured car while I was driving it. I got a ticket for no insurance. The officer on the scene, and the prosecuting attourney, told me if I showed proof of insurance in court, they'll reduce the fine to $100. Am I supposed to go get insurance for a totalled car now? I've heard a few people mentioning getting self-insured. If that's sufficient, how would I go about that?
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Apr 15, 2010 20:56
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TrueChaos posted:So, when I went to make sure I could find my brake booster to seafoam my car on the next oil change, I found a disconnected plug. I don't see anywhere it could possibly plug in nearby, and I'd assume its been unplugged since I bought the car, as it was half buried in some wire loom. The car is a 97 sunfire gt (I know, it was cheep and it runs). The plug is located on the left side of the engine, if you're standing in front of the car. Pics are as follows. Also, have I circled the brake booster? You have circled the brake booster hose. Also, often times, multiple similar cars share the same wiring harness. That plug might have never gone to your car but it was cheaper to leave it there. The Ford Contour (4cyl) and Ford ZX2 share the same engine, but have vastly different throttle body / intake designs. There's a slew of plugs for each car on the other's harness.
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Apr 15, 2010 21:03
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