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I'm having a bit of an issue with the E36 and I'm not sure if I need to be concerned with it. At the end of a drive when I turn off the car, I'll occasionally get a warning on the OBC about the coolant level being low. When I check it after the car has cooled, however, it's perfectly fine, right on the fill line. Today when I started it up and it actually did it then, but within a second or two the warning goes away once the coolant starts to circulate. Just to get it out of the way, the car has a new water pump and radiator within the last year, so I doubt the issue is the typical old failing parts. 2 things that it could be: -When I installed my CAI I broke one of the attachments to the auxiliary thermostat and got a coolant leak. I plugged it and bypassed the thermostat altogether. -A month or so ago, I got backed into in a parking lot. The dude crunched my grill and broke a clip that holds a coolant line behind the radiator I would think that maybe the broken clip somehow created a pinhole leak, but I can't find any evidence of steam or leaking coolant anywhere. And like I said, the last time I checked when the engine was cold, the fluid was at the full line. That leaves a possible gap in the system caused by the plugged auxiliary thermostat lines, but wouldn't the gap eventually reach the overflow tank? I've only ever once had to add more water, and it was a tiny amount after doing the CAI, which I attributed to a gap making it to the overflow. Does anyone have any ideas what could be triggering the check level? My water temp runs the same as it always has.
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Apr 15, 2010 17:26
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I'm ignorant to the e36, but is there a bleeder screw to check for air instead of relying on the overflow tank?
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Apr 15, 2010 17:41
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McMadCow posted:a warning on the OBC about the coolant level being low...it's perfectly fine, right on the fill line The sensor is in the overflow tank and is notoriously unreliable. This sensor, along with the brake pedal sensor, are the two most common causes of false check lights. You can replace the overflow tank and sensor for like $70 at any local BAP or via Autohaus AZ. Frankly, when you do your cooling system, you should have swapped these parts too. The expansion tanks have the same lovely plastic and short lifespan as the radiator necks. Fermunky posted:I'm ignorant to the e36, but is there a bleeder screw to check for air instead of relying on the overflow tank? Yes, but you only open it when the car is cold and you're topping off coolant to ensure that the system is bled to that point. Otherwise the cooling system self-bleeds into the expansion tank.
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Apr 15, 2010 17:41
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Sterndotstern posted:The sensor is in the overflow tank and is notoriously unreliable. This sensor, along with the brake pedal sensor, are the two most common causes of false check lights. Cool, thanks. I'll look into getting a new tank/sensor. Also, it was the PO that replaced the cooling system, not me. I would have done everything. I bought the car in October.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:10
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Mine isn't self-bleeding, you open the bleeder screw when it's hot and air/coolant will bubble out.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:19
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McMadCow posted:Cool, thanks. I'll look into getting a new tank/sensor. Also, it was the PO that replaced the cooling system, not me. I would have done everything. I bought the car in October. Sorry, I'm cranky before my morning caffeine kicks in. Sorry for the bad assumption. BMW techs: the Bentley manual says specifically NOT to lube the guide pins when changing brake pads. Well, I put some of the brake lube on them anyway -- should I pull the wheels and clean them (and the guides), or is it not much of a concern? What effect, if any, does applying silicone lube to the guide bolts have?
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Apr 15, 2010 18:19
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Pretty sure it attracts dirt which will eventually cause them to seize up. I'd wait until it was convenient and then pull them apart to clean, but personally I wouldn't be in a huge hurry to do it. Make sure and clean the guide bushings too.
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Apr 15, 2010 18:21
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Is buying an e30(late 80s 325 most likely, or if I'm insanely lucky an M3) as a first time project car turned daily driver a terrible idea? I'd say I have more mechanical experience than the average first time driver, but I've never worked on a BMW. I have nine months before I can actually daily drive it, anyway, so I figure I may as well take the time to learn now. Better than being a another soulless kid in a cavalier, right? And if it's not a terrible idea, are there any major e30 specific problems I should look for when buying? An upper limit on mileage(kilometers in my case) before the car automatically catches on fire?
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Apr 15, 2010 18:54
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syrairc posted:Is buying an e30(late 80s 325 most likely, or if I'm insanely lucky an M3) as a first time project car turned daily driver a terrible idea? I'd say I have more mechanical experience than the average first time driver, but I've never worked on a BMW. I have nine months before I can actually daily drive it, anyway, so I figure I may as well take the time to learn now. Better than being a another soulless kid in a cavalier, right? Not to piss all over your dreams, but an E30 M3 is around 5X the price of an E30 325i. That's if you can even find one. The two aren't generally cross-shopped. Anyway, I don't think it's a bad idea for a DD. I've had two DD E30s and they were both great. I still have my 325i, but it's being prepped for track duty. As far as what to look for, my big two suggestions would be an oil stain on the ground beneath it, and a banging in the suspension. The oil stain could be a number of things, but the oil pain gasket likes to leak. Changing it requires either lifting the engine or dropping the front subframe. The banging in the suspension would be bad control arm bushings. Those aren't as bad to replace, but still a bit of a job.
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Apr 15, 2010 19:07
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McMadCow posted:Not to piss all over your dreams, but an E30 M3 is around 5X the price of an E30 325i. That's if you can even find one. The two aren't generally cross-shopped. Yeah the M3 is a pipe dream. I've found less than 10 E30s for sale locally, finding an M3 seems unlikely. Lifting the engine is something I really don't want to do, so I'll definitely keep that in mind. As far as maintenance, reliability and complexity goes, how is an e36 compared to the e30? It seems like it'd be a lot easier for me to get an e36 in better condition than an e30, albeit at a higher price. (sorry if all of this has been asked a million times, or they're stupid newbie questions.)
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Apr 15, 2010 19:51
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SuperCaptainJ posted:Half? I had 10-12 dents spread across all 4 doors on my e90 from a hail storm (all much closer to creases than yours), and a private PDR shop charged $200 to do all of them. Those quotes are insane. I called a couple small shops in the area and was quoted $125. When I tell them it's a BMW and give them my zip-code the price shoots up atleast 50 bucks. I should just meet them in Patterson, NJ and not tell them what kind of car it is. I'll offer to pay the guy in cash and see if he comes down to 100, usually that works. EDIT: He looked at the car, and quoted me 200 to fix the dent, and then 300 for the whole car. There's four little door dings, and another small crease. I offered him 250 cash for the whole thing and he agreed. Hurray Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 20:00
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syrairc posted:Yeah the M3 is a pipe dream. I've found less than 10 E30s for sale locally, finding an M3 seems unlikely. I haven't really noticed too much of an increase in complexity with my E36 vs the E30. There's a bit of a jump, but it's not insurmountable. The brakes are actually easier on the E36. More room in the engine bay in the E30. There's trades here and there but if a dumbass like me can somehow keep both of them on the road, then I'd say anyone can.
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Apr 15, 2010 20:17
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An acquaintance's automatic 1995 530i has the following symptom: sometimes reverse doesn't engage when you shift it into R. To remedy it, he shifts into N again and the back into R. How bad of a sign is this for his transmission?
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Apr 15, 2010 21:33
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kimbo305 posted:An acquaintance's automatic 1995 530i has the following symptom: Usually, yes. Reverse is almost always the first to die in BMW autoboxes, soon it will stop going into drive. Did this person make it a habit of shifting to drive before the car came to a full stop? That's what'll kill them.
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Apr 15, 2010 23:37
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syrairc posted:Yeah the M3 is a pipe dream. I've found less than 10 E30s for sale locally, finding an M3 seems unlikely. IMO - see posts only a page or two before yours - the E30 is a far better bet. It's lighter, simpler and easier to work on. E36s have had 10 years at the very best for any age-related problem which can beset a car to appear, including rust. Unless you view extended oil change intervals as the holy grail, I see no advantage to an E36. I replaced an E46 with an E30 (-is engine though) and much prefer it. As to M3s, it's not just a question of finding one (and insuring it). Where I am, the price difference between asking for a clean M3 Evo and an average E30 beater is up to 30x.
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Apr 16, 2010 06:16
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Muffinpox posted:Someone in MA come with me and bring a trailer. Don't have a trailer, don't even have a car at the moment, but sure.
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Apr 16, 2010 06:30
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OWLS! posted:Don't have a trailer, don't even have a car at the moment, but sure. You also have to agreed to be gagged and blindfolded, for "security purposes." Doctor Grape Ape posted:Usually, yes. Reverse is almost always the first to die in BMW autoboxes, soon it will stop going into drive. Did this person make it a habit of shifting to drive before the car came to a full stop? That's what'll kill them. So once that happens, is it shot, or rebuildable like Lowclock's?
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Apr 16, 2010 16:58
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kimbo305 posted:So once that happens, is it shot, or rebuildable like Lowclock's? It's rebuildable, but since it's a ZF box instead of GM, it'll be a lot more expensive. My master overhaul kit with steels and frictions was like $160. The same thing for a ZF5HP18 runs $700 and might not even be in stock haha. I'd say gently caress it and throw in a manual at that price point.
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Apr 16, 2010 23:00
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Has anyone ever driven or owned an 8-series? Been looking on them on car ad websites, and drat, they look sweet and can be had in the CSI version with a 380 HP V12. There's also the slightly more reasonable 840 choice (286 HP V8), or just regular 850 (300 HP). They're expensive (20-30k euro), but some day... drool. I figure they should be kind of a mix between E34 and E39 technology, so perhaps not too hard to work on. Edit: BMW V8 vs. V12 sound? Pilsner fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 23:16
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They are amazing I would kill for one. There's a catch on those cars though. I think the parts are extremely expensive and hard to come by.
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Apr 16, 2010 23:29
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I have an E39 540 and I wouldn't go near any BMW that wasn't maintained well, doubly so for a 5 and double that every time you go up to the next number :P I've never driven or heard a 5.0L V12 BMW engine tbh, but the V8 is gnarly and I'd suggest an E39 540 if you want a V8 BMW. It'd be a smarter choice, but I wouldn't get an 8 under any circumstances really. Probably not a 7 either as you're not going to be in the backseat anyways and you could get a newer 540 for a lot less than 20k euro. E39 M5s are 22-25k USD in the states right now after all and though the parts would be expensive on that too, I'd pick that over any 7 or 8 any day. I also got my 540 a few years back for 12k USD and I bet they're a lot less now with the gas prices and all, but you could be including weird taxes in that figure that I don't know about. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Apr 16, 2010 |
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Apr 16, 2010 23:38
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Pilsner posted:Has anyone ever driven or owned an 8-series? Been looking on them on car ad websites, and drat, they look sweet and can be had in the CSI version with a 380 HP V12. There's also the slightly more reasonable 840 choice (286 HP V8), or just regular 850 (300 HP). They're expensive (20-30k euro), but some day... drool. I figure they should be kind of a mix between E34 and E39 technology, so perhaps not too hard to work on. Talk to Black88GTA. He has an 840 and is generally pretty pro-owning one. Here's some of what he's done do it, among other cars: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3145227&userid=156381
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Apr 16, 2010 23:50
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Pilsner posted:Has anyone ever driven or owned an 8-series? Been looking on them on car ad websites, and drat, they look sweet and can be had in the CSI version with a 380 HP V12. There's also the slightly more reasonable 840 choice (286 HP V8), or just regular 850 (300 HP). They're expensive (20-30k euro), but some day... drool. I figure they should be kind of a mix between E34 and E39 technology, so perhaps not too hard to work on. I've driven an 850i with a 6-speed. It was awesome, but I wouldn't want to own one I don't think. With an exhaust and quicker rear-end they can be a stupid amount of fun.
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Apr 17, 2010 00:04
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Pilsner posted:Has anyone ever driven or owned an 8-series? Hah, the e31 is probably the worst older BMW to work on, especially the m73 powered variety. There's absolutely no room in the engine compartment and it has all the self-leveling goodness from the e32. Plus, it was a very expensive, low-production car so the parts prices tend to reflect that fact. Also, I don't really like how they drive. Sure, they're fast compared to other contemporary cars, but they're too big and heavy to feel like a sports car. I do love how they look though.
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Apr 17, 2010 02:13
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What's the durability of using the E46 launch mode in an SMG II equipped car? I know the American version is pretty crippled from its European counterpart but the launch mode doesn't really let the car rev to any real RPMs. It's not going to be running on Mickey Thompson E/T streets or hammered for 40 runs. In general is it crippled enough to handle being used in general? edit: After further reading it takes the car to 2,000 RPM (I knew this) and I've pretty much decided the car can handle about 9000 of these before breaking. Worst case scenario I lose an axel somehow. Eh, I guess the SMG II breaks. I really don't think the U.S. version can do any damage to itself. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 06:02
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Pilsner posted:Has anyone ever driven or owned an 8-series? Been looking on them on car ad websites, and drat, they look sweet and can be had in the CSI version with a 380 HP V12. There's also the slightly more reasonable 840 choice (286 HP V8), or just regular 850 (300 HP). They're expensive (20-30k euro), but some day... drool. I figure they should be kind of a mix between E34 and E39 technology, so perhaps not too hard to work on. I've had my 1994 840 since 2006. Purchased with ~82k on it, currently sitting at about 108k. The only performance mods so far are Dinan adjustable sway bars front and rear, and an engine and transmission chip. There's really not much out there for these mod-wise, unless you want to spend A LOT of money on a supercharger setup. I've had little niggly things go wrong, but nothing really major yet. In addition to regular maintenance and the standard '90s BMW stuff - cooling system, dead pixels on the OBC - I've had to do control arm bushings (the 8 series eats these), the seat computer, motor mounts, and the fuel pump. The latest adventure is the pot metal door handle frame breaking (also common to the 8 series). Parts prices on mechanical bits aren't too bad (as BMW parts go), although 8-series specific items can get up there. Fortunately, there's not too many of those that frequently go bad, although the door handle frame (which I am currently dealing with) unfortunately falls into this category. If you do get one, shoot me an email (eharding at gmail) and I'll give you information on a dealer that gives a 25% discount off OEM parts for 8-series owners.  They require you to provide a VIN though, since 5 and 7 series owners with the V8 could theoretically sneak in on that for mechanical bits and such.My car has the M60 with the Nikasil block. Everyone says to stay away from these, but the high sulfur content in US gas that was causing all the problems when these came out was rectified years ago. So if you have a Nikasil engine that hasn't gone bad yet, it isn't going to. Well, not from high sulfur gas, anyway. Standard engine wear / use still applies, of course. That said, I haven't had any trouble out of the engine. I would have to say if you want one, get an 840 with the 4.4L M62 (96-97). The M70/M73 V12 is older tech, harder to work on, parts are more expensive, and it's generally more fussy. You get a small power bump over the V8 cars, but the added hassle and expense for ~15 hp isn't worth it, IMO. The 850 uses a drive-by-wire setup which includes throttle actuators (DK motors) that tend to wear out. Intake manifold gaskets on the V12 like to fail and leak - from what I understand, replacing these is kind of a bitch of a job. And many 850s came with the active suspension, which is EXPENSIVE to fix when it breaks. The V8 cars have a cable throttle and no problems with IM gaskets, and uses a standard suspension with no electronic fuckery attached to it. The V8 cars have lots of room in the engine bay, are a bit better on gas, much easier to work on, and parts are cheaper. Plus, the 840s are far more rare than the 850, if that matters to you at all. I can't speak for the sound of the 850s, but the 840 has a DOHC V8 that sounds very Cobra-esque when you pull the mufflers and rip on it.  Not that I've done that recently.  These cars can sound awesome with a nice exhaust setup. I think there are a couple 840 + Magnaflow exhaust clips on Youtube, which I am too lazy to find and link.  Stock, they are pokey off the line due to weight and gearing. This can be somewhat remedied with a rear gear ratio upgrade. 840s will either have a 2:93 (94-95) or a 2:81 (96-97) which can be upgraded to commonly found 3:15 LSD or 3:64 open ratios (a 3:64 LSD is available, but hard to find used) or a 3:91 if you don't ever want to take it on the expressway, I guess. 850s come with a 3:64, which can be switched out with a 3:91 from an E34 M5. That said, they are heavy as poo poo - ~4100 lbs curb weight - so don't expect go-kart handling. Going by the things I've done on mine, the 840 is not at all hard to work on. I can't speak for the 850, although I assume it is much more difficult due to increased complexity and less room to work. Spark plug / coil changes on the V8 are cake, and there's plenty of room around the engine to get in there. It's actually roomier than the engine bay shot below shows. The only time I had trouble reaching something in there was when I tried doing my motor mounts and didn't have the proper tools to reach down at the proper angle for the top nuts.  This car does generate lots of attention on the road and at gas stations, etc. I've had lots of people come up to me and ask about it while filling up and what not, and even a few offers to buy it. It's not something you want to get if you want to blend in. That said, I love mine and would definitely recommend it as long as you plan on keeping up on maintenance. If you are the type that puts gas in and steers, and won't do the proper maintenance, find something else - these (like most Euro cars) are NOT forgiving of a neglectful owner. Wow, I wrote a lot of stuff. If you have questions about anything specific I can try to answer them, but I think I've brainshit enough here for now.
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Apr 17, 2010 06:57
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McMadCow posted:No, it's this guy: CornHolio posted:How much would I need for a good flush, though? I'm sure more than the capacity, but I don't know how much more. revmoo posted:Mine isn't self-bleeding, you open the bleeder screw when it's hot and air/coolant will bubble out. McMadCow posted:Cool, thanks. I'll look into getting a new tank/sensor. Also, it was the PO that replaced the cooling system, not me. I would have done everything. I bought the car in October. Sterndotstern posted:Sorry, I'm cranky before my morning caffeine kicks in. Sorry for the bad assumption.
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Apr 17, 2010 07:20
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SiGmA_X posted:2qts is plenty. I'd get a good turkey baster and use it to extract the fluid from the res, fill it, turn engine on, steer wheels, and do that a few times. And no stop I agree with you for almost all of this except for the turkey baster part. Those things tend to drip poo poo everywhere on the belts and the engine and generally are a mess. I would use a had operated vacuum pump like you would use for bleeding brakes just to avoid the tremendous mess that is ATF all over your serpentine belts. Other than that, the procedure is spot on. e: like this If that's too spendy then siphoning would be a good option too.
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Apr 17, 2010 09:41
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I've got a hand pump that I regularly use with ATF, so that parts not a problem.
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Apr 17, 2010 16:58
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I just did the gear oil on my E36. It was pretty easy. Kind of odd thing though, my transmission had 17mm drain/fill bolts, not the hex bolts that everyone else seems to have. Also I had a yellow sticker saying ATF Oil. From my research the only transmissions with a yellow tag are M3 transmissions, but they don't specify ATF for those transmissions.
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Apr 17, 2010 18:54
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I'm trying to bleed the cooling system in my E30. I have good heat coming from the vents (if that means anything), and a steady stream coming from the loosened bleed screw. I've heard of people spending upwards of an hour doing this, but it takes me less than a minute each time. How do I know if I'm doing it correctly and how do I know when I'm done?
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Apr 17, 2010 19:48
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Xenoid posted:I have an E39 540 and I wouldn't go near any BMW that wasn't maintained well, doubly so for a 5 and double that every time you go up to the next number :P Black88GTA posted:I've had my 1994 840 since 2006. Thanks for the great write-up. I should say however, that I already own an E34 540 which I like a lot, and I've also owned an E34 530 (R6 engine, euro), and I do all the work on my cars myself, so I'm already used to high prices and a fair amount of work effort  . I do check-ups frequently and fix stuff that breaks quickly. I'm definitely not just an A-to-B driver.I love the V8 (M60B40) sound to death as well, and yeah, it is undoubtedly a LOT more reasonable to get the V8 rather than the V12. The V12 is more of a pipe dream really, particularly the 380HP CSI, I'd at least just like to drive one and hear how it sounds and pulls. I have too read that it's a bit of a crazy fucker to maintain, and I wouldn't touch 15-year-old self-levelling suspension with a ten-foot pole (thanks for that tip). Maybe an 840 will be my next car. Does it feel much more "sporty" than an E34 or E39? Lower ride height and stiffer suspension?
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Apr 17, 2010 20:59
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I went to see the free 2002tii. I was met with this. The woman who owned it wasn't there so I don't know if its 3000 or 103000. and this:     The car is in pretty great shape overall aside from the rust. Anyone with more experience in 2002s know how much of a bitch those spots would end up being to repair?  It looks like its been sitting outside for a while, the interior is pretty clean. A little shampoo and steam and it would look brand new. None of the floorboards are rusted either. 
Muffinpox fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 22:36
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I don't know but that is worth repairing.
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Apr 17, 2010 22:44
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Pilsner posted:Thanks for the great write-up. Sounds like you know somewhat what you'd be getting into already, which is good. I have never driven an E34 or E39, so can't comment there, although I would guess the handling to be a bit more crisp with either of the 5's. The E34/E39 weigh a bit less (~3800 lbs)than the E31 (~4100 lbs). One thing I'd mention is that the 8 series was never meant to be a sports car, but rather a comfy GT Autobahn car, and it shows in certain areas (weight, gearing come to mind). Unfortunately, if you are looking for a 6-speed, an 850 is your only option, and the 850 / 6spd combo is hard to find as people tend to hang onto them. 840s came with a 5-speed auto only in the US, although there were some sold with a manual overseas. The suspension on my car is fairly stiff, but not too much. It is possible that a previous owner did something to it before I got it though. It already had upgraded adjustable sway bars installed when I got it, so a car guy did own it at some point in the past. I've never felt the need to do anything to the suspension, so I've never closely examined it.
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Apr 18, 2010 03:06
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Muffinpox posted:I went to see the free 2002tii. I was met with this. I don't understand why people think storing a car on top of a tarp is a good idea. It looks they used a tarp as a car cover as well.  But yeah, that car is a substantial, substantial amount of work. I'd just part it out. The engine alone is worth ~$600 (I just sold a complete tii engine with a similar history for $800). It's really not worth it though.
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Apr 18, 2010 03:15
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Muffinpox posted:i have the exact same brake fluid level sensing switch cap on my 1976 bmw bike!
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Apr 18, 2010 12:53
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Almost done with Inspection II How do you "10. Grease wheel center hubs." ?
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Apr 18, 2010 22:14
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revmoo posted:Almost done with Inspection II You remove the wheels and apply grease to the centering hubs (and I usually put a little on the rotor hat where the rim contacts). It's done so the wheels don't seize themselves onto the hub or brake rotor. It's pretty simple.
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Apr 18, 2010 23:26
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Ohhhhh, got it. I thought it meant you had to grease some bearings or something. That makes a lot more sense.
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Apr 18, 2010 23:30
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