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This is a bit of a DP from the Trackday thread, but these are my tires after one and then two Novice track days. Is there anything that can be learned from them?    After day two and a ~40 mile interstate ride home:   
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Apr 26, 2010 21:12
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| # ? May 23, 2024 13:04 |
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Pilot Powers and the sport minded 2CT's are among the really great tires you can buy for a supersport or superbike. Without question they are awesome everyday and spirited riding tires.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:14
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Armacham posted:i might try a different type after my rear wears out, which I just put on a few hundred miles ago. I ride more street than dirt though, so I will probably stay away from the tkcs. Was talking to another KLR guy over the weekend that uses those tires and he noticed the same phenomenon on his. I'd say its the tire size. But hey, for $25/6k, that's not bad at all. I'm gonna try these once the Metzeler street tires on mine wear out.
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Apr 26, 2010 21:27
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Shanky posted:Anyone have any experience with the Michelin Power Pures? Thinking of trying them on my R6. Sounds like they're more of a trackday tire than anything. There were a number of people using them at Autobahn last weekend and they seemed well received. I don't think I'd use them on the street though, they'd burn out pretty drat fast. Edit -- To hop on Tsaven's bandwagon... Here is my rear tire (standard Pilot Power) after one day at Autobahn. This is basically 3.5 track sessions and ~150miles of street wear since the beginning of the day the track was wet and we were running a slow pace. Tire pressures were set 30F 29R cold, and I measured them at 33F 33R hot, right off the track.   Our resident tire whisperer Z3n thought I might have a bit too little rebound damping but otherwise the wear looks normal. Other thoughts? needknees fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Apr 26, 2010 |
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Apr 26, 2010 21:27
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Both of your tires look fine. Basically, if they're not tearing in some bad way, if you're getting good increase in PSI from cold to hot, you're good. Needsknees, that's a good increase from cold to hot on the rear, given the low pace due to conditions, you probably had the pressures right for the front in normal conditions. Maybe in similar situations run 29/28 in the future, but that's seriously splitting hairs, especially when you're not going fast and not seeing any issues with tearing. Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Apr 26, 2010 |
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Apr 26, 2010 21:53
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I bought a Shadow Phantom two weeks ago, and I got a big nail (in the middle of the tread, far from the sidewall) in my rear tire today. I want to get it patched and would prefer to do so myself, but I cannot find out whether or not the Bridgestone Exedra G702 tire I have is tubed or tubeless, as they make both and the tire doesn't have any markings to suggest which one it might be. I have searched high and low on the Internet and cannot find the answer. The rims are spoked, but I know there are some spoked rims that run tubeless tires (BMW maybe?). Is there any easy way (short of removing the tire from the wheel) to tell if it is tubed? Also, I know this is a bit contentious among riders, but is it worth patching the tire or should I just replace it? I'm not an easily frightened man, but I know more than a couple riders that won't use plugged tires. I, personally, don't think it'd really be an issue as I'm not tracking this bike. But still, I'd like to get opinions from more experienced strangers on the Internet.
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May 1, 2010 02:49
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I'd definitely patch it if it's tubed, tubeless is a bit more iffy since the repair has to hold air as well as contact the road.
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May 1, 2010 03:24
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It's probably tubed. If the valve stem is threaded all the way down to the rim or has a locking nut on it, it's tubed, if it's a rubber or metal stem that's only threaded at the top, it's a tubeless. I don't see any issues with patching the tire regardless, just have it done right, with an internal mushroom type plug.
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May 1, 2010 03:57
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If you're at all interested in tires, tire wear, and how I make really lovely judgments about what your tires are doing, check this out: http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/6516891 It's long, but Dave Moss is one of the suspension gurus out here and he does a great job of breaking down different types of tearing and tire wear. It's a bit under 2 hours but VERY worth it.
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May 4, 2010 00:38
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Z3n posted:If you're at all interested in tires, tire wear, and how I make really lovely judgments about what your tires are doing, check this out: That is a great video, and I'm only 10 minutes or so into it. According to that and the tire wear I'm experiencing, my suspension setup is pretty loving close to where it should be  The Pilot Powers are wearing like loving iron so far. They seem to stick reasonably well, and if they exhibit this kind of life through the rest of the tire I might stay with them instead of going to Pilot Road 2s. Taken tonight, this is after two trackdays and ~300 street miles:      Pretty goddamn impressed... but I would like to give a more trackday oriented tire a try 
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May 5, 2010 01:21
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Z3n gave me a lot of helpful advice when I started texting him out of the blue last night - eventually, I gave up for the night... How the hell do you guys get that last bit of the tire on?  I've gotten it so far as to have about half what's in the picture left (about the same amount left as "-allenge-" part of the name on the sidewall, but I can't seem to manage that last section. I'm either chasing it around the rim, or the bead of the tire lifts away from the rim so far that I can't get the lever to 'flip' so it's pushing the bead onto the rim, rather than pulling it away? What part of the rim do you mount last - next to the valvestem or across from it? Which part of the iron do you wind up using? "hook" or "spoon", and do you have it "up" or "down" (Clarifying terms: They're "hook up" on the iron laying across the tire, "hook down" on the one sticking into the left of the tire, and "spoon up" on the two irons on the ground.) I'm using ungodly amounts of lube (dishsoap and water), and I'm doing my best to get the tire in the drop center, but there just isn't much drop to it... And you just KNOW that, in my inexperience, I've pinchflatted the tube in a dozen places already, so I get to spend another 2 hours redoing it when I replace the tube, right?  Many, many thanks to Z3n for his advice and erstwhile moral support last night. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 00:01 on May 7, 2010 |
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May 6, 2010 23:56
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I always use the spoon side. It'll climb the tire iron until you get it past vertical then it'll slide down and seat. You need to take really small bites for the last bit, basically as close to the bead as you can possibly get. Buy some clamps for extra hands to prevent it from chasing and to force it into the bead.
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May 7, 2010 00:01
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I just started changing tires myself this season. I had problems getting the last bit by myself. Then I got some large c-clamps to squeeze the tire on the opposite side to allow more flexibility to get the last bit on. After I put three clamps on to keep the tire in the middle, the last bit when on really easy. Plus you can never have enough soapy water on the tire and rim.
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May 7, 2010 03:20
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Z3n posted:I always use the spoon side. It'll climb the tire iron until you get it past vertical then it'll slide down and seat. Jendywo's around - I'll get her hands dirty, too. =) Thanks!
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May 7, 2010 19:01
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If you're getting to the point where the tire iron is bending, you're using too much force because you don't have enough slack in the tire to get it to slide over...you need to get both sides of the bead into the drop center.
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May 7, 2010 19:16
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Z3n posted:If you're getting to the point where the tire iron is bending, you're using too much force because you don't have enough slack in the tire to get it to slide over...you need to get both sides of the bead into the drop center.
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May 7, 2010 20:09
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More than you ever wanted to know about tire wear: http://www.ustream.tv/recorded/6516891
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May 7, 2010 21:19
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n8r posted:More than you ever wanted to know about tire wear: Great video, but it's even on the same page man  Z3n posted:If you're at all interested in tires, tire wear, and how I make really lovely judgments about what your tires are doing, check this out:
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May 7, 2010 21:28
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Jabs posted:which indicates that getting the last bit over at the valvestem is a good idea, since with the stem there, there isn't room to get both sides into the dropcenter on that side? Sure, as long as you don't pinch/destroy the valve stem in the process. Usually mine's anywhere but where I'm digging with a tire iron.
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May 7, 2010 21:34
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needknees posted:Great video, but it's even on the same page man I have z3n on ignore sorry.
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May 7, 2010 22:52
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May 7, 2010 23:00
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Hey, whatever he's gotta do to feel like he's contributing is fine by me. 
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May 7, 2010 23:17
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Final edit. I am a psychopath and finally decided to just stick with the road attack for the front for now. Found a new one on ebay for $84 shipped. Anything will be better than what I currently have.
mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 04:26 on May 8, 2010 |
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May 8, 2010 02:54
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I just bought an '01 Katana with a pair of fresh Bridgestone Battlax BT45Rs on it. The tires show a pressure of 19.5/28 (F/R). The recommended max shown on the tires is 41/42. Suzuki recommends 33/36 (for Dunlops it says). I really want to get max life out of these tires. They seem very hard even with the lower pressure. What pressure should I be aiming for? Is there a hard and fast rule when it comes to motorcycle tire pressures? Edit: I read the first post but would love opinions on this. Radio-Controlled fucked around with this message at 01:42 on May 10, 2010 |
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May 10, 2010 01:40
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I'd run 33/36. You can go a few PSI higher in search of better wear, if you'd like...I'd say +3 front and rear at most, because 42 is designed for a bike that's completely loaded down. There's also a point where you'll get worse wear if you overinflate them because you will decrease the size of the contact patch, causing it to flatspot faster. 20f is way too low. Don't bother poking at the tires trying to figure out the pressure.
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May 10, 2010 04:23
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I've got a Katana with Battlaxes on it, and 32/35 seems to work pretty well. Speaking of my Katana, how does this tread wear pattern look  
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May 10, 2010 08:21
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That burnout needed more gasoline. 
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May 10, 2010 09:31
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That's just what it looked like afterwards. I put down some bleach, I think, and it made too much smoke. I don't have any good pictures of me doing the sweet burnout because all the smoke made it too hard to see anything. Trust me though, it was awesome. It actually made it really hard to get the tire off because the middle sort of folded up when I was trying to break the bead. Should have burned the chicken strips off too, I guess.
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May 10, 2010 11:25
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How all companies should advertise tires: Bridgestone BT-016
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May 11, 2010 02:08
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NipplesTheCat posted:How all companies should advertise tires: No thanks, she's got a bit of a spare tire.
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May 11, 2010 04:47
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Medicinal Penguin posted:No thanks, she's got a bit of a spare tire. She threw something at me.
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May 11, 2010 17:13
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^^^I like the cut of your jib. No projectiles here--my wife just gives me the look.
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May 11, 2010 23:10
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Bucephalus posted:^^^I like the cut of your jib. My fiancee just tells me to stop screwing around with her new tires and mount them on her bike already. 
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May 11, 2010 23:30
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Armacham posted:I don't know much about knobbies, but I'm pretty sure this one is awesome. 
Zool fucked around with this message at 15:05 on May 12, 2010 |
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May 12, 2010 15:03
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So I was going to lube my chain after taking the long way home today, and I noticed this: Click here for the full 1707x1280 image. I don't think the tire is leaking, since the pressure is unchanged from the last time I checked it, but this worries me. Will this shorten the life of the tire? Should I replace it? And finally, what the hell could have done that to my tire, it looks like I ran over a machete or something 
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May 13, 2010 05:30
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Looks like you hit something sharp  I wouldn't worry about it too much on a rear tire if it's holding pressure, I would keep an eye on it when I lubed the chain. Any idea how deep it goes? If it's relatively superficial (ie, equal to or less than the depths of the sipes) it's no big deal, if it's deeper than the sipes, you may have problems. My DRZ has a similar cut in the tire, of course it's running tubes so it's much less of a concern, but if it's not leaking and is relatively shallow, ride on and don't worry about it, it'll wear out.
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May 13, 2010 05:36
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NipplesTheCat posted:How all companies should advertise tires: A hideous whaletail like that is only acceptable if you're advertising Porsche parts. 
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May 20, 2010 11:52
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Tyre guru, how does this rear look? Aside from the chunk of metal which has slit the tread block up near the reflector.
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May 24, 2010 05:05
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It looks like you put a dual-sport tyre on a VTR250 for some reason. Planning hitting some dirt roads?
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May 24, 2010 06:04
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| # ? May 23, 2024 13:04 |
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It was on there when I got it. ^ ^What about the profile of the tyre, is this squared off? What would be a good suggestion if I wanted to get new tyres for it? A sports touring tyre would be the go I guess given I would be doing a fair amount of around town riding in between proper rides. Do I have to check with Honda or the tyre manufacturer to find out whether a certain tyre is recommended for my bike?
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May 24, 2010 06:20
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