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My parents bought a 2004 F-150 and the seller didn't remember the keyless entry code for it. The manual says the factory override code should be marked on the ECU. I checked behind the glove box and under the hood at the obvious metal box with lots of wires leading into it, but I don't see anything in the right format to be the 5-digit code. Does anyone know specifically where it would be? Edit: Welp, it looks like the computer in question is the Body Security Module and accessing it requires removing the rear seats and interior trim. Pitch fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Apr 18, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 20:56
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Headlights recently went out in my '89 Ford Escort, pulled apart some stuff and found the turn signal/hazard/hi-beam switch melted the connector going to it. Lights work fine if the two melted terminals are shorted (they normally are connected inside the switch). So we need to replace the switch which I found easily but the connector is eluding me. Is there another name I should be searching for the connector on? Basically even if we replace the switch it's not going to do much without replacing the connector. The melted connector.  Where it goes into the switch.  Other end of some of those wires, the main headlight switch, which was melted and replaced previously (~3 years ago) along with the signal switch. I did find a replacement connector for it but this one wasn't messed up enough to prevent it hooking into the new switch. Basically: I need to find a replacement for the green connector in the first picture. A junkyard trip isn't out of the question but buying one online is preferable.
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Apr 17, 2010 21:36
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I have this weird issue with shifting into third gear in my 06 RSX. It sometimes gets this really notchy feel that makes it difficult to shift to third without grinding the gears or going back into neutral. Shifting into pretty much any other gear except occasionally second is smooth. I try to shift slowly but it doesn't seem to help things. I just got the car a few weeks ago so I don't know if its an ongoing problem or what. I've never owned a car with a stick shift before, so I don't know if this is typical behavior or if it means the car is about to fall apart etc Is there anything I can do to fix it or should I just deal with it? e: its an S model if that makes any difference Fortuitous Bumble fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Apr 18, 2010 |
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Apr 18, 2010 00:28
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Please tell me how absolutely retarded it would be to buy a 1985 Buick Regal T-Type that is black and grey, in rough shape. It had the Turbo 3.8 SFI Engine and is only asking $3500. The child inside of me is saying TURBO BUICK ON THE CHEAP!!!, my sensible side is screaming, Rusty 80's shitbox project car! Note, this is not the car that I stopped for tonight, it was dusk and I know you should never buy a car at night. This picture is representative of the color scheme. Keep in mind it is in rough shape with rust in all the normal spots. But gently caress me if I wouldn't love to have a turbo regal. 
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Apr 18, 2010 01:51
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Vehicle: 1997 Geo tracker 4wd. Engine: 1998 Chevy Tracker 4cyl 1.6L SOHC MPFI. Problem: After swapping in the junkyard engine from the 1998 (same engine) was troubleshooting a no spark issue. After much pulling of hair and use of nicotine, replacing the cap and the rotor, determined that pressing the brake pedal causes spark to go away. If I crank it without my foot on the brake I have spark. As soon as I tap the brake, until I release it, I have no spark. The only thing I can think of is somehow the ignitor in the distributor is acquiring its ground *through* the brake lighting system, and when they come on, its no longer a ground. We haven't gotten it to run yet, we think the dizzy is 180 out of phase, we think we're getting fuel, I huffed the tailpipe after cranking for about 10 seconds and I think I smelled fuel, then again at tailpipe level in a garage everything smells of gas! Tomorrow I'm going to plop my borescope in to find out which is TDC of the combustion stroke in cyl 1. (all valves closed for the duration of the upward travel) since the timing mark only indicates TDC, not TDC on compression. That way we know drat sure the dizzy is in phase and can fully rule that out. I know some vehicles actually *require* you to have your foot on the brake pedal to start them, and most require brakes to shift out of park. Thus when starting any car I'm not used to driving I hold the brake in at start. This of course led to hilarity as the spark came and went as both of us alternated sitting in the drivers seat, he sometimes pushed the pedal, sometimes didn't. Once he gave up for the day I kept at it, discovered one of the plug wires is intermittent between 14k ohms and over 2gigaohms. Swapped that out. Finally put two and two together when I tried it in the seat, with the brake on, the hopped out and reached in and keyed it over. Spark! I finally put two and two together. TL;DR: I haz spark while cranking, spark goes away if I press the brake pedal, spark returns when I release it. WTF?!
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Apr 18, 2010 03:23
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_firehawk posted:Please tell me how absolutely retarded it would be to buy a 1985 Buick Regal T-Type that is black and grey, in rough shape. It had the Turbo 3.8 SFI Engine and is only asking $3500. The child inside of me is saying TURBO BUICK ON THE CHEAP!!!, my sensible side is screaming, Rusty 80's shitbox project car! Is only the body in rough / rusty shape, or is the engine having problems? What's the mileage on it? Take it for a test drive, at least. Those are sexy cars, I'd say go for it if nothing mechanical / suspension / electrical jumps out at you.
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Apr 18, 2010 03:39
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My cousin drives a Grand Cherokee, presumably a WJ, with a 4.0 and auto. Wiki shows it to be a 42RE transmission. He's reporting erratic shifts, says if he cuts it off, cuts it back on it starts behaving. About a year ago it had some kind of fluid change, then a few months ago started acting erratic. Is this signs of non-ATF+4 being used, is this transmission related to the godawful A604, and is there any chance a second fluid change would fix it?
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Apr 18, 2010 04:28
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Sponge! posted:Vehicle: 1997 Geo tracker 4wd. All the factory ground straps in place?
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Apr 18, 2010 05:47
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maxallen posted:Is this signs of non-ATF+4 being used, is this transmission related to the godawful A604, and is there any chance a second fluid change would fix it? Possibly, not materially, and possibly. If you don't know what's in it and it's acting up, it never hurts to drain it and throw fresh ATF+4 in. Regardless of what the mystery fluid may be, how does it look?
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Apr 18, 2010 06:08
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Doodarazumas posted:
First thing's first, check power steering fluid level, if you can hear the pump whine (unless it's an older ford model, which are loud even when they are full and working properly), it means you are out of fluid. It could be that with increases in RPM you can get what little fluid there is to circulate around in the rack hence the releasing and letting go part you are feeling. When you do decide to bring it in, make sure you have them check the upper front spring bearings to make sure they aren't sized. If they are seized, that can prevent the tires from returning back straight ahead. Do you hear any popping or clunking when you turn the wheel?
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Apr 18, 2010 12:56
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Fortuitous Bumble posted:I have this weird issue with shifting into third gear in my 06 RSX. It sometimes gets this really notchy feel that makes it difficult to shift to third without grinding the gears or going back into neutral. Shifting into pretty much any other gear except occasionally second is smooth. I try to shift slowly but it doesn't seem to help things. I just got the car a few weeks ago so I don't know if its an ongoing problem or what. I've never owned a car with a stick shift before, so I don't know if this is typical behavior or if it means the car is about to fall apart etc Generally, if it's hard to shift into all the forward gears it's likely a clutch issue. If it's hard to shift into one or two gears, likely it's the synchros inside the trans for those specific gears. If you double clutch to shift into 3rd, can you shift into 3rd smoothly? If so, then again, it's likely syncros. Those cars are fairly sporty right, and you just bought it so you don't know the history to it, or how the P/O drove it, it's a chance you take with any used car.
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Apr 18, 2010 13:00
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My GF's 03 Focus ZX5 with automatic trans seems to slip out of gear every so often when driving. It feels like it just neutral revs for a moment and then it starts moving again like normal. Could this be an issue of low fluid? The car leaks...something a little, and I think from looking underneath that it's coming from the trans pan.
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Apr 18, 2010 14:58
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insta posted:All the factory ground straps in place? But of course. First thing I checked. Cyl head is grounded to the block, the block bonded to the chassis and the battery. I didn't check the transmission ground(s) but as we didn't pull the tranny they should still be there.
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Apr 18, 2010 15:16
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My GF's 03 Focus ZX5 with automatic trans seems to slip out of gear every so often when driving. It feels like it just neutral revs for a moment and then it starts moving again like normal. Could this be an issue of low fluid? The car leaks...something a little, and I think from looking underneath that it's coming from the trans pan. How does the transmission fluid look? Colour and smell. When was it last changed? This is really important because your transmission doesn't like old fluid very much. You need to check the levels when the car is on and hot. Drive the car around for a bit and the put it in park. While sitting in your driveway run the car through each of the gears on the shifter and then back to park. Then while the car is still running check the level.
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Apr 18, 2010 15:43
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I just bought a '74 Chevy C10 with a TH350 transmission and it's leaking fluid. After wiping down the pan and everything the leak doesn't appear to be coming from the pan but is seeping out from around the dust cover. I haven't removed the dust cover yet because I don't really know what I'm looking at under there. What should be my next step in figuring out where exactly it's coming from? Edit: Basically I'm wondering what I can rule out or repair without removing the transmission from the vehicle because I don't have a place to do that and I don't know what I'm doing.
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Apr 18, 2010 16:46
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Desterado posted:Alright so I have a buzzing coming from my car at 40+ mph. It almost sounds like road noise from the tires but I cannot be sure. It's a wheel bearing. Start budgeting to get both replaced within a year.
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Apr 18, 2010 17:20
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8ender posted:How does the transmission fluid look? Colour and smell. When was it last changed? This is really important because your transmission doesn't like old fluid very much. I don't know when it was changed last. The car has 129,xxx miles on it and she just bought it about a month ago. The fluid doesn't smell burnt but I didn't pay much attention to the color of it, it was getting dark when I checked it. I'll do what you said and take a look at it later. I may need to change the fluid and see if that helps.
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Apr 18, 2010 17:28
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I am a bit torn on what size tires to put on my new rims. Stock wheels are a 185/70R14. I got an amazing deal on TRD 17" rims, and can get a great price on Nexen N3000 in either 205/40R17 which are a bit small, or 215/45R17, which are a bit large. These are for a 94 Celica, bone-stock. It's just a daily driver, and should only be on the road for the remainder of the summer. I'm not concerned about the impact on fuel economy or top speed. Does one stand out above the other as better or less-incorrect? Will going as small as 205/40 be noticeable? Will going as large as 215/45 be too much contact for the car? Both are within 3% of original spec. Thanks!
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Apr 18, 2010 18:23
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jarofpiss posted:I just bought a '74 Chevy C10 with a TH350 transmission and it's leaking fluid. After wiping down the pan and everything the leak doesn't appear to be coming from the pan but is seeping out from around the dust cover. I haven't removed the dust cover yet because I don't really know what I'm looking at under there. Most likely it is leaking from the front seal of the transmission. Don't rule out a leaking torque converter (especially a remanned one, if the unit has been changed) or it could be leaking from the pump bolts too. Most likely you will only need a front seal replaced, but unfortunately, you have to pull the trans out to change it, or to change the torque, so either way, it's a bit of work. Good luck.
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Apr 18, 2010 19:04
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Fortuitous Bumble posted:I have this weird issue with shifting into third gear in my 06 RSX. It sometimes gets this really notchy feel that makes it difficult to shift to third without grinding the gears or going back into neutral. Shifting into pretty much any other gear except occasionally second is smooth. I try to shift slowly but it doesn't seem to help things. I just got the car a few weeks ago so I don't know if its an ongoing problem or what. I've never owned a car with a stick shift before, so I don't know if this is typical behavior or if it means the car is about to fall apart etc Google that problem - I think there's an issue with notchy shifting in the RSX, especially if the PO beat on it before you got it.
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Apr 18, 2010 19:57
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2000 VW Golf 2.0 This is my brother's car. About a second after it starts up, there is a high pitched grinding noise coming from the starter area. It doesn't happen every time, maybe 1 out of 4. What could be causing this?
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Apr 18, 2010 19:57
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mr.belowaverage posted:I am a bit torn on what size tires to put on my new rims. Stock wheels are a 185/70R14. I got an amazing deal on TRD 17" rims, and can get a great price on Nexen N3000 in either 205/40R17 which are a bit small, or 215/45R17, which are a bit large. I'd go with the 205/40R17 tires, the wider ones might have issues with rubbing against the strut- Does the backspacing on the wheels allow for them to be mounted without interfering with the struts?
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Apr 18, 2010 19:59
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Buying a new Mazdaspeed3 tomorrow afternoon. Any words or caution, advice, praise?
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Apr 18, 2010 20:22
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FogHelmut posted:2000 VW Golf 2.0 Starter failing to disengage? The teeth on a starter gear aren't normally in contact with the flywheel teeth, they get pushed into mesh by a solenoid on the starter. My guess: high-pitched grinding noise is the overrunning clutch in the starter gear failing to overrun, thus letting the flywheel drive the starter. Or just the overrunning clutch overrunning, which would be more of a "whizzzzzz" noise.
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Apr 18, 2010 20:32
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Splizwarf posted:Starter failing to disengage? The teeth on a starter gear aren't normally in contact with the flywheel teeth, they get pushed into mesh by a solenoid on the starter. My guess: high-pitched grinding noise is the overrunning clutch in the starter gear failing to overrun, thus letting the flywheel drive the starter. Or just the overrunning clutch overrunning, which would be more of a "whizzzzzz" noise. Actually it's this exact noise here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppRxueZ_qFM His motor doesn't sound like a tractor though. I'm assuming he needs a new starter? edit - Maybe not! http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2269482 sweet FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Apr 18, 2010 |
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Apr 18, 2010 20:38
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Molten Llama posted:Possibly, not materially, and possibly. Nice and pink on the dipstick, didn't look burnt at all.
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Apr 19, 2010 00:57
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SynMoo posted:Buying a new Mazdaspeed3 tomorrow afternoon. Any words or caution, advice, praise? The Speed3 is a solid car. I can't find any recalls on any but the first year (for defective engine mount bolts), and all the TSBs out since are for minor poo poo. I also intern at my local Mazda dealer, and the only real issues they've seen are from rookie drivers taking the car beyond its limits, which are admittedly pretty high. Personally, I'd rather have the pre-facelifted model which is mechanically identical, but that's personal taste. Have fun with the zoom-zoom!
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Apr 19, 2010 02:09
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8ender posted:This type of repair often lasts 8-12 months here in Canada. The caliper will seize again, usually sometime during winter, but it will get you along for a while. I did this to my brother in-laws rear caliper twice, but it lasted less each time I did it. Any time I repair something on an Ohio car, I use about 200% too much anti-seize. It smushes out of the threads, and then I paint every exposed piece of steel with it. The exposed threads, the outside bits of the bolt and washer. It's not permanent, but it's better than anything else i've tried. I started this practice because a friend of mine worked for the turnpike commission for a while. He said when they installed a scale at a toll booth, if they didn't leave every part dripping with AS, they'd have to take it apart with a torch.
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Apr 19, 2010 03:20
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Dark Solux posted:I'd go with the 205/40R17 tires, the wider ones might have issues with rubbing against the strut- Does the backspacing on the wheels allow for them to be mounted without interfering with the struts? I'll find out Monday. Anything else to consider regarding those particular sizes?
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Apr 19, 2010 03:43
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1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0, 5 speed, 246,000 miles. Just picked up this beauty for 400 bucks. Ive got two questions about it. At idle it will have a bad miss, rpms will surge from 500, to 200. When gas is applied this issue goes away. I cleaned the throttle body, and the plugs, wires, and cap all look good. What else could this be? Also it has a small oil leak from what looks like the left side bottom of the engine, my brother said this is probably the head gasket, but could it just be the valve cover gasket leaking on the side? Thanks for the help.
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Apr 19, 2010 05:19
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Could a dirty air cleaner cause a gasoline smell in the cabin? My '88 Prelude completely lacks a cabin air filter, so I smell every mistake or problem - drop the clutch too hard, smells like burnt clutch; coolant leak, smells like antifreeze; etc. For the past couple of weeks there's been a faint but steady smell of gasoline, more when I'm pulling away from the pump with a full tank, but never really going away. Gas mileage is steady at around 25mpg, and I know the air cleaner cartridge is due or past-due for replacement, but I'm worried I've also got a fuel leak somewhere. If there is a leak, it must be pretty small and only happening while the engine is running. How does one diagnose a fuel leak, on a dirty old engine that leaks a little bit of oil anyways?
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Apr 19, 2010 05:35
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ExecuDork posted:Could a dirty air cleaner cause a gasoline smell in the cabin? My '88 Prelude completely lacks a cabin air filter, so I smell every mistake or problem - drop the clutch too hard, smells like burnt clutch; coolant leak, smells like antifreeze; etc. For the past couple of weeks there's been a faint but steady smell of gasoline, more when I'm pulling away from the pump with a full tank, but never really going away. Gas mileage is steady at around 25mpg, and I know the air cleaner cartridge is due or past-due for replacement, but I'm worried I've also got a fuel leak somewhere. If there is a leak, it must be pretty small and only happening while the engine is running. How does one diagnose a fuel leak, on a dirty old engine that leaks a little bit of oil anyways? First thing I'd do is go huff around the evap canister. Check all the brittle old lines to and from it for cracks and fuckery.
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Apr 19, 2010 05:58
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I was thinking about whether to make a thread with a bit more information about this, but I didn't want to look like an ignorant dick so i'm posting here. I'm still driving my first car, a '93 Vauxhall Cavalier. It's a 1.7 Turbodiesel, not in bad shape, and if you're British then you know the reputation these things have for never, ever dying. Well, a choice came up recently for me to change cars. Nothing new, a '97 Peugeot 406. Not in bad nick either, but it'll need a some money sunk into it and it's £100 on top of that. What I want to know is, and what i've been hmming over the last few days is whether to swap cars, or take the money I would put into the new one and spend it on the car I currently drive. I love my Cavalier to bits, she gets me 50 mpg without any problems, she's smooth and comfortable to drive, handles like a dream despite weighing almost two tons and still has enough kick to go fast when I want to have some fun. I've got a list of things as long as my arm that I want to get sorted, various ratles and quirks, and the fast that my wing mirrors are glued in. Little things. The only thing that has me debating is that fact that the Vauxhall is worth absolutely nothing, resale-wise, whereas I might get my £100 back next year if I sell the peugeot on. So, gimme advice, so I get a new car or start a dumb project thread that dies after three pages?
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Apr 19, 2010 15:33
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My car seems to be hesitating/sputtering when I accelerate. 2001 Ford Focus. First instance was on April 1, 2010. I had 1/8 of a tank or so and was going uphill, car stalled, shut down on me. Was lucky enough that I could turn around and make it to the gas station at the bottom of the hill. Refilled, drove from Pittsburgh to DC and back, no issues, forgot about it. Fast forward to last night, April 18. Driving home on level ground, car starts to do the same. Stopped to get gas, filled up the tank. Symptoms continued. It doesn't seem to happen when I coast/idle, only when I'm actively accelerating. My car did previously have the fuel pump replaced via recall/warranty because it's an inline fuel pump and it was clogged or something. Any thoughts? I commute on the interstate 64 miles round trip a day and this is worrisome. Thanks in advance!
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Apr 19, 2010 15:34
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Are you positive the car behaved the same before it died? The first one you say it just stalled -- did it sputter or do any misfiring beforehand? The second symptom sounds like bad spark plugs or coil. I had something similar on my Focus that went away with a coil replacement: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbEm_OB8ows
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Apr 19, 2010 16:03
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My wife's 2000 Honda Accord has bad lower ball joints. I like to take the "while you are in there" approach to things and I would like to also replace the upper ball joints on the front end. Are the front upper ball joints replaceable or do I need to buy whole new control arms? I see that they sell front upper ball joints for the car so that seems to imply that they are a serviceable part, but some of my google search results seem to indicate that the whole control arms needs replacing, which is twice as much money. What to do?
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Apr 19, 2010 16:59
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Here's a diagram of my exhaust system. Part 28284 has rusted completely off, the flange towards the muffler's end is rusted off too.  What are my options here? I need things as cheap as possible. Rockauto has the part for about $10-13. But I can't put it on myself, how much would a muffler place usually charge for it? The rest of the exhaust isn't too great but nowhere near as bad as that section that just rusted off.
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Apr 19, 2010 18:22
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kimbo305 posted:Are you positive the car behaved the same before it died? The first one you say it just stalled -- did it sputter or do any misfiring beforehand? Yeah it was the same both times. I was out during lunch and the check engine light came on. The car was sputtering and hesitating just while backing up in the parking lot with my foot off the accelerator.
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Apr 19, 2010 19:30
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ZentraediElite posted:Yeah it was the same both times. I was out during lunch and the check engine light came on. The car was sputtering and hesitating just while backing up in the parking lot with my foot off the accelerator. if you have a CEL then just get that scanned and proceed from there.
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Apr 19, 2010 21:52
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kimbo305 posted:if you have a CEL then just get that scanned and proceed from there. I took it to a shop and they replaced the spark plugs/wires. Runs like a charm now!
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Apr 19, 2010 23:22
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