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I bought a ceiling fan for the spare bedroom in my house. The existing lighting fixture is a plain old light. Step one of installing the fan is to screw the mount into the fixture box in the ceiling. The problem is that the holes for the screws in the fixture box are closer together than the holes for the screws in the mount that came with the fan. Is there some kind of adapter I need to buy to make this work? I tried looking for a stud around the fixture but the stud finder found nothing. I tried drilling a couple of holes in spots that I figured would end up covered by the ceiling fan trim ring anyway but still found no studs. What do I do? Thanks
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Apr 10, 2010 05:34
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Ceiling fans cannot be installed on a plain light fixture mount, as far as I know. They need something a bit more substantial to carry the weight.
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Apr 10, 2010 15:51
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Associate Christ
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a ceiling fan for the spare bedroom in my house. The existing lighting fixture is a plain old light. http://www.westinghouselighting.com/pdf/pdf_decelec07/SafTPan.pdf I took off all the nuts holding the original pan inside the fixture box, popped the new one on, and the fans mounted perfectly afterwards. It's a moot point however, if the fixture box really isn't mounted to a stud. Do you have access to the attic/crawlspace above the room?
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Apr 10, 2010 19:22
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I went to Home Depot this morning and bought a Westinghouse Saf-T Brace Support Brace with Locking Teeth. I ripped the old junction box into pieces with a pliers and cut a slightly larger hole in the ceiling with a saw I bought while I was at HD (pretty much all of my tools are wrenches and sockets and other automotive-related tools). Once the hole was cut I put the new brace in the ceiling and turned the threaded rod inside until the teeth on each end of the brace were dug into the ceiling joists. Then I bolted the new junction box onto the brace and was able to mount the fan bracket. I had somehow managed to cut the hole in the ceiling a little too big so I had to go back to HD to buy a little trim ring to hide the ragged hole in the ceiling.  Click here for the full 717x294 image. Once the new brace and junction box were installed and I had the trim ring in my hands the ceiling fan itself went up like clockwork.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. All of the drywall cutting and fishing around inside the ceiling made the room a freaking mess!  Click here for the full 640x480 image. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 20:20
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Yeah, gently caress that whole scenario. I'm in the middle of doing one of these in my living room, and whoever installed the lovely nail-on box during a remodel (thanks, cheapskate) cut all the wires 2 inches too short for a straightforward replacement. That's power coming in; power going out in two directions; and a drop for the switch. I cussed so much.
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Apr 11, 2010 20:36
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What's the difference between this receptacle tester and this one?
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Apr 11, 2010 23:52
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The red one has a button that will test a GFCI receptacle and trip it.
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Apr 12, 2010 00:10
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One of the circuits in my house stopped working today. This circuit has two GFIs on it, and both of them are tripped and will not reset. I've tried unplugging everything from every outlet on the circuit and then resetting, but the GFIs still will not reset, and I am getting nothing from that circuit. The break is not tripped, I have reset it a few times. There's no way this is going to start magically working by itself again, is there?
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Apr 12, 2010 03:17
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Odd that there are two GFCI breakers on a single circuit... A ground-neutral fault could cause this, but that's notoriously hard to troubleshoot, so I'd look for easier culprits first. Are the indicator lights on the GFCIs lit, or are they just unpowered? If they're not getting power, they won't reset. There may be a bad connection in a box between your panel and the GFCIs.
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Apr 12, 2010 03:23
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Messadiah posted:The red one has a button that will test a GFCI receptacle and trip it. In other words, it has a feature that every GFCI receptacle has built in already. grover posted:Odd that there are two GFCI breakers on a single circuit... You should see my sister's place. Apparently the previous owner didn't know that you can daisy chain regular outlets off of them when he was renovating. She has 1 circuit going out to her garden shed outside. In it there is a 2 gang outlet box... with 2 GFCIs. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Apr 12, 2010 |
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Apr 12, 2010 04:57
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kid sinister posted:In other words, it has a feature that every GFCI receptacle has built in already. We're doing remodels right now. The specs call for every receptacle within 6' of water to be a GFCI. There's one circuit for the kitchen. Six receptacles, all GFCI, all the same circuit. I love government money.
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Apr 12, 2010 06:26
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kid sinister posted:In other words, it has a feature that every GFCI receptacle has built in already. Your first statement is answered by your second statement. Sometimes you want to test branch GFCI circuits to make sure they operate correctly (or just verify the GFCI outlet reacts the proper way regardless of the test switch).
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Apr 12, 2010 06:52
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grover posted:Odd that there are two GFCI breakers on a single circuit... A ground-neutral fault could cause this, but that's notoriously hard to troubleshoot, so I'd look for easier culprits first. What happened in the end was that there was a problem with the hookup at the pole; one of the two legs (term used by contractor) coming into the house was dead. Power company came out and fixed it tonight.
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Apr 12, 2010 08:44
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For those of you wondering about the need for GFCIs, we had a great demo at work where the instructor plugged a router (woodworking tool, not network equipment) into an extension cord, turned it on, then tossed it in a tub of water. It merrily ran with no issues. He then plugged it into a mini-extension cord with a built in GFCI, repeated the experiment, and it shut off the second it hit the water. This was supposed to show us the dangers of working around water without using GFCI circuits, but I also took away from it that routers will work under water.
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Apr 12, 2010 19:56
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As I was removing the outlet covers before painting my bathroom, I found that one of the blank covers was hiding some wiring that was not used. The ends were cut off clean, but there are no wire nuts protecting the ends. I can't imagine that this was up to code. 
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Apr 12, 2010 20:41
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Richard Noggin posted:As I was removing the outlet covers before painting my bathroom, I found that one of the blank covers was hiding some wiring that was not used. The ends were cut off clean, but there are no wire nuts protecting the ends. I can't imagine that this was up to code. New construction?
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Apr 12, 2010 20:46
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dietcokefiend posted:New construction? Nope, house was built in 1991.
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Apr 12, 2010 20:54
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I have these all over my house from where the previous owners switched from electric heat to gas. I think they used to be the thermostats. Also, instead of just removing the wires from the breakers and tying them out of the way, they cut them all so that none can be reconnected. So I have a useless 20A run to every room.
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Apr 12, 2010 21:14
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Hillridge posted:For those of you wondering about the need for GFCIs, we had a great demo at work where the instructor plugged a router (woodworking tool, not network equipment) into an extension cord, turned it on, then tossed it in a tub of water. It merrily ran with no issues. He then plugged it into a mini-extension cord with a built in GFCI, repeated the experiment, and it shut off the second it hit the water. Let me guess, a plastic container, right? That's why it kept running. While there was a short to the surrounding water, there was still no short to ground for the breaker to trip. So no, routers don't work underwater. Richard Noggin posted:As I was removing the outlet covers before painting my bathroom, I found that one of the blank covers was hiding some wiring that was not used. The ends were cut off clean, but there are no wire nuts protecting the ends. I can't imagine that this was up to code. Did you try a circuit tester to see if it was hot? Actually, it is legal to abandon unused wire in walls. Electricians will sometimes do this to renovate old buildings with 2 wire romex to 2 with ground romex. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Apr 13, 2010 |
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Apr 13, 2010 03:00
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kid sinister posted:Did you try a circuit tester to see if it was hot? I have a circuit tester somewhere, but couldn't find it. I think I may have left it at my in-laws. So it's perfectly OK for them to leave uncapped wire in a box like that?
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Apr 13, 2010 13:39
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Don't post before coffee, kids. You'll read something wrong twice, then QUOTE it wrong.
babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 13, 2010 |
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Apr 13, 2010 13:58
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He said it was legal, not illegal.
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Apr 13, 2010 14:57
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Apparently, I have a 30A breaker that is connected to my A/C unit which is supposed to be on a 20A. Is this going to burn down my house? It has been that way since 2003 when the house was originally remodeled by a moron.
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Apr 13, 2010 20:06
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tadashi posted:Apparently, I have a 30A breaker that is connected to my A/C unit which is supposed to be on a 20A. Is this going to burn down my house? It has been that way since 2003 when the house was originally remodeled by a moron. What size/gauge wire is the circuit powering?
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Apr 13, 2010 20:16
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dietcokefiend posted:What size/gauge wire is the circuit powering? Uh. You got me there. I am just going off something that was in an inspector's report from a couple year's ago. My inspector didn't mention the 20A/30A thing and I don't know if he didn't know any better or if he had good reason to leave it out. Why do you ask?
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Apr 13, 2010 21:03
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tadashi posted:Uh. You got me there. I am just going off something that was in an inspector's report from a couple year's ago. My inspector didn't mention the 20A/30A thing and I don't know if he didn't know any better or if he had good reason to leave it out. Because the appropriate breaker size is determined by the wiring it feeds, not your air conditioner.
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Apr 13, 2010 21:17
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tadashi posted:Uh. You got me there. I am just going off something that was in an inspector's report from a couple year's ago. My inspector didn't mention the 20A/30A thing and I don't know if he didn't know any better or if he had good reason to leave it out. Where do you get the 20A number from in the first place? If the house was remodeled there could just be a good chance the old AC compressor unit was replaced with something more efficient. No real harm in having a circuit over-sized by 10A if the wiring supports it.
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Apr 13, 2010 23:13
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Not unless the AC speficies maximum overcurrent protection at 20.
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Apr 14, 2010 00:29
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kid sinister posted:In other words, it has a feature that every GFCI receptacle has built in already.
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Apr 14, 2010 03:30
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dietcokefiend posted:Where do you get the 20A number from in the first place? If the house was remodeled there could just be a good chance the old AC compressor unit was replaced with something more efficient. No real harm in having a circuit over-sized by 10A if the wiring supports it. From what you all are saying, it sounds like it was the inspector who didn't know what they were talking about. I have to have an electrician out at my house next week, anyway. I will just have him take a look.
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Apr 14, 2010 18:35
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tadashi posted:From what you all are saying, it sounds like it was the inspector who didn't know what they were talking about. I have to have an electrician out at my house next week, anyway. I will just have him take a look. Yes. Have him look. Make sure that the breaker isn't bigger than the "max fuse size" listed on the side of the A/C. Make sure that there's at least 10AWG wire landed on that 30A breaker. If the A/C says "max fuse 20A" and you have a 30A protecting it, your warranty will not cover you when the motor catches fire and burns your house down, even if the wire size is correct. I just checked: my A/C has a "max fuse" and "max recommended HACR-type breaker" listed. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Apr 14, 2010 |
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Apr 14, 2010 18:57
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yes. Have him look. Make sure that the breaker isn't bigger than the "max fuse size" listed on the side of the A/C. Make sure that there's at least 10AWG wire landed on that 30A breaker. Thanks. I will actually check that myself as soon as I get home.
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Apr 14, 2010 19:58
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If it specifies a fuse then I believe that you have to have both. AC---------FUSE---------Breaker In line like that.
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Apr 14, 2010 23:24
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RedReverend posted:If it specifies a fuse then I believe that you have to have both. Nope. In general, AC installations are AC -outside wiring---- Outside disconnect ---house wiring--- house panel w/breaker The concept is thus: house panel breaker protects house wiring. Outside disconnect is a positive indication the circuit is off if you're mucking with the AC. If it's "fused" (a generic term that can mean it has a breaker or fuse), then it protects the unit and its wiring. The "max fuse" or "max HACR-Type Breaker" is what you stick in your disconnect. You can use either one. If the disconnect is unfused, then your house panel has to comply with the "max fuse." If the disconnect is fused, then you can put whatever the hell you want in the house panel provided your wiring supports it, and size your disconnect fuses for the unit. Example: My House. 60A breaker in the panel, with #6AWG THHN copper (65A ampacity) to the exterior disconnect. That disconnect has a 20A pull-type fuse in it, which matches the "max fuse: 20A" on the outside condenser. There's some #12AWG THHN copper in a piece of nonmetallic watertight flexible conduit out to the condenser. It also has a 20A GFCI receptacle inside to comply with the requirement for a service receptacle near AC units; nice deal. If I ever need a significantly huger outside compressor, I replace the fuse holder with (for example) a 40A holder, the wire to the compressor with some #8, and the unit with something that says "MAX FUSE 40A."
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Apr 15, 2010 00:38
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Thats right, I figured it was something like that. Off topic: I heard the 2011 Code was going all metric. Is this true?
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Apr 15, 2010 04:46
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Yeah, I've been sizing breakers larger than the nameplate MOCP for years and never had an inspector say a thing about it. babyeatingpsychopath's description is how my firm has always done it.
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Apr 15, 2010 07:07
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Welp, I just popped out a NEMA 15A outlet with a new, shiny NEMA 20A outlet to go with my shiny gently used 2200VA UPS I got for $20. Wire gauge was 12, so I'm good there, breaker was also 20. Here's hoping I never load it all the way otherwise my breaker will cry and my garage will have no more power.
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Apr 16, 2010 13:56
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Welp, I just popped out a NEMA 15A outlet with a new, shiny NEMA 20A outlet to go with my shiny gently used 2200VA UPS I got for $20. Wire gauge was 12, so I'm good there, breaker was also 20. Here's hoping I never load it all the way otherwise my breaker will cry and my garage will have no more power. Just be careful after an outage, because the UPS will be pulling the connected load current as well as a battery recharging current. If you have it highly loaded, that's when you would be most likely to run into problems.
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Apr 16, 2010 16:35
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Papercut posted:Just be careful after an outage, because the UPS will be pulling the connected load current as well as a battery recharging current. If you have it highly loaded, that's when you would be most likely to run into problems. Yep, on the plus side, the breaker is literally like 10 feet away from the UPS, so if it takes a poo poo it's all of 15 seconds work to unplug it and reset the breaker.
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Apr 17, 2010 03:00
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Papercut posted:Just be careful after an outage, because the UPS will be pulling the connected load current as well as a battery recharging current. If you have it highly loaded, that's when you would be most likely to run into problems.
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Apr 17, 2010 12:05
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