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So whats a good way, cheapo way to chamfer things? I've seen some solutions using planes, any other methods that don't require expensive equipment? Oh and turns out my dad has a circular saw so that should help in the cutting. What'd be better for leveling the butchers block after it's glued together though? I got: circular sander, belt sander, plane? Oh yeah I dont have a speed square either, any recommendations on what to get? Brands, or type of material thats best? Suitable size, seen mostly 7" or 12" models around. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Apr 13, 2010 |
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Apr 13, 2010 12:11
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If you want a chamfer you'll have to cut it, plane, router, or saw. A roundover can be done with sandpaper. If you cut the blocks precisely and are careful in your glue-ups you shouldn't need much leveling (and I would try very hard to not need any leveling). I would use either a belt sander and winding sticks or a router and table leveling jig (which you can build). You could use a block plane but they are so short it wouldn't be worth it.
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Apr 13, 2010 18:38
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Bad Munki posted:Well...here's the dust collector I put together for my planer (shown with the planer running for inflated bag goodness): All I use is a fan and open door, I am cheap and don't want to pay for dust collection when I can get a box of dust masks for a dollar. Here is an end table I made for my lounge, the whole lounge is very rustic looking so I wanted to keep that kind of look with the table. I think I might do one more coat of stain but overall I am happy with the table.  Click here for the full 1728x1152 image.
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Apr 15, 2010 22:42
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JEEVES420 posted:All I use is a fan and open door, I am cheap and don't want to pay for dust collection when I can get a box of dust masks for a dollar. I found that after a few years I became very sensitized to the dust so I have to wear a dust mask and I run a squirrel cage fan blowing out otherwise I spend the night hacking and coughing. What kind of wood is under that stain? Is that maple? I've been thinking of making a tile top table for a long time, even got the tile for it but just never got around to doing it.
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Apr 16, 2010 02:04
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I used to work for a door manufacturing company, I think I just got accustomed to black boogers and a slight cough  The table is made of Poplar and the legs of red oak. The bar I made in the same room is of the same two woods with the same stain so it works out nicely.
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Apr 17, 2010 02:58
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I picked up a couple of Stanley planes at the Goodwill today for $3 each. Good deal or not so much? A No.5 and a No. 5 1/4. Was there a link to a guide on tuning up planes earlier in the thread? The No. 5 1/4 needs a blade and a chip breaker. The 5 should just need a new blade and a new knob on the front. I cleaned the bases up best I could, I'm going to sand down the handles tomorrow and refinish them.
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Apr 17, 2010 04:00
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Just glued up the first practice box from my D4R Pro, I'm pretty happy with it. The jig is fantastic. Just like ChaoticSeven said, the VRS is freaking amazing, there were only minimal chips and it made the router very easy to use. I'm glad I had a clear baseplate for my router as seeing what I was doing helped get over the initial learning curve.
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Apr 17, 2010 23:51
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Thumposaurus posted:The No. 5 1/4 needs a blade and a chip breaker. The 5 should just need a new blade and a new knob on the front. For $6 total you came out pretty good. No crazy rust there. Take the knob from the 5 1/4 and put it on the 5 (if it fits, I'm not 100% the 5.25 and the 5 interchange totes, if so swap the rear tote as well), and buy a hock blade for the 5, set it up as your jack plane. I'm not a big fan of the 5 1/4, it was known as the "junior jack" and was designed as a jack plane for younger (and smaller) users in vocational training programs. Its dimensions don't make much sense outside of that context to me (it's a long-ish No.4, no wait, it's a narrow No.5). Now just find a No. 3 or No. 4 for your smoother and a No 7 or 8 for your jointer and you will be set! Don't sand down the handles before you try some simple Restor-a-Finsih or similar product on them, you might get your desired result with far less work.
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Apr 19, 2010 04:17
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I have gotten alot of inspiration from this thread. So i finally got around to making a pretty simple platform bed and bed-side table. Only now ive got to the stage where the wood needs finishing, and i have no idea what type of product to use to finish and protect the wood. Both bed and table have been made from mainly a hardwood plywood with a bit of pine, and i would like to keep as similar tone as possible(maybe a little darker) to the natural colour of the wood. Im also after more of a matte finish than say varnish, the only type of finish ive used on wood. If anyone with a bit more experience with this has got any suggestions, that would be awesome.
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Apr 20, 2010 13:45
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As a fellow beginner, I can say I had really good luck with Tung oil. It's cheap, forgiving, and adds a nice warm tone to the wood without changing the color too much. Before I waxed the desk I was working on, it had a nice luster without being super-shiny.
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Apr 21, 2010 04:13
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Anyone have an idea of the relative cost of MDO vs melamine vs cabinet grade plywood? I googled around and got conflicting answers.
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Apr 22, 2010 03:08
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wormil posted:Anyone have an idea of the relative cost of MDO vs melamine vs cabinet grade plywood? I googled around and got conflicting answers. If you are doing it yourself, the my opinion is that your time is worth something. The small, if any, price increase to use a cabinet grade domestic or baltic plywood is nigh on insignificant compared to the value of your time. I don't have the answer you wanted, other than I can say the last time I did a similar comparison, Melamine was slightly cheaper than cabinet grade ply. I will add another possible variable. IKEA sells LAGAN countertops in solid Beech (they used to call these PRONOMEN but then they lumped them in LAGAN with the particleboard crap). It is 1 1/8" thick, and a 25" x 96" section is currently $59. Now that's not cabinet grade ply prices (well, its about the price of prefinished walnut veneer cabinet grade ply, per sq ft), but it does total out to around $3.50 a board foot (this is post-raw-processing as well, good luck getting 100% yield on raw lumber). It is finger jointed and has been through a widebelt sander, so it doesnt require all the work that raw lumber would. I like the look, if it works for you then it can be a great option to use solid wood even if you thought the budget wouldn't allow it. I'm tempted to resaw my offcuts to make drawer sides. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Apr 22, 2010 |
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Apr 22, 2010 19:42
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GEMorris posted:If you are doing it yourself, the my opinion is that your time is worth something. The small, if any, price increase to use a cabinet grade domestic or baltic plywood is nigh on insignificant compared to the value of your time. My wife wants to paint the cabinets so MDO would actually be better suited than cabinet grade ply. I was only considering melamine because it is easy to keep clean and I wouldn't have to paint the insides of the cabinets.
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Apr 22, 2010 21:14
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How does the saying go? Measure twice, cut 7 times before burning it? I need a circular saw, my hand saw cuts looks fine at first but always seems to cut at the slightest of angles. Maybe I'll clamp some blocks of wood to the top of the board I'm cutting as sort of a guide for the wide handsaw blade.
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Apr 22, 2010 21:26
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Crane posted:How does the saying go? Measure twice, cut 7 times before burning it? Do you have a handplane? Look up a guide to shooting the ends of boards with a plane. Overcut by 1/16" or less, then shoot it square. Here is Schwarz's guide to sawing using a sawbench: http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Using+A+Sawbench.aspx And for shooting boards: http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Shooting+Board+A+Review+And+Primer.aspx
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Apr 22, 2010 22:41
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My biggest problem is that I have no tools, just a drill with a hundred awesome bits (I can make various sized holes! I'm not being sarcastic, I took my scrap wood and spent a good 15 minutes drilling holes for no reason.) And a handsaw & a couple clamps. I think I have some sandpaper laying around too. I'm making some simple deck stairs because the ones that came with the house rotted away (untreated wood sunk into dirt). An actual saw bench would be cool too, since I'm tall and I could just make it custom for my height. I'm super poor right now, but I hope to get a circular saw and proper sander and that Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Working with Wood. Every time I've had to make some simple thing out of wood I've loved it. I'm worried that if I get proper tools I'll go nuts and end up like those people who compulsivly write, except fiddling with my wood at all hours. And a planer.
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Apr 22, 2010 23:07
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Crane posted:And a planer. Hawk craigslist for an old craftsman/parks 12" planer, old cast iron "home" machines that can run circles around most anything made today. You should be able to find one for $300 or less if you aren't in the southeast.
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Apr 23, 2010 01:05
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Ouch, but at least if I had one of those it would last forever I bet. I don't really mind the handsaw that much, a planer would be neato for trimming stuff up. I think after I restain my deck & the new stairs (using that 2 in 1 stripper & mould remover) I'll build some raised gardening boxes for my slightly wet ground based on this DIY thingie. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/lawn-garden/4308264 I think I'll ask around the bar I used to work, the regulars would probably have an extra tool or two laying around they could sell me for cheap. Crane fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 02:01
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Crane posted:Ouch, but at least if I had one of those it would last forever I bet. I think you mean plane not planer. Planer generally refers to the powered tool (hence my parks suggestion), plane or handplane generally refers to the hand held tool. These are not absolutes however. If you are looking for some handplanes try the flea market. A No. 5 or No. 6 should run you $30, a No 3 or No 4 should run you $20. A block plane should be around $10 and is amazingly useful.
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Apr 23, 2010 02:52
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 well hello there
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Apr 23, 2010 02:53
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GEMorris posted:I think you mean plane not planer. Planer generally refers to the powered tool (hence my parks suggestion), plane or handplane generally refers to the hand held tool. These are not absolutes however. One of those handheld things that trim off flat shavings. They're pictured on this page right? Above with those neat handles on em? Ooh found some mini planes for cheap and a heafty one for about $50. Also some cool mini miter boxes for my saw for about $5 each. Crane fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 24, 2010 |
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Apr 23, 2010 03:46
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Well, after filling way too many of our shelves with spices I finally went and did something about it. I made a spice rack to fit in this little cove near the stove and the basement steps which until now was just wasted space. Here's the finished product:  Click here for the full 576x768 image. And here it is before being sanded and painted.  Click here for the full 576x768 image. It was quite a pain to make the dados on the sideboards with only a battery powered circular saw, and cutting without a miter saw is not fun. This is my first solo woodworking project and I didn't really realize just how much having all the power tools available to you helps. At least I had the 18v saw and drill. Oh well, I think it was a success for my first whack at a project. We were going to touch up the paint now that we have mounted it and can see a spot or two that the wood is showing through. Would it be a good idea to paint over the screws holding it to a wall, or will that make it impossible to remove (they are into studs, so they are pretty difficult to turn)?
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Apr 25, 2010 17:16
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CaptBubba posted:We were going to touch up the paint now that we have mounted it and can see a spot or two that the wood is showing through. Would it be a good idea to paint over the screws holding it to a wall, or will that make it impossible to remove (they are into studs, so they are pretty difficult to turn)? I personally wouldn't paint them, as any paint is just going to make it harder to get a screwdriver in there to turn them out if you ever want to move it. I didn't even notice them until you asked about painting them. On another note, anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase some quality drawer pulls? The home centers have a big selection, but the quality seems suspect. I'm finally nearing the end of my dresser/changing table project, so I want to get the drawer pull hardware picked out.
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Apr 25, 2010 22:10
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Well I've been reading cabinet building books like crazy, or at least what was available from my local library and I want to recommend Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets by Danny Proulx. This book was written for one purpose, to help you build your own kitchen cabinets... no fluff, no filler; the techniques are specific and cut lists are provided for all the standard cabinet sizes. He covers both framed and frameless cabinets and countertops. Some of the information is slightly dated but only in the styling not in the construction.
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Apr 26, 2010 15:44
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Deal or no deal? http://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/1711619937.html
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Apr 26, 2010 23:13
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Bad Munki posted:Deal or no deal? I paid $50 for essentially the same press, branded "Avanti" and made in Taiwan in the mid-80's. That was at an auction so we can say I should have paid 50% more, or $75. Couple of things: 1. Post 1980 Taiwan > 2010 China when it comes to quality. 2. What are your other options? Are drill presses few and far between in your area? How much is this press new? My gut says no deal, but it could be depending on variables. Don't forget the cost of a 2 drawer filing cabinet to put it on. I hate bench model drills and I own one.
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Apr 27, 2010 00:03
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I was just curious, cause it's something I'm always in the market for. I'm not specifically looking, but I thought hey, no harm in seeing if it's an awesome deal just waiting to be found. Sounds like not, no big loss. 
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Apr 27, 2010 00:07
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Bad Munki posted:I was just curious, cause it's something I'm always in the market for. I'm not specifically looking, but I thought hey, no harm in seeing if it's an awesome deal just waiting to be found. Sounds like not, no big loss. Being able to drill accurate, repeatable holes opens up a world of woodworking and joinery possibilities. While 'Dowel-it' style jigs have lessened some of the absolute necessity of owning a drill press, I still rank them very high on my list of tools to acquire. Another great thing about them is that they are all woodworking AND metalworking machines combined, unlike say wood bandsaws that spin far too fast for ferrous metal cutting. My list of stationery tools in order of importance of acquisition: 1. Radial Arm Saw (or track saw if you don't want to buy old arn) 2. Drill Press 3. Planer* 4. Bandsaw 5. Jointer* This list is based on what doors one tool can open up to you. I know I'm going to catch some heat on the RAS since I bash table saws so much for safety concerns, but I really think it is a tool that has gotten an undeserved rap. Unfortunately manufacturers like sears etc churned out sub-standard machines and hyped them as being able to do everything. Lots of folks got hurt trying. Main thing is, make sure it is set up RIGHT, don't rip short stock, and use a blade with a negative hook angle for crosscutting. * I recommend a combo jointer/planer** unless you have gobs of space. The jointer is 5th because it is the easiest roughing task to do with hand tools, imho. ** Also, I'm redacting anything bad I said about my INCA combo jointer/planer. I "fixed" it. Meaning I stripped their cheezy drive system off, made a sprocket of the correct tooth pattern, and stuck a 1/50th hp bodine gearmotor on it to drive the feed rollers. Works like a dream now, and no more fear of stripped out gears. Note: the current Rikon model that is a near copy of the INCA has a more robust drive system.
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Apr 27, 2010 01:32
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Bad Munki posted:Well...here's the dust collector I put together for my planer (shown with the planer running for inflated bag goodness): JET and Delta air filtration systems are pretty cheap and most can work as a benchtop model. I picked a Delta up for like $300 on Amazon. If you're going to have to keep the door closed, they should help. SkunkDuster posted:Bad Munki posted:Aww, bummer, I thought maybe you had some awesome laser cutting robot or something. v Actually, CNC machining of acrylic is really popular. There's all kinds of bits for it, including polishing.
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Apr 27, 2010 02:21
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El_Matarife posted:JET and Delta air filtration systems are pretty cheap and most can work as a benchtop model. I picked a Delta up for like $300 on Amazon. If you're going to have to keep the door closed, they should help. El_Matarife posted:Actually, CNC machining of acrylic is really popular. There's all kinds of bits for it, including polishing.  I guess that's all pretty off-topic, though. As for wood-working, the tool I'm more actively in search of is a band saw. If I see an awesome deal on a press, I'll buy it, but it's not super high on my list...but then, I know a guy with one I can borrow. As for the bandsaw, I'm probably going to end up getting myself one for my birthday. Either that or some new motorcycle leathers... v v
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Apr 27, 2010 02:42
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, that ain't gonna happen. Keeping the door closed, I mean. I'm extremely limited on space, so I have to share the garage with the motorcycles. If it's too nasty out to keep the garage door open while I work, it's also too nasty to move the bikes outside, so that pretty much resolves itself. I actually looked around for rented industrial space recently. There's some places you can get for maybe $500 a month for 800-1000 square feet here, with the caveat it is pretty spartan and doesn't have air conditioning. It seems like it could be reasonable if you've got any kind of income from your projects at all. Bad Munki posted:This is true, but laser cutters get the awesome factor. And on that note, what is it with CNC shops charging an arm and a leg for one-offs? I'm going to mount a laser to my CNC setup eventually. There's several Chinese made lasers that are fairly cheap and designed to mount on gantry machines. I think most shops don't see one offs as worth their time for whatever reason. Too much sales and back end work involved perhaps. I'd just recommend going out and finding hobbyists with CNCZone.
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Apr 27, 2010 03:00
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So what's the best method for ripping long pieces by hand? My HOA is loving evil and enacted a No Loud Power Tools policy. This means no table saw, no circular saw, a planer is right out, and so is a drill if it can be heard from the street. e: I live in a townhouse subdivision, so I can understand why... kind of. The only thing I can think of would be to make incremental cuts perpendicular to my desired cut and saw out chunks. (What would be the best kind of saw for this?) Boogabu fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 03:57
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Boogabu posted:My HOA is loving evil and enacted a No Loud Power Tools policy. This means no table saw, no circular saw, a planer is right out, and so is a drill if it can be heard from the street. What. The. gently caress.
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Apr 27, 2010 04:05
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Between the hours of 9PM to 9AM or no power tools at all? Exactly how do they expect people to do maintenance on these townhouses? I guess you could look in to soundproofing your garage. Alternately, you should show up to so many HOA meetings they repeal the policy just to get you off their back. I'd be shocked if you could get a really smooth cut over a long piece with a hand saw without something like http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080241/29167/100-Bora-Wide-Track-Clamp-Edge.aspx and a lot of sanding or hand planing to clean up the cut, and it would probably take you a few hours. El_Matarife fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Apr 27, 2010 |
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Apr 27, 2010 05:02
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El_Matarife posted:I think most shops don't see one offs as worth their time for whatever reason. Too much sales and back end work involved perhaps. speaking from the point of view of someone who owns a letterpress printing and laser engraving business...... If you don't have a streamlined order system to take a lot of the hand holding out of the equation (i.e. e-machine shop) then small orders are just a waste of time. Just the time it takes to find the substrate, load it, adjust the machine, run a test pass to test settings, then load your file (which by the way, is never right or set up properly. You want to see the worst files ever? Look at vector art files, idiots covering up things with white boxes all over the place) then run the part, letting you know it is ready, invoicing you, hearing you whine about the cost, hearing you complain about tolerances that are within the specs we gave you at the beginning of the process...... No, one offs are not worth it unless one offs are your entire business. I do one offs for friends and past customers who know what to expect, know what materials I have or provide their own, and know how to set up a file the way it needs to be in order for my machine to take it without me having to spend 15 minutes changing things.
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Apr 27, 2010 05:06
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Boogabu posted:So what's the best method for ripping long pieces by hand? http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/The+Riphorse+Training+Wheels+For+Sawyers.aspx http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Video+Other+Ways+To+Rip.aspx http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Sawing+FrancoPrussian+Style.aspx Unrelated: Holy poo poo I want this! http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/First+Look+Veritas+Skew+Block+Plane.aspx
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Apr 27, 2010 05:22
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El_Matarife posted:Between the hours of 9PM to 9AM or no power tools at all? Exactly how do they expect people to do maintenance on these townhouses? I think there's something about necessary maintenance, but they don't want people running shops out of their garage - kinda like I want to. :P Thanks for all the links, I'll check them out!
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Apr 27, 2010 05:50
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Boogabu posted:I think there's something about necessary maintenance, but they don't want people running shops out of their garage - kinda like I want to. :P You could use a bandsaw to rip it then clean up the edge with a plane. The only other quiet power tool I can think of is a drill press, but I'm fresh out of ideas on how to rip a board with one of those.
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Apr 27, 2010 11:55
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Boogabu posted:My HOA is loving evil and enacted a No Loud Power Tools policy. Sounds like a great excuse for DIY soundproofing project.
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Apr 27, 2010 14:20
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GEMorris posted:Unrelated: Holy poo poo I want this! http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/First+Look+Veritas+Skew+Block+Plane.aspx Wow thanks for this, I don't think I knew that LV made a 140 clone (if you can even call it that). Even though my favorite standard low-angle block plane is LN, I really love it when LV makes a truly better product. Actually, I have yet to try the ultra-fancy and mega-ultra-fancy LV block planes... not that I'd actually pay that much for a block plane ... right??
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Apr 27, 2010 15:36
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