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Seat Safety Switch posted:[list] The first bit is off in that the 2.5L is from 97 or 98 so the early headgasket problems are more from late 90s cars. A 2002 2.5L shouldn't have that problem as its a phase II engine. I will agree with this second comment. A Subaru with the 2.2L is a really good car.
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Apr 10, 2010 20:13
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Zsbaug24 posted:The first bit is off in that the 2.5L is from 97 or 98 so the early headgasket problems are more from late 90s cars. A 2002 2.5L shouldn't have that problem as its a phase II engine. 8ender might have more insight into other problems of NA 2.5s, considering his 02 2.5TS has been somewhat of a troublemaker for him. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 10, 2010 |
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Apr 10, 2010 20:19
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You will see head gasket failures in the 2.5 engines up to around 2003, it's only a matter of time before they fail (I owned a 2002).
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Apr 10, 2010 21:08
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The early Phase II engines will have head gasket problems but its an external leak usually, not into the oil. That said my engine leaked externally and now I think it has rod knock so maybe some of that coolant snuck in. 
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Apr 11, 2010 02:25
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2002 owner. Blew my HG. It's all the way to 03.
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Apr 11, 2010 16:14
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Before I forget, the other thing is that you should make sure they did the head gaskets on both sides of the engine. I saw one Legacy L (which was skeezy in its own right) which had only one head gasket done.
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Apr 11, 2010 18:40
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We'll be checking out a 2006 Baja (non turbo) later this week, and we don't know what kind of shape it's in right now. It'll be a dealer trade-in, so they don't have it yet. Is there anything we'll need to be looking for specifically when we do check it out?
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Apr 12, 2010 20:30
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Can anyone fill me in a little on getting the driver's side front driveshaft out of my 2000 Outback? The pinch nut that my Haynes manual says to remove doesn't seem like it wants to go anywhere (without shearing off or something), so my buddy who is helping me out suggested taking off the nut underneath the control arm and popping it off that way, which we did, but we can't get the control arm and steering knuckle apart now, no matter what we try. Do we HAVE to get that pinch nut off to get it apart?
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Apr 12, 2010 21:13
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big hammers/crowbar/penetrating lubricant. You can pry the knuckle apart slightly as well but need to be careful not to break the upright. I changed my axles recently and it took a lot of work to get the ball joints out of the uprights. Also I need new balljoints now.
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Apr 12, 2010 21:34
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jamal posted:big hammers/crowbar/penetrating lubricant. You can pry the knuckle apart slightly as well but need to be careful not to break the upright. I changed my axles recently and it took a lot of work to get the ball joints out of the uprights. Also I need new balljoints now. But we should be able to do it by just taking the bottom nut off? Not the pinch nut? Because we already sheared a bolt in the caliper bracket and I am not looking forward to doing it again.
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Apr 12, 2010 21:38
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yes but getting the balljoint out of the control arm is frequently even more of a pain in the rear end. Especially if you're trying not to destroy the balljoint. You don't want to go overboard with a torch either: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1967810
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Apr 12, 2010 21:42
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Now that I know that I'm totally gonna try to explode a ball joint.
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Apr 12, 2010 21:44
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8ender posted:The early Phase II engines will have head gasket problems but its an external leak usually, not into the oil. That said my engine leaked externally and now I think it has rod knock so maybe some of that coolant snuck in. Just wanted to chime in to say that I bought this project. I look forward to begging this thread for help. 
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Apr 12, 2010 22:18
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pbpancho posted:Can anyone fill me in a little on getting the driver's side front driveshaft out of my 2000 Outback? The pinch nut that my Haynes manual says to remove doesn't seem like it wants to go anywhere (without shearing off or something), so my buddy who is helping me out suggested taking off the nut underneath the control arm and popping it off that way, which we did, but we can't get the control arm and steering knuckle apart now, no matter what we try. Do we HAVE to get that pinch nut off to get it apart? Oh god, this brings back some horrible memories. I tried to do both front axles in my '00 outback I had three years ago. One of them finally came out after I hit it with a big enough hammer, but I ended up putting the other side back together and taking it to a cheap shop to replace the other side. I own three sizes and severities of pickle forks thanks to that little adventure.
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Apr 13, 2010 01:32
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I'm going to order parts to do the timing service on my 95 impreza L 1.8 wagon. What parts do I need to order? If the belt is in good shape can I just replace the tensioner? What about the pulleys?
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Apr 15, 2010 20:48
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I got behind a Subaru SVX in the middle of nowhere, NC on my way home from work today. I had never even heard of one, and apparently there's a reason. Supposedly only 14,000 were imported to the US? That just made me want one more. Ill-suited brakes be damned!
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Apr 16, 2010 01:42
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PabloBOOM posted:I got behind a Subaru SVX in the middle of nowhere, NC on my way home from work today. I had never even heard of one, and apparently there's a reason. Supposedly only 14,000 were imported to the US? That just made me want one more. Ill-suited brakes be damned! Plus, I have nowhere to store one and I don't think I could run it as a daily driver nor sporty car.
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Apr 16, 2010 02:05
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I love the SVX; but, they will be a money pit.
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Apr 16, 2010 02:15
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Money pit AND a death trap! And yet... I need one. It's like the clunky great uncle of the WRX that smells bad and nobody wants to hug at reunions.
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Apr 16, 2010 02:32
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Thanks for the help Seat Safety. I'm stuck in Kuwait for another month or two, so I'll just read up on them online for now. Any other online resources worth reading before buying?
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Apr 16, 2010 19:40
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Just in case any of you are as nerdy as I am, here's a link to papercraft Subarus. http://www.saturn.dti.ne.jp/~eastern/pcraft/index.html They have the WRC-trim cars from 2004-2006, in some ridiculous detail, and it's all free. GO, CREATE
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Apr 16, 2010 19:56
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c355n4 posted:I love the SVX; but, they will be a money pit. I have two. The first one has cost me more in less than 1.5 years of ownership than my BMW 840 has cost me in almost 4. That said, the BMW was cared for and maintained, while the PO of my SVX neglected the poo poo out of it and ran it into the ground before I got it. I just picked up my second SVX a few months ago, haven't done anything with it yet though. If you get one, don't get a neglected / cheap one like I did. You can find a car with a blown transmission in otherwise excellent shape for <$1k if you look around. Biggest common trouble spots - TRANSMISSION, drippy cam / crank seals, wheel bearings, TRANSMISSION, droopy sun visors, TRANSMISSION. Oh, don't buy one with a cracked windshield either, especially if it has the bronze glass - black (edit: with tan interior) and claret, I think? New windshields are very hard to find and expensive as hell. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Apr 17, 2010 07:14
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Just Another XY posted:Just in case any of you are as nerdy as I am, here's a link to papercraft Subarus. This is amazing, and just as I was thinking about getting back into some papercraft to fill time.
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Apr 17, 2010 12:03
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Why do so many people run rotas? I'm considering looking into getting a summer wheelset and it seems like heavy rotas are really popular. is it just the price? I'm looking into 17x8.
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Apr 18, 2010 18:42
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I think it's just the price (that's my impression at least).
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Apr 18, 2010 19:47
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Price and quality. Don't listen to people who tell you Rotas crack and are dangerous. I've never had a single issue and neither have my friends.
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Apr 18, 2010 19:55
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Ok, I got my driveshaft out but I have 2 quick questions for you Subaru gurus. The driveshaft I removed had some sort of brass collar around the inner end, while the new one doesn't. It's not obvously removable from the old one. Do we need to pry it off and put it on the new shaft? Also, the pin that came with the new shaft to connect it to the piece that goes into the transmission (I think that's where it goes?) is longer than the old one, so it sticks out a bit, like in the photo below. Is that ok/normal or should be grind it off shorter? The collar on the old shaft:  The pin on the new shaft: 
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Apr 18, 2010 23:48
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you shouldn't have taken it apart that way. drive the pin out, and pull the axle off. The stub should stay in the differential. I think you'll be okay regardless. And no you don't need to grind it off. That axle looks pretty crappy. The rings keep debris away from the axle seals. My $70 napa axles has the rings and seemed pretty nice when I put them in.
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Apr 19, 2010 07:56
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Does anyone know when dealers typically get pricing for next year's models? There are no more 2010 WRXs left in my area and my dealer doesn't have a price on the 2011. This car has been hilariously hard to find, unlike my 2002.
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Apr 19, 2010 17:38
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blargle posted:Does anyone know when dealers typically get pricing for next year's models? There are no more 2010 WRXs left in my area and my dealer doesn't have a price on the 2011. This car has been hilariously hard to find, unlike my 2002. I think word was dealers were going to get pricing on the '11s on the 26th. They aren't due till September though from what I've heard.
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Apr 19, 2010 18:38
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blargle posted:Does anyone know when dealers typically get pricing for next year's models? There are no more 2010 WRXs left in my area and my dealer doesn't have a price on the 2011. This car has been hilariously hard to find, unlike my 2002. When I bought my 2010 in Texas a few months ago there were about 9 or 10 in the entire state.
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Apr 19, 2010 19:27
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ab0z posted:I'm going to order parts to do the timing service on my 95 impreza L 1.8 wagon. Well I just ordered a timing belt kit from autohausaz, along with valve cover gaskets, water pump and gaskets, thermostat, engine and transmission mounts, and tie rods. Hopefully once I do all that and figure out the slop in my shifter linkage, my car will be ready for the subaru cruise this weekend.
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Apr 19, 2010 22:24
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the shifter slop is the bushings in the linkage right at the transmission. When I pulled mine out one of them had completely disintegrated. I replaced them with nylon bushings I turned myself and my shifter feels awesome now. Also I had to drill out the rivet and put in a bolt.
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Apr 19, 2010 22:27
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jamal posted:the shifter slop is the bushings in the linkage right at the transmission. When I pulled mine out one of them had completely disintegrated. I replaced them with nylon bushings I turned myself and my shifter feels awesome now. Also I had to drill out the rivet and put in a bolt. thanks for the confirmation, I figured that little fucker was the issue. I'll have to see what I can do without a lathe.
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Apr 19, 2010 22:30
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There are some bushing kits you can buy (Turn In Concepts' Holy Shift kit is the one I've decided upon - it's a collection of various other bushing kits thrown together in a bag).
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Apr 19, 2010 22:55
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yeah, the tic bushings work. I just wanted to save some money and bought a $2 bar of nylon.
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Apr 19, 2010 23:45
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Ok so I can buy those bushings for my 95?
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Apr 19, 2010 23:46
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Not those particular ones, I think. I found some Kartboy bushings for a 98+ but I don't know if that's because they just didn't test on a pre-1998, or if there's a genuine change. You might want to ask on a GC/GF/GM forum and see what they're using.
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Apr 20, 2010 00:52
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http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_10_1496_1499_1509&products_id=357 Actually there are different bushings depending on year. the ones shown in that link wouldn't work on your 95 even if you could just get the bushings, because the linkage is larger and the bushings use a sleeve through the center. On your car it's just a rivet on one part and a bolt through the other, with no sleeve through the center. Since that linkage doesn't work with the external return spring, you can't just buy the whole thing and upgrade. Maybe I should make a few more sets of those nylon bushings...
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Apr 20, 2010 02:40
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What's the preferred oil on EJ255s? I have a half gallon or so of Rotella 5W40 and wondering if I should just stick with that or there's some BITOG consensus otherwise.
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Apr 20, 2010 03:41
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